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http://www.archive.org/details/steamintobellsarOOmccl 



"Steamin' to Bells" 
around the Middle Sea 



k> 



i, 








"gad"* ' 



The Allerites' own book 



By 
ALFRED J. P. McCLURE, A. M. 



PUBLISHED BY THE COMPILER 

MCM 

I . 



TWO copies hi£ceiv tDi 
Office of th« 

APR I 8 1900 

K8S»»t«r of Copyrljfct,, 



56634 



Copyright 1900, by Alfred J. P. McClure 



SECOND COPY, 



flBa&e In? (Bconje lb JCucbanan ar>6 
Company at tbe Sign of tbe llvg 
leaf In library? Street iPbllaDelpbla 










To my daughter 




ABBY 




t staid at home. 




all the rest '.vent sailing. 






All you my friends who now expect to see 

A piece of writing here performed by me, 

Recall my lease, upon a distant shore 

To garner, cull and print and do no more. 

Cast pleasing smile on this my compilation, 

Pardon its faults and give the writers commendation. 



CONTENTS AND ILLUSTRATIONS 



PAGE 

Preface, .......... 9 

Baggage, 9. Bythe Wharf, 10. "Alpha and Omega," 11. 

Parting W< irds, . . . . . . . . . 13 

"Now we're off, good bye, good bye," 13. 

I'm Start, .......... 17 

" The ship goes sailing down the bay." 17. " Staunch 

and strong a goodly vessel " 18. 

The Firsi Breakfast, ........ 18 

Breakfast Menu February 6th, 19. Dining Room Seat 

Card, 19. 

Second I >\\ \\ Sea, i Rhyme | ...... 20 

•• I am leaning o'er the rail," 20. 

Table Experiences, Seasickness \ni > the Like, ... 21 
Lunch Menu, February 7th. 21. 

•• In the Glooming," ........ 22 

•' And the footsteps of the steward. Softly come and softly 
co ' ' 22 



Bibliography 01 i'he Mediterranean Region in General, . 2 



j 



Cruise, Cruisers and Cruisin 1 Things, .... 24 

"And Clark smiled." 24. "The skipper he stood 

beside the helm," 25. Our Hand, 26. " How 

sweet it were with half shut eyes," 27. A Group 

of Menu Cards, 28. The Music of the Bugle 
Calls, 29. Lost and found. 30. " In the after- 

noon the) 1 ome unto a land," 31, 

The ( '• vllant F01 rth Officer, . . . • 32 

The fourth ( )ffi( er. 32. 

Ami SEMEN IS, .... .... 33 

Diversion, ^,]. 

The Azores and Portugal, Bibliography, . . 57 

Off the A/ores, 37. Our Lawyers, 39. 

Letter i kom rHi Hi inok vui i S. M. Cut< heon . 40 

rHE Coast of Pi 1 \i . . . . . . . . 40 

Poinl St. \ in< ent, 41. I'he Coast of P01 tugal, 42. 

\ 1 r 1 Writ on St. Valentine 1 I > w . . . 1 1 

fHE Rolling Ball at Sea, . . . . . 1 ; 



Contents and Illustrations 



Spain, Gibraltar, Alhambra, Granada, The Moors, Bibli- 

ographv, ......... 47 

Verses Carved on a Stone Sentry Box at Gibraltar, 47. 
Gibraltar Permit from Chief of Police, 47. 

Gibraltar, Alhambra, and the Moors. A Lecture, . . 48 

" Like a huge British Lion reclining in watchful attitude," 
48. " Honeycombed with galleries and bristling 

with canon," 49. "GreatGuns," 50. Neutral 
Strip — Bull Ring — Gateway — Rock Window— Parade 
Ground, 51. "The Pillar of Hercules looms 

above," 53. In the Sierras, 55. Our Spanish 

Carriages, 56. On to Granada, 58. The Al- 

hambra, 59. Alhambra Gate — Lunch Table — 

Interior, 61. "Like a cloud of rare old yellow 

lace," 62. Alhambra Columns, 64. Concert 
Program, February 14th, 66. Order for the Day, 

February 16th, Alhambra Trip, 66. The Court of 

the Lions, 67. Malaga from the Citadel, 68. 

An Experience at Malaga, ...... 68 

Hotel Washington Irving Lunch Card, 69. Time-table 
Granada to Malaga, 70. 

Algiers, Bibliography, ....... 73 

French Front, 73. An Arab Trader, 74. A Street 

in Algiers, 74. The Square — A Street — Harbor 

View, 75. A Street Costume — On Donkey-back, 

76. Around the Garden of Plants, 77. " Ghosts 
and Allerites," 78. 



78 
79 
79 
79 



Sea Forms Neither Strange nor Curious, 

Pennsylvania Day, .... 

Introductions by General Craft, 

Address of Col. Seltzer, 

Menu, February 18th, 79. A Street in Algiers, 80 

The McKees and Gibsons, 81. Typical " Kee-sto- 
ann " Natives, 83. 

Address by Major Reinhold, ...... 85 

More Pennsylvanians. "There are others," 86. 

Malta Bibliography, . . . . . . . . 89 

Malta : A Lecture Delivered on Shipboard, . . .89 

Order for the Day, February 2 2d, 89. Four Malta 

Views, 90. On the Way to Citta Vecchia, 92. 
Malta Harbor, 95. 

Malta More Familiarly, ....... 97 

Railroad Ticket to Citta Vecchia, 97. Cathedral at 

Citta Vecchia, 98. 

Citta Vecchia, St. Paul's Bay, etc, ..... 100 



Contents and Illustrations 3 

PAGE 

"In a Moment of Exhilaration," ..... 101 

Washington and Ideals. An Oration, .... 102 

North, South, East and West, 104. 

Italy, Naples, Vesuvius, Pompeii, Bibliography, . . . 109 

Naples, . . . . . . . . . .111 

Five Views of Naples, no. Order for the Day, Febru- 

ary 20th, hi. "From door to door," 112. 

"Up" to Hades, 113. " Funicolare, " 114. 

The Crater, 115. Naples and ' ' The Old Smoker, ' ' 

116. Soldiers — A Priest, 117. "Funicolare" 

Car Ticket, 1 17. 

Up Vesuvius on Donkey Back, . . . . . . nS 

A Policeman — Funicolare Asino Ticket, 118. The 

Buried City, 1 19. 

Pompeii, . . . . . . . . . .119 

Forum — Stepping Stones — In the Streets of Pompeii, 120. 

Egypt, Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile, Biblio- 
graphy, . . . . . . • .123 

The Land of the Nile and the Pharaohs. A Lecture, . 126 
Pompey's Pillar — Program for Egypt, 126. Past and 

Present, 127. " Past oldest works of human hands, 
Itself more ancient still — The Nile" (six views), 128. 
Five Egyptian Ovals, 129. The Army of Occupa- 

tion at the Step Pyramid, 130. Entrance to the 

so-called Tomb of Rameses II., 131. "The 

Pharaohs of the Bondage and the Exodus" (three 
cuts), 132. " She hath the whole horizon for her 

hoop," 133. Father Nile, 134. " Still through 
Egypt's desert places flows the Lordly Nile " (four 
views', 135. Market-place by Nile Bridge, 136. 

"In Clover," 137. The Shadoof — Sakeiyah — The 
Dancing Girls, 139. A Shadoof, 140. A Lemon- 
ade Vendor — Woman with Yashmak — Package (?) 
Carrier — Water Carriers (two cuts), 141. A Street 
in Cairo, 142. Jugs and Jugglery, 143. The 

Citadel and Alabaster Mosque, 144. En ranee 
to the Citadel, 145. Another View of Citadel and 

Mosque, 146. Nile Boats, 147. The ISloomington 
Feat at the Alabaster Mosque — A Dahabeah, 148. 
Cheops the Great, 149. "Still the Pyramids 

imperious pierce the cloudless skies" (four views), 
150. The Beautiful Accacia Drive — Chefron, 151. 
" Across the < rreen Meadows to ( Iheopsand < 'hefron " 
\ Mixed Company, 152. Climbing the Man made 
Mountain, 153. On tin- Side of the Pyramid — 
"High on a Throne of Royal State," 154. The 
"Apex " of an Allerite's Ambition 1 four views), 155. 

"And the great Sphinx stares with mysterious, 



4 Contents and Illustrations 

l'AGE 

The Land of the Nile and the Pharaohs — Continued 

solemn, stony eyes," 156. The great Mohamme- 

dan University — Corner of Gizeh Museum — On the 
way to Thebes — Mosque of Sultan Hasan, 157. 
Interior of the Mosque of Sultan Hasan — A Funeral in 
Cairo — Court of Alabaster Mosque — A Street Scene, 
158. Rameses at Memphis — "Old in the days 

of Abraham," 159. The Step Pyramid Beggar — 

Where We Had Lunch — At the Feet of the Sphinx, 
160. Mohammedan School, 161. The Suez 

Canal, 162. 

An Incident on the way to Thebes, . . . . .162 

" She " — Backsheesh, 162. Fellaheen — On the Nile, 163. 

The Nubians at Luxor, . . . . ... .164 

An Oriental Skipper, 164. " Her Lord and Master," 

165. 

Syria, Jerusalem and thereabouts, Bibliography, . . 169 

The Jaffa Episode, . . . . . . . .171 

The Jaffa Harbor, 171. Disembarking at Jaffa, 172. 

Jerusalem and the Land of Promise. A Lecture, . . 173 

In the Streets of Jaffa, 173. A Corner in Jaffa, 174. 

The House of Simon the Tanner, 175. The Well 

of the Magi, 176. The Hill of Zion and the Road 

from the Station, 1 77. Damascus Gate (two views), 
178. Mount Moriah, 179. The Church of the 

Holy Sepulchre, 181. The Tombs of the Kings 

(two views), 183. The Mosque of Omar, 184. 

Interior of the Mosque of Omar, 185. Jerusalem 

from the Mount of Olives, 187. Lepers, 189. 

Lepers, 190. In the Garden of Gethsemane (two 

cats), 191. The Garden of Gethsemane and the 

Mount of Olives, 193. " Hie de Virgine Marie 

Jesus Christus Natus Est," 194. 

My Irreverent Donkey at Olivet, . . . . .195 

'I'm: Quarries of Solomon, ....... 196 

Entrance to the Quarries of Solomon, 196. The 

Tomb of Absalom, 197. 

Description ok the Masonic Meeting in the Quarries of 

Solomon, . . . . . . . . .197 

Church of the Lord's Prayer (two cuts), 188. Lord's 

Prayer Tablet, Slavonic, 199. Lord's Prayer 

Tablet, Turkish, 200. Ticket of admission to the 

Pool of Bethesda, 201. 

Jordan and the Dead Sea, ....... 202 

The Valley of the Jordan, 202. At the Dead Sea (three 

views), 204. Two Hoosiers on Jordan's Stormy 

Banks, 205. 



Contents and Illustrations 



PAGE 



Throikh Samaria and Galilee on Horseback, . . . 206 
His Arab Steed. 207. Tomb with the Stone Rolled 

Away, 209. Lunch and a Snap Shot between 

Showers, 210. Shiloh. 211. Jacob's Well, 

212. Mount Tabor. 213. •■Tickling the 

earth with the old-fashioned one pronged plough," 
214. A Pause for bunch and Photograph. 215. 
Mary's Well at Nazareth. 216. Down to the Sea 

• of Galilee. 217. 'The Sea of Galilee, 21S. 

Asia Minor, Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus, Biblio- ■ 

I .K WHY . . . . . . . . . .223 

Beirut, 223. Dr. Bliss, 225. 

Damascus, . . . . . . . . . .225 

On the Way to Damascus. 226. The River Barada — 

General View of Damascus — Straight Street Bazaars, 
227. Court of a House in Damascus, 228. 

Place Where St. Paul Was bet Down the Wall, 229. 

Smyrna, .......... 229 

"Little Breeches" — "Look pleasant, please," 230. 
Site of Ephesus, 231. At Ephesus, 232. 

Ephesi - and 1111 Chi ri 11 of St. John. A becture, . . 232 

Ruins of the Church of St. John, 233. Mosque at 

Ephesus, 234. \ Modern Diana, 235. Ephe- 

sus "Is one with Nineveh and Tyre," 237. 
Mosque at Ephesus. 23S. An< ient Aqueduct — 

The Home of the Stork, 239. 

I in Mock 'Trim, of W. R. Hamilton, .... 240 

"Said and Aforesaid Aliased Hamilton," 241. Cor- 

nered, 243. 

Constantinople, Bibliography, ...... 245 

On the Bosphorus in Front of the Old Palace, 247. 
Interior of the Mosque of St. Sophia, 24X. A 

Glimpse of the Black Sea, 249. Mosque of 
Sultan Ahmed. 250. 

Address oi Pi r Van Millingen, . . . .251 

(ialata from Stamboul and the Famous bridge of Boats, 
252. The Sublime Porte — Saint Sophia — Tree 
of the Janissaries, 253. 

Tin Dogs 01 Constani im iple, . . .254 

Streel Do Gal< ire, 254. 



ISTAN'J INOPLE ART TR1 

■ in Front ol Mosq 



; 55 



Till BOSPHI IRI S AND ROI ' . 25N 

Members ol the 1 1 irem, • 59. 
Athens, Greei i Bim iogr \?h\ . 



6 Contents and Illustrations 

PAGE 

An Historic Sketch of Athens. An Address, . . 264 

The Acropolis. Order for the Day March 22, 265. 

Temple of Athena, 266. Theatre of Herod, 268. 

Theatre of Dionysos, 269. The Captain on Mars 

Hill, 270. Mars Hill, 271. The King's Pal- 

ace, 272. 

Athens More Familiarly, . 273 

Greek Soldier, 273. A Funeral in Athens, 274. 

Rome. Bibliography, . . . . . . .277 

The Pantheon. . . . . . . . . .278 

"The Parliament Temple of all the Gods," 278. Tiber 

— Forum — St. Peter's Dome — Castle of St. Angelus — 

Colosseum, 279. 

1 

The Colosseum, ........ 280 

Long View of the Colosseum, 280. Interior of the 

Colosseum, 282. 

The Appian Way, ........ 283 

The Appian Aqueduct, 284. 

The Forum, ......... 284 

View of Forum, 285. Hadrian's Bridge and Tomb, 

286. St. Peter's, 287. Interior of St. Peter's, 

288. ' 

The Vatican, ......... 289 

Interior of " St. Paul's outside the Walls, " 290. 

Rome More Familiarly, ....... 290 

Cloisters of "St. Paul's outside the Walls," 291. 
More "Cloister Galleries," 292. "Under Cano- 

pies of Bone upon Bone Couches," 293. More of 

the Cappuccini Cemetery. Concert Programme, 

294. 

Logs — Nautical, Edible, Social, . . . . . 295 

Address of Geo. Waldo Smith, Esq., upon the Presenta- 
tion of Watch and Purses to Captain and Officers, 297 
"To Carry-her Pigeons into View," 297. "Fog on 

Foto, Face and Film," 298. 

Resolutions, ......... 300 

Obituaries, ........ 301-302 

The Voices from the Engine Room, .... 302 

"Vilhelm," 302. The Captain's Dinner Menu, 304. 
Concert Programme, Last Evening on Vessel, 304. 

Craft's Retrospective Rhymes, ...... 305 

"O'er seas, with these on knees," 306. 



Contents and Illustrations 



Nearint, Home and Last Experiences, . . . . 

Campo Santo, Genoa, 307. The Three Graces, 308. 

"Two souls with but a single thought," 309. 
" And so the dreamy days went by." 310 

Conductors and Officers, ...... 

Transcript of the Aller's Nautical Log, 
Last Log Bulletin Posted, 313. 

The Edible Log, Transcript of the Purser's Record, 

Map of the Route, 316. Sailing Chart, facing 316. 

The Value of Travel, ....... 

The Infatuation of It, ....... 

Passenger List, ......... 

Pictures of Passengers, 319-329. 

Good bye, ........ . . 

Index. .......... 



PAGE 

3°7 



3" 
3" 

3M 

3 : 7 
317 

3*9 



33 1 





PREFACE 

HIS is the record in Kipling's phrase of 
" Steamin' to Bells " around and in literal 
speech " the Middle Sea." A middle sea, 
indeed, of the realm of history, art, architec- 
ture, philosophy, poetry, sculpture, religion : 
the cradle of all these in their beginnings. 
Back to this region, yet the world in every department of 
learning- still turns for first principles and tor inspiration. 

It is the record of a pleasure trip, a compilation of lectures 
delivered on ship and land, of incidents and impressions, but 
principally telling the story of places and persons comprehen- 
sively and profusely by pictures taken on the spot. 

It is an effort to fasten unique experiences and fleeting 
impressions of pleasant sights and friendly associations so that 
they may be recalled with pleasure and the cruise lived over 
again. It is neither solemn nor learned, indeed, the effort 
has been made to avoid that " profundity and impressive 
incomprehensibility which belongs properly to scientific ex- 
peditions " or to certain historical travel books which attempt 
to accurately set down and philosophically 
interpret facts for their readers. We all 
realized, I hope, how slight and superficial 
and probably inaccurate were our impres- 
sions ; how deceptive, how likely to be 
untrue from so brief a sojourn, so swift 
a voyage. 

It is the record of an unusually har- 
monious party, enjoying a picnic around 
the shores of a wonderful sea. And in 

passing let me say that one may travel many times across the 
ocean without meeting such a number of cultured, refined and 
gentle people as were here gathered together on one ship, 
One who was both a traveler and a cultured gentleman said : 
"I have crossed the ocean fifty-five times and never have I 
met a more agreeable company ol people, more genuine and 
unaffected, more courteous and kindly." This spirit of the part) 




We lived in these 

While on the seas 



to 



Preface 



as a whole was, no doubt, ministered to by many causes : 
the courteous treatment and unwearied attention of the 
officers, stewards and sailors ; the unquestioned effort on 
the part of the management to meet all reasonable needs and 
requirements ; the lectures diverting- the minds or rather lead- 
mo- the minds and attention of the people to profitable and 
interesting matters ; these, with the incomparable weather 
encountered on all seas, made our excursion notable and in 
retrospect of almost unalloyed pleasure. 

If there were those 

who found annoyances I 
am sure the recollection 



has been swallowed up by 
the multitudinous mem- 
ories of pleasures enjoyed 
in sights and sounds 
unique and strange. 
There is always an un- 
paralleled opportunity on 
a great excursion of this 
kind for friction and an- 
noyance, but a placid 
mind meeting these as 
other difficulties of life 
can extract the o-ood and 
leave the ill, which often 
means self and selfishness 
behind. 

One of the great 
heathen philosophers who 
lived around this very sea said : " It is a great folly not to 
part with your own faults if possible, but to try instead to 
escape from other people's faults which is impossible." And 
then to be sure there are some who have never learned to 
admire rightly, for as Thackeray says: "The great pleas- 
ure of life is that," and says Wordsworth: "We live by 
admiration, hope and love." Only of a few of our party could 
it be said as Thomas Carlyle put it: 

"A foolish baby vainly strives and fights and frets, 
Demanding all, deserving nothing, one small grave is all he gets." 




" The eddies and dimples of the tide 
Play around the bovis of ships 
That steadily at anchor ride." — Longfelloiu 



Preface 



11 



And now as to the compilation. I have avoided de- 
terminedly mere guide book directions and notes, and for this 
reason the proffered guide booklet of one of our lecturers in lieu 
of the promised manuscript was discarded. 1 have, however, 
made a special point ot the books ot reference to the .Mediter- 
ranean region, and for this I am sure intelligent members of 
our part)' will heartily thank me. It has been no small labor to 
look up and verity and select these. In making the selection 
of books I have been greatly assisted by the Encyclopaedic 
manuscript list prepared by \\ . Maitland Abell, M. A., L. L. M., 
ot our party, entitled " Itinerary tor Intellectual Excursions into 
the Great Realm of Literature, Descriptive of the Art, Archae- 
ology, I littery, kite and Scenery of the Mediterranean Region." 

Ot course my list is not complete and readers will 
find the names ot certain books lacking. In the arrange- 
ment ot the lists, books ot general description and travel 
come first, then Historical, Archaeological, Art, Fiction, 
Periodicals, etc. I have tried to choose for young as well 
as old ami in the order of our cruise. Finally, as I made the 
selection ot books I was increasingly impressed with the large 
number of valuable and instructive; works on this region and 
driven more and more to silence, more and more; to abundant 
reterences and apt quotations from the Allerites when I could 
get them. Working along these lines with the abundance of 







1 2 Preface 

material poured in upon me in the way of pictures and other 
matter (for which I give unbounded thanks), I could think at 
last of no other word than a congestion, which the Century 
Dictionary defines as " gathering or heaping together or forming 
a mass", and this word must be my only apology to the over 
critical for both manner and matter. I have a good hope, 
however, that even if the matter is not all it might be, the 
numerous pictures with which it is accompanied will be well 
worth looking at, and that the book will recall the three sue 
cessive pleasures of travel, viz.: preparation, enjoyment and 
retrospection. One word in regard to the pictures ; in many 
cases I have chosen preferably the amateur photographs sent 
me illustrative of the matter in hand, giving the atmosphere 
and environment of the tour ; this, however, required the use 
of pictures indistinct or lacking in sharpness of outline, mak- 
ing it impossible to produce the cuts one would desire. I have, 
however, felt that the flavor of the cruise in these pictures war- 
ranted their production even though imperfect. With these 
reflections I pass the book over to you dear Allerites hoping 
that the compilation may hold for you the memory of an incom- 
parable voyage, of associations unmatchable on board the dear 
old ship, when 

" By day like play-house scenes the shore slid past our sleepy eyes. 
By night those soft lasceevious stars leared from those velvet skies 

In port to daunder down the streets — ■ 

An ijjit grinnin' in a dream — for shells an' parrakeets. 

An' walk in '-sticks o' carved bamboo an' blowfish stuffed an' dried- 

Fillin' (our bunks) wi' rubbishry the Chief put over-side." 



Preface 



13 




&f<rw ive*re off—Gcod bye, Good bye 



Parting Words 

'Adieu, adieu ! my native shore 
Fades o'er the native blue. 

Lord Byron worked this phrase before. 
But still 'twill have to do. 

Dear land ! with thee no foreign spot 
Shall vie where'er I roam. 

i I'll bet my hat that I forgot 
To mail those papers home.) 

The breeze blows fair a< ross our prow, 

The rrcstrd wavelets plunk. 
I \ i j < 1 did I put, I wonder now. 
I hose hairpins in my trunk ?) 



How i ful is the sunset glow . 

How pensive even's light. 
I I bother ! guess I'll go below, 
M\ native land good nighi !)" 

Via M ISS A. 



THE START 




" The ship goes sailing c'oiun the bay " 



THE START 



.. 



o 



N the 5th of February, we left Hoboken (on the west 
bank of the Hudson River, opposite New York City) 
in the North German Lloyd steamer Aller, bound for 
Gibraltar, our first stop. We started at midday ; a very nice 
lunch was at once served us, and in spite of some fog, which at 
one time brought us almost to a standstill, we soon passed 
Sandy Hook, and could truthfully sing : 

" We arc out on an ocean sailing." 

At all events some could for a while, but the . \ller having 
no freight, was what sailors call cranky, that is to say, she did 
not sink deep enough and so was inclined to " roll and after 
a little while of this swaying motion, which though gentle, is 
harder on a sensitive stomach than the "pitching" (the alter 
nate up and down of bow and stern), a good man) did not led 
like singing any more, and some ol them looked pale and went 
into their staterooms and did not appear again fof several days. 
( )ne of this (lass gave me a des< ription "I his first three hours 



jg The Start 

at sea. He was poetically, or rather rhythmically inclined, and 

he put it thus : 

" The first hour called up memories of friends from whom I parted. 
The second hour called up visions of the place where bodies are carted. 
The third hour called up all I had eaten since I started." 

Have you ever been to sea ? I am aware that this is a 
dangerous question to ask, when punsters are around. I well 
remember how surprised I was years ago, when one replied to 
this question, "Yes ! I used to go to see Sally Perkins, but her 
father had a bad habit of throwing the poker at people, and I 
stopped going to see." I merely wish to remark that if you 
have been to sea (spelled s-e-a) you know just how some people 
act, and perhaps just how they feel, when the unpleasantness 
we have alluded 
to commences. 
There does not, 
it is true, seem 
to be any good 
a n d sufficient 
reason, to one 
who has not 
been through it, 
why a man who 
has disturbance 
at his equator, 
should scowl at 
you when you 
smilingly say 

"Good morninp-" to him, and look as though he would be 
willing to scalp his grandmother for two cents ; but there is a 
good reason, and many a pious man will look at you in just this 
way after he has been to sea for a few hours. Others will go 
to the opposite extreme and smile at you when even their lips 
are white." — Spencer s Notes. 

The First Breakfast 

"1 was awakened the first morning ot our cruise by a bugle 

call, and after completing my toilet with some risk, for even 

granting that you are not seasick, you do not get on what they 

call your sea legs for some days, and unless you have a safety 




"Staunch and strong, a goodly 'vessel, 
That shall laugh at all disaster, 
cAnd with waves and whirlwind "wrestle I " — Long fellow 



The Start 



•"^W"**' . 



NorddeUtscfyer Lionel 



Tfampfer „ALLER", den 6. Febr. 1898 



19 



L 



FRUrtSTUGK 

Aepfel Apfelsinen 

M lUgries Hafergriiize 

Pfannkuchen Buchweizenkucben 

icherte Haringe 

Stinte in Tomaten-Sauce 

Beefsteak 

I [ammelcdtelettes 

( leb. Leber 

Gek. Kier nach Wunsch 

Eierkachen mil Uelee 

Rtlhrei mit Kase 

steten Speck & Schinken 

Brat- & frische Kartofleln 

Mettwurst Rinderzunge 

Ingwer Marmelade 

Toast Orahambrod Brodchen 

Schnecken 
Chocolade < ac.io Thie K 

Frische Milch Saline 






BREAKFAST 

Apples I Manges 

Hominy I 'atmeal 

German pan-cake Buckwheat-calces 

Kippered herrings 

Smelts in tomato-sauce 

Beef-steak 

Mutton-chops 

Fried liver 

Boiled eggs to order 

I 'nielet with jelly 

Scrambled eggs with cheese 

Broiled bacon & ham 

Fried & fresh potatoes 

S iblath-sausages I ieef-tongue 

Ginger Marmalade 
Toast Grahambread Rolls 

Biscuits 

Chocolate Cocoa Tea Coffee 

Fresh milk Cream 



J 



ra/or, it is just as well that you do not undertake to shave the 
first morning'. However, I managed to scrape my chin without 
cutting my throat, and getting on deck I muffled myself up in 
a shawl and watched the ocean till another bugle call summoned 
me to breakfast. Under the dining saloon windows, or port 






Cruise to the Orient of the Express S. S- "ALLER* 

FORWARD SALOON 
SECOND SITTING 

Breakfast 8.30 a. m.; I.unch 1 p. m.; Dinner 7 p. m 



N/ / / No. 



20 



The Start 



holes, there was a broad seat running the length of the room 
and heavily cushioned with velvet. The side tables were 
arranged so that one end of the table came up to this cushioned 
seat, and the passenger assigned to this end had no chair, but 
sat on the cushion. When I came to my table I found the 
person at this end was a very tall, solemn-looking old gentle- 
man, with a mouth cut straight across. By the way, you may 
notice that the owners of such mouths never see a joke. As 
Sidney Smith once said, it would take a surgical operation to 
oet one into them. The table oaiard was loose and he took it 
out. We were waiting for the first course. Just then the ves- 
sel gave a heavier roll than usual, and the old gentleman, who 
towered above me, sitting as straight as a ramrod, suddenly 
doubled up and pitched back on the cushion, while knives and 
forks, spoons and sundry small crockery, billowed over him. 
He rose up six feet or more, looking as melancholy as a Quaker 
meeting house by moonlight, and went off to his stateroom and 
we saw no more of him for some days." — Spencer. 




Second Day at Sea 

•'I am leaning o'er the rail, 
And I'm feeling very pale. 
Am I looking for a sail ? 

No, I'm not. 
I'm my father's only daughter 
Casting bread upon the water 
In a way I hadn't oughter 
And that's what." 

Via Miss A. 



The Start 21 

Table Experiences, Seasickness and the Like 

" Each person has his number at the table and the waiters 
are very attentive, and these waiters, by the way, are veritable 
factotums. At one time you will see them carrying " Baked 
calf's liver a la Godard " for example, and at another time the 



§$ozbbeukchvc f-fotib 



T>ampfer „ALLER", den 7. Febr. 
LUN©H 



189 a 



a?~Vr 



Clam-chowder, Fleischbriihe 

Gefullte Kalbsbrust Spinat 

Gebackene Kartoffeln 

Capaunenbraten 

Prunellen 

Gebackene Aepfel 

Blatterteig 

Kaffee 

KALTE SPEISEN AUF WUNSCH 

Lachs Salat mit Mayonnaise 

Delicatess Haringe, Aal in Gelee 

Caviar Sardinen Anchovis 

Gekochter Schinken 

Leber & Mettwurst 

Cornedbeef Ochsenzunge Nagelholz 

Salzgurken Oliven 

Rothe Beeten 

Kartoffel-Salat 

Chester-, Rahm- & Lloyd-Kase 



Clam chowder, Consomme 

Stuffed breast of veal, spinach 

Baked potatoes 

Roast-capon 

Prunelles 

Baked apples 

Cannelons 

Coffee. 

COLD DISHES TO ORDER 

Salmon-salad with mayonaise 

Pickled herrings Eel in jelly 

Caviare Sardines Anchovies 

Boiled ham 

Liver- & sablath- sausages 

Cornedbeef Beef tongue Smoked beef 

Salt-cucumber Olives 

Red beets 

Potato-salad 

Chester-, cream- & Lloyd-cheese 



same men will be pounding the cymbals in the orchestra, blow- 
ing the horn or scraping a violin with much skill and with the 
same attention to business. They are obedient and active on 
four hours sleep and seven dollars a month it is said. 

Monday the sea was wilder and at table the dishes would 
persist in sliding away from us. When the ship was at an angle 
ol 45° windward 1 discovered my soup, with a formidable Dutch 
name, quietly running across the table. About the only way to 
keep ones victuals was to swallow them, and then it was not 
any too certain that they would not reappear at a mosl embar 



rassing moment. 



22 



The Start 



The remedies (preventatives of) for seasickness are legion, 
flirtation, poker, champagne, lemon's, homeopathic pellets, 
hypodermic injections, allopathic concoctions, but no preven- 
tative is more infallible than that given by a young lady at the 
table — " Stay at home." 

Monday evening a storm arose and all chairs and portable 
articles on the decks were lashed fast together, and to the stan- 
chions by means of ropes. The wind blew a gale and it was 
dangerous to face it. Waves dashed across the upper deck. 
One martyr sitting near an open port hole got seven and one- 
half buckets full of salt water down his back. What he said in 
German I don't know, but sober-minded men afterwards said it 
was a case of riohteous indignation. 

Some of the sea-sick passengers' experiences were comical, 
but especially the effort to disguise the causes of difficulty. On 
our first day out I was talking with a young man who knew all 
about the sea, but feeling not exactly well. Saturday evening 
he had gone to his room to see about it and did not appear 
until this morning, when he looked pale and in need of fresh 
air. It is said the best way to prevent seasickness is to think 
nothing about it ; that is an impossibility, since every one 
does talk about it, and even if the man does not talk about it 
he must, if he walks about the corridors and the decks, hear 
sounds not unearthly, but very suggestive. Unless a man 
walks the boat with his eyes shut he is bound to see evidences 
of the malady ; so that the man that can make the voyage and 
not think of seasickness is a marvelous piece of mechanism." 
— Parke s Notes. 

u In the Glooming " 

"On the steamer, oh ! my darling, 

When you hear the fog-horns blow, 
And the footsteps of the steward 

Softly come and softly go, 
When the passengers are moaning 

With a great and awful woe, 
Don't you think 'twere better, darling, 

If we two should go below? 

In the cabin, oh ! my darling, 

Think not bitterly of me, 
That I rushed away and left you 

In the middle of our tea. 
I was seized with sudden longing 

Just to gaze upon the sea. 
It was best to leave you thus, dear, 

Best for you and best for me." 

Via Miss A. 




'r/litd the footsteps of the steward 
Softly come and softly go," 



The Start 23 

Mediterranean Trip, and Region in General ; Bibliography 

Murray's Handbook to the Mediterranean, with many excellent maps and plans. 
2 vols. Most complete and best (or the region in general. 

Allen, Grant. The European Tour. 

APPLETON'S European Guide Book for English-speaking Travelers. 29th edition. 
2 vols. New York (Appleton). 

Brooks, Noah. The Mediterranean Trip. Illustrated. Maps. New York 
(Scribnei). 

Butterworth, H. Zig-zag Journey on the Mediterranean. Illustrated (Juvenile). 
Boston. 

PLAYFAIR, LlEUT.COL. SlR S. LAMBERT. Handbook to the Mediterranean. 3d 
edition, revised. Map. Plans. 2 vols. London (Murray), 1S92. 

Twain, Mark. Innocents Abroad. 

Stevenson, Mrs. Scott. On Summer Seas: Mediterranean, .Egean, Ionian, 
Euxine (Chapman). 

Bu< KLEY (LL. D), J. M. Travels in Three Continents. Illustrated. New York. 
A characteristic narration of the author's travels in the lands bordering the 
Mediterranean, including" Palestine. Profusely and beautifully illustrated. 

Davis, Richard Harding. The Rulers of the Mediterranean. Illustrated. New- 
York ( Harper). 

Emerson's New York to the Orient. 2d edition. 

Knox, Thomas Wallace. The Boy Travellers in the Far East. Part 4: Egypt 
and the Holy Lands. 43S pages. Illustrated. New Yoik (Harper). 

McKEEVE, COL. Chas. How we Went and What we Saw — Travels in Egypt 
Syria, and the .Egean Sea. New York. 

Seven Wonders of the Woild. Description of the Wonders'of Antiquity. Illustrated. 

Stoddard, John L. John L. Stoddard's Lectures. Illustrated and embellished 
wuh views of the world's famous places and people. (Feeing the identical dis- 
courses delivered during the past eighteen years under the title of " The Stod- 
dard Lectures.") 10 vols. Boston (Balch Bros. Co.), 1898. 

The Picturesque Mediterranean : Its Cities, Shores and Islands. Beautifully illus- 
trated. 2 vols. New York (Cassell). 

WARNER, C. DUDLEY. In the Levant. 2 vols. Illustrated. 

WILSON. An Oriental Outing. 

Ball, E. A. REYNOLDS. Mediterranean Winter Resorts: a Practical Handbook 
27 Illustrations. London. 

Ylo, Dr. J. B. Health Resorts and Their Uses. London. 

GOODYEAR, William Henry. A History of Art, for Classes, Art Students and 
Tourists in Europe. Nearly 400 illustrations. 357 pages. Good Index. 
New York (A. S. Barnes & Co.). Three subdivisions : Architecture, Sculpture 
and Painting. Foreign names pronounced in text. 

LUBKE, WlLHELM. H istory of Art. 2 vols. 600 illustrations. New York (Dock!, 
Mead & Co.). 

Thompson, Kail. Handbook to the Galleries of Europe. New York (Macmilan). 
1S80. 

Fekgi SSON, James. A History of Architecture in all Countries, from the Earliest 
Times to the Present Day. 2 vols. 101 5 illustrations. 

Mathews, C. T. The Story of Architecture. New York (Appleton). 

REDFORD, Geo. Sculpture: Egyptian, Assyrian, Greek and Roman. 160 illustra- 
tions. New York (Scribnei). 

Champlin, Jr., John D, and Perkins. Painters and Paintings, Cyclopedia ol 
4 vols. 20oo illustrations. New York (Scribnei). 

RADCL1FFE, Miss A. G. Schools and Masters of Painting, with an Appendix on the 
Principal Galleries of Europe. Illustrated. New York (Appleton). 

Van Dvkl, John C. A Text Book of the History of Painting (Longman, Green 
& Co.). 

Vasari's Lives of the Painters. Ed. Blash fields & Hopkins. Library edition, 
4 vols. 

Field. Rev. Ilv. The Greek I funis. Cr, New York. 



24 



Cruise, Cruisers and Cruisin' Things 



Pickford, Smith, R. A. H. Cretan Sketches. 270 P. O. London. Including 

Annotated Bibliography, 76 titles. 
Cresnola, Gen. Louis Palma di. Cyprus: Its Ancient Cities, Tombs and Temples; 

a Narrative of Researches and Excavations during Ten Years' Residence in 

that Island. 456 pages. Illustrated. Maps. New York. 
Caird, L. H. The History of Corsica. 179 pages. London. Best History for 

English Reader. Bibliography of iS titles. 




Cruise, Cruisers and Cruisin' Things 

Like Mark Twain's excursion over almost the same route 
described in his book, " The Innocents Abroad," the great Aller 

excursion no doubt had been talked 
about and discussed at countless fire- 
sides during the winter of 1897 and 
1S98. It was a novelty in the way of 
excursions, and as Mark Twain puts 
it, " A pic-nic on a gigantic scale. In- 
stead of youth and beauty, with pies 
and doughnuts, paddling up some 
obscure creek to disembark upon a 
grassy lawn and to wear themselves 
out through the long summer days 
"And curk smiled" bylaborious frolicking, under the im- 

pression that it was fun," the great steamship was to sail away 
across the Atlantic, by the Azores and through the Mediterran- 
ean, taking its passengers to various and sundry points of 
interest. To be indeed a sort of- floating palace, or better 
still a home to which we ever and anon returned with pleas 
urable feelings and courteous reception lor delightful reunions 
and exchange of sentiment, or as one of our facetious college 
presidents remarked, " to hold experience meetings." 

We were said to have 355 passengers and 233 officers and 
crew, in all 588 souls. The vessel was the Dampfer Aller, as 
many rejoiced and persisted to the end in calling her ; she 
registered 5,216 tons, was 455 feet long, 47 feet 10 inches wide, 
33 feet 10 inches deep, and was able to carry 1,508 tons of 
coal. The consumption of coal, rapid and galloping, was 
1 50 tons per day. It took between 50 and 60 men, shoveling 
these 150 tons of coal daily, under 7 boilers, to make the 
steam required for the triple expansion engine, which revolved 
the huge screw propeller made of manganese bronze 22 




1 The skipper, he stood beside the helm. 
His pipe "was in his mouth. "—Longfellow. 



feet in diameter, and to run 
the two dynamos which fur- 
nished the vessel with its 530 

electric lights. 

•• This is the man that ki>n-d 
the maid that milked the cow that 
tn^cd the dog that worried the rat 
that killed the rat that ate the malt 
that lay in the house that Jack built." 

The speed of the vessel 
was about 15 knots per hour, 
but when " humping it up " 
(as the boys remarked) to 
make connections, must have 
been 15 naughts phis any- 
thing. l'>\- the; way the captain 
was said to have been much grieved by the inquiry of a cer- 
tain lady as to whether the ship would get to a certain port on 
time. "Whs', madam," said he, "this vessel is just like an 
express train on land : it will be there on scheduled time," and 
it always was. The vessel had four decks, promenade, main. 
saloon, lower deck. She was built in Glasgow in 1886, con- 
tained 02 state-rooms, had 16 life boats, 2 rafts, 8 water-tight 
bulk-heads and 1024 lite preservers. 

Captain Xeirich, the commander, was a rosy, genial Ger- 
man, popular with everybody and yet devoted to his duty, caring 
most ot all for his ship, and so admirably managing and oxer- 
seeing the different departments that it was with eager and 
spontaneous action the passengers, before separating, met and 
unanimously passed the commendatory and congratulatory reso- 
lutions recorded in another place. Money was also subscribed 
by the passengers, and the captain was presented with a beau- 
tiful gold watch, purchased by a committee ot the passengers 
at Athens with a part of the money. The rem, under was divided 
into equal sums and placed m purses ami presented to tin- other 
officers, requesting them to buy some appropriate souvenir, and 
to have inscribed upon it the fact ol its presentation to 1 hem b) 
the passengers on this cruise, b was the unanimous opinion 
of tin- passengers that they had never witnessed such patien 



26 Cruise, Cruisers and Cruisin' Things 

and discipline and skill as were exhibited in every part of the 
vessel by the officers and crew. 

To speak of each officer and of each department of the 
ship in detail, our physician and pursers and engineers and 
stewards and our never-to-be-forgotten band and orchestra 




Our Band 



would be impossible. I only want to call them over so that 
pleasant impressions may be revived. To the band we owe 
much pleasure. These faithful fellows who played during 
the long eating hours and many times between, who not 
only were musicians but attended to other duties, as stewards, 
won, I am sure, the admiration and respect of many of us. 
The thoroughness in every part of their work, their untiring 
efficiency and patience was a source of constant remark. 

The manning of the ship was as follows : 5 officers, the 
commander, the chief officer, the second officer, the third officer, 
the fourth officer, 1 ship's physician, 1 purser, 1 assistant purser, 

1 chief engineer, 7 engineers, 4 assistant engineers, 8 overseer 
firemen, 26 regular firemen, 38 coal trimmers, 38 sailors, 1 chief 
steward, t second steward, 1 third steward, 4 chefs, 3 bakers, 

2 butchers, 2 confectioners, 5 stewardesses, 1 barber, 8 musi- 
cians, 60 stewards, 1 provision steward, 7 pantrymen, 1 2 dish- 
washers, 1 porter ; making in all a crew of 233 men. (The 
names of the officers are recorded in another place.) 

Of the 355 passengers, as careful a list as could be made, 
gives the following data : Of course some of the party only 
went as far as Naples ; others joined us at Alexandria and left 



Cruise, Cruisers and Cruisin' Things 27 

at Constantinople ; others left again at Naples and went up 
through Europe, but the list shows the company to have been 
made up about as follows: 76 women, 1 go men, 68 misses. 4 
masters, 10 doctors, 55 reverends, 2 honorables, 2 professors, 
1 college president, 2 women doctors, 1 colonel, 85 from Penn- 
sylvania, 58 from New \ ork, 44 from Massachusetts, 22 from 
Illinois. 17 from Ohio, 14 from Iowa, 11 from New Jersey, 9 
from California, 9 from Indiana, 7 from Missouri, 6 from Con- 
necticut. 5 from Ontario, 5 from North Carolina. 4 from Min- 
nesota, 4 from the Dominion of Canada, 4 from Michigan, 3 
from West Virginia, 3 from Boston, 3 from Washington, 3 from 
Vermont, 2 from New Hampshire. 2 from Kentucky. 2 from 
Arkansas, 2 from Texas, 2 from Georgia. 2 from Kansas, 1 
from Montana and 1 from Nova Scotia. (The passenger list is 
recorded in the back of the book, i 

The ship was provisioned in New \ ork with food enough 
as it seemed for an army. An imperfect transcript of the 
purser's record is given in another place. 1 am sure it will be 
interesting to refer to this as we remember the excellent variety 
and the well served menus provided throughout that long excur- 
sion. One fact in regard to a most perishable delicacy is 
rather curious and startling, namely, that from start to finish 
we were provided with ice cream purchased in Xew York. 
Samples of our menus are to be found in another place The 
abundance and quality of the food was astonishing, and 
the amount eaten was simply tremendous. We seemed to 
be for a time, as we cruised over the ocean, simply machines 
for eating and digesting. No effort was spared on the part 
of the management to provide every passenger with food on 
every occasion. After a most elaborate breakfast it was aston- 
ishing to find great numbers ol 
people availing themselves ol 
the delicious lunch passed around 
about ten or eleven o'clock, and 
then, after the more elaborate 
lunch at mid day, it was no unus 
ual sight to see hall the passen 
gers on deck partaking ol the 
delicious thin sliced bread san< 1- 
w iches. cra< kers and 1 il her deli 




' Hcrw stveet It nacre, ■with half -shut eyes lo seem 
Falling asleep In •> half dream 

-rles on the beach. 

And lev 'Ines of creamy spra ." Lot Eaters* 



28 



Cruise, Cruisers and Cruisin' Things 




Cruise, Cruisers and Cruisin' Things 29 

cades passed around so patiently and continually In - the 
stewards. And one would have thought, after a two-hour's 
dinner with uncountable courses, that that would have finished 
the day, but by ten the dining room was frequently half filled 
with passengers still further indulging in sandwiches, lemon- 
ade, drinkables and eatables of various description. It is mar- 




5 - . , 









_ — r • 



"Bugle Calls— "Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner — Sunday cMorning 

velous the amount of food one is able to consume at sea and 
yet remain well. I often fancied that people who felt the 
unusual disturbance of seasickness were led to imagine that 
this was the uneasy sensation in the stomach caused by hunger. 
On land, too, we were invariably well fed. At the hotels the 
meals, even in the Oriental countries and in the out-of- 
the-way places, were simply astonishing, soups and course 
dinners being the constant experience. The breakfasts on 
land, however, were not quite so satisfactory. Everywhere 
these were light, consisting principally ol fruit, coffee, rolls, 
butter, marmalade and eggs, if we desired them. Ordinarily 
the breakfast would consist of simpl) coffee, rolls and butter. 
One of our passengers made some interesting notes in regard 
to the food. I b- -^ays : ' It is customary in the Easl to i harge 
extra for tea. At Jerusalem they charge six cents per cup. 
Sometimes our tourists were inclined to draw the line at cer 
tain articles of food, especially the butter, which had a very 
peculiar color, but which did not usually have an ill taste. 



30 Cruise, Cruisers and Cruisin' Things 









> 


j 




u 


■ -^Y 








<- ( 

■ {/ J *//; 7 






is- 


/ 
- '■/' '// / - \ ' 


r 




/* a. . 


/ 




m 




, ,/r l ///* 4^ ; 

/ ■ ■ • CLA - 




f 1 


UC>.^-{ ■'"■ 


(a < K i ^_ ^o > 

( , c" 

* 

1 
i 

i 



Lost and Found 

The milk served we understood to be goat's milk, and it had a 
peculiar flavor. Sometimes dishes were served, especially at 
lunch, the status of which the bright ladies ot our party were 
not able to fix. At Nazareth a dish was served which some 
insisted must be 'fricasseed donkey', but which was allowed 
to be by no means unpalatable. 

Eggs and chickens constituted the most frequent articles 
of diet in Palestine, and as eggs are very cheap there, and their 
shells insured cleanliness, they were a favorite. At most hotels 
the people were polite and attentive, and everywhere we found 
some English spoken." 

Usually there is considerable apprehension among tourists 
with regard to the drinking water in various cities in the East. 
Mr. Archbold's observation was that none of the water served 
anywhere was dangerous to health, although many, antici- 



Cruise, Cruisers and Cruisin* Things 



31 



pating- it would be, supplied themselves with wine for drinking. 
"In Cairo we drank water from the Nile, which the hotel 
manager told us was twice filtered, first by the municipality of 
Cairo, and next at the hotel. At Jerusalem we drank rain water, 
filtered. Our conductor assured us the cisterns were kept 
clean, and there was no reason why the rain water was not 
an acceptable drink, from a sanitary standpoint. 

"\Ye also found £ood water in Athens, Rome, and other 
places we visited." The tendency, however, in all these places 
is to substitute the bitter wine of the country, which is much 
less satisfactory in quenching thirst, but is not so likely to cause 
inconvenience. 

In regard to the money used, it maybe interesting to record 

the experience of one of our party in 
this matter also. " A very interesting, 
practical question with travelers 
abroad is to decide what kind of 
money is most desirable to take 
with them for expenditures in travel- 
ing. Friends in New York advised 
me to take nothing but English and 
French money (either bills or coins) 
in traveling to Mediterranean ports. 
1 found this advice to be correct, as 
the money of these two countries was 
acceptable everywhere, although we 
often found it necessary to secure the 
money of the countries in which we 
visited, especially the small denom- 
inations of the same, for our own convenience. 

My own experience led me to believe the money having 
the highest standard at the present time is British money, 
although it is only fair to say French money is popular, and 
especially the French franc, which I think is used in ([noting 
prices in the East even more frequently than the English 
shilling. 

We found it necessary to be very careful about taking the 
paper money of the countries we visited, especially the paper 
money of Italy, which, while acceptable in that country, would 
not pass without a heavy discount outside of Italy. I he Italian 




"In the afternoon they come unto a land 
In which it seemed always afternoon 
cAll 'round the coast the languid air did swoon." — 

Lotos-Eaters. 



32 Cruise, Cruisers and Cruisin' Things 

paper money, however, is of very convenient shape, and seems 
to be liked by the people of Italy. 

It is interesting to note that the francs of France, Belgium 
and Switzerland, the drachma of Greece, the lira of Italy, the 
peseta of one hundred centimes of Spain, have all nominally 
about the same value in our money, namely, about twenty cents. 

We found the smaller coins of some of the countries we 
visited very interesting, especially the half piaster of Egypt, 
which is a beautiful coin of about the same size as our nickel, 
and is worth about two and one-half cents in our money. In 
addition to being a very pretty coin we found it quite available, 
as we could pay for a ride on the trolley cars of Cairo with it, 
pay the omnipresent bootblack and fulfill the demands of 
baksheesh. Except on our ship, or at ports in communication 
with ports in the United States (this was especially true of our 
paper money), the coin currency of the United States is very 
little known abroad. 

The Gallant Fourth Officer 

" Let me make mention of a gallant officer of the Aller s 
crew. A Dago steamer of British descent, just before the 
Aller s arrival in New York on her last voyage before ours, 
signaled distress. She had broken her shaft and was in a 
sinking condition. The sea was very high, too high, the cap- 
tain thought, to order men out in the lifeboat ; the disabled 
steamer's lifeboat had been crushed by the waves as they 
attempted to lower it ; so the captain of the 
Aller was compelled to ask for volunteers. 

"The fourth officer and nine other men 
bravely started, with the statement from the cap- 
tain that if anything happened them, he would 
head the Aller for them immediately. For five 
hours they worked, and twenty-four men were 
saved. About four hours after the disabled boat 
sank, carrying all its cargo with it and the sailors' 
belongings likewise. 

"Later, during a gathering in the saloon, 
gilts appropriate to the occasion and the deed were made to 
the officer and his nine men. The rescued men were presented 
with hats and coats by the sailors of the Aller crew." — Parke. 




Cruise, Cruisers and Cruisin' Things 



ZZ 



Afterward the fourth officer received, it is said, medals 
from Germany, England and America. Of course, he was our 
hero, and being fine and soldier-like in appearance, he was 
greatly courted by the ladies. 

Amusements 



"One of the diversions on ship is "Shuffle Board", in 
which the player, with an oar-shaped paddle, shoves a wooden 

disk about eight inches in diam- 
eter from a chalk line about 
fifteen feet to spaces marked ofi 
with chalk and numbers from 
one up to fifteen. There are 
two sides. It resembles " Croci- 
nole ", and is as innocent as tid- 
dle-de-winks. 

Ring toss is a shipboard 
game, and I indulged in the 
harmless amusement. Not being used to toss when the 
foundations wen- in motion, I was beaten twice, but recovered 
and won the last two. The rings used are rope an inch or 
more in diameter, dexterously connected as only sailors can 
do it." — Parke. 




Diversion 



THE AZORES AND PORTUGAL 




Off the Azores 

THE AZORES AND PORTUGAL 

Bibliography 

Baker, C. Alice. A Summer in the Azores, with a Glimpse of Madeira, pp. 174, etc. 
Boston (Lee & Shephard) ; New York (Dillingham). (Much information in 
small compass ; captivating style.) 

Goodman, Frederick Duncane. Natural History of the Azores or Western Islands. 
London. 

Walker, Walter Frederick. The Azores or Western Islands. Maps and illus- 
trations. London. 

WEBSTER, J. W, A Description of St. Michael. Boston. 

BENJAMIN, S. G. W. Cruise Among the Azores. Scribner's Monthly, New York. 
Vol. 6, pp. 5 13, etc. 

Dark Blue (London), vol. 4, pp. 452. Three Years in the Azores. 

Dark Blue (London), The Azores, pp. 302. Littell's Living Age (Boston), vol. 116 

(■873) 
HlGGlNSON, Col. T. W. Fayal and the Portuguese. Atlantic Monthly (Boston), 

vol 6 (November, i860), pp. 526, etc. (Good). 
HOWARTH, O. Cycling in the Azores. Outing (New York), vol. 28, pp. 35. 
Ward. F. B. Ascent of Mount Pico. Current Literature (New York), vol. 19, 

pp. 271-2. 

February i 2th. 
2289 Mi^s C > v 1 1 . 

"We have steamed rather slowly since yesterday, in order 
to give the tourists the best possible opportunity to see tin- 
Azores or Western Islands. These islands arc situated about 
1000 miles west of Gibraltar, and. before the discovery ol 
America, were supposed to be located on the farthest boundary 
of the world, to the west. 

The islands are nine in number and bear the following 
names: Corvo, limes, Fayal, Pico, Gracioso, San Jorge, Ter 
ceira, San Miguel and Santa Maria. They have an aggregate 



38 The Azores and Portugal 

population of a little over a quarter of a million people. Corvo 
has the smallest population (1000) and San Miguel the largest 
(105,000). 

The conditions as to weather were entirely favorable for an 
inspection of the islands, as we had an unclouded sky and the 
balmiest breezes We sighted Mt. Pico on the island of Pico, 
about r 1 a. m. (a mountain 7613 feet high), and by 2 p. m. were 
fairly abreast of the island of Fayal. These islands are of vol- 
canic origin and have but few trees and they of stunted growth. 

The scenes that greeted our eyes, especially on the islands 
of Fayal and San Miguel, were of great attractiveness. The 
arable land is divided into what appeared to be exceedingly 
small plots, by what seemed like dry hedges. We noted, how- 
ever, that the steeper the hillside the smaller were the plots of 
ground, and, therefore, concluded that the hedges were planted 
in part to prevent the soil from being washed off. These minia- 
ture farms seemed to be under perfect cultivation. The 
temperature is said to range from 70 to 80 degrees the 
year round. The exports are wine, brandy, oranges, lem- 
ons, pine apples, beef, pork, coarse linen and simple manufac- 
tures from osiers and fibres of corn husks. We saw some fish- 
ermen from the islands in their boats, and they impressed us as 
being a rather short and stocky people. Their houses are white 
and some of them exceedingly diminutive. In the larger vil- 
lages and towns there were buildings of considerable size. We 
saw many wind-mills, which added to the picturesqueness of 
the scene. The people are very primitive, depending chiefly 
on bullock carts as a means of transportation. 

We had a most favorable opportunity to view Mt. Pico, 
which is said to resemble Mt. Vesuvius. The top is covered 
with snow and fleecy clouds hung about the mountain, a con- 
siderable distance from its apex. The spectacle of this moun- 
tain during the late afternoon and evening was a most inspiring 
one, as it was bathed in sunlight. We had a good view of two 
of the larger towns and seaports of the island — Fayal, on the 
island of Fayal, and Ponta Delgado, on the island of San 
Miguel — the latter is said to contain about 18,000 people. 
These islands were discovered by Flemish navigators in the 
fifteenth century. They did not care to appropriate them, how- 
ever, and Portugal subsequently took possession of them. I do 



The Azores and Portugal 39 

not remember any mention of the Azores in the account of the 
voyage of Columbus, but as the)- lie fairly in the path he would 
naturally take, it seems reasonable to conjecture that he passed 
in sight of them. They were taken possession of by Don 
Henry, the navigator, on behalf of Portugal, in 1449, forty-three 



§3 

si 



if "5, 

ft 




years before Columbus discovered America — and who knows 
but their discovery may have helped to stimulate Columbus to 

make the effort at discovery which rendered him famous and 
placed him high on the roll of the world's benefactors." 
"On Saturday evening— it was Lincoln's birthday— by 



40 The Azores and Portugal 

special request, the Hon. S. M. Cutcheon, of Detroit, Mich., a 
former neighbor and friend of Lincoln's, at Springfield, 111., con- 
sented to speak on the always-interesting theme — Abraham 
Lincoln. It is only fair to say that Mr. Cutcheon electrified his 
hearers in his off-hand talk about his old friend, with whom, he 
told us, he had played ball many times, between two brick walls, 
in Springfield. I believe our affection for our own country 
increases as its shores recede, and I feel sure there was no 
more enthusiastic audience anywhere on the 13th of February 
than the one on our ship." — ArcJibold. 

Dec. 20, 1898. 
My Dear Mr. Mc Clare : 

Replying to your favor of the 16th inst. , repeating your request that I 
furnish you a copy or at least a skeleton of my brief talk on Abraham Lincoln 
before the Allcr friends on the evening of February 12th, 1898, I beg to say 
that I cannot comply with your wishes in that matter. 

At the dinner table on that evening some one observed that it was the 

anniversary of Mr. Lincoln's birthday, and in the course of conversation it 

became known that I was well acquainted with Mr. Lincoln before he was 

President. After dinner a committee of the passengers came to my stateroom 

and asked me if I would speak on Lincoln after the lecture that was to be 

delivered on Malta. I consented. I spoke in a familiar way without note 

and without preparation beyond that which comes to one from a knowledge of 

and love for his subject — in this case, one of the great names of our country 

and time and indeed of all countries and of all history. While on my feet I 

was not trying to remember what I was saying, but was trying to say what I 

remembered about Mr. Lincoln. It would be impossible for me to reproduce 

a single sentence of that talk. You will remember that we were in mid-ocean, 

and that all the passengers had been away from home long enough to be 

pleased to hear about things American ; that there is no more popular a theme 

with Americans than the personal characteristics of Abraham Lincoln ; that it 

was his birthday, and that there was a crowded audience of interested listeners. 

The theme, the occasion and circumstances were enough to inspire any man. 

Now, think, if you can, of my sitting down in my office with my stenographer, 

to whom I have been dictating for years, and trying to produce a speech made 

under such circumstances. I simply cannot do it. My mind revolts against 

the attempt, and I know you will excuse me.* 

Very sincerely yours, 

S. M. Cutcheon. 
* I had to.— Compiler. 

The Coast of Portugal 

"About 3 p. m., we sighted Europe. Point St. Vincent, 
Portugal. The coast is rocky, rugged and low. Some distance 
inland mountains and white houses were to be seen. Here and 
there near the shore occasionally a larger settlement. 



The Azores nnd Portugal 



41 




The point of land we approached first was ( ape St. Vincent, 
on which then- i-, a light-house and signal station. The captain 
drew quite close to land that we might view it, but primarily 
I suppose in order that our approach might In- signaled to 
Gibraltar and thence home to New York. Gibraltar is i.,; 
miles distant from this point. Sea craft became more numerous, 
I counted eight at 
one time. One small 

-e] had little trian- ^_^flMBH!f 

gular sails which the 
captain said were 
Roman sails. \V e 
could imagine the old 
Romans in Caesar's time, out on 
the great sea beyond the Pillars 
of Hercules, searching for blood 
or for oysters in just such vessels. 
We are told that from a forest in 
a remarkably short time- they con 
structed a fleet which competed successfully with the Cartha 
genians on the Carthagenian Lake. Evidently ship building, 
though not in its prime, was primarily rapid and rude. < ila 
now began to be used freely, but no one reported as to 
whether the Spaniards had conquered Cuba. Great numbers 
a gulls approached us now for the first time. I hey are 
somewhat different from the American birds. 1 hey are larger, 
and the tips of the wings are black. They amused us and 
themselves by rising and diving from a distance straight into 
the brine, going down cackling into the water wink- only a 
splash was seen where before was clumsy gull. 

It you have ever seen chimney swallows dive into a chim 
ney you have a picture ol the evolution ol these birds, bui 
there the similarity ends. Alter a few moments the) appear in 
a row about the hole where they " dove ". Wen , bonis 

ol porpoises heretofore, but here was evidently a 

demy, also the preparator ml. — /'■ 



. 



t 



42 



The Azores and Portugal 




The Coast of Portugal 



Verses Writ on St Valentine's Day 



" Two days ago we passed those isles 
Which once Columbus knew, 
Green sunny slopes and sunny peaks 
From out the ocean blue. 

A waving flag on ship and shore 

And then the message sped 

The Aller' s passed some thousand miles 

O'er ocean's oozy bed. 

To-day horizon's girdle shows 
Of land no faintest sign, 
Yet swifter, clearer speaks my heart 
To thee, my Valentine. 

Like ships at sea that side by side 
With idle sails at eventide 
Upon the unruffled waters lie 
So for an instant, you and I 
Drift here together on life's tide. 

Our port, our venture and beside 
Our course to each to serve as guide 
Across the narrow space we cry 
Like ships at sea. 

With swelling sails we swifter glide 
And soon, across the distance wide 
One hardly hears the faint " good bye " 
And so to meet no more for aye 
Upon life's main, our paths divide 
Like ships at sea." 

Walter Learned. 



The Azores and Portugal 43 

The Rolling Ball at Sea 

"Notices are posted on bulletin boards at convenient 
places of important events, such as lectures, dances, losses and 
finds, our mileage and when we get our shoes blacked. 

"Just now an invitation to a ball to be given on ship-board 
is upon the bulletin, besides this, we have all received special 
invitations with the statement, ' Dress or undress as you please.' 
Very few pleased to put on a dress suit and not many imperiled 
their lives and the lives of the spectators by dancing. How- 
ever, it was continued until ten o'clock. 1 h < • captain tripped 
his light fantastic sea-soaked toes and people pronounced him 
graceful." — Parke. 

It was very curious to see couples start out with the inten 
tion of "sashaing" down the middle and up the side, but who 
meandered unsteadily over the whole available space without 
rhyme or reason. It surely gave great amusement and pleasure, 
but of a very different kind from that enjoyed on shore. 



SPAIN 
Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 



SPAIN 



Gibraltar, Alhambra, Granada, The Moors; Bibliography 



Field, Henry M. Gibraltar. Illustrated, New Yoik. 

Gibraltar and its Sieges. London. 

Henty, George Alfred. Held Fast tor England: A Tale of the Siege ol 

Gibraltar. 
Irving, Washington. The Alhambra. The " Darro Edition, 2 , 

photogravures. New York. 
Marvin, Arthur (Edited by). The Alhambra. Illustrated. 
STODDARD, Die. Ch.AS. A. Spanish Cities, with Glimpses ol Gi 

tS Illustrations. New York. 
Irving, Washington. The Conquest of Granada. 2 voU. New 
FrOUDE, Prof. Jami S An 1 11. The Spanish Story of the Armada, and other Essa; s. 

New York. 
Lea, 11. C. Chapters from the Religious History of Spain. Philadelphia. 
Hume, M. A. S. Modern Spain. Illustrated. (Story of the Nation's Ser.) New York. 
pRESCOTT, W. H. History of the Reign of Ferdinand and Isabella. Edited by 

J. F. Kirk. London. 
Greenlee, William MacC In the Shadow of the Alhambra; or, Last of the 

Moorish Kings. 
BL'LWER-LYTTON. Leila; or, Siege of Granada. 
Glenot, Henri. Moors of Granada (transl ited 1. 
Brabazon, Elizabeth J. Tales from Spanish History. 

A.MICIS, E. de. Spain and the Spaniards, pp.438 Illustrated. New Vork, 
Hare, A. J. C. Wanderings in Spain. Illustrated. I. 'melon. 
Cervantes, Miguel de. Don Quixote. 
Landor, Robert. Fawn of Sertorius. 
ALAR9ON, Pedro Antonio de. Moors and Christians. 
Jaccaci, August F. On the Trad of Don Quixote. Illustrated. 
Middlemore, Mrs. S. G. Spanish Legendary Tales. London. 
COPPEE, H. History of the Conquest of Spain by the Arab Moors (translated). 

2 vols. Boston. 

- Lane. The Moors in Spain. Maps and illustration-. (Story of the Nation. 

Popular Series. Very good.) New York. 
Yonge, Mh^. Christians and Moors in Spain. New York. 
Neai.e, John Mason. Rescue; aTaleoftheM onquest of Spain. (In his 

tales illustrating Church history.) 
Guervillk, A. B. de. Bull Fights: Beauties and Heroes of Spanish Bull 

Illustrated. 
Carpenter, M. T. Gibraltar. A Fortress of Centuries. 
Alling, J. T. Pillars of Hercules. 1 '"■', vol. 1 pn 

Reiu, W. J. The Alhambra. \ (Boston), vol. S, p 

' ■ 
Pennell, E. R. Lights and Shadows of the Alhambra. 1 
page 
. E. An American in Madrid during the War. i't-ntury M 

e 45° (January, 1 
1. 1., J. II ! Trip in Spain. < ■ ■/:;■ 111/1 1 ' (Lond 

714 I M iy, 1 



Carved on a Stone Senlry B'.x at Gibraltar 



I. ; 











WflTERPORT. , 

Permll unl II iir t e\ enln 
gunfire. 

IUIIN 111 NM 1 . 

I). Chief "i l'' i' 





48 



Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 




"Like a. huge British Lion reclining in "watchful attitude 



GIBRALTAR, THE ALHAMBRA AND THE MOORS 
A Lecture delivered on Shipboard 

Ladies and gentlemen of tlie "Aller" Cruise : I feel myself 
somewhat embarrassed in attempting to perform the task which 
you have been led to believe by Mr. Clark's largely circulated 
inflammatory circulars, I am set down to perform, viz : Tell you 
all about Gibraltar, Alhambra and the Moors in one lecture. 

I am sure I did not understand the seriousness of the 
request, when I so lightly accepted the invitation, as did not the 
Frenchman who was asked to perform another serious function. 
However, he had the wisdom to inquire before accepting. 
Coming up to an American, he asked, politely : " My dear sir, 
will you not tell me what ze polar bear do ?" "You want to 
know what a polar bear does?" "Yes, yes; what ze polar 
bear do ?" "Well, he sits on the ice." "Oh, mon dieu, he 
sits on ze ice?" "Yes," said the American, "there is nothing- 
else for him to sit on." "Veil, vat he also do?" "He eats 
raw fish." " Oh, mon dieu, mon dieu. I cannot, I cannot. A 
polar bear eats raw fish and sits on ze ice. Then I not 
accept." "Why, what do you mean? What will you not 
accept?" "Oh, non, non, I does not accept polar bear (pall- 
bearer) to a funeral." 

Now, my friends, I promise that this performance will not 
be so lugubrious as a funeral, for I purpose to turn over an 
humorous tale at every convenient corner. 

But to return to my difficulty, in the first place, I realize 
that I cannot hope to tell all of you something new, for surely 
most of you who have undertaken so long and glorious a trip 
must have prepared yourselves diligently by reading the various 
Guide Books and books of travel pertaining to the route over 
which we are to go, and in which every conceivable bit of 
information has been gathered up in one form or another. 



Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 



49 



Then again, I am limited as to time. 1 am not to weary 
by a prolonged discourse the already overburdened and studious 
and fully occupied members of this party, who breakfast 
from seven to eleven, lunch from eleven to three, and dine or 
sleep from three to nine ; and who ought to exclaim, as did the 
country-man when glibly told similar hours for meals by the 
hotel clerk, "Jerushy! when am I going- to git time: to see 
the town !" 

1 have therefore tried to think out and select carefully for 
the wearied and preoccupied such material as will cover the 
ground as briefly and thoroughly as possible without making 
simply a catalogue of sights and wonders, which might easily 
be done. For the most part Guide Books give the places ot 
interest, and I can only hope to rehearse and condense many 
thimrs therein set down and to revive before the delightful 
moment of our visit, your memories and your reading. This 
is my acknowledgment to the various books from which I have 
quoted. I am, therefore, in the happy condition of the Southern 
darkey who was accused of stealing wood from his master's 
wood-pile. " No, Massa James, I ain't been stealin' no wood 
oft'n your wood-pile, no how." '' Now, Sambo, I know you are 
lying ; I know you have been stealing wood off my wood pile." 
•Lor', no, Massa James, I han't been stealing no wood oft'n 
your wood-pile. Some o' dem lyin' niggers been Kin' on me." 
• Now, look here, Sambo, I saw you steal that wood off the 
wood-pile." "O, lor', Massa James, dat's all right, if you saw 

I — : H 




" Honeycombed Ivith gMienes and bristling with CAnon " 



50 Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 

me stealm' that wood oft'n de wood-pile dat's all right, but I tot 
it was some of dem lyin' niggers lyin' on me." 

Like Sambo, I say to those who know the sources of infor- 
mation, that's all right ; I know you know. Don't accuse me, 
therefore, of piracy without acknowledgment. 

1 am to speak to you of Gibraltar, the Alhambra and the 
Moors, and volumes have been written on each subject. Most 
of you are familiar with the picture of the huge rock Gibraltar, 
and when we olide into the harbor will recognize it at once, 
looking like a huge British lion reclining in watchful attitude 
overlooking the straits between Europe and Africa, at the nar- 
rowest point, but thirteen miles in width. 

The rock is limestone, three miles long, irregular in width, 
six miles in circumference, rising 1400 feet, more or less, above 
the sea, and is literally honeycombed with long tunnelled gal- 
leries arranged in tiers, each a mile and a half in length, 
while from holes or windows in these galleries two thousand 
cannon, more or less, overlook the straits and town. These 
straits are forty miles long. On the one side is the Atlantic 
pouring its waters continuously into the Mediterranean, which 
from its location evaporates so rapidly that the current is always 
in this direction. 

The Phoenicians centuries ago believed that this was the 
end of the world, and tried to make others believe it, perhaps 
so that they could hold the monopoly of the trade. The Pillars of 
Hercules mentioned by these navigators were thought to have 
been Calpe, the Greek name for Gibraltar, and Abyla, the 
mountain on the opposite side in Africa. 

The Romans, it is said, in spite of their enterprise and 
curiosity, never went beyond the Pillars of Hercules until the 
time of the Emperor Augustus. The name Gibraltar is derived 
from Gebal-el-Taric, a Moorish warrior who landed at this point, 
April, 7, 711, and gave his name to the place. The rock was 
fortified and held by the Moors till 1 309, about 600 years, then 
captured by Spain, and twenty-seven years after, recaptured 

again by the Moors, and held by them 
for one hundred and twenty-nine years ; 
finally it was wrested from them once 
more and incorporated by the Spanish 
Crown in 1502, and so retained for 202 
years. 



" Great Guns " 




Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 



51 



In the war for the Spanish succession the Kings of France 
and Austria claimed the throne lett vacant on the death of 
Charles the Second without heir. Historians tell us that the 
complications became so numerous, through the operations of 
the Kino" of France, who succeeded in having his second errand- 
son, Philip, made king, that Great Britain and Germany and 
Holland entered into an alliance against France and Spain. It 
was the fourth year of that war, on the 24th of July, 1704. that 
the rock was attacked and 
captured by an English 
force, though it was taken 
in the name of the Austrian 
Duke. At the end of the 
conflict Gibraltar was given 
to Great Britain, which did 
not value the acquisition, 
and George the First was 
ready to relinquish what 
was generally thought to 
be a "barren rock, an in- 
significant fort and a use- 
less charge." Spain tried 
to conquer it soon afterward 
but failed. It was again be- 
sieged by France in 1779. 
In 1 780 Spain joined France 
in a sie^e lasting four years. 

An English author, with pardonable pride, speaking of the 
repulse of the besieging force, says : "It ended in the repulse 
of the enemy, whose Moating batteries, the invention of the 
ingenious M. de Arcon, which he had declared could neither be 
burned, sunk nor taken, were either burned, sunk or taken by 
plain Englishmen, who stood to their guns on that [3th day of 
September, [783." It costs the English Government to-day, 
some say, about five million dollars to support this fortress, 
and that without any profit. It is tremendousl) fortified, as 
you will see, and perhaps, in some respects, is the strongest 
fortification in the world. It is one of the outposts of England 
on her way to her eastern dominions. A line of these we will 
pass, by and by, such as Malta and Cyprus and Alexandria. 




S^eutral Strip— Bull Ring— Gateway — Rock Window— Parade Ground 



52 Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 

At Gibraltar England's fleets are sheltered, provisioned 
and coaled. It is the great wa tch tower from which the move- 
ments of warships can be observed and telegraphed to England 
iooo miles away. The English are constantly adding to the 
effectiveness of their gains and their fortifications. We will see 
every evidence of war and fortifications and English possession. 

Gibraltar contains about 30,000 inhabitants and seven or 
eight thousand English soldiers, so that red coated soldiers are 
everywhere in evidence. Mark them well, for they Mali contrast 
most favorably with the soldiers of any other country. 

At Gibraltar we will get our first glimpse of Oriental peo- 
ples. The proximity to Africa brings blacks and Nubians, 
Egyptians and Arabs, Moors and Turks, Greeks and Jews, 
Spaniards and Red Coats into this famous, place and the disput- 
ing - , bargaining-, gesticulating-, many-tongued crowd will make 
a strong appeal to Western eyes and ears. 

The town of Gibraltar is surrounded by a wall, and the 
gates are shut at sundown and not opened until sunrise. 
Passes are issued for entrance during- the time between. There 
are no public buildings of any particular interest in Gibraltar, 
though the white-washed barracks of the soldiers and the tre- 
mendous fortifications, as I have said, are everywhere in 
evidence. 

When we were at Gibraltar in 1895 no pictures were 
allowed to be taken within the fortifications ; I suppose the 
same rule holds to-day. England follows the rule of many 
other nations and jealously guards her secrets of strength. 

We were much interested in seeing the huge apes on top 
of the rock. They are tailless and harmless, but great thieves 
and frequently come down and rob the gardens of the people. 
Some authors suppose that it is from here the apes obtained by 
Solomon were found ; that it was from here those described in 
1st Kings 10th chapter and 22cl verse came : " For the king had 
at sea a navy of Tharshish with the navy of Hiram : once in 
three years came the navy of Tharshish, bringing gold and sil- 
ver, ivory, and apes and peacocks." 

It is thought that Andalusia was the Tharshish of the old 
time and that these are the descendants of the apes for which 
Solomon sent. 

Those who have read Mark Twain's humorous description 



Gibraltar, Malao-a, Alhambra 



53 




" The Pillar of Hercuhs looms abovz " 

will be on the lookout for the Queen's chair, the high hill on 
which one of the Queens took her seat when the French and 
Spanish troops were besieging Gibraltar and said she would 
never move from the spot until the English (lag was lowered 
from the fortress. If the English had not been gallant enough 
to lower the flag for a few hours one day, she would have had 
to break her oath or die up there. This story Mark declares 
nearly killed him. 

It is supposed that Gibraltar was connected with Africa at 
one time and that there were no Straits here, but in the historic 
period there is no evidence oi the truth ol this supposition. 
St. George's Hill and Europa Point oughl to be seen, and a 
drive taken to the little fishing village around the corner oi the 
rock, and, perhaps, over the neutral ground to the Spanish forti 
fications. The Crows Nest, too, ought to be seen, a ledge ol 
overhanging rock six or seven hundred feet high, which yawns 



54 Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 

fearfully over the water, and this reminds me of the story of 
the long-winded nephew of an old lady, who had been droning 
on for some hours about his travels in Switzerland. "And 
there I stood," he said, "Aunt Susan, with the abyss yawning 
in front of me." "William," said Aunt Susan, speakingas one 
who had long kept silence, " was that abyss a-yawning before 
you got there or did it begin afterward ?" 

It is noteworthy in this connection to recall the fact that 
Honorable Horatio J. Sprague has been our Consul at Gibraltar 
for over fifty years and that his father filled the place before him. 
This for a country which is sending with each new administration 
some new products abroad ; such as Hay to England and Porter 
to France and an Angel to Turkey ought to linger in our 
memories. 

It will be good to get back to the ship again after our day 
of sight-seeing and while we sleep or dine our ship will glide 
round the corner of the Straits and anchor at Malaga, a city 
whose name reminds us of grapes and fine wines and which 
contains the largest iron mills in Spain. It is also the home of 
the Spanish Lorings, a branch of the Massachusetts family of 
that name, who have obtained great wealth and rank in Spain 
through railroad building and through intermarriage with the 
prince? of the land. It is said that the superior condition of the 
streets, public buildings and many other improvements about 
Malaga is due to this American blood. There are beautiful 
parks and some notable structures in Malaga well worth a visit. 

Here will be seen on the streets typical Spanish life. 

Spanish beggars everywhere with extended hands and 
tears on tap tumbling out of every doorway and following us at 
every appearance. Long gowned curiously robed priests, and 
policemen like soldiers, and peddlers with all kinds of wares in 
innumerable baskets on diminutive donkeys. 

Our gallants will not fail to notice on the graceful balconies 
to be seen so frequently everywhere the black-eyed Spanish 
senoras and senoritas, with their picturesque lace mantles and 
mischief making eyes ; nor will the ladies fail to see the Span- 
ish Dons, handsome, gracious, courtly and picturesque. 

There will be many new and unusual and interesting sights, 
but Malaga is but the beginning of a most charming journey 



Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 



55 



through Spain. For the greater part of a day we will ride in 
curious apartment cars past great olive orchards and hedge rows 
of blossoming almonds, and orange and lemon trees, through 
sharp ravines, and savage gorges with the snow-clad Sierra 
Nevadas man) - times in sight, on. on up to the old city of 
Granada, the seat of the Alhambra. 

Says a traveler : " The ride to Granada for more than sixty 
miles is increasingly grand. The Sierra Nevadas rise to 
a height of nearlv 

o - 

twelve thousand feet, 
while other ranges 
are visible in every 
quarter. Our train 
plunges (if so ener- 
getic a term can be 
used of Spanish rail- 
roading) through wild 




mountain $Tomes and 

o o 

dark tunnels, around 
the base of danger- 
ous looking cliffs as 
wild as the Rockies, 
over pieces of road 
which compare favor- 
ably with our own 
en^ineerincr, under 
similar difficulties." In theSiefras 

Notice the wide unfenced fields, the irrigating ditches, the 
laborers, the houses ; they are all distinctive and interesting. 

The City of Granada, so called from the granates or 
pomegranates which formerly grew so profusely here, is built 
on hills, spurs of the Sierra Nevadas, at a height of more' than 
two thousand feet above the sea level. All around are charm 
ing valleys, watered by streams from the Sierras, and the 
country, although it is February, will look like our Middle 
States in May or fune. The Alhambra is the Incus and centre 
of our interest, and also the <>em and the setting of Granada. 

Says Buckley: "In the deepest valley of the most gloomy 
desert on the globe it would intoxicate and enthral, but its 



56 Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 

situation increases its fascination immeasurably. I doubt if 
earth contains a grander natural setting; for a more astonishing- 
human creation." Yet, even with this, I am convinced that the 
man or woman who is not familiar with the legends and stories, 
and traditions and history of the place, or who lacks imagi- 
nation, will miss the real charm which enthralls and captivates. 

Our own Washington Irving-, who lived in the Alhambra 
for many months, says : "To the traveler imbued with a feeling 
for the historical and poetical, so perceptibly intertwined in the 
annals of romantic Spain, the Alhambra is as much an object 
of devotion as is the Caaba to all true Moslems. How many 




Our Spanish Carriages 

legends and traditions, true and fabulous, how many songs and 
ballads, Arabian and Spanish, ol love and war and chivalry, 
are associated with this oriental pile. It was the royal abode 
of the Moorish kings, where, surrounded with splendors and 
refinements of Asiatic luxury, they held dominion over what 
they vaunted as a terrestrial paradise, and made their last stand 
for empire in Spain." 

No work of art, as you know, has been so fully described 
as the Alhambra. It has formed the theme of history, of 
poetry, of romance, of fiction, of science, until the whole has 
become a web of fact and fiction inextricably woven together. 
The whole has a distinct flavor of age and of mystery, which 
carries the mind back to a dreamy past. There is a legend 
which declares that Adam visited the earth a few years ago 



Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 57 

to see how his farm was coming on. When he alighted in 
Germany, he found there schools and colleges, and universities 
and books, and a world interested in learning. In France he 
found a world of art and fancy and fashion, and so on from 
country to country. He was disgusted, but when he came to 
Spain he exclaimed, " This is just as 1 left it. Here- is paradise." 
It is striking- to note that the Moors gave to Granada the 
name of "Damascus of the west", because, like Damascus, 
the Alhambra crowned the hill like the great dome which shows 
in the sun like the temple of the King of Kings in another city. 
But here are the same sky, and plains, and hills upon which the 
Moors first looked, wherein the) - lived and loved and delighted 
for so many years. And here, too, is part of the same palace 
of beauty and refinement and exquisite grace, revealing a 
surprising refinement and culture, until one is ready to exclaim : 
"The greatest calamity which ever happened to Spain was 
the expulsion of the Moors ! for truly art and science and 
refinement have never flourished here since." 

The royal palace of the Alhambra forms but a part of the 
fortress commonly called by that name. The walls around the 
inclosure are studded with towers, which stretch irregularly 
around the whole crest of the hill, which is, as 1 have said, a 
spur of the Sierra Nevadas, and overlooks the city. Externally 
it is a rude congregation of towers and battlements, with no 
regularity of plan nor grace of architecture, and gives little 
promise of the grace and beauty which prevails within. 

Says one : "The Moors, in everything differing from the 
Greeks and Romans, never cared much tor the- exterior — made 
it as plain as possible ; but the interior revealed, as with a sud- 
den burst of sunrise, a profusion and wealth of decoration 
which would alike astonish and captivate." 

The first impression of most travelers is that of disappoint 
ment, and there is a tendency to disparaging criticism. < > 1 1 r 
party will not be an exception. The dreams and fancies 
of childhood's illusions will be dissipated in the presence 
of the reality. The thrill of the expected enchantmenl will 
be missed. But we may well believe that careful observa 
tion and the reading of the charming works which have 
been written will, with the reality and 1>\ the aid ol imaginatii 



58 



Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 



by and by transcend all our expectations and repay us a 
thousand fold in the future lor the pilgrimage to this crowning 
glory of Moorish architecture. 

Like the Kremlin at Moscow, the Alhambra, we must 
remember, is an inclosure, a half mile long and an eighth of a 
mile wide, and of irregular shape. The palace itself occupies 
but a small part. The guide books carefully describe the 
various features of the place. I shall not attempt a detailed 
description here. 

The architecture of the Alhambra has been called "cob- 
web on the solid rock — a blending of solid forms borrowed 
from an earlier people, with the dainty tracery of the Arabian — 

exhausting all con- 
ceivable designs in 
its arrangement of 
graceful and com- 
plex lines. As a 
whole it is a com- 
bination of slender 
columns and Moorish 
arches, supporting 
great, overhanging 
masses ; of vaulted 
ceiling, reduplicated 
many times within 
itself in diminished form, and with pendant like stalactites, 
rich in color ; of arch and architrave, cornice and wall, 
covered with the purest of arabesque, of woven lines, of intri- 
cate pattern and infinite variety of design, all in relief and 
picked out in strongly contrasting colors, which in the original 
have stood the test of seven centuries, remaining- as bright 
to-day, and as harmonious, as the brilliant, closely-woven colors 
of a Persian shawl." 

If I can awaken attention in the minds of some to these 
various characteristics, I shall, indeed, feel myself rewarded. 

The supports in some of the rooms are concealed, so that 
the apparent supports (thin pillars and cashmere, perforated 
fabrics which seem like fairy work) appear incapable of sus- 
taining the roof. There are divans, and alcoves, and courts 
with orange trees, and gardens filled once with tropical vegeta- 




Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 



59 




The Alhambra 



tion, in the very midst of the building. Then, too, there are 
inscriptions from the Koran to be seen everywhere, such as 
" There is no conqueror but Allah.'' Note well the Court of 
Lions, with its one hundred and twenty-eight pillars of white 
marble, eleven feet high, upholding porticoes on each side ; all 
these by the aid of a little imagination will transform this curious 
place from a tumble clown building into a very palace of the 
Arabian Nights entertainment. 

If. with fertile imagination and poetic fancy, we stand in 
these old courts and halls and look up to the balconies and 
latticed windows, we may repeople the place with graceful, 
noble men, and women of exquisite beauty. We can hear in 
fancy again the splash of the cooling fountains and the soft love 
songs to the accompaniment of the guitar ; we may see again 
the delectable gardens, the flowers and foliage, the Ira-rant 
baths, the gay cavaliers, the halls and courts and colonnades 
filled with the chivalry of Moslem Moors. And darker 
pictures, too, will throng before us: for instance, in the hall oi 
the Abencerrages a gay and brilliant company will lill the place 
in response to the invitation of the wily Sultan to a sumptuous 
banquet, while a few brave and gallant cavaliers ol an illustrious 



60 Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 

line are there as guests. In the course of the feast one and 
another will be called out to some new promised entertainment 
in the Court of Lions near by and there beheaded, until the 
head of every illustrious guest is severed from his body, and 
the fountain becomes indeed a fountain filled with blood. And 
not once alone did this become a fountain of blood, but again 
in the midst of this splendor and luxury and beauty were all 
the children of Abu Haren beheaded by their own father's 
order, save one only, the unhappy Boabdil, the last Moorish 
king, who lived to regret it. As we pass into the Hall of the 
Ambassadors, in imagination, we may see the Sultan seated on 
a magnificent throne, while in the niches, in regal state, are 
placed the ambassadors from foreign courts. Open diplomacy 
is apparently being exercised, but secret intrigue and jealousy 
and suspicion are plotting secret murder, which finally builds 
its victims into dark recesses beneath this very place ; living 
tombs in which bravery and valor and love went mad and 
rotted. 

Or, as we wander through the Linda Raxa, or Pretty 
Rachael, we may see the dressing-room, in one of the towers, of 
the unhappy queen who gave the place the name through her 
imprisonment. Note the curious marble slab, pierced with 
holes, under which was placed the chamber in which the per- 
fumes were prepared for her delectation. As the odors ascended 
the queen, standing over this slab with all her rich apparel, was 
made sweetly fragrant, just as in the ancient days, Queen 
Esther, of the Bible story, was perfumed when similar means 
were used for making lovely women breathe forth the odor of 
flowers. 

But who built the Alhambra, and why? is asked. Histo- 
rians tell us that "A thousand years before Christ the Phoeni- 
cians had discovered the resources of Spain and founded Cadiz. 
Seven hundred years later the Carthagenians, their descendants, 
had subjugated a large part of the peninsula. Five hundred 
years subsequently the Vandals, after ravaging France, swept 
through the passes of the Pyrenees into Spain, where they 
settled permanently. Soon afterward the Visigoths went from 
Italy by way of Southern Gaul into Spain, and there began a 
series of struggles with the Vandals and the Romans. 



Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 



61 



In the early part of the seventh century arose in Asia the 
most terrible power that had ever appeared in modern history 
— Mohammedanism. In less than seventy-five years after the 

birth of Mohammed the; Saracens 
had overrun all the lands be- 
tween Armenia and Khiva, and 

more pos- 
of North 
Asia Minor 
nstantinople. 
ningf ot the 
entury Spain 
w a s invad- 
ed, the 
hordes 




and landing at 
Alcreciras, near Gibral 
tar. The name Alhambra 
is mentioned for the first 
time after the Moors had 
been in power in Spain for 
one hundred and fifty years. 
Its meaning- is simply a 
" Red Tower." 

Speaking of names re- 
minds one of the despairing 
frenchman, who exclaimed, "1 cannot understand ze language. 
I learn how to pronounce ze name 'hydrophobia,' and then 
I learn zat ze doctors sometimes pronounce it 'fatal.' 

The account Irving gives of the founder "I the Alhambra, 
Alhamar. is most interesting and fascinating. Bear with me 
as I try to condense a portion of the story. Ii will give a 
truer picture of the Moors than anything else I can do: 



Alhambra Gate— Lunch— Interior 



62 



Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 



"Alhamar, the Moor, was of noble birth, highly educated 
and full of warlike ambition and valor. Gaining one conquest 
after another, he became finally the ruler of the whole of Anda- 
lusia. What he was not able to gain by valor he secured by 
generosity. In Granada he established his court and displayed 
a wisdom and far-sightedness in fortifying his kingdom and 
promoting useful arts which speedily gave him wealth and real 
power. He organized a vigilant police and established rigid 
rules for the administration of justice. The poor and the dis- 
tressed always found ready admission to his presence, and he 
attended personally to their assistance and redress. He erected 








"Like a cloud of rare old yelloii) lace " 

hospitals for the blind, the aged, the infirm, and all those 
incapable of labor, and visited these places frequently in 
person. 

" He founded schools and colleges, he established butch- 
eries and public ovens, that the people might be furnished with 
wholesome provisions at just and regular prices. He intro- 
duced abundant streams of water into the city, erecting baths 
and fountains, and constructing aqueducts and canals to irrigate 
and fertilize the Vega. By these means prosperity and abund- 
ance prevailed in this beaiuiful city and its surroundings ; its 
gates were thronged with commerce, and its warehouses filled 
with luxuries and merchandise of every clime and country. 

He gave premiums and privileges to the best artisans ; 



Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 63 

improved the horses and domestic animals ; encouraged hus 
bandry, and increased the natural fertility of the soil ; fostered 
the growth and fabrication of silk, until the looms of Granada 
surpassed those of Syria in the fineness and beauty of their 
productions. He opened the mines of gold and silver," and 
all this we are surprised to learn was the work of a man way 
back in the twelve hundreds ; a Mohammedan withal ; a savage 
Moor, as we sometimes think of them. 

'■ Magnificent in his works and great in his enterprises ; 
lie was simple in his person and moderate in his enjoyments. 
1 lis dress was not merely void ot splendor, but so plain as not 
to distinguish him from his subjects. 1 lis wives were daughters 
of the principal nobles, and were treated by him as friends and 
rational companions, and what is more, he managed to make 
them live in friendship with one another. He delighted in read- 
ing histories ; employed himself in the instruction of his three 
sons, for whom he provided the most learned and virtuous 
masters. 

This was the man who began the building of the splendid 
palace of the Alhambra, superintending it in person. As I have 
read and pondered upon his history, he has reminded me in 
many particulars of that greatest and wisest king of Israel, 
Solomon. 

Says Irving: "Though Alhamar's undertakings were vast, 
yet his treasury was always full, and this seeming contradiction 
gave rise to the story that he was versed in magic art, and pos- 
sessed the secret of transmuting baser metals into gold. 

Those who have attended to his domestic policy will easily 
understand the natural magic and simple alchemy which made 
his ample treasury to overflow. 

At his death the Alhambra palace, then in progress, was 
finished by another prince of the same noble line, Yusel, bear- 
ing much the same character, elegant and refined in his taste, 
devoted to the improvement of the morals and manners ol his 
people, generous and open-minded in his diplomacy." 

It is pleasant to reflect that such an enchanting and beau 
tiful palace was the work of men of such excellent character 
and of such noble purpose. 

It any one cares to follow up the interesting story ol the 
life and work ol these earl)' Moorish rulers, I would advise 



64 



Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 




The Alhambra 



Describe it ? No, I thank you. Go to Washington Irving or D'Amicis for that. 
When you can pass through a beauliful pavilion, the roof of which is a cloud of 
rare, old, yellow lace, held by invisible supports; and only passing through, can 
picture it to me so that I can see it in all its airy splendor: then, perhaps, I will try 
in return to give you a conception of the courts and halls of the Alhambra, and tell 
you of colored 1 ice cut out of stone, or moulded from mortar. 

I had only an hour to see it, and that with a crowd around me, and the Alham- 
bra cannot be seen in tliat way. What little I did grasp made me feel that I was 
gazing upon an architectural flower, and with the possible exception of the Taj 
Mahal, the most beautiful one that this earth has ever borne upon its bosom. — G. C. S, 



Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 65 

him to read, of course, first Washington Irving's Alhambra; 
I )'Amicis, whose emotion and imagination make him so absorb- 
and misleading; the book of lord; L'rquehar's Pillars of 
Hercules; Primes' Khremlin and the Alhambra. etc.; faiiing 
these, at present, the guide books of Baedei ker, Appleton and 
Murray are really most excellent, and can be procured, no 
doubt, on the vessel or at almost any port. 

'Phis reminds me of the story ol a deaf clergyman, who 
asked his clerk to give out a notice in reference to the use of a 
new hymn-book. The clerk had a notice ol his own in regard 
to baptism he wanted to give out first. At the close of the 
sermon he rose and announced : " All those who have children. 
\vhom they wish to have baptised, will please semi their names 
at once to the clerk." The clergyman, who was deaf, assuming 
that the clerk had given out the hymn book notice, immediately 
arose and said: "And I should say, for the benefit of those who 
haven't any. that they may be obtained at the vestry, any day 
from three to tour o'clock ; the ordinary little ones at one shil- 
ling each, and the special ones, with red backs, at one shilling 
and fourpence." 

Says one, " To understand the Alhambra, it must be visited 
often and alone- ; at night, when the moon floats above it in tin- 
air like its crescent symbol, when the tender beam tips the 
filigree arches, then a depth is given to the shadows, and a 
misty, undefined magnitude to the salons beyond, then, in pro 
portion to the silence around, does the fancy and imagination 
become alive. The shadows of the cypresses on the walls 

jume the form of the dusky Moor as. dressed in his silken 
robes, he comes to lament over the profanation ol the infidel 
and the devourment of the destroyer." 

historical question remains. When did the Moors 
Spain? As you remember, the whole ol Spain had not 
\ii-cn subdued by the Moors. Various kingdoms were lormed, 
that of Castile being the most powerful. I he kingdom "I 
Aragon spread rapidly, and the Moors were finally restrict* 
Granada In [469, when Perdinand, ol Aragon, married 

tl 'll.i, 1 >ueen of Castile (their bodies, by tin ■ in 

the Cathedral at (iranada in leaden coffins, and the . m 
traveler may be led down into the very crypl itsell and to 



66 Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 

the old encasements of these two distinguished characters), I 
repeat, when Ferdinand, of Aragon, married Isabella, Queen of 
Castile, the consolidation of Spain into one empire began. 
Granada was conquered in 1492, and the Moors were expelled 
from the peninsula, the year of the discovery of America. 

We are told that Ferdinand and Isabella resided for a time 
in the Alhambra, and in one of its rooms the Queen informed 

Christopher Colum- 
_£'^dh-ax.jA^a=-db-dii.s^) |3 US that she would 

support him in his 
OECerf PrO§r&IDm enterprise. 



<l 



Dampfer ,,ALLER" 
Montag, den 14. Februar 1 

,,Erinnerung an Crefeld", Marsch 

,,Cermania-Ouvevture" 

,,Les Pantineurs", Walzer 

,,Das Grab auf der Haide", Lied 

,, Parole d'amour", Fantasie 

,,Was sich Berlin erzahlf, Potp. 



So soon as the 
Christian obtained 
control of the Al- 
hambra, however, it 
must be noted the 
work of its devasta- 
tion commenced. 
When Ferdinand and 
Isabella departed the 
monks and soldiers 
did what they could 
to destroy the place. They whitewashed the open work, 
coating some of it so thick that a pickax was required to remove 
it, and stole and destroyed and sold the furniture. Charles 
the Fifth, determining to erect a palace, tore down a part of 
the Alhambra, and began a structure which has never been 
finished. From age to age the 
building deteriorated, until 




finally it was turned into an 
asylum for debtors and state 
prisoners. When the French 
took possession in 1810, and 
again in 1812, they used it 
for barracks, destroyed every- 
thing they could, and blew 
up the Mosque, which was 
said to have had no rival in 
the world. 

They mined the entire 



ORDER FOR THE DAY 
Wednesday, February J6th — Alhambra Trip 

5 a. in. Bugle call. 5.15 First Sitting 
Breakfast. (5.45 Second Sitting). 

Land in steam launches. (Lunch and 
dinner from ship). 7.15 sharp, train leaves 
Landing Stage. 

Bobadilla, 10.2. Coffee or tea and plate, 
etc., furnished and passengers can eat part of 
their lunch here. 

2.21 Granada. Drive up to Alhambra; 
then eat (ship's) dinner at Hotel Washington 
Irving, which is in the Alhambra grounds ; 
coffee, tea, plate, knife, fork, etc., furnished at 
the Hotel, also 4 rooms for ladies and gentle- 
men to wash in. 

12.33 midnight Malaga, and embark. 

F. C. Clark. 



Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra b7 

structure, and would have annihilated the last vestige of its 
grandeur it a corporal had not put out the fuses. After the 
conquest it was offered to the Duke of Wellington, but he 
preferred another place, which is still owned by his descend 
ants i a 4000 acre farm given to him as a token of gratitude by 
the Spanish Government, and from which farm a revenue of 
^20,000 is now received by his descendants). It was not until 
1842 that the repairs and restorations of the Alhambra beiran, 
but these have since been carried forward with success. 

Alas, that it should be said of the Christians that they 
sought in every way to obliterate all traces of the infidel reli 
gion through their lack of appreciation of the elegance of the 
'architecture, and their inability to understand the refinement 




The Court of the Lions 



and delicate taste ot the so-called heathen Moor who produced 
it, and so history writes them down as guilty in their stupidity 
ot inexcusable vandalism. 

ro-day we may see in reality and in restoration much ot 
this noble palace crowning a beautiful hill. ,1- striking as the 
Acropolis at Athen ;, 

[Earthquakes have shaken the foundations and rent tin- 
towers, yet in the Court ol Lions still remain the traces ol 
Moorish elegance and splendor, and almost the original bril 
liancy ol coloring. Not. a slender column has been disp 
not an arch ot that light and fragile colonnade ha 
and all the (airy fretwork ol the domes, .1 . unsubstantial as the 



68 



Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 



crystal fabrics of a morning's frost, exist after the lapse of cen- 
turies, almost as fresh as if from the hand of the Moslem artist, 
for us moderns to admire and to imitate. 

I have lingered too long already over this fascinating struc- 
ture. Once the whole was a dream of beauty, a delectable 
palace, as veritable a paradise as ever the head of man devised 
or the heart of man desired. 

The scenes of gayety have vanished, much of its loveliness 
has departed, yet believe me, it will be one of the joys of your 
life that you have seen the place. As you read its legends and 
live in its romances, and study its traditions, it will stand out as 
one of the most delightful and refining memories of your life. 




Malaga from the Citadel 



An Experience at Malaga 
"When we arrived at Malaga most of us were anxious to 
utilize the short time we had to stay there in seeing as much as 
possible. After wandering through the streets until it was quite 
dark, a clerical member of the party I was with suggested that 
we try to get into the Cathedral, knowing little of and caring less, 
for the unwritten law that guards these sacred places from the 
heretical footsteps of the average American tourist, except dur- 
ing the regular hours. One of a crowd of gamins, who had 
followed us around and who understood and spoke a little Eng- 
lish, hearing our conversation, volunteered to guide us there. 
Off we started, quite a large party. The little fellow taking us 
through some very dark and narrow streets, distrust was felt 
by a number of the crowd, and it began to grow less, the 
deserters making for the wide and well-lighted street, that could 



Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 69 

be seen in the distance. When we reached the main entrance 
to the Cathedral, it was locked, out a vigorous knocking by our 
little guide brought a custodian to the door who, after looking at 
us, refused us admission and shut the door in our faces. The boy 
then told us there were other entrances and that he would try 
them before giving up. Along more dark streets we were 
piloted, the company getting smaller as the road got uninviting. 
Soon another entrance was reached with the same result, only 
more so. " Come on," said the boy, " I will take you to the other 
side," diving into another dark alley. The party had now dwin- 
dled to about half a dozen, among whom were Mr. Albert Fox 
and wife, of Washington. As the way became more dismal 
'this gentleman stopped, saying ; " You can't get this Fox into 



eRoleE ^^ct^hi nciion elruina. 



r 



'Isa/e Jbol it n -lelvicic de cafe o ie. 



<Vood fol one \0uf> of (oof fee cl tea. 



that hole, I shall go back ;" and so did all, except the writer and 
his clerical friend. We were determined to see the inside; of 
that church if it were possible. Another door was soon reached 
and a summons to open given this time successfully. We were 
admitted into a small chapel lighted by a lamp that only cast 
dim and ghostlike shadows all about us. We were led from 
this place into the nave of the Cathedral which was totally dark. 
Thoughts of the Inquisition of old came into our minds, when 
suddenly there was a Hash and the whole beautiful interior was 
bathed in light. Think of it, there in Spain, backward as she is 
in adopting most of the improvements of the day, a plate ol 
worship, ancient as this building, lighted by electricity. Rows 
of white (luted columns, forming a beautiful vista from when 
we stood, supported the roof. Altars decorated with costly 



70 



Gibraltar, Malaga, Alhambra 



paintings and fine statuary were seen on all sides, it was, indeed, 
like the beautiful " Fabric of a vision" that broke upon us. 
Our perseverance was well rewarded by the sight. When we 
turned to leave the church we found ourselves surrounded by a 
curious crowd. Nuns, cripples, children and custodians ; where 
they all came from so quickly was marvelous, with outstretched 
hands they all united in one cry, " Pedir por Dios " ? and we 
thought it best to contribute liberally, as we were a good ways 
from home and in hostile keeping." — A. J. Smith. 



SPECIAL TRAIN 
Granada to Malaga Direct 



Distances 

(in 

kilometers 

from 

Granada 



STATIONS 



Time=table of 



Arrivals 



Stoppages Departures 



9 

15 

25 

35 

44 

52 

54 

62 

74 

88 

99 

107 

123 

136 

143 

155 

163 

175 

LSI 

193 



GRANADA 

Atarfe . . . 
Finos . . . 
Illora . . . 



Huetor 

Loja 

San Francisco 

Riofrio 

Salinas 

Archidona 

La Pena . 

Antequera 

BOBADILLA (Restaurant) 

Gobantes 

Chorro 

Alora 

Pizarra 

Cartama 

Campanillas ...... 



IALAGA (at Station) 
(" Docks) 



6.43 P. 
6.52 

7. 8 
7.22 
7.40 
7.52 

8. 6 
8.23 
8.57 
9.34 
9.50 

10. 2 

10.26 

10.59 

11.12 

11.39 

11.50 

12. 6 A 

12.18 

12.33 

12.48 A 



4 niin. 
10 " 

12 " 

15 " 
10 " 



6.30 
6.43 
6.52 

7. 8 
7.26 
7.40 

8. 2 

8. 6 
8.23 

9. 9 
9.34 
9.50 

10. 2 
10.41 
10.59 
11.22 
11.39 
11.50 
12. 6 
12.18 



P. M. 



ALGIERS 
Pennsylvania Day 




French Front 



ALGERIA 



Bibliography 

BRANDT, Dr. G. H. Hamman r'irha, Algiers. Health Resort and Winter Cure. 
London (H. I\. Lewis). 

ISknm n, J. II. Winter on Shores of Mediterranean, pp. 441. 

BRIDGMAN, F. A. Winters in Algeria. Illustrated. N. Y. (Harper). 

Cox, S. S. In Search for Winter Sun. pp. 118. 

HaRKIS, G. W. Practical Guide to Algiers. London. 

Knox, A. The New Playground; or, Wanderings in Algeria. London. A clearly 
written book of travel. 

Mathew, W. Flora of Algeria in Relation to Mediterranean Region. London. 

Murray. Handbook to Algeria and Tunis. Maps and plates, 

Pool-, S. Lam:. The Barbary Corsairs. Maps and Illustrations. (Story of tin- 
Nation's Series.) N. Y. (Putnam.) Account of Moors who after fall of 
Granada (1492) settled in Algeria, Tunis, Oran and other places in North 
Africa and their subsequent history, until they became a " scourge of Christen- 
dom " ; their final suppression, etc.) 

People of Algiers. (F. C. W. Basbour.) Chaut. vol. 10, p 

Scenes in Algiers. (R. H. Titherington.) Munsey. vol. 7, p. 105. 




74 Algiers : Pennsylvania Day 

Algiers 
"Algiers has been noted in history as the land of pirates. 
It is built on an elevation of one thousand feet or more sloping 
to the sea. The pirates were, therefore, favorably located to 
see seaward and could scan the water for merchantmen with 
their trained eyes for perhaps sixty or eighty miles. Less than 
one hundred years ago Algiers was the terror of the civilized 
world. Spain, Holland, Venice, Denmark, Portugal, Naples, 

all had to buy peace from the Algerian 
pirates. The United States in 1795 
bought peace for $72 1,000 and promised 
an annual tribute of $22,000 if her ves- 
sels might go unmolested. In 181 2, 
or thereabouts, the Algerian pirates 
declared war on the United States and 
began to capture vessels and to refuse 
money, saying that American slaves 
were beyond price. Captains Decatur 
and Bainbridge demanded and secured satisfaction. In 181 7 
Great Britain compelled the pirates to abolish Christian slavery. 
Their piracy, however, was not ended until they were con- 
quered by the French. As we landed, Moors were everywhere 
visible in their curious costumes and oriental appearance, and 
they looked to our eyes capable of piracy of all degrees. It 
does not surprise me that Dido guarded her territory with 
care. The old Numidians we believe needed watching-. Union 
with /Eneas would certainly have brought added protection 
from surrounding thieves and desperadoes." — Parke. 

The Mosques ; the Jardin des Plantes, with 
its wonderful variety of plants and trees and 
flowers ; the old Arab town on the steep hillside, 
with its streets only five or six feet wide and so 
crooked that no carriage can pass through them, 
connected by little alleys less than two feet wide, 
the roofs leaning towards each other, sometimes 
leaving not more than a foot for the sunlight to 
enter ; the Governor's palace ; the French Cathe- 
dral ; the curious costumes of the 
men and women ; the Museum ; all 
are interesting and attractive and 




Algiers : Pennsylvania Day 75 

should be seen. "In the Museum is shown the body of an 
Arab named Geronimo who accepted Christianity at the age 
of 25 years, having been baptized as an infant. Being captured 
four years after his formal acceptance of Christianity and 
refusing to recant, while yet alive his feet and hands were bound 
with cords and he was covered with fresh concrete which was 
being made into a block for a building. The block thus formed 
was built into an angle of the wall of a fortress. The place 
was carefully recorded, and in 1853, 300 years afterward, it 
was necessary to destroy the fort and in the very spot the 
skeleton was found enclosed in the 
block. The bones were interred in 
the Cathedral. Liquid plaster of 
Paris was run into the cavity and a 
model obtained showing the very 
features of the Christian martyr and 
the marks of the cords that bound him. 




A terrible glimpse of Mos- 
lem persecution and Christian 
fortitude." 

"Algiers, February 19, 1898. 

We spent all day yesterday viewing the sights of Algiers, 
the sprightly capital of the French province ot Algeria. 

We cannot hope to find in our pilgrimage a more pictur- 
esque and attractive city than this famous winter resort ot the 
Mediterranean. The province of Algeria has now been held 
by France since 1830, and Algiers is to all intents and purposes 
a French city — the streets all bearing French names, and the 
business of the town being conducted by the French, or under 
their auspices, 



76 



Algiers : Pennsylvania Day 



Algeria is one of the five Barbary States, the other four 
being Morocco, Tunis, Tripoli and Barca. 

Our ride in the suburbs of the city yesterday carried us by 
some beautiful white villas that were formerly the homes of 
the Pirate Kings of Algiers. It is of record that at one time 
as many as twenty thousand captive Christians were compelled 
to work upon the fortifications of Algiers by their Moorish cap- 



tors. It was a happy 
it came under the 
As one is reminded 
power of England, so 
Algiers of the won- 
satility of the French, 
date people, and the 
giers and the Spanish 
was very marked, 
dominated by the 
a large Arab popu- 




day for Algeria when 
control of France, 
at Gibraltar of the 
one is reminded at 
derful energy and ver- 
They are an up-to- 
contrast between Al- 
towns we have seen 
Although the town is 
French, there is still 
lation. I judge the 



terms Arab and Moor are frequently used interchangeably, and 
I find it difficult to draw the line between them. The term 
Moor originally belonged to the natives of Morocco, while 
Arabs are put. down as children of the desert ; but they look 
alike, dress alike, and are all Mohammedans. We had our 
first glimpse, at Algiers, of the Arab women who veil the faces 
from the eyes down when they appear on the streets. I am 
frank to say that, so far as the writer is concerned, they are wel- 
come to continue to veil their faces, if those we saw at Algiers 
are representative of Arab women generally. The chief char- 
acteristic of Arab dress, for men, seems to be a heavy head- 
covering, coupled with no covering at all from the legs down, 
and frequently no covering for the feet. 

After a visit and inspection of the Arab quarters of the 
city, we are prepared to endorse the statement that they live like 
dogs. They are said to live largely on beans and black bread, 
and sleep on mats in the burnooses they 
wear during the day. Their wraps are more 
or less elaborate, some being very scanty and 

J others many folded, but very few showed any 

approach to cleanliness. I think the lowest 
types of humanity I have ever seen consisted 



m 




Algiers : Pennsylvania Day 



77 



of a group of Arabs who came near the Aller for the purpose 
of coalincr an English ship that lay very near us. In addition 
to being naturally dark in color, they were also black with dirt. 
Their clothing seemed little better than gunny-sacks. 

Algiers is widely advertised as a most desirable resort for 
consumptives, and 1 judge with good reason. The weather 
when we were there (February 18th) was about like our fune, 
so lhat when our carriage stopped in our drive we found it 
desirable to rest in a shady place. Our eyes were delighted 
with the sight of a great variety of beautiful flowers and shrub- 
bery, some vari- 
eties of which we 
had never seen 
before. From 
our observation, 
it is now becom- 
ing quite the 
thing for those 
who are spend- 
ing considerable 
time abroad to 
spend the sum- 
mer at Paris or 
some other Eu- 
ropean capital or 
resort, and the 
winter in Algiers. 

Students of history will recall that under Moslem rule 
Algeria was continually at war with Christian countries. Our 
own country sent a fleet to punish the Algerians for depreda- 
tions on our commerce, and on [une 20, 1815, a victory was 
gained by our fleet, which compelled the l)ey to acknowledge 
that the American flag meant something In 1830. on account 
of the destruction of a French ship and the murder of a French 
Consul, the French Government sent a large naval and land 
force and captured the City of Algiers, and have held the 
country since that time, in spite of frequenl outbreaks. It is 
said that the occupation of Algeria has cost die French ( \o\ 
ernment the lives of 150,000 men and about s'>oo,ooo,ooo in 
money. 




cAround the Garden of Plants 



78 



Algiers: Pennsylvania Day 



The Arab beggars of Algiers are the most persistent we 
have met with. Their well-defined policy is to tire their victims 
out. One ghostly old Arab woman marked me for her prey, 
and although she was lame she kept right up with the proces- 
sion until I was compelled to buy her off. The Arab children 
are equally persistent, though much more attractive than their 
elders. Many of them have bright, laughing faces, but are 
born beggars, nevertheless." — Archbold. 




Ghosts and AllerUes 

Sea Forms neither Strange nor Curious 
This is a "go as you please" party, and, while introduc- 
tions are frequent, no one seems to wait long for an introduc- 
tion, but proceeds to express his views and ask for what he 
wants without much ceremony. People who a short day or two 
ago would have given fortunes to be at home are beginning to 
look like pleasure seekers instead of invalids. Still, smelling- 
salts and bottled electricity are prominent, and occasionally one 
looks over the railing into deep water for whales. Some say 
they have enjoyed every minute, while others claim that there 
are minutes that they would as soon forget. 

It is curious how one makes friends on shipboard, all stiff- 
ness vanishes as if by magic. Perhaps, the unsteadiness of the 
vessel and the go-as-you-please of the sea takes possession of 
body and mind and dissipates social restraint. Whatever the 
cause it is very pleasant to exchange views with your neighbor 
on the least provocation and without an introduction. 



Algiers : Pennsylvania Day 



79 



Pennsylvania Day 
Introductions by Gen'l Craft 

Ladies and gentlemen of the "Aller" cruise ; fellow citizens and 
citizenesses of Pennsylvania : 

We are o-athered here this ^(J^^^a^i^(F^Q : ^cr^Q^i7^Q^cr^Q^(F^^^a^Q^Q 

afternoon upon the high seas in ,? 

convention assembled, not as ^ 

representatives of Dave Mar- J c Da.mpfer „aller", den 18. Feb™ 

tin, Mat. Quay, Chris. Magee v 

or Billy Flynn or of any set of ^ 

politicians or any other factional & 

interest, but as quiet, peaceful ? 
private citizens of a grand, live, 



nnnci 



MITTACESSEN 



patriotic and glorious common- 1 

wealth, citizens, ever ready to {?' 

respond to the call of our coun- ^ 

try and to the bugle of the little jk 

Cerman band at meal time. (? 

We bid you all hearty wel- ^ 

come to join with us in our jk 

festivities, and to listen to a few (? 

remarks from representative D 
Pennsylvanians, who will now 



3 
address you. I have the pleas- P 

ure of introducing Col. A. F. ^ 

Seltzer, of Lebanon. 



Fleischbriihe a la Douglas 

Weissfisch, Sauce a la franchise, zerl. Butler 

Rehbraten, TriilTel-Sauce 

Grenadins, Blumenkohl 

Vol-au-vent a la Durham 

Capaunenbraten 

Reineclaudes Endivien-Salat 

Eis a la napolitaine Backwerk 

Frucht Nacbtisch 

CafTee 

DINNER 

Consomme a la Douglas 

White-fish, sauce a la framjaise, melted butter 

Loin of roe-venison, truffle-sauce 

Grenadins, cauliflower 

Vol-au-vent a la Durham 

Roast-capon 

Green gages Chicory-salad 

Ice-cream a la napolitaine Pastry 

Fruit Dessert 

Coffee 



t 



} 

i 
it 

t 
t 



t 



Mr. Chairman, Ladies and Gentlemen : 

There is a belt of earth encircling the globe in which the 
highest type of man is found, and that is the North Temperate 
zone. In the centre of that zone is the State of Pennsylvania, 
and in the centre of that State is the Lebanon Valley — I am 
from the Lebanon Valley, the garden spot of the world. This 
being " Pennsylvania Day ", it is meet and proper that Penn- 
sylvanians celebrate the day in a becoming manner. ( >ur 
State is known as the Keystone State, and properly so, being 
the keystone of the Federal arch. Here the tocsin of liberty 
was first sounded, and it reverberated throughout the world, 
calling on men everywhere to throw oil the yoke ol tyranny 



80 



Algiers : Pennsylvania Day 



and oppression. Here the old Liberty Bell remains enshrined 
in the building; which gave birth to the immortal Declaration of 
Independence, and is to-day an object of great interest and 
inspiration to every lover of freedom. 

Go with me on a hurried tour through this great State, 
with its fine, fertile farm fields ; its majestic mountains, " rock- 
ribbed and ancient as the sun " and rich in mineral wealth ; its 
picturesque scenery, broad rivers and numberless busy indus- 
tries, mills, shops, factories and furnaces, giving employment 
to many thousands and making glad the hearts of numerous 
homes. 




A Street in Algiers 

We will stop a moment in Lancaster County, which 
adjoins my own county, an empire in itself, with its tobacco 
industry aggregating millions of dollars annually ; its large 
farms, the best in the world, of which the very barns are 
palaces, where peace and plenty greet one on every hand. 
Take the train and accompany me to Schuylkill County, which 
adjoins my county on the north, and there we find stored away 
in the bowels of its huge mountains, deposits of coal sufficient 
to warm the hearths and homes of the whole world. Now 
board the train and speed along with me to the oil fields of the 
northwest, where enough oil abounds to light up the dark 
places of earth and illumine our homes on long winter evenings 



Algiers: Pennsylvania Day 81 

for thousands oi years to come. We hurry onward to the 
•Smoky City" — Pittsburg- where natural gas is the illumi- 
nant, lighting up the city and furnishing power for iis mills and 
manufacturing establishments. Now come with me on my 
homeward journey, rolling acr<>-^ ihe Alleghenies, "high up 
among the sons of frosty thunder", where we behold some of 
the most magnificent scenery in the world as we speed along 
our course on the foremost railroad in the L'nited States. We 
at last reach dear old 1. el. anon County, my home. Here we 
find mountains that are almost solid masses of iron ore of the 
best quality, around which spiralizes a railroad. Ihe ore is 
loaded into cars and carried to furnaces, where it is transformed 




into all kinds oi iron, giving employment to thousands oi work 
men. who live in comfortable cottages, the dour-, and windows 
ot which are festooned with vines and Mowers, kissed by the 
sunlight of heaven. The children of these workmen attend the 
schools week-days and reci i a liberal education, while on 
Sundays they go to Sunday school and church and are taught 
the way that leads to a better life. 

In this age of the world we manufacture iron into almost 

everything, from the ^reat revolving wheels ot die Corliss 

engine, which gave life and motion to tin machiin 

Machinery Mall at our ;< ii I entennial in Philadelphia in 

down to die little mam ipring in the wat< h dial li> 1. • "II 



82 Algiers: Pennsylvania Day 

the golden moments as they drop from time into eternity ; and 
from the locomotive engine, careering through our great and 
glorious country, knitted with bands of iron, down to the 
minutest needle in the sewino- machine, that eases the labor of 
some poor sewing girl. 

In educational matters, Pennsylvania stands foremost, for 
here the common school system was first established. Gover- 
nor Wolf, Thaddeus Stevens, the great Commoner, and other 
Pennsylvanians, laid the foundation of a school system that has 
become universal in our country, so that now every child in it 
has the privilege of obtaining a thorough education. 

The throbbing of the machinery and the puffing of the 
engines of our magnificent steamship, as we ride gracefully and 
easily on the billows of this great sea, permitting us to travel 
in comfort as we journey towards the land of the Nile, reminds 
me of the fact that the first man who invented the steamboat, 
thereby making it possible for us to enjoy this luxury, was 
Robert Fulton, a Pennsylvanian, who deserves and receives the 
thanks of every traveler on the ocean. 

Among the Generals who won renown on the field of battle 
are the superb Hancock ; Meade, the hero of Gettysburg ; 
Reynolds, who mingled his blood with others, and gave Gettys- 
burg a name far greater than that of Waterloo ; and many more, 
all Pennsylvanians. 

But why continue longer? In peace and in war ; on land 
and on sea ; in the arts and in the sciences ; in scholarship and 
in statecraft ; in law, medicine and theology ; in mechanics, in- 
ventions and agriculture, in superb manhood and womanhood, 
Pennsylvanians have their names inscribed high up on the honor 
roll of the world. 

In the sisterhood of States comprising this Union — the 
best, greatest, most powerful nation in the world — Pennsylvania 
stands pre-eminent. 

Kings wear crowns, despots sway sceptres, millionaires 
revel in wealth, but only those who were born as freemen under 
the Stars and Stripes and have imbibed the principles of Virtue, 
Liberty and Independence, can hold up their heads wherever 
they may be and say : " I am an American !" 

It affords me unbounded gratification, and my heart pulses 
with pride, ladies and gentlemen, as I stand before you and am 
privileged to declare that we, all of us, are children of this great 
Republic. 



Algiers : Pennsylvania Day 



83 




Typical " Kee-sto-ann " Natives 

These facts were also circulated on a type-written sheet on 
Pennsylvania Day ; 

Philadelphia, the chief city of Pennsylvania, the "city of 
homes.*' is a manufacturing and commercial community of 
nearly 2,000,000 inhabitants, located on the river Delaware, one 
hundred miles from the ocean, having nearly forty miles of 
wharfage for berth of the largest and deepest vessels. Out of 
250,000 buildings of all kinds, nearly 200,000 are homes, to 
which 9000 are added annually. Four hundred and forty-five 
public schools are maintained. The City Hall, costing $16,- 
000,000, is the largest municipal building in the world. Fair- 
mount Park is the largest and most beautiful in America, 3000 
acres. Philadelphia's Bourse cost $2,000,000. The city has the 
smallest death rate, largest average family, best market terri- 
tory and system, most historic places, and largest terminal 
railroad stations in the world. There are 600 churches ol all 
denominations. She leads the continent in dental, medical and 
pharmaceutical education, industrial art and the manufacture of 
ships, locomotives, woolens and carpets. The tax rate is low, 
here also are the cheapest water, living and rent. A belt line 
joins the railroad system of the whole country. There is an 
abundant supply of skilled and unskilled labor and the 
cheapest and best fuels. 

Philadelphia made,- the first American llag, 2 $9 Arch Street. 
Struck the first American coin, 29 North Seventh street. 



84 Algiers: Pennsylvania Day 

Had the first organized volunteer fire company ; the first 
law school ; made the first American piano, and the first type- 
foundry in America still flourishes here. 

Franklin gave America its first public library here and 
carried on his electrical experiments and put the first lightning- 
rod on his house at the southeast corner of Second and Race. 

The first American paper mill was on Wissahickon Creek 
and we seem to have had a steamboat in service seventeen years 
before Fulton's. 

Philadelphia had the first American bank, and the Bank of 
England was built on the experience of an American institution. 

Philadelphia sent the first American Arctic expedition. 

Philadelphia has the largest families of any great city ; the 
most individual dwelling-houses. The biggest Zoological Gar- 
den in the country. 

The finest and most centrally located railroad stations in 
the world ; makes one-tenth of America's manufactured products. 
Has the lamest American retail store — in acres and trade. 

o 

Nearly eighteen acres in this store alone ; six acres of ware- 
houses besides. Over five thousand (5000) employees at the 
busiest time of the year. 

Fifty places of great interest are to be visited in Philadel- 
phia ; but, if time presses, see these, at least : 

Independence Hall, now restored. Carpenter's Hall. 
Old Christ Church, where Washington and Lafayette worshiped. 
The Wanamaker Store. The Mint, next door, and City Hall. 
City Hall tower is 547 ft. 3^ in. high — the loftiest structure in the 
world, except Washington Monument, which is less than three 
feet higher. Nearly twice as high as the Capitol dome at Wash- 
ington ; 67 feet higher than the great Pyramid, and 99 ft. higher 
than St. Peter's, at Rome. Contains a clock with four faces, 
each 20 ft. in diameter. A $7 ft- statue of William Penn sur- 
mounts the tower. He wears a hat 23 ft. in circumference, his 
nose is 13 inches long, his mouth 14 inches wide, his hair 4 
ft. long ; his arms are 12 ft. 6 in. long, his cuffs on his coat are 
3 ft. long, his fingers are 2 ft. 6 in. long, his feet are 22 in. wide 
and 5 ft. 4 in. long. 



Algiers: Pennsylvania Day 85 

Address by Major Reinhold 

.]//-. Chairman and Fellow-Pennsylvanians of llic "Aller" cruise*: 

Literally and metaphorically I am all at sea. I am in this 
conspicuous predicament only because, like an obedient son 
of the Keystone State, I respond when called by those for the 
time being in authority, though I confess that I am not a suffi- 
ciently good guesser to find a reason why I should be called to 
fill a place where eloquence and wit are not only demanded but 
are conspicuously present. 

If you, Mr. Chairman, looked for the typical "Pennsylvania 
Dutchman", I must insist that I am not the best specimen of the 
genus that the Aller carries on the bosom of this blue sea; 
my " Dutch" lacks the guileless sweetness and original flavor 
of others on whom you might with much propriety have called. 
There is, for instance, the gentleman who asked me at the early 
dawn of that matchless morning when we entered the harbor of 
Algiers : " Mr. Reinhold, ware is dis ? Some say it is Alcheers 
and oders say it is Afreecay." While his geography may be a 
trifle off the perpendicular his Dutch would not for a moment 
be questioned. 

However the wisdom of your choice may be questioned, I 
will not waver in loyalty to the dear old top of the arch ; her 
historic renown and material greatness have already been empha- 
sized in eloquent phrase by Col. Seltzer, but even he did not 
rise to the level of the truth. He told you that in the garden- 
spot where he hails from land is worth two hundred dollars an 
acre ; why, in the great county of Schuylkill, where we dig the 
black diamonds out of the hills land is worth fifty thousand 
dollars an acre, and you will find none tor sale. Our hills are 
full of coal ; our wells bubble oil : our valleys smile with wheat, 
and our mountains distil health. Pennsylvania has the one 
pre-eminently historic battlefield of our great war, and on her 
soil was fought, one hundred and twenty years ago. the <>nl\ 
battle that is still troin<^ on, — the Battle of Brandvwine. Pray 
tor final victory and keep your eye on Pennsylvania. 

We are a cosmopolitan State ; in addition to the already 
mentioned Pennsylvania Dutchman, we have the witty Irishman 
to assist in running the politics, the Scotch Irish ol the ( umber 
land Valley to furnish a bit of philosophy : the Moravians from 



86 



Algiers : Pennsylvania Day 




cMore Pennsyl'vanians. "There are others " 



Bohemia and the English Quaker that have made us great as a 
peaceable and moral people. All these and many more are 
with us and it is not an unusual thing to hear six languages in 
walking as many blocks in some of our Pennsylvania towns. I 
recall a Welshman in my town who claims that Welsh was the 
original tongue of the garden, and that Adam's name was 
Adam Jones. 

We are a State of big things — big rivers, high mountains, 
large cities, and this is the day we brag about them. Even in 
our politics we have a " Boss" in Pennsylvania, by whose side 
all the bosses, big and little, of other States are but bosslets. 

But as I have nothing to say I must cease saying it. When 
I asked our patient chairman what he wished me specially to 
talk about he said, "Nothing in particular, tell them some 
jokes." Now, this is the reason I did not comply : — 

I'm a wretched and sea-sick man, 

Who is found in a nervous plight, 
My mind is devised on a plan 

That I can hardly concede to be right ; 
For I'm full, I'm sorry to state, 

Of jokes that I think of too late. 



MALTA 
Washington's Birthday 



MALTA 

Bibliography 
BALLOU. Story of Malta. 

Seddall, Rev. II. Malta, Past and Present. London. 
Knight of St. John. (Siege of Malta in 1565.) Anna Maria Porter. 
A Trip to Malta and Back. Living Age. Vol. 210, p. 813. 
Island of Malta. F. C. Session. Magazine. West History. Vol. 13, p. [99. 



A Lecture delivered on shipboard 

The Island of Malta, though appearing on the map of the 
world as a mere speck, is nevertheless a pivotal location about 
which vast interests revolve. Her loyal inhabitants call it "the 
flower of the world", and others speak of it as " the Oueen ol 
the Mediterranean". 

Really this shadeless island in the middle of the sea is the 
stronp-est link in the chain which connects Great Britain with her 
possessions in the east. Look at its surroundings. Westward 
a thousand miles, guarding the entrance, are the Straits of 
Gibraltar with their mighty fortress ; to the north is the /Egean 
Sea with either shore full of historic interest. Think of Athens 
where Socrates, Plato, Aristotle, Demosthenes, Herodotus and 
Xenophon " wrote or chiseled or taught or thundered or sung", 
and where a Paul, greater than they, preached with most won- 
drous power on Mars' Hill. And just across that sea is the 
sacred ground of the seven churches of Asia, and a little farther 
to the north you reach Constantinople and the Black Sea, while 
to our left and not far distant is the " Land'' made sacred by 
the feet of the Prince of Peace, and beyond that the Euphrates 
and then farther east and nearer still as we look southward is 
the "Land of the Pharaohs". 

Commanding, therefore, is 
this little island which measures 
only 17 miles in length with a 
breadth of 9 miles and an area 
of about 1 15 square miles. I 
am thus reminded of what the 
Californian said, "God made 
the I nited States of America, 
took especial pains with Cali- 
fornia and threw into Arizona 
what he had left." But when 
knowing ol the rich mines of 



ORDER FOR THE DAY 
Tuesday, February 22nd, Malta 

Arrive 8 a. 111., leave 3 p. m. Meals on 
board at regular hours. 30 boats with white 
flags with red cross are at disposal of passen- 
gers, also 10 guides. 

Land after breakfast in small boats and 
walk up to the cathedral, fortifications, ct- . . 
(carriages are not necessary ; iimi.i! price is ; 
shillings (72 cents) per hour). 

Notice. 8.45 p. m. Washington's birth- 
day 1 elebration in f"i ward iloon pro 1 imme 
follows, and will be posted in the starboard 
gangway^ under tin- lee < oal si uppi 

I he lei ture on 1 phesus by Rev. Dr. 1 
, d( ferred to Wednesda) . 8. i=, p. m. 



1 . 1 . l I \KK. 



90 



Malta: Washington's Birthday- 



Arizona we may say, " not so poor after all." And so also 
Malta, like a solitaire set in a crown of gold, the God of nations 
has placed within this fair sea whose coast lines are beautiful 
with both nature and art. 

Over these waters too, cruisers have for centuries made 
their way ; some with good intent, but others with evil. It has 
been and is yet a highway of nations, and Malta itself is known 
to have been the vassal of ten different nationalities. As to 
the character of these various dynasties one can only conjecture, 
because there are no records extant by which to certainly deter- 
mine. A few half ruined monuments, a series of rock tombs, 
the debris of mouldering temples or a nearly obliterated under- 
ground city " rich with the spoils of time " furnish data or facts 
for significant suggestion, as to the centuries of time and the 
character of the people. It is well understood, however, 
that the Maltese constitute a race by themselves and that they 
maintain a racial pride. Their origin is mixed and their language 
Arabic and Italian. 

As far back as three thousand years ago they occupied an 
important place in the records of history, during which period 
the island has ever been associated with heroic names and 
startling events, playing a prominent and even tragical part in 
the drama of the past. Therefore, like one sitting down to a 
banquet with the choicest viands before him and he at a loss 
where to begin to appease his craving appetite, so I find myself 
hesitating as to what to select. 

With this gem of the sea there are asso- 
ciated somewhat of fable and more of romance, 
I therefore fear the danger of overdrawing the 
picture, lest I make you think that Malta is 
about the only place in the world, a 
kind of heavenly resort, and, as a 
result, have some of our goodly 
company unduly impressed, not 
caring to go any farther on this 
pilgrimage, like the woman whose 
minister, at one time having had a 
pastorate in Jamestown, New 
York, was ever, to the dis- 
pleasure of his people, telling 




SMalta 



Malta : Washington's Birthday 91 

them how they did things there. This mother in Israel thought 
she would give the minister a gentle hint, and did it after this 
fashion when relating her Christian experience at a prayer 
meeting : " The Lord has been very good to me, though I have 
had some very sore trials. He has ever been my helper, and my 
joys have been greater than my sorrows, and I hope some time 
to reach heaven ; anyhow, I hope to get as far as Jamestown." 

From its position and, also, from the enormous strength of 
its fortifications, Malta is a possession of great value to any 
commercial nation, and its main harbor is considered one of 
the best in all the world. 

As we approach we will find a group of islands consisting 
of Malta and Gozo, and between them the small island of 
Comino, and off from this last the still smaller islet of Cominetto 
lifts its rocky crest, while elsewhere around the shores a few 
rocks deck the sea, each sustaining a few fishermen and afford- 
ino- herbage for ooats on their moss-crrown summits, and among 
these is Filfola with a venerable church. Fungus rock also 
may be seen where grow the far-famed "fungi melitenses." 

The whole group forms a compact little realm celebrated 
in history, with Valletta as the magnificent capital. 

In physical formation this group is comparatively low. Its 
highest point is not more than 590 feet above the sea level ; 
and so thin was the original soil, being only a rock)' surface, 
that earth was transported from neighboring Sicily, thereby 
making the island ordinarily productive, though once known as 
•• a treeless island." 

You will find there the aloe, orange and olive ; also grapes, 
melons, figs, peaches, apples and pears. 

Though not equal to the Island of Rhodes, which, under 
the Knights of St. John, became a very flower garden, still 
(lowers bloom in Malta, and it is famed for its beautiful roses. 
The earliest inhabitants, so far as known, were Phoenicians 
(1400 B. C), from whom we have several important inscnp 
tions, which speak of them and their temples. Several curious 
images, believed to belong to their worship, and many speci- 
mens of their pottery and glass, chiefly found in tombs, have 
been discovered ; also sepulchral caves and (lusters ol rock 
hewn tombs, among them the catacombs of the Mameluke 



. • 



92 Malta: Washington's Birthday 

The most remarkable remains are three rough stone erec- 
tions — one in Gozo, the other two in Malta, about two and 
one-half miles distant from each other — which mainly con- 
sist of several arched chambers side by side, the walls of which 
are built of enormous horizontal and upright stones. 

Their history, if read at all, must be read in stone, and 
from the best intelligence they are thought to be Phoenician 
temples. But though Malta's complete history we have not 
time to trace, it is well to know that it has been for these 
many years a pivotal location, about which great interests 
revolve, and since the treaty of Paris in 1814 has been num- 
bered among the British possessions. 

In our hasty glance at important events, it is well to note 
that here was born Hannibal, the celebrated Carthagenian 

general ; also Menander, 
the celebrated orator. 
Here, too, we're born 
A u 1 u s L i c i n i u s , whom 
Cicero styled the Aristotle 
of Malta, and Iodotus, the 
philosopher and intimate 
friend of Cicero. Thus we 
on the way to cuta -Vecchta discover that " the sons of 

Malta " were representative men of Rome nearly 2000 years 
ago. We will want to visit the fortifications surrounding 
Valletta, where may be had a commanding view of land and sea, 
having in sight the two celebrated harbors of Valletta, with 
their numerous ships and stately warehouses ; also the broad 
sea stretching far away to the horizon. Then looking inland, 
we will see an undulating country, which is sparsely settled, 
with here and there a small village dominated by its quaint 
stone church. To the westward seven and one-half miles, upon 
a prominent elevation, Citta Vecchia breaks the horizon (called 
the Old City, to distinguish it from Valletta, the modern capital). 
It was founded many centuries before the Christian era, 
probably 1804 B. C. At the entrance is a time-worn, battered 
statue of Juno, which dates back to the Roman period of pos- 
session, and just within the walls are the remains of a temple 
dedicated to Apollo, and near by a cathedral, ancient with its 
mouldering monasteries, which is said to be built upon the site 




Malta: Washington's Birthday °3 

of the house where dwelt Publius, the Roman Governor of the 

island at the time of St. Paul's shipwreck ; one who, it tradition 
may be believed, was his ardent friend and a follower of the 
Christ. The whole forms a delightful picture to hang in the 
gallery ot one's memory. Bible students are specially inter- 
ested, because here St. Paul, when a prisoner on his way to 
Rome to plead his case before the Emperor Nero, though the 
ship was wrecked in this rocky bay, which still bears his name. 
with all on board, was brought safe to land. 

We will also want to see the Tower of St. Paul which com 
mands the shore. It is a square stone structure dated February 
10, 1610, which date is supposed to indicate the day of the 
anniversary of the shipwreck. Near the tower is a chapel in 
which are some paintings and frescoes which depict in a crude 
manner the scenes of the catastrophe. And not far away is the 
grotto of St. Paul, over which an unpretentious chapel has been 
built and dedicated to the memory of St. Paul, the Apostle, to 
the Gentiles and by whom Christianity made its advent to 
Malta. 

In the midst of the grotto is a statue of St. Paul and you 
will be told doubtless that the stone is remarkable for its 
efficacy in the case of fever and of the poisonous bite of a 
serpent. 

All in all the impress of Paul's life still remains there and 
the evidence of the truth of the scriptures in relation thereto 
stands unquestioned. But to the Sir Knights, Malta is of very 
special interest. It was occupied from 1550 A. D. to 1 798 by 
the Knights Hospitallers, then called Knights of Malta. 

This hour would then be quite incomplete if nothing were 
said of the famous order, the Knights of St. John, who left 
upon the island more of the personal than all other sovereignties 
that preceded or have succeeded them, and who played such an 
important and tragical part in the great drama ot the two and 
three-quarter centuries of their possession. 1 [umble though in 
origin, but noble in purpose and founded on Christian princi- 
ples, their motto being, " Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one 
of the least of these, my brethren, ye have done it unto me", the 
organization challenged at the beginning the just admiration « ► t 
many sincere and devout people who gladly joined in advancing 
its estimable object; and thus it grew, though at first slowly, 



94 Malta: Washington's Birthday 

until finally it became a great power throughout the civilized 
nations, exercising in its day a great religious and political 
influence. The Grand Masters of the order took position 
among the highest potentates of the age, and were given the 
post of honor next to that of royalty itself at all assemblies of 
state, to which they were called, being celebrated for their energy, 
heroic bravery and spirit of enterprise. 

Little did Peter Gerard, the accredited founder at Jerusalem, 
when calling- a few friends together in his own humble dwelling 
in the latter part of the tenth century, realize that he was then 
and there founding an order whose power should presently 
become so great and which indeed was the cradle of the 
afterward famous order of the Knights of Malta. 

Baldwin, King of Jerusalem, was so pleased with their 
mission and excited by their courage that he assigned them 
and their companions a place of retreat in a Christian Church, 
called the Church of the Holy Temple, and thereby this body of 
brave men were termed chevaliers of the temple. The history of 
these knights of the temple recites most daring deeds. But there 
is not time to recount the thrilling story of their deeds of cour- 
age, or how they were driven out of Jerusalem ; neither to tell of 
the imprisonment of Peter the Hermit which resulted in the Cru- 
sades, nor how through the exigencies of the situation the 
organization gradually developed into a complete military 
order, known in history as the Knights of St. John whose first 
military duty was that of escorting pilgrims to and from the 
coast, while guarding them from the frequently fatal violence of 
the natives. Later, as the Knights became more and more war- 
like, their banner of the white cross floated victoriously over many 
a field of battle as they attempted to regain the Holy Land. 
From Jerusalem the order removed to Acre, in Syria, in 1187, 
where Richard Coeur de Lion established headquarters for them, 
and where they dwelt for more than one hundred years, finally 
overpowered by the Turks in a terrific and decisive battle, they 
were expelled from Acre and took refuge in Cyprus and thence 
to Rhodes which they made to blossom like the rose. There they 
made a defence which was most remarkable because of the 
powers against them. Of this defence Charles V. of Germany 
exclaimed, " There has been nothing so well lost in the world 
as Rhodes." There they had temporary quarters for six or 



Malta: Washington's Birthday 



95 



seven years. Finally, when ( harles \. secured possession ol 
Malta he gave it to this famous order, who held it from 1550 to 
The famous old palace oi the Sir Knights is now occu 
pied as the town residence oi the Knglish government and com 
mander-in-chief oi the forces. U has an unbroken front oi ;- 1 
feet on St. George Square. Hie upper portion oi the to 
once an observatory, is now used as a marine telegraph station 
whence all arrivals are signaled as soon as the ships' llags can 
letermined. Hie view from this tower was the occasion of 
Lamartine's words: " From this tower oi the old palace Valletta 
is seen in all its original beauty, appearing as it cut out of a 
single piece ol living rock. I he (ort, St. lilmo, is also of more 




than tragical interest. It is the most perfect and impregnable 
<>f all the fortified points oi the Maltese capital. Valletta was 
founded in 1566, A. 1'.. by Jean Dc La Valletta, the forty- 
fourth Grand Master ol the Knights ol St. John, whose statue 
and also that ot I.. Isle D' Adam, who manifested marked 
bravery at Rhodes, are to be seen over the Porte Reale. 
Grand Master Valletta proposed "I milissimi", meaning " the 
humblest", as the name for the new capital, but succeeding 
knights thought otherwise and in his honor (.die, I it Val 
I here are tew more heroii pages in histon than ; 1 ■ .'.Inch 
record the gallant t ol St. klmo in the Ian 

A. 1 ).. by ,1 lew surviving brave I .11 the tune ,>t 

their captivity by the I nrks, when ihe\ imany ol tlnin a In 

piril ol real knighthood (.tun- mil ol ilnir 

Am pel having hrsl embraced each other, and w i-ni forth 
up >n the ramp;i 1 lie. I r>l Si. Khno u ere all 

hi >U'' ed by tin i-ni-my, but (he idea ol 

not t ii Li 'I by them 



96 Malta: Washington's Birthday 

The Grand Master demanded of them, if necessary, to die, 
sword in hand, fighting the infidel Turk to the last, which they 
gallantly obeyed. The Turks captured the fort, but not without 
going over the dead bodies of the Sir Knights. But the story 
is too long to follow in detail. Finally, in 1798, Malta was sur- 
rendered to the French and the order broken and scattered. 
Napoleon Bonaparte received the surrender on board a French 
frigate. But the spirit of true knighthood still lives, and will live, 
for its principles are divine, therefore, all hail the spirit of true 
knighthood wherever found ! The Cathedral of St. John is 
another noted place, having been built by the order in 1576 
A. D., and at great cost. 

The beautiful mosaic pavement is a study in itself, and the 
armorial shields of the 400 knights who are buried in the vaults 
of the church suofpfesc the continual clash of battle in the six- 
teenth century. It is the Westminster Abbey of the order. 
The rail in front of the altar is solid silver. The keys of the 
palaces of Jerusalem, Acre and Rhodes esteemed of almost 
priceless value as memorials, are said to be deposited beneath 
the higfh altar. 

The paintings, statues, and all the apportionments of the 
church are superbly grand and rich. The tapestries are known 
to have cost originally $30,000, and came from a famous manu- 
factory in Brussels, at whose looms even Rubens did not disdain 
to work. On the way to Malta the tapestries were captured by a 
Moorish Corsair, and then later ransomed by the payment of 
their full value in gold, so that the final cost was $60,000. 

As you step on shore and wander through the city and 
about the island you will have many things to attract you. 
Among the curious to behold will be the Maltese hood, fal- 
detta, presumably the insignia of modesty, as worn by the 
women. Relating to this article there is a current legend that 
after Valletta was seized by the French troops the women regis- 
tered a solemn vow that in memory of the brutal treatment 
they had received at the hands of the cruel soldiery they and 
their descendants would for the period of one hundred years 
dress in black, whenever they appeared upon the streets, and 
that all should wear a distinctive hood called the hood of shame. 

But I must not keep you longer, for I have already gone 
beyond the time allotted me. We hope soon to stand upon this 



Malta : Washington's Birthday 



97 



historic ground, and while there let us make the most of our 
time. Let us remember that traveling and sight-seeing are like 
hospitality, the stranger having his share to contribute, other 
wise the result will be naught. " \ ou will find poetry nowhere 
unless you bring some with you." — Rev. IV. A. Hutchinson. D.D. 



Malta— More Familiarly 
"February 22c!. Washington's Birthday, at S A. M.. we 
re surrounded by English torts and cannon. The Island of 
Malta. 95 square miles, had been reached, and the city Valletta 
was before us with its massive masonry. We land in boats 
floating the Maltese Cross, and make our way through the Vic 
toria Gate to the station on the height, passing on the way the 
Post Office, Government Buildings, one where Napoleon Bona 
parte stayed for several days, a Cathedral where we heard a 
band oi school children at their devotions, the Opera House, 
and a monstrous street piano with horns and a bandmaster 
appearing in front. We go down a corridor cut through the rock 
perhaps 200 teet to the cars which are to take us, thanks to Mr. 
Clark. 6 or 7 miles through the country to Citta Vecchia, men 
tioned by Cicero as notable in his time. The country is beauti 
ful with vegetation. Every house looks like a fort, and, as one 
said, could, in an emergency, be converted into stone fortifica- 
tions. The houses are oi stone, flat-roofed, square, two stories 
or more- in height. The fields are small, and enclosed in stone 
fences 6 or s teet high to protect the crops, it is said, from the 
hard winds that blow over the island. 

A native, who was on the train, pointed out his stone house 
ot seven rooms tor which he paid {.<> or £30 per year. I le said 

1 • 1 ould build a house tor $1 | his seemed a pleasant 

place to live 1 he land is productive, the temperature is not vctn 
high or very low at any tune, varying from ^o to So during 
the year. The society, possibly, would be objectionable. I lie 
Ian-.' poken are too num 

erous for a little spot on the 
surfa< '■ ot the ocean, Italian. 
I' rem h, Arab'u a nd Maltese ; 
origin ol the latter leenis 
a my >tery, perhaps I *h< 1 im ian 
and Arabic mixed. ' M -our ;e, 









|\|° Q 024284 




1st 2nd & 3rd -^ ' !,; 

z° N},: J& ZMNA 






>- OZ! 




<< 

Hj£ First 

<- Class 
2< 


^d Prima ^2 
Classe pO 




K !>> 







98 Malta: Washington's Birthday 

the official lansruaee is English, but when I talked to a uniformed 

<Z> O *_> 

officer he was unable to understand, and said he spoke Maltese. 
Two-sevenths of the 95 square miles belong to the Government. 
From the rents they derive the necessary revenue. The 
remaining five-sevenths are about equally divided between the 
church catholic and the people. The guide told us a rich man 
had an income of ^250 or $1250 per day. Judging from 
appearances, there are others whose incomes are less than that. 
The chief feature of this city Vecchia, is the Cathedral of 
St. Paul and St. Peter. Here the monks and priests showed us 
attentions, and we saw die paintings of St. Paul's conversion, 
the baptism of Publius, the shipwreck, the martyrdom. The 




Cathedral at Citta Vecchia 



adornments of the altar were of solid silver and gold without 
alloy. A priest in our party was an interpreter, and told us that 
they had in vaults below great quantities of gold and silver, 
which we might see if we stayed long enough. On the floor we 
saw the tombstones of deceased Bishops. St. Luke's painting 
of the Madonna was also shown. The Cathedral was begun in 
1697. An older one (A. D. 58) occupied this site, but was 
destroyed by an earthquake in 1693. There is another older 
cathedral in Valletta which 1 did not see, rich in decoration, 
monuments, tapestries, relics and treasure. This is the place 
where St. Paul was wrecked, and the Roman Catholic Church 
makes the most of it. Rich as it is, their representatives were on 



Malta: Washington's Birthday 99 

board to ask alms. Many of the people seem to think we came 
over to distribute alms, and have it all ready in little envelopes 
to hand out as it is desired. 

Leaving the Cathedral of St. Paul, a five minutes' walk 
brines us to the Grotto of St. Paul, over which is built a small 
church. It is greatly venerated, because they claim that here 
St. Paul lived for three months. In the little cave is a marble 
statue of St. Paul, around which we walk, and then out. Near 
by are the catacombs, extending, they said, for fifteen miles. 
The bones and remains, in the part we were in, had been 
removed ; nevertheless, it was a dark, gruesome cavern, which 
was lighted with candles as we passed through. There were 
family vaults, one each for the father, mother and baby, etc., 
and a place above for sleeping. These were the first catacombs 
I ever had entered, and they were interesting on account of the 
novelty. There was one room called the " chapel ", where they 
worshiped, and a place for a store, and two circular stones 
about four feet in diameter, used, our guide said, for grinding 
grain. These guides are fearfully and wonderfully informed. 
Their appearance does not usually give any fair indication of 
j the vast amount of accurate information contained under their 
foreign hats. 

After the catacombs we started for home, on the lookout 
for Maltese cats, which we did not see ; not one. The animals 
seen were of the plain, every-day kind, unamusing baskers in 
the sunshine. We did, however, see beautiful white Maltese 
puppy dogs, and our people captured some, which delighted us 
thereafter on the ship. The dress of the Maltese is striking in 
but one respect, the head-dress of the women. This garment. 
made of black silk, is a sort of mantilla, called the faldetta It 
has one part stiff, like; an old shaker, and the whole serves as a 
covering for the head and shoulders and has a gloomy, peniten- 
tial aspect. They seem to be universally worn and uniformly 
the same. Xo flowers, no feathers, no rivalry, no jealous)-. 
What an example to our American ladies' Frankly I must 
admit, however, that I prefer some color, even at the expense 
of peace and blue jays. Back to the ship for lunch : then we 
were given the privilege of reminding and witnessing the frolics 
and processions incident to "Shrove Tuesday", the day before 
Lent. The celebration is like that at New ( Means on the same 



J 00 Malta: Washington's Birthday- 

day. Masked and caparisoned, the people traverse the streets 
with bands and bags of confitti, which is thrown at passers 
much as Indian corn is thrown on Hallowe'en. Many people 
visited the residence of the English Governor and saw the 
elegant apartments with costly tapestries. 

There is a difference between English land and Spanish or 
Italian possession, with much in favor of the English. Malta 
has a commanding situation between Europe, Asia and Africa, 
and fine harbors, and when England, by the treaty of Paris in 
1814, got this fertile and fortified spot, they came into posses- 
sion of a valuable strategic point. We are all beginning to 
believe the man who said, "The English know a good thing 
when they see it." 

Malta has been in possession of Phoenicians and Greeks, 
Carthagenians and Romans, Arabs and, lastly, Knights of St. 
John, who got a deed from Charles V. in 1530 and held it for 
268 years, during which time they were besieged by the Turks 
and bravely held their own at great expense of life and property. 
They did much to save Europe from the hand of the unspeak- 
able Turk. Many of their Grand Masters are buried here. 

The siege of Malta by the French is interesting and should 
be read. The French, under General Bonaparte, easily cap- 
tured it in 1798. The French became odious. An insurrection 
followed, in which the English assisted the " Knights of Malta ", 
and, as I have said, got possession in 18 14. Since that time 
they have built and improved and introduced progressive 
measures and fortified the place." — Parke. 

Citta Vecchia, St. Paul's Bay, Etc. 
" About three miles from Citta Vecchia is located St. Paul's 
Bay, the supposed site of the shipwreck of St. Paul. 

We took a carriage at Citta Vecchia and drove to this place 
which possesses so deep an interest to lovers of the great 
apostle, who was never more revered and beloved than he is 
to-day — and who is not behind the great captains of the world 
in intellectual strength and in the enormous volume of his 
labors. 

A view of St. Paul's Bay impressed me at once with its 
conformity to the description by St. Luke of the place of the 
shipwreck, as detailed in the twenty-seventh chapter of the 



Malta: Washington's Birthday 101 

Acts. The " certain creek with a shore, into the which they 
were minded, if it were possible, to thrust in the ship," we 
thought might easily be the small arm of the sea now designated 
St. Paul's Bay — and it was also easy to identify the place 
"where two seas met" or where from the standpoint of those 
familiar with the ways of the seas, two seas would really meet 
during the prevalence of a storm. 1 am informed that six British 
sea captains, starting from Cresaria, the place of embarkation of 
St. Paul, on his famous journey to Rome, went over the route 
indicated in the narrative in the Acts through to Puteoli — the 
seaport ot Rome — where he landed. Their judgment was, 
after this careful investigation, that the story of the voyage as 
detailed in the Acts is acceptable and trustworthy from the 
standpoint of practical seamen. A monument has been erected 
at St. Paul's Bay, marking the traditional site of the landing: of 
the ship's company, of which St. Paul was the most conspicuous 
member. There is a considerable village at St. Paul's Bay, 
the principal occupation of the inhabitants being fishing. We 
saw the fishermen "mending their nets". 

We visited the old church in the village, in which is a 
quaint picture of the shipwreck. The place is also something 
of a summer resort, and there are several summer hotels. We 
lunched at the Hotel Royal, and found it unexpectedly clean and 
neat. Our lunch was very simple, but they made us an excel- 
lent pot of tea. On reaching the village the first sign that 
attracted our attention was this : " F"irst and last grog shop St. 
Paul's Bay", and one of the first signs that attracted our atten- 
tion at Valletta, was : ' St. Paul's coffee house — ale, beer, wines 
and liquors' ". — Archbold. 

In a .Moment of Exhilaration 
" If I had time such things I'd write 
In prose and rhyme way out of sight. 
I'd warble light and airy glees 
To cheer you brightly o'er the seas, 
hi many ways my fancies sing 
Like gentle breezes of the spring. 
Most everything I'd blithely do, 
Some bal lading, an ode or two. 
Twixt you and me, 
I ought to be 
Amongst the crew 
That vou might see — 
l!ul men \ me 
I haven't time." 

['in Miss A. 



102 Malta: Washington's Birthday- 

Washington and Ideals 

Oration Delivered on "Washington's Birthday, February 22, 1898, on the S. S. "Aller'% 

Off Malta. 

There is something of real meaning and impressiveness to 
me in this great gathering, with its fine enthusiasm and its just 
pride in a great national hero. We are afloat upon the waters 
of the most fascinating sea of history — the sea of the middle 
earth — from whose shores, in the elder world, crept timidly 
forth the impulses of modern civilization. We are weary with 
the streaming sensations of a wonderful holiday, amid merry- 
makings of yonder historic island* fortress, but in spirit, I dare 
say, each one of us sees his home across all this waste of sea, 
and there is pride and gratitude to God for the great Republic. 
Rough old Samuel Johnston defined patriotism to be the last 
refuge of a scoundrel. The definition was a brutal sneer — a 
vicious half-truth. It is true that the baser sort hold too 
cheaply national honor and glory. It is quite true also that 
scoundrels have worn this strenuous emotion as a garment and 
hypocrites have used it as a mask, but the thing itself is a 
serene, holy, definite emotion, and he who has it not may creep 
along the valleys of life, but can never hope to stand upright 
upon its mountain ranges. It is a difficult thing to define and 
weigh and measure. One may as well hope to define and 
measure a mother's love, or the rose's sweetness, or the glory 
of the sunset, as we saw it the other day in the Azores, touch- 
ing with gold the edges of the clouds, that wreathed about that 
wondrous mountain in the sea. But the love is there and the 
sweetness and the splendor are there, and there is not lacking 
to each one of us the heart's assurance that love of country is a 
potent, gracious, resistless sentiment. 

There are few periods of heroic greatness in any nation's 
life. Nations, like men, for the most part, spend their days in 
learning the arts of peace and in gathering treasures, which 
weaken and devitalize and corrupt. Now and then God sends 
times of thunder and storm to teach men truth of word and 
strength of deed. There have been two such notable periods 
in our history — the period of the Revolution and the period of 

* Island of Malta, February 22, 1898. 



Malta: Washington's Birthday 103 

the Civil War. Forth from each have issued some of the 
noblest sanctities of lift- in the form of great, simple, earnest 
men like Samuel Adams, ami ( ieorge Washington, and Abraham 
Lincoln, and Robert E. Lee, and I lysses S. Grant, and Stone- 
wall Jackson. The highest intellectual and spiritual achieve 
ment of a State is to breed such men as these, and the magic 
influence oi their lives can compensate for much of the Mood 
letting and horror of war by establishing anion- men new ideals 
of conduct and by recalling men vividly from sordidness and the 
philosophy ol Rob Roy, to service and the philosophy of fesus 
Christ. 

It is a mere commonplace of thought to say that national 
character as well as individual character comes out of ideals. 
Men copy personalities, and nations are moulded by their 
heroes. We should, therefore, never cease to be grateful to 
the Ruler of Nations for setting in the forefront of our life, the 
regnant, self poised figure of (ieorge Washington. Here was 
the man a new, buoyant, untried nation had need of, and shall 
have need of for centuries, to guide and inform its spirit and its 
eager aspirations. lie was a simple Virginia planter, strong- 
willed and resolute, unspoiled by victory, undismayed by peril, 
unshaken by disaster, seeing things straight and clear, and 
counting himself but little it the deed in hand were done 
worthily. Have you ever fancied how different might have 
been our national story, it (ieorge Washington had been other 
than he was ~ J Suppose he had been smitten like the great 
French emperor with some madness for -lory, "the eagles ol 
inspiration building their eyries in his brain and the serpents ol 
ambition hissing in his heart." What woeful tale of ruin and 
resolution might we not have to untold! But our hero was a 
beautiful, well-balanced man. who spelt duty out ol life, and 
saw (iod in His heaven .\\v\ in the wide earth, and there was 
enacted instead that quiet icene ol pathetic nobility at New 
burgh when he laid down his sword and ;el n ;ide a crown, and 
that other scene in die ( on I I il onal I onvenlion. when his 
auj'iisl presence composed the warring elements and made 

ible our great (barter. Washington did not po 
impulse , ol a < onqucn >r. lb- h,u 1 no . irj 
energy or < reativeness. I le ha , no plai e anion- the < •■ 
Khans and Alexanders and Napoleon I [«■ was no pi 



104 



Malta: Washington's Birthday- 



halt tlemon and half angel, reflecting in his eyes the sabre's 
Hash. His strength was the strength of great sanity, of great 
fortitude, of great love, of great genius for the right. No 
myth or legend or cycle of romance has swallowed up the clear 
outline of his human form and character. He lives as a man of 
flesh and blood, who worked and endured and loved and hated, 
and swore roundly, upon occasion, at weaklings and cowards 
and traitors. Washington was never a great popular leader. 
He had too grand an air for that and too proud a faith in blood 
and breeding. The young giant, Democracy, was just stirring 
himself and coming into a knowledge of his strength in those 
early days. Philosophers and poets were dreaming and singing 
of the fairer world when the people would rule benignly, and 
not king or master. Washington stood erect before this vision 
with clean hands and white 
garments, and the malign 
figure of the demagogue 
glided affrighted from his 
presence. The gilded 
youth of Pompeii, doubt- 
less, had their fling at the 
heroes of their day, and 
the American paragrapher 
and Fourth of July orator, 
with little hatchet stories 
and fulsome eulogy, have 
done their worst to mar the 
grand outlines of this 
Homeric figure, but they 
have failed. Nothing can 
cheapen him. The great 

shaft at Washington, rising rugged and massive into the upper air 
is not whiter nor cleaner nor firmer than his fame. God's kind 
purpose shines forth in his leadership of the New World. 
Democracies need ballast more than brilliancy in their rough 
work. The peril of an aristocracy is stupidity and inefficiency. 
The peril of a Democracy is coarseness and vulgarity. What is 
forever needed by them is something to make them respect 
themselves and to have faith in themselves. The poor mediaeval 
peasant got some uplift in thought from vast dim cathedrals, 




North, South, East and West 



Malta: Washington's Birthday 105 

from solemn music, from flashing armor and the tramp of the 
nobility marching to battle. Democracy must get its uplift 
from inner impulses of strength and beauty and enthusiasm, 
from some fair product of its own handiwork. Such a product 
was George Washington. We of the South do not seek to 
claim him in any narrow local way, as you of the North cannot 
lay sectional claim to the fame of Adams and Otis and Hancock. 
The) - are great Americans of ample build, of 

•' The high statured age 
When into grander forms our mortal metal ran." 

I looked, the other day, into the calm, high features of the 
bronze image of Washington in Wall Street, while all about the 
heroic figure surged the hurrying, gain-getting throng. A new 
sense of the truth that there is no particular epoch of heroic 
achievement came to my mind. It was the part of the fathers to 
discover, to define and to inaugurate the sum of human rights. 
It is our part to perpetuate, to administer and to defend these 
rights after a century of intellectual audacity has swept the world 
into a grander day. They heard the faintest cries of liberty and 
opportunity sounding in the world. It is ours to make those 
faint cries everyday facts of life and law. Republican citizenship 
is indeed a sort of unceasing civic warfare. " The jewel of lib- 
erty will not remain supinely in the family of Freedom." No 
foreign foes or stupid kings may menace us longer across the 
seas, but new shapes of oppression and new forms of danger 
have been born into the world, and there is still work for men 
to do. And so wherever our good ship may bear us, whether 
to the pale hills of Judea or the rocky heights about Athens, or 
the marble ruins of the Forum, or to the fierce activities of the 
world's great modern capitals, we may be sure that no nation has 
now, or has ever had, a loftier figure as its national ideal than 
George Washington, whose all cloudless glory it was to save his 
country and to create a nation. — President Alderman of The 
( niversity of North Carolina. 



ITALY 

Naples, Vesuvius, Pompeii 



ITALY 

Bibliography - Genoa 

[oiinson, Virginia \V. (ienoa the Superb. The City of Columbus. Photographs 

Boston. 
Campo Santo. Genoa. (M. Halstead.) Cosmopolitan. \'ol. 14, 



Naples 

Hare, A. J. C. Cities of Southern Italy and Sicily. Illustrated. London. New York. 

Forbes, S. R. Rambles in Naples. 

Rolf, E. Seville. Naples in the nineties. A sequel to Naples in 

Stoddard, John L. vol. S. Lectures. Illustrated. 

Gkegorovu's, I. 1'he Island ol Capri. Translated. I! 



Pompeii 

Bl'tlek, \V. F. Pompeii. Descriptive and Picturescpie. London. 

Dyer, Du. T. II. Pompeii. It> Buildings and Antiquities. 300 illusti 

Bohn's library. 
Role, E. N. Pompeii. Popular and Practical. London. 
Garden of Pompeii. Littell's Livi (Boston.) vol. 1 

Interior of a Pompeian House. (H. G. Huntingdon.) Cosmopolitan, vol. 24. 

p. 525 1 March, [89 

in, Sue E. Bulwer. Last I lays ol Po 



Vesuvius 

1, T. G. (I). Sc, 1. 1.. I).. F. R. S.) \'oli 

Illustrated, Glossai y. Ind< 
ition eruption in 

Jl'DD, I'Rl )[•'. J. \V. 

il Scicntiti L01 don. 

! i ■ etl (o-,inopolii 
, G. F. History of Etna 
ted. I.o 






no 



Naples, Vesuvius, Pompeii 




* 



Naples, Vesuvius, Pompeii 



Jit 



Naples 
Naples is older than Rome and old buildings are to be 
expected. The tendency is skyward, but they are not so high 
as those of Chicago, where, they say, if you drop a baby out 
of the window of the top story it will be an old man before it 
reaches the bottom. It is not necessary to believe this or to 
repeat it to your closest friends. 

The buildings, outside of the public buildings, which are 
palaces, have a general look of being squeezed thin, with a 
multitude of excrescences in the shape of balconies, where a 
network of clothes-lines cross from street to street and vari- 
ously colored and shaped garments flap in the wind. 

We passed many imposing edifices, among them the palace 
of " Kingr Humbert " with its gardens. There was a maomificent 
park along the bay, about which we rode and which we sur- 
veyed. As we rode a tunnel faced us leading through a cliff 
upon which was an old and striking monastery in sight as we 
entered the harbor. Our driver spoke Italian, but did not seem 
familiar with the language of his illustrious fathers : latin. 

We saw milk peddlers with their large, leisure-loving cows 
L r ointr alone the streets, or droves of stoats with tinkling bells 
passing along the pavements, both ready to draw a fresh supply 
from, "while you wait". 

I saw them buy by the 
tumblerful, the seller seeking 
to sell foam and the buyer 
anxious to buy milk. Here 
you would expect the milk to 
be pure, but beware, the wily 
Italian sometimes has a tube 
" up his sleeve''. 

It was a strange sight to us 
Americans to see the donkeys, 
goats, cows, etc., on the pave- 
ments and with as many rights 
as the "city fathers*'. The 
cows have long horns and meek 
dispositions. They are modest 
and retiring, and I noticed 



ORDER FOR THE DAY 
February 20th, Naples 

6.15 a.m. Breakfast (second sitting 6.45 
a. 111.) 7 15 a. m. Vesuvius Section 120 land 
on steam tenders, drive up Vesuvius to Pompeii 
and bark to Naples and dine 8 or 9 p. m. 
(March 24th carriage drive in Naples for Vesu 
vius Section, leaving by train 3 p. m. Arrive 
Rome 8.25 p. 111.). 

All other passengers land 8 a. m., drive to 
Station, special train to Pompeii and back (eat 
ship's lunches at Hotel Diomede Pompeii); 
drive 4 hours in Naples, dine on board. 

All passengers will be landed again after 
dinner to witness the (".rand Carnival plo- 
sions, illuminations, et< .. this being the open- 
ing night of Carnival. Return to ship in 
Clark's boats, flying the Ameri< an flag an) time 

up to 3 a. m. 

Feb, 2 1st .////■>• leaves Naples 4 .1. m. 
m order to trr.n the passen ei ' daylighl 

view of the \ oli anos Stramboli and Etna, 
S. ylla, Charibdesand tl 1 ol Sicil) and 

Italy. 

I ( I \Hk 



\\2 



Naples, Vesuvius, Pompeii 



nothino- unbecoming a gentleman in their manners. They 
seemed to be contented with Italy, and, unlike their associates, 
did not stoop to beg. 

Outside the heart of the city the buildings are square and 
squatty, like dry goods boxes, not notably new or neat. Here 
and there were seen " padres", clean-shaven, well fed, in black 
o-owns and furry hats. Soldiers, too, horse and foot, are 
common, rather natty looking, with cap and feathers and 
sword. 

The streets of the bayside teem with life ; men such as we 
see of the Italian race in America. One has described the 
women thus, " Black eyed, frowsy headed, heavy bodied, 
beaded and banded, bewrapped, bescarfed and wadded, early 
ripe and quickly aged." 




From Door to Door 



As we ride through on our way to the mountain, we see 
fruit stands, junk dealers, fisherwomen, peddlers and beggars. 
This is the home of dance and song, music and macaroni. 
Of the last article we saw great quantities, whose proximity 
to things not pure and sweet made us stop and in our minds 
ponder. It had rained and the streets were black and slippery 
with mud unromantic. Fruit, vegetables, bread, frankfurters, 
and, indeed, edibles of all kinds were terribly and uncomfortably 
near this putrid paste. Dogs, donkeys, mules, cows, horses, all 
were used as motors. It mattered little how small the donkey, 
he seemed able to hold his own with loads much larger than 
himself. It was remarkable what enormous loads could be put 
and moved upon a vehicle of only two wheels. Occasionally, 
we would see a fine big stylish horse, but none had check 
reins, few had blinds, and many were without the cruel bit. 



Naples, Vesuvius, Pompeii 113 

You may wonder how they were guided and contn 
They had, instead ol bits, leather straps about the nose with 
bars projecting on cither side, at the ends oi which the r 
were fastened. 

Another noticeable mark was the saddle which was raised 
considerably and adorned with brass nails, ribbons, tufts 
and bells. 

Our way along the shore to the east was between solid 
stone, plastered walls, pierced by archways at intervals, throi 
which we caught charming glimpses of orange groves and 
gardens of tropical plants. ( >n we rode with our three horse 
team between groves of fig tree-,, still bare, and blossoming 
almond. Further up our zigzag road, we came to vineyards, 
trimmed and trained. The soil seemed rich and mellow, disin- 
tegrated lava, we would say. Beggars o I all descriptions fol- 
l< »\ved and kept pace with our 
carriages, little ragamuffins, 
male and female. A quartette 
of little girls sang and sang w ell, 
to open oar purses, but they 
were hard to unclasp. At one 
point our driver, a \ illainous 
specimen, suddenly stopped, 
jumped off, and started for an 
other specimen who had been following us. I he pursued made 
tor an alley and suddenly disappeared. 1 he driver explained 
to us that the Dago was about to make way with our bin 
We were willing to have him tight tor us. but <\;<\ not care to 
come to any disagreement with one so villainous in appearance. 

At another plate an Italian band with mandolii 
and violin trudged by our side and m.i 

tive. Near the top, trinkets ol lava were " rare 

bargains Lava seemed awfully common all ah 
and miles. Compared with this colossal pile, the ■ lin 
ol Pennsyh ania are mere -pe, 1, ,. 

We reach with our lives the stoppiti ol ic 

I reached it on f< m >i , climl ii i 
atly shortened the distance, in m« 

I [ere a herd of horses, mules and dm ■ ' '•"' 

two miles we were eque ,1 rian ami will 




3fe£ 






114 Naples, Vesuvius, Pompeii 

at one time a poor path and a slow walk, at another a good 
road and a canter with the guide hanging to the tail of our 
animal. Some donkeys were very musical. One man from 
Pittsburg- told me that his mule " hollered " the entire two miles, 
attracting to him attention undesirable. I noticed a young lady 
from North Carolina riding down upon a gray old donkey, who 
was practicing a bass solo for the next trip up. Old and young 
did not hesitate to mount a mule or some other four footed 
beast, but many regretted the step. 

The too faint-hearted were carried up on chairs. One 
bearded lawyer from Pennsylvania had a donkey that stumbled, 
and the lawyer came within an ace of losing his dignity and 
sliding over the head to a lower stratum. Our ride was over, 
and we were at the top of oceans of lava. As the lava cooled, 
so now it lies — knotted, like the roots of aged oaks, in black 

and wavy piles or in masses like the 
interwoven bodies of serpents. Where 
lava meets the cinder and ashes, we take 
cable cars sliding on one rail each, but 
kept from tipping by guides at each 
side. The angle at which they ascend 
is appalling. It was not a clear day or 
my heart might have failed me. Dizzy 
heights or great depths have no attrac- 
tions for me. Steeling my fears and trusting to the friendly 
fog- I started, and rode for a thousand feet or more with volcanic 
cinder on every hand. Reaching the top, we had a twenty 
minutes' walk through the cinder, soft and damp, and in places 
hot, till we were 4000 feet above the level of the sea, which 
should have been visible. The huge crater of 1872 was before 
us, 600 feet in diameter. Smoke and steam and the internal 
rumble and roar of the earth made the moment momentous. 
When the earth began to grumble the guides were ready 
to back away, and I was readier, for it looked as if you might 
expect the infernal regions to yawn, — a black gulf, filled with 
billows of steam, muffled thunder, hissing, roaring, spluttering, 
bubbling, molten matter, enveloped in fumes of sulphur. It 
was unsafe to enter the crater on account of the fog, whose 
density prevented our seeing more than a few feet. Stones 
were thrown out, but fortunately the wind was blowing from 




Naples, Vesuvius, Pompeii 



115 







i nd few fell on our side, (in ides pounced upon th< 
while it was still hot and pressed into it uvl Im-iuIim 

sides up sold the prodm tion for ;i Iranc. 

Our return was without threat incident. We reached the 

■I in time for dinner, al < • I irin^ which r<- inter 

tained by a sinj*ine band ol h dian from Sorrento. 

\\ e saw on our return trip some beautiful •■. ■ 
and I >■ ■ ' i ! ol Naples is i la. is 

beautiful, but alas, rain and fo • n eloped sunn\ Italy. 

'See Naples and die " is an old | >n >verl>. bill 
on ipots as beautiful in our < >\\ n pal 



U6 



Naples, Vesuvius, Pompeii 




Naples, Vesuvius, Pompeii 



117 



To-day's feature was the sail past Stromboli, 
3020 feet high, which is continually in a state ol 
eruption. There is at its base a settlement, 
which was quite plain. 1 his is one 1 >t the . K< ilian 
Islands and the fabled home of the king of the 
winds. .Holus. whom funo called to her assist 
ance to wreck the fleet of the wondering rHneas, 

We sailed between the famous Scylla and 
Charybdis whirlpools, both of which were consid 
ered most dangerous to ships. The strait was 
one that demanded the undivided attention of 
our captain, as I found to my sorrow when I 
asked tor information. 





Apparently gruff 
And much in a huff 
I Ic applied a rebuff 
Effective enough 
I'd be styled " hot stuff," 
I .ittle short of a cuff, 
lie seemed rather rough, 
The experiem c 
A hit was em 1 
lor a Dull' — 
Kr like me. 



Still we saw no whirlpool, but on the Italian side were prom on 
tories which would wreck a ship with hall an opportunity. 

The Sicilian Strait ( io, 800 feet) is 2 miles wide. The hills 
on each side are under cultivation, but on all the hills there is a 
noticeable lack of trees and forest scenery. Messina the city 
in Sicily) has a population of 80,000, and seemed 
to be a prosperous and progressive eitv. For a 
long time we looked for the mount made famous 
by V r irgil, .h.tna, where or near where the 
Cyclops, the /Ktnean brothers, lived, but we 
looktd in vain, We came through the reputed 
whirlpool in a rainstorm, not severe, bin ailli 
cienl to obscure the view which we greatlj d< 
I here are mountains in quantity thai were snow 
capped, but none that were 1 1 ,000 leet, as . l'.tna 
■ aid to be. I lii, is nearly three tune, 1 h<; 
height ol Mi. Vesuvius, and, con - 
looked for iomel hint; eic a ted. I ' • 



101 1. 

Funicolare 
Vesuviana"Cook." 

3508 

I \ |'i iS'l'i 1 

PIANO 

FUNICOLARE 



118 



Naples, Vesuvius, Pompeii 




Up Vesuvius on Donkey Back 

Getting as far as we could go in carriages, we 
came to a big stable-like place where a number of 
saddled donkeys and their drivers were waiting to 
meet us. I was in front, but I modestly shrank back, 
preferring to see others accommodated, but a big 
Italian sinoled me out, and I was obliged to mount 
first of all. Carefully noticing which foot I should 
first put in the stirrup, so that when I got into the 
saddle I should not find myself facing the animal's 
tail, as they say one man did, I mounted, and then, as misery 
loves company, I watched the others. All went well till they 
got to two adipose Allerites. One was heavy, the other was 
tall and very heavy. The first one they managed to get into 
the saddle. The second, after several vain attempts on the 
part of three men to raise her into position, was led by them 
up onto a rock, and then they endeavored to lower her from the 
top of this rock onto the donkey, but, not having a derrick 
and proper tackle, it was a failure. When the time came to 



-wFUNICOLARE VESUVIANAee* 




No. 



3107 



VIAGGI COOK 



BUONO 

per un Cavallo o Asino dal Cancello alia 
Stazione inferiore. 



■»39-i##& Mancia compreso. ##^^ee«- 



start, one of the Italians came up to my donkey, and, taking him 
by the tail, he commenced to belabor his rear with a stick. 
Jack took several whacks quietly, seemingly ignorant that any- 
thing was going on behind him, but after a while impressions 
were slowly transmitted through him from rear to front, and he 
raised his head and started on a run, the Dasfo hangfinp- on to 
his tail, while I had all I could do to hang on to the saddle. 



Naples, Vesuvius, Pompeii 



119 



Finally the little brute succeeded in pulling his tail out of the 
fellow's hand, and bolted up the road. Left to ourselves, 1 
talked to him, and induced him to go slower, which, 1 will do 
him justice to say, he seemed very willing to do, and 

Jack and I went up the hill to sec the crater, 

Jack fell down — 
No, he did not, but he came awfully near it, and still nearer 
to pitching- me into a pile ot pumice-stone. — Spencer. 




The Buried City 



Pompeii 

A ride of a few minutes alonyj the bay brought us to the 
station, whence we made our way into the strangest city on the 
earth. We are counted at the turnstile and enter first the 
museum containing its plaster casts of men and women and 
animals, showing their positions in the agony of death struggle, 
and even the horror of a horrible death by suffocation depicted 
upon the faces. 

From the museum we are taken by the guides, furnished by 
the government, about the streets and houses of this city 
destroyed in 79 A. I), by the monster smoker, who, still threat- 
eningly, indulges in fumes and vapors above the deserted city. 
Pompeii has not been all excavated, nevertheless one needs a 
guide, or he may lose his way in this uncovered roofless city, 
\\ hat ever doubt there mav lie about thing's sa< fed and his tor i> ,1 1 




120 Naples, Vesuvius, Pompeii 

there is no doubt about 
these remains. The evi- 
dence is convincing. We 
are shown wine shops in 
great numbers, oil shops, 
stores, private homes, bath 
houses, theatres, and 
churches. The streets 
are all covered with stone 
and these in the main 
streets show all the wear 
Forum-Pompea and tear of heavy wheels 

for years. The pavements are stone. At the cross streets 
there are large stones used for stepping across the streets, 
which are often very narrow and below the sidewalk. In some 
places large stones were 
placed upright showing 
that only pedestrians used 
the streets. While the 
destruction of Pompeii 
was a terrible disaster, 
the buried city is a god- 
send to those who study 
the life of Roman people during the imperial period. 

There was an earthquake in 63 A. D., which caused much 
destruction. Then the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 completely 

buried Herculaneum 
with lava, and Pom- 
peii with ashes. It 
seems strange that 
the memory of the 
cities was lost for so 
lono- a time, that is 
from 79 to 1 71 3, over 
sixteen centuries. 
Pompeii was discov- 
ered by accident. 
Men di£oqn£ a well 
came upon the ruins. 
— Parke. 




Stepping Stones — Pompeii 




In the Streets of Pompeii 



EGYPT 

Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



EGYPT 

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Adventurers in Africa. 



126 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



The Land of the Nile and the Pharaohs — a Lecture on Shipboard 

Ladies and Gentlemen : 

If I felt myself embarrassed in attempting to perform 

the task I had in mind before we reached Gibraltar and the 
Alhambra, much more so do I feel myself 
perplexed now, but this time for a different 
reason. The subject is so tremendously full 
and interesting, has such an ancient and 
historical, as well as modern interest, indeed, 
is so vast that I might talk for hours on a score 
of themes suggested. I should like to cover 
the ground at least slightly, and yet even to do 
that requires a power of condensation and 
abridgment beyond my capacity, and, indeed, 
I can well believe that of any one in the 
time allotted. 

I cannot hope to be original, I cannot hope 
to include all ; I shall, therefore, aim rather to 

stimulate your ■ 

interest, your 
reading, your 
obse rvati on 
and revive old 
information. 
Egypt modern, Egypt past 

are so linked together by every- 
where present monuments, 

tombs, pyramids and remains, 

that it defies human ingenuity 

to break the link. I cannot talk 

of the present without touching 

upon the past, and I shall ask 

you to have more patience than 

the old farmer who determined 

to have the fastest driving 

horse in his county and went to 

Kentucky to get it. He was 

shown over a lono- stable con- 

taining the famous sires of the 

past, next he was shown over 



'Pompey's Pillar 



PROGRAM FOR EGYPT 

Baggage : One steamer trunk allowed to 
every two passengers and any number of 
valises. Take as few trunks as possible. 
Hand your shore baggage to your Stateroom- 
steward. 

Laundry : The Nile Section No. i (who go 
right through to Nag Hamadi Febr. 25) should 
give their laundry to their stateroom steward 
Thursday evening, and it will be done at Alex- 
andria and found in their room, when passen- 
gers return to the ship. All other passengers 
are advised to take their laundry to Cairo and 
have it done at the Hotel. 

Friday, February 25 : Breakfast 6 a. m. 
(second sitting 6.30). Land at 7 a. m. in 
small boats flying the American flag, drive to 
Station ; train leaves 9 a m. sharp, arrive 
Cairo 12.30 noon. (Nile No. 1 will be in rear 
cars, which are switched at Cairo and run as 
special train 1 p. m. from Cairo to Hamadi 10 
p. m., where they sleep on steamers). 

Each passenger will have received a card 
from Mr. Clark before the train arrives in Cairo, 
giving name, Hotel and Room Number ; then 
each passenger will please be sure and take the 
conveyance of the Hotel, to which he is 
assigned. 

Nile No. 2 leave March 1st for Upper 
Egypt. All passengers will have their drive at 
Alexandria, before embarking for Palestine. 

F. C. Clark. 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



127 



the young" colts, from which great things were expected in the 
future. He bore this as long as he could, but finally he broke 
out, " See here, stranger, you have showed me all the old 
' have-done's ' of the past, and the ' going-to-do's ' of the 
future, but what I am after to-day is an 'is-er'." 

A talk on Egypt cannot be an "is-er". It must cover the 
ground in some way or other of the "have-done's" as well, and 
our spirit will be more like that of Paddy and Mike who when 
traveling to Boston, in brand new America, came upon their 




"Past and Present 



first mile-stone. Approaching it with uncovered head Paddy 
exclaimed, "Tread lightly, Mike, tin miles to Bosting lies 
buried here." 

But not to waste time in preliminaries let me break at once 
into the subject by pointing out that hours before we reach 
Alexandria we shall see the long, flat, white line of the sandy 
shores of Egypt, and here and there, by means of glasses, 
groups of picturesque palm trees, afterward to become so 
familiar to us along the Nile valley. 

By and by Pompey's Pillar will appear, that famous shaft 
of red granite, 104 feet in height and 9 feet in diameter, which 
once stood in the midst ol the great Serapeum, or temple, a 
building only equaled in ancient times by the great Capitol at 
Rome. I lere, too, will be seen the Pharos, or lighthouse, 
which stood unrepaired for actually one thousand three hundred 
and odd years. 



J 28 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



As we approach Alexandria, that city of Egypt in Africa, 
we may reflect that we are about to land in a country that has 
been called "the cradle of history and of human culture, and of 
which the old historian, Herodotus, declared that it contained 
more wonders than any other land, and was prominent, above 
all other countries of the world, for works that one can hardly 
describe." 




"'Past oldest ivorks of human hands, Itself more ancient still — The Nile " 

General Grant, after his tour around the world, said to 
Andrew D. White, ex-President of Cornell University, " After 
Egypt there is nothing." We are about to enter the land of 
the Pharaohs and the Ptolemies at the port and city founded 
by Alexander the Great. The antiquity, the historical richness 
of the land and its association with Biblical literature must fill 
the minds of thoughtful persons with deepest emotion. 

Egypt, as you know, has been the object of interest for the 
civilized world in all ages. It has played such an important 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



129 



f 



t r / 



part in the history of the world that involuntarily we are apt to 
consider the country as one ol considerable size, yet it is a 
small State, for notwithstanding its length of five hundred and 
seventy miles, it only contains about twelve thousand hve hun- 
dred square miles, and is, therelore, somewhat smaller than 
Belgium. But this narrow strip of Nile Valley " contains 
innumerable cities and towns renowned for discoveries in art 
and science." 

Egypt was the world's university, 
where Moses and Fvthagoras and 
Herodotus and Plato and many other 
philosophers went to school. The 
Greeks, who from the seventh century 
before Christ were irequent visitors to 
the Nile valley, marvelled to tind there a 
civilization, which, though more ancient, 
was, indeed, the equal of their own. 
They saw to their astonishment power- 
ful and populous towns, strange, gigantic 
temples and a people who in nowise re- 
sembled the inhabitants of Ionia and the 
Greek islands. 

The Egyptians appeared to the 
educated Greeks, who really tried to 
understand this ancient people, strange 
and incomprehensible. 

Says Erman: "The Egyptians were 
a subject for cheap wit to the Greeks. 
They made jokes about their worshiping 
oxen instead of sacriheingf them, revering 
eels instead of eating them, and mourn 
intj for dead cats instead of skinning 
them. Yet, in spite of their mockery, 
they had a feeling of respect for a 
people, who with their ancient civiliza 
tion looked upon the Greeks as children ; 
but because the Greeks thought it pos- 
sible that the old bald headed priests of 
Egypt possessed a secret wisdom 

unknown to the ordinary human 





J 30 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



understanding they cultivated their acquaintance. Many a 
Greek scholar made the pilgrimage to the Nile valley in the 
hope that these priests might help to solve the great riddle of 
existence. We now know that these mysteries had no deep 
signification, and that the Greek philosopher was of far higher 
mental standing than the Egyptian priest. The Greeks, how- 
ever, never really understood this, and so the reverence for old 
Egypt increased as centuries passed by, their gods were 
admitted to the circle of Olympian gods, and the faith of the 
Greeks and Romans in the unknown wisdom of the Egyptians 
lasted for seventeen centuries." 

We come in touch with Egyptian history constantly in our 
Bible reading, as we study of Abraham, of Jacob, of Joseph, 



1 




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The Army of Occupation at the Step Pyramid 



of Moses ; and undoubtedly many of the ideas and historical 
facts recorded in the Bible have their origin in this old land. 

It is marvelous to learn that the Egyptians knew so many 
things we regard as of modern origin. They knew the length 
of the year, the form of the earth, calculated the eclipses of the 
sun and moon, were partially acquainted with geometry, music, 
chemistry, medicine, anatomy, agriculture, mining, survey- 
ing, excavating, etc. "In architecture, in the qualities of 
grandeur and massive proportions they are yet to be sur- 
passed. The largest buildings anywhere erected by man to- 
day are even as they were in the past smaller than the pyramids, 
while the pyramids have the additional interest of being the 
oldest human works in the world. Fortunately no nations have 
ever equalled the Egyptians in their love for recording all 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile J 3 f 

human events. No other human records i>o back so far. Genuine 
Egyptian writing has been found 400 B. C. Because they were 
so fond of recording everything both in pictures and in writing, 
because they were fond of building and excavating temples and 
tombs in the imperishable granite, because of the dryness of 
the air in preserving all these records, we have had stored away 
for us here, forty-five centuries of habits, opinions, deeds and 
most wonderful of all, the actual bodies of men. For cen- 
turies the dry air and the sand have preserved to us even such 
delicate objects as clothes and papyrus rolls. Under the influ- 
ence of their strange religious conceptions, the Egyptians paid 
particular regard to the lasting character and rich adornment 
of their tombs. While most people, of similar standing and 
civilization, have been content with perishable graves, the 
Egyptians prepared for their mummies vast enduring monu- 
ments, the rich decoration of which 
gives us full details of their manner 
of life." 

Three sources of information 
are open to the student of Egypt : 

First. — The monuments, the 
temples, the tombs, with their end- 
less Series of inscriptions and Entrance to the so-called Tomb of Rameses U 

pictures ; the papyrus rolls from the 

old libraries, and numerous objects of daily life buried with the 
mummies. Second. — The Hebrew books giving us the stories 
of Moses and Joseph, and relating much of Egyptian life. 
Third. — The accounts given by Greek travelers. Perhaps there 
is another source of information, and one frequently used, namely, 
guessing, which comes as near the truth as did Tommy when 
asked who Joan of Arc was, and replied promptly, Noah's wife. 

The tombs and monuments have been investigated, and are 
being investigated to-day by eager and competent students, 
excavators and scientists, and so one need never be surprised 
at any great and remarkable discovery in Egypt, for modern 
history has been full of them. 

For nearly fourteen centuries, however, the writing ol the 
ancient Egyptians was an enigma and a puzzle to scholars, but 
about 1800 came the finding of the celebrated Rosetta stone. 
now in the British Museum in London. 




132 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



French officers of artillery discovered at Rosetta, one of 
the mouths of the Nile, a stone inscription relating to Ptolemy 
the Fifth, and written in three languages : First in the old hiero- 
glyphic characters of the priests, second in the demotic lan- 
guage, or that of the common people of ancient Egypt, and 
finally in the Greek. 

The inscription was dated some two hundred years before 
Christ. The whole account of the unraveling of the mystery, 
by taking the names of the kings in the cartouches or round 
circles on the three inscriptions and comparing them, letter by 
letter, is intensely interesting. 




The 'Pharaohs of the Bondage and the Exodus 

This study and comparison disclosed the fact that a bird 
signified the letter A, that a lion indicated the letter L, that a 
square was P, that a loop was O, etc., until the whole hiero- 
glyphic alphabet was unfolded. 

Imagine interpreting a language which had been dead, 
buried, hidden for 1400 years, and of which there were the 
greatest number of specimens everywhere, which manifestly 
were intended to throw li^ht on an old and interesting civiliza- 
tion, and you will understand, my friends, the intense interest 
and excitement aroused anions scholars and curious scientists 
upon the discovery of the Rosetta stone. 

This stone may be seen, by those who visit London, in the 
British Museum. Then came, in 1881, the discovery at Luxor 
of the mummies of Seti the First and Rameses the Second, the 
monarchs of the oppression and the Exodus of the Israelites. 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



133 



The unwrapping of these mummies with their different inscrip- 
tions was an event of astonishing and unparalleled interest. It 
enlightened at least thirty centuries of Egyptian civilization. 
" Nothing in history," says a distinguished member of our party, 
who has written the best popular account of this great event in 
his book entitled " The Pharaohs of the Bondage and the Exo- 
dus," — "Nothing in history," says Dr. Robinson, "parallels the 
dramatic enthusiasm ot this last discovery." And now we can 
look down in the Boulak Museum at Cairo upon the actual bodies 



* 



fww^yn. 




I 







"She hath the whole horizon for a hoop " — 'Pope 

of the kings who slew thousands of little children for no reason 
except being born, who kept Israel under desperate burdens ot 
brickmaking and carrying and building until the nation groaned 
in irrepressible agony under these cruel taskmasters. 

Then the explorations of Mariette Bey and others at Mem- 
phis and elsewhere during late years uncovering absolutely 
acres of tomb inscriptions, have all gone to confirm the wonder 
tul story of Egypt's long history and civilization. 

But says Erman, "Now that we have learned to under- 
stand the monuments, to read the inscriptions, to study the 
literature of ancient Egypt, the old glamour has in a measure 
departed. In place of the dim religious light ol past times the 



134 Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 

pitiless sun of science has risen and we see the old Egyptians 
as they really were, no better nor worse thin other folks. 
Their old wisdom appears in some respects as wonderful, in 
others it grows even repulsive, while their customs are not more 
peculiar than those of other nations, and merit neither our 
ridicule nor our reverence." But one word more about Alexan- 
dria, our landing place. The first thought of many a reader 
and student, as we land at Alexandria, will be of the superb 
library formerly here, and said to contain so many precious 
manuscripts which would undoubtedly have revealed to us 
something of those old Accadian races of whom we long so much 




Father Nile 



to know. But all these manuscripts were burned and destroyed, 
we are told, by abominable Turks, Moslems, and alas Christians, 
seven hundred thousand precious manuscripts used for months, 
it is said, in heating the baths of the Arab conquerors. To 
this great library came learned men from all over the world 
to read and study and copy these precious records. Here 
lived many of the Grecian philosophers and held their schools ; 
here, too, was produced three hundred years before Christ the 
Greek version of the Old Testament by the seventy learned 
men and therefore called the Septuagint. 

Here lived Strabo the celebrated geographer, and Archi- 
medes the mechanician, and Euclid the founder of geometry, 
not to mention many other famous names. From here came 
the famous Cleopatra needles, one of which was taken to Lon- 
don by the British, after having been encased in an iron cylinder 
and rolled into the sea, and fitted up with a rudder and deck 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



135 




house and cabin, and named the Cleopatra. Taken in tow by a 
steamer it was abandoned once in the bay of Biscay, but finally 
it was recaptured and erected in London in 1S72. 

The companion needle, as no doubt some of you will 
remember, was presented to the government of the United 
States and erected in Central Park in 1 88 r , so that now we may 
see in our modern America this huge monolith of graceful pro- 
poriion, carved full ot hieroglyphics, made by the hands of men 
thousands of years ago. 

Notice the 
magnificent stone 
piers as we land at 
Alexandria and in- 
deed the ocean 
front of many ports 
we will enter. This 
characteristic of 
European ports puts 
shame when we remember our shabby 
platforms of rotting timbers at home. 

If, however, you should happen 
to see among the masts of this har- 
bor the glorious red, white and 
blue of our national flatr floating 
in the breeze, as we did in 1895, 
all comparisons will be odious 
and a thrill of patriotism and a 
shout of joy will arise which will 
show how deep is the love for 
"Old Glory", and you will appre- 
ciate the reply of an Ameri- \~~, 
can captain to a young 
Englishman, when he said 
to him, " I say, captain, that 
(lag of yours has not floated 
in every breeze, and over 
every sea for a thousand 
years, has it ? " " No, it 
ain't," said the captain, " but 
it has licked one that has." 




"Still through Egypt's desert pU fly Nile' 



136 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 




cMarket Place by Nile Bridge 



But Alexandria is only an introduction to Egypt. And the 
ride up the Nile in the English compartment cars with petti- 
coated watchmen and track walkers in evidence is curious and 
interesting. Notice the camels, the donkeys, the buffalo cows 
grazing along the way, the irrigating shadoofs and sakeiyahs, 
groaning and shrieking, the strings of camels tied together and 
led by diminutive donkeys, indeed one could call off a whole 
catalogue of curious and unique objects which must not be 
missed. 

Reflect too that you are going up a river 4000 miles in 
length and throughout nearly the whole of its course navigable. 
Think of going to San Erancisco and half way back again by 
water. A river too whose history as to its source had been 
hid for nearly 2000 years, until Stanley, our own countryman, 
discovered it. 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



137 



The Egyptians thought the river to be a deity, and we 
have a reminiscence of this in the marble figure of the Nile god 
or Father Xile in the Vatican gallery in Rome. This figure is 
surrounded by sixteen children, indicating that formerly sixteen 
cubits' rise in the Xile was thought sufficient to cover the valley 
and insure the fertility of the soil. One cubit more, strange 
enough, meant terrible devastation and flood in all the great 
I )elta district, while two degrees less meant drouth and terrible 
famine, and this well illustrates Herodotus' remark that " Egypt 
is the gift of the Xile." 

The record of the rise and fall of the Xile is kept in Cairo 
by what is called the Xilometer, said to be over a thousand 
years old. 

You will see this stone chamber on the banks of the Xile 
with its graduated pillar rising from bottom to top, and you will 
not be surprised when told that before the rise of the Xile, as on a 
Christmas or Xew Year's night with us, people spend the whole 
night on the banks of the river, practicing all manner of super- 
stitious rites and watching for the bounteous overflow. The 
river begins to rise about the first of June slowly, then rapidly from 




In Clover 

the 1 5th to the 20th of fuly unti 
the end of September, and then in 
October it rises again and attains 
its highest overflow. 



138 Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 

In other words, during- our hot months the Nile is contin- 
ually rising-, then it gradually subsides until in January, Febru- 
ary and March the fields are dried up and cultivatable from that 
on until the first of June again. 

From Khartoum, where the gallant General Gordon was 
massacred on the 26th of January, 1885, all the way to the 
Mediterranean sea, 1620 miles, the Nile is without a single 
tributary, and this fact, the great naturalist, Humboldt, declared 
to be without parallel. Through all this distance it flows through 
the midst of a thirsty desert land, giving fertility and joy. 

So fertile is the soil from the annual deposits of the Nile 
(four feet in a thousand years, it is computed), that it is said 
melons, cucumbers and like growths increase almost at the rate 
of an inch per hour. 

We are visiting Egypt at the best possible season of the 
)ear. In the summer the thermometer rises to 1 10 degrees in 
the shade. From the fertility of the Egyptian soil one might 
expect a rich variety, but notwithstanding the luxuriant vegeta- 
tion no country in the same latitude has so poor a variety of 
plants. There are few trees, growing in an isolated fashion, 
date palms and fig-trees, but nothing outside of this, and the 
scarcity of wood is one of the calamities of Egypt. 

Herbs and vegetables reign supreme ; wild flowers are 
nowhere to be found. Says Klunzinger, who knows Egypt 
thoroughly : " In this country, wherever a spot exists where 
wild plants can grew, the agriculturist comes, sows his seed and 
weeds out the wild flowers. There are no meadows such as charm 
the eye in other countries, though the clover-fields which serve 
for pasture, and the cornfields as long as they are green, com- 
pensate to some extent." 

I think most travelers will agree with me that the aspect 
of Egypt is pleasant, though monotonous ; the gleaming water 
of the broad river flowing peacefully through the emerald green 
fields intersects the land and makes the levels look very much 
like a rich, well cultivated plain of America, so that one can 
hardly realize that he is on African soil and on the banks of a 
river flowing from the heart of the tropics. 

As we drive over to the pyramids and ride across the valley 
to Memphis the air will be filled with the odor of clover and the 
various growing plants, and there will be the hum of insects and 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 

the song of birds in the air, while the 
papers may be telling- us of great 
snow-storms and blizzards and snow- 
drifts in America. 



J 39 



The 



irrigating system is very 



The Shadoof 



interesting and is the result of cen- 
turies of experience. Notice carefully 
the two methods of raising- the water. 
The old-fashioned well-sweep arrange- 
ment called a Shadoof is operated by 
half naked Egyptians who sing monot- 
onous songs as they lift up the huge 
basketfuls of water and pour them into 
the irrigating ditches. The second 
arrangement, called a Sakeiyah, 

worked by animal power, consists of a 

huge wheel in a horizontal position, to 

which are fastened rough pottery jars, 

the whole turned by buffalo cows or 

donkeys or mules, walking round and 

round, fastened as in our threshing- 

machine arrangement at home. The 

machines are never oiled, and the shrieks and groans and moans 

emitted are terrifying, although to the natives the sound may 

be like music, because it means refreshing water to his crops. 




Sakeiyah 



f ■ >'! 





The Dancing Girts 



HO 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 




<A Shadoof 

Cairo is the most interesting city in the world. It is in 
Egypt, it is in Africa, and we may reflect that it was founded 
over six hundred years before the Christian era, in the time ol 
the conquest of Egypt by Cambyses, the Persian. It is eleven 
miles square, is the seat of the Khedive, the ruler of Egypt, 
under the Sultan of Turkey and the protectorship of England, 
and has something over 400,000 inhabitants. 

Says a traveler : " What makes Cairo so romantic and 
novel is the contrast of the barbarous and civilized scenes and 
incidents it presents." It is a museum of all imaginable and 
unimaginable phases of existence, of refinement, of degeneracy, 
of civilization and barbarism, of paganism, of Christianity, of 
Mohammedanism. 

The Jewish physician in the play of the "Hunchback" 
declared, "He who hath not seen Cairo hath not seen the 
world ; its soil is gold ; its Nile is a wonder ; its women are 
like the black-eyed virgin of Paradise and its houses are palaces 
and its air is temperate." 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



141 



Says Miss Edwards in her admirable book, 

" A Thousand Miles Up the Nile," "'Ever)- shop 

front, every street corner, every turbaned group is 

a ready-made picture. The old Turk who sets up 

his cake stall in the recess of a sculptured doorway ; 

the donkey boy with his gaily caparisoned 

donkey waiting for customers ; the beggar 

asleep on the steps of the mosque ; the 

veiled woman filling her water jar at the 

public fountain, all look as if they had been 

put there expressly to be painted." 

The narrow streets and houses from which 

jut windows of delicate turned lattice work in 

old brown wood, like big bird cages. The 

streets filled with bazaars sometimes cov- 




A Lemonade Vender 



erec 



with rafters and matting- through 




Woman •vrith Yashmak 



which dusty sunbeams straggle here and 

there, casting patches of light upon the 

moving crowd. 

The unpaved thoroughfares, full of 

ruts and watered profusely twice or three 

times a day and lined with little wooden 

shop fronts like open cabinets full of 
shelves where the merchants sit cross- 
legged in the midst of the goods. 

The ebbing, flowing, restless tide of 
people, half European, half oriental. 
Syrian dragomans with baggy trousers 
and braided jackets ; barefooted Egyptian 
Eellaheen in ragged blue shirts and felt 
skull caps ; Greeks in absurdly stilt white 
tunics like walking pen wipers ; Persians 
with high miter-like caps, of dar 

stuff ; swarthy Bedouins 




"Package (?) Carrier 



woven 



m flowing 



garments 






creamy-white with choc- 
olate stripes a foot wide 
and head shawls of the 
same bound about the 
brow with a fillet of 





Water Canters 



142 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 




cA Street in Cairo 



twisted camel's hair ; native women of the poorer classes in black 
veils that leave only the eyes uncovered and long trailing gar- 
ments of dark blue and black striped cotton ; mounted Janissaries 
with jingling sabers and gold embroidered jackets ; merchants, 
beggars, soldiers, boatmen, laborers, workmen in every variety 
of costume and of every shade of complexion from fair to dark, 
to tawny to copper color, from deepest bronze to bluest black. 
Water carriers bending under the weight of newly replen- 
ished goat or pigskin, the legs of which being tied up, look 
horribly bloated and lifelike. Ladies with white veils and naked 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



143 



feet with velvet slippers, on donkey back, using with effect 
liquid eyes of black. Egyptian gentlemen in European dress 
and Turkish Fez," a most picturesque and curious and fascinat- 
ing crowd ; — all this and more, too, you will see in Cairo. 

Xotice the children of twelve and thirteen, mere girls 
carrying about their own children. Dr. Buckle)', knowing that 
the Egyptian women look older than they really are, ven- 
tured to guess the ages of two or three dancers. He placed 
the oldest at 35, the next 25, and the others 20 and 17 ; but 
the eldest, though married for some years was only 22 and the 
youngest 1 1 . 

The dancing dervishes, too, perhaps, may be seen at this 
time, but their actions have been described. Notice the dress 
of the young men : white skirts or vests reaching from their 
necks down to their ankles and girt about the middle with 
sashes, and on their heads the red fez. Frequently, too, they 
may be seen in the cool of the evening with a light European 
overcoat overtopping this. 

Everywhere may be seen huge water jars in which the 
people familiarly and commonly dip a shallow cup for a drink 
of water, and the careless manner in which it is done by the 
motley crowd explains how easily plague or cholera spreads 
among such people. 




Jjgs <ind Juqgtery 



144 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 




The Citadel and Alabaster Mosque 



The fortress or citadel of Cairo, located on the highest 
ground overlooking the city and the Nile valley, is a landmark 
from all points of view. It was within this citadel, in 181 1, that 
470 Mameluke Beys, the finest cavalry in the world, were 
treacherously assassinated by Mohammed AH, after being 
trapped like mad dogs between the two huge gates of the 
citadel. 

Along the walls you will be shown the marks of the bullets 
of the Sultan's soldiers at the time of the slaughter. 

This citadel itself was built in 11 66 by Saladin, of 
stone taken from the outer coating of the small pyramids 
of Gizeh. It is the key to the system of fortification for the 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



145 



protection ol Cairo, and the English, with their usual intelli- 
gence and eye to the best position, hold it as the)- do Gibraltar 
as a sort of grand army police station. A magnificent view is 
obtained from the parapet around the mosque of Mohammed 
AH, the alabaster mosque, which stands in the centre of the 
citadel. 




Entrance to the Citadel 



Xotice from this place the beginning- of the Delta, the pyra- 
mids of Sakkara, the windings of the Nile, with its green ribbon 
strips of verdure on either side, the pyramids of Gizeh, the 
green valley dotted with mud villages and intersected by 
canals, the patches of palm forests, the shining river shimmering 
with sails and the wonderful city, with its tlat roofs, cupolas, 
minarets and domes, all spread out like an intricate model at 
one's feet. The mosques are intensely interesting, but no 
description of them is necessary. The domed roofs as light 
and fragile as soap bubbles, and the cool interiors will be very 
fascinating. As you will see, the Moslem prays at the appointed 
hour no matter where he may be, although it is said the younger 
generation is fast giving up this habit; everywhere, however, 
you may see the Mohammedan reading his Koran. 

As we returned from the citadel and mosque ol Mohammed 
Ali one evening 1 , about sunset, in the midst oi that beautiful 
mellow, yellow, golden after-low, characteristic ol the Nile 
valley and the desert, we heard for the first time all over the 



146 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



city, from the slender minarets piercing the sky, from nearly 300 
mosques, the thrilling and fascinating Muezzin call ringing out 
upon the evening air, beginning, "Allah, la Allah," and mean- 
ing-, " God is good, God is good. Bear witness that there is no 
God but God. Bear witness that Mohammed is the prophet of 
God. Come to prayer. Come to felicity. God is great. There 
is no God but God." All this is repeated many times in the 
sonorous Arabic language, and with the pathos and attracting 
interest of the human voice. 




(Another vieiv of Citadel and Mosque 



The Pyramids and the Sphinx are opposite Cairo, across 
the Nile, about six miles over the fertile valley and on the edge 
of the sands of the desert. On the way to the river notice the 
beautiful houses in the modern quarter, built and occupied by 
English, French, German and the wealthy Hebrew bankers. 
Notice the English garrison and parade grounds where com- 
panies of English soldiers, in their red coats, will perhaps be 
training, while directly opposite is located the palace of the 
Khedive. Notice, also, the beautiful Nile bridge leading to the 
magnificent accacia drive to the pyramids. 

One feels a tremendous thrill of emotion as he comes in 
sight of " these oldest remains of the ingenuity and labor of 
mankind at once stupendous and mysterious." " Everything 
fears time, but time fears the pyramids," said an Arabian 
physician more than 700 years ago. 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



147 




&(ile Boats 



"Herodotus, the father of history, described these nearly 
3,500 years ago substantially as they are to-day, and when he 
saw them they were probably older than Israel's history. Yet, 
they stand to-day, and, but for the wearing away of the surfai e 
of the stones by human feet and the plundering^ ol the struc- 
tures for the building of houses, if visitors were told that the 
work had been finished in the first part of the present century 
they would see nothing inconsistent in the statement." 

The pyramids are disappointing at first, just as Niagara 
disappoints most beholders, bul by and l>\ they win into the 



148 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



mind by their tremendous antiquity and history and weave a 
chain of awe and reverence which makes them tremendous and 
impressive. 




The Bloomington Feat at the (Alabaster Mosque 



The well known triangular form, seen in pictures and 
engravings together with the exceeding roughness and unfin- 
ished character of the pyramids, when you draw near, takes 
away at first sight from the impression, but when the great 
pyramid of Cheops in all its unexpected bulk and majesty 
towers close above one's head, the effect is as sudden as it is 
overwhelming; it shuts out the sky and the horizon ; it shuts 
out all the other pyramids ; it shuts out everything but the 
sense of awe and wonder. 

The pyramids are situated, as you, perhaps, 
know, in what we would call cemeteries. T heir 
origin and use have been pretty well determined, 
although many theories have been invented and 
defended ; some have said that they were temples ; 
others, that they were monuments ; others, that they 

were meant for 
scientific or as- 
tronomical pur- 
poses ; others, 
that they were 
symbols of orig- 
inal things ; 





A Ddhabeah 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



149 



others that they were standards of measurements, but all 
theories, except that they were tombs, have failed to commend the 
assent ot any considerable number of competent investigators. 
Mariette Bey, one of the most careful and scientific inves- 
tigators, says : " When a king ascended the throne he began 




Cheops Ibc Great 



to build his pyramid and enlarge it by outer coatings, as the 
pyramid of Chefron. As time went on, at his death, the last 
coating was finished. The first step was to level the earth, the 
next to excavate the subterranean chambers." 

The pyramid of Cheops was built probably 4200 years 
1). C, and is, therefore, in its seventh millennium, li is hard to 
realize that this hugfe mass of stone was erected by human 



150 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



XV 



hands so man)' thousands of years ago, and that it has looked 
out over the plains and the river for so many centuries. 

Its height and size you may find in the guide books. Only 
remember that it is higher than most church steeples in America, 
and that it is fifteen to twenty feet smaller than it was when 
first built, because it has been robbed of its outer and highly- 
polished granite surface, which was probably inscribed with 
hieroglyphics. It covers a space of thirteen acres. 

The height of the stone steps, 
three and four feet, makes the climb 
to the top interesting, but it is well 
worth all the effort. The 
sense of the greatness of the 
pyramids is here truly real- 
ized. The heightand the map 
of the surrounding country, 
the vivid contrast of life and death, 
of desert and fertility, the desert 
extending away like a 
wide ocean of tawny, 
sandy billows out of 
sight, the vivid green 
stretch of narrow Nile 
valley, are intensely 
interesting. There is a 
space of about thirty 
square feet on the top. 
One would like to be 
quiet and give his whole 
attention to the scene 
but the everlasting 
clatter and request of 
the Arabs that you buy 
something " antika, 
antika," is annoying and distracting. The descent from the 
pyramid will be found a surprise. Though the steps are wide, 
you feel as it you must in some way or other slip or slide down 
the descent, but this never happens. The Sphinx is but a 
short distance from here, and the ride is usually accomplished 
on that beast of inharmonious motions, the camel. 




"SHU the Pyramids imperious pierce the cloudless skies 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



151 




7he Beautiful Accacia Drive 

Let me quote a description of this ride by a fellow traveler 
of 1895. He says : " At the base ol Cheops the camel-driver 
and the donkey-boy lay in wait for us. 

" Will 'Merica-man ride 'Rabian camel ? " 

Is there anything' that anybody else has ever done that 
the man from America will not do just to see how it feels ? The 
'Merica-man will ride 'Rabian camel. And the man from 
Seattle, the Judge from the Provinces, the Honorables and the 
Colonels, the M. D.'s and the D. D.'s, the stately matrons, the 
charming widows and the dainty girls — all take a mount. It is 
a proud day, indeed. And when /Esculapius — the traveler of 
many climes — climbs to the apex of one of the biggest and 
Haunts Old Glory over the African continent, the enthusiasm 




Chefron 



152 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 




' ' cAcross the green meadows to Cheops and Chefron ' ' 

knows no bounds. When you are ready to go aboard the 
" Ship of the Desert," the captain proceeds to make him lie 
down. He protests at the proposed indignity, cries plaintively, 
blows off steam, and finally doubles his many-jointed legs under 
him and comes to anchor on his keel. You climb up onto the 
roof and make yourself as secure as possible on the ridge-pole 
in a sort of saw-buck lashed to his belvedere, grasping the 
storm-stays and stanchions which stick up fore and aft as a fur- 
ther security. You think the beast is asleep, but he isn't. He 
is simply smiling. There is a tradition that he gets up on 
his hind legs first, but don't you believe it. He always gets up 




A Mired Corrwany 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



153 




154 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 




On the Side of the 'Pyramid 



first with the end you are 

thinking will be last, and 

his gentlest motion in 

doing- it is like the swish of 

a catapault. You cannot 

play the foolish virgin on 

him — you never know 

when the upheaval is 

ooine to occur, or what 

direction the disturbance 

will take when started. It 

may run from fore to aft, 

or contrary wise, or, start- 
ing diagonally, change 

midway at right angles, 

and end in a spiral snap 

which dislocates your 

neck. When the convul- 
sion terminates he takes 

a nap, or, if you still remain aboard, gets underway and makes 

you seasick. It is said that the ideal camel has a gait so easy 

that one may drink a cup of coffee going at full speed without 

spilling a drop, but 
with the one that 
got me nothing 
short of a hot 
water bag and a 
rubber hose would 
have answered. 
When he walked 
the motion seemed 
something between 
a ship in a chop sea 
and a corkscrew. 
When he dropped 
into a trot it was 
a cross between a 
bucking broncho 
and a pile-driver. " 

'High on a Throne of Royal Slate " 



■ . 


v „ '.- Hs- ■ 






ffh.mTI-n 




! 


pfHrptfy # - 

J \ J 


f*fl 




/ ■ 





Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



155 



The Sphinx stands east of the pyramids gazing out toward 
the Nile — a lion with the head of a god. It had been supposed 
years ago that there was but one Sphinx, but Mariette Hew dis- 
covered that there was a whole avenue of them, 141 in number, 

leading- to an altar directly 




beneath the face of the 
great Sphinx, from which 
the smoke of the sacrifices 
went up into the gigantic 
nostrils. 

Its length and height 

and dimensions, 

its cap and wig 

and beard you 

may all find 

described in 

your guide 

books. 

There is 



nothino- in 



e a v e n 
and earth 
quite like 
the Sphinx. 
Four thou- 
sand years 

B. C. it must have presented 
much the same appearance 
as it does to-day, save for 
mutilations. The nose es- 
pecially has been destroyed, 
the Mameluke soldiers used 
that organ for years as a 
target in their gun practice. 

And this reminds me of the story of the curious passenger in a 
long linen duster who leaned over the back of die seat in front 
of him and asked a fellow traveler, " Would you mind telling me 
how your nose grot all knocked over to one side dial way?" 
' Xot at all," cheerfully responded the passenger, "it was 
done oik' time when I was poking it into other folks' business." 




The "Apex " of an Allerile's Ambition 



156 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 




" cAnd the great Sphinx stares -with mysterious solemn stony eyes" 



The Gizeh Museum once at Boulak, an island in the Nile, 
is a place of tremendous interest, containing the most tamous 
deposits of Egyptian and ancient relics in the world. It was 
begun in 1854 by the famous Frenchman, Mariette Bey, whose 
remains are now enclosed in a marble sarcophagus and placed 
before the principal entrance of this palace museum. 

The museum alone is well worth making a visit to Egypt 
to see. The ancient jewelry and ornaments and gems, the 
statues and mummies, especially the famous mummies of Seti 
the First and Rameses the Second, the monarchs of the 
oppression and the Exodus must not be forgotten or omitted. 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



157 



Perhaps a brief account of the finding of these old mum- 
mies may be interesting. An extraordinary variety and number 
of Scarabi or images of beetles bearing the marks or cartouches 
of monarchs who belonged to 

the most ancient dynasties of 
Egyptian history, began at one 

time to pour into Cairo. The 
inscriptions relating to noble and 
royal personages excited the 
curiosity ot the director of the 
museum and going up to Luxor whence 
these rare and ancient things seemed 
to co:ne, he discovered that three Arabs 
had been selling them. 

Alter some difficult)- he arrested 
the principal one of them, and while 
he Avas in confinement the two 
brothers kept on selling these relics 
obtained from some mysterious 
quarter. 

But the division of the profits 
was unsatisfactory, and finally one betrayed the whole plot, 
when the hiding place of forty mummies of the old Pharaohs 
was disclosed. 




The Great Mohammedan Uni'versitv 
Corner of G.zeh Museum 
On the tvay to Thebes 




SMosque of Sultan II u 



158 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 




Interior of the Mosque of Sultan Hasan 
A Funeral in Cairo 



" Nothing in history," said 
Dr. Robinson, " parallels the 
dramatic enthusiasm of this dis- 
covery in England and France and 
everywhere. It was too astound- 
ing to be true. Shiploads of 
royal bodies and relics from the 
great tombs were carried to the 
Gizeh Museum. Unwrapping 
their mummy casings they were 
found to be the actual Pharaohs 
of Moses' and Joseph's time 
and of the ancient time before 
them." 

These mummies, after being- 

removed from one great tomb 

to another and finally lying packed in this last resting-place 

for over 3000 years in perfect security, lie to-day in the most 

unsafe place they have ever been. It ought not to be so. 

A visit should be paid to the site of Memphis, a short dis- 
tance above Cairo and once the greatest capital of Egypt. It 
can only be reached from Bedrashen, the railroad station or the 
boat landing on the Nile, by a donkey ride of some miles. 
This reminds one of the driver in the Alps who upon reaching 
a certain spot turned to 
his passengers and re- 
marked , " From this 
point the road is only 
accessible to mules and 
donkeys, I must, there- 
fore, ask the gentlemen 
to get out and proceed 
on foot.'' Although Memphis, 
says a traveler, was probably 
the largest city in Egypt and, 
perhaps the oldest, though it was 
many miles in length and so 
magnificent that the pyramids 
Abousir, Sakkara and Dashoor 



are but its cemeteries ; though its 




Court of Alabaster Mosque. Street Scene 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



159 




Rameses at Memphis 

streets'were more than a half day's journey in length ; though it 
exerted a profound influence upon the destiny of the human 
race, and though down to 800 years ago its ruins were such as 
to cause a discriminating traveler and scientist to say : " As for 
the figures of idols that are found amono- those ruins, whether 
as regards their number or their enormous magnitude, it is 
something that baffles description and of which one can hardly 
convey any idea," and led him to regard as pardonable the 
popular belief that the ancient Egyptians were giants of fabu- 
lous longevity who had the power of moving masses of rocks 
with a magician's wand ; and, notwithstanding Memphis existed 
according to Mariette Be}' 5000 years, nothing remains but 
mounds, ruins of walls, broken columns, and defaced statues, 
and idols, above which wave palm trees and around which grow 
weeds and rank grass." 




v vd 



L_ 



"Old In the Jays of Abraham ' 



160 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



Here was almost the beginning of organized society, cer- 
tainly so far as historical records are concerned. Here are the 
celebrated tombs of the sacred bulls, Apis, extending under 
the rocky limestone surface on the edge of the desert in broad 
avenues intercepted repeatedly by huge chambers containing 
granite sarcophagi in which were placed the mummies of the 

sacred bulls. 

The hieroglyphics, in 

brilliant colors, describing- 
various scenes of the life of 
the Egyptians so many thou- 
sands of years ago, are most 
interesting and fascinating. 

In the tomb of Ti, the 
rich man and agriculturist, 
hundreds of scenes in his life 
are pictured. Near here, too, is the famous step pyramid, the 
oldest of all human structures, many hundreds of years older 
than the pyramid of Cheops, and old when Abraham came 
to Egypt. 

In another direction from Cairo lie the ruins of Heleopolis 
and the temple of the sun, where was the great University of 
On, to which Moses was sent with a fellow pupil, Rameses the 
Second, by his father Seti the First. On has been called the 




,^=sr^ 



The Step "Pyramid ^Beggar 




Where we had lunch. At the feet of the Sphinx 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



161 




cMohammedan School 



Oxford of old Egypt. Here it was that Plato and Solon studied 
for years, and where Herodotus paused in his travels to collect 
the tacts which gave him the name of the father of history. 
Here Joseph lived and married the daughter of the priest of 
On, and had born to him his two children, Menassah and 
Ephrium. Josephus tells us that Jacob lived here. But I have 
touched only the outside of the wonders and interests of Egypt, 
the Nile and its history. It is a dreamland of untold attractions 
for the traveler. 

Let me close in the words of the learned Hebrew scholar, 
Eidersheim : "The ancient mysterious Nile still rolls its healing 
waters out to the blue sea waves, where, so it is supposed, they 
change its taste within a radius farther than the eye can reach. 
To be gently borne in bark or ship on its waters, to watch the 
strange vegetation and curious sights upon its banks, to gaze 
beyond where emerald green merges into the trackless desert, 
to wander under the shade of its gigantic monuments, or within 
the weird avenues ol its colossal temples, to see the scrolls ol 
its mysterious hieroglyphics, to note the sameness ol manner 
and ot people as of old, and to watch the unique rites ol its 
ancient religion unfold at each new dis<o\ cry ; this is, indeed, to 
be again in the old far away world, and that amidst a dreami 
ness bewitching to tin- senses and a gorgeousness dazzling to 
the imagination." . /. '/'. /'. McC. 



162 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 




The Suez Canal 



An Incident on the Way to Thebes 

" When we mounted our donkeys on the banks of the Nile, 
for the trip to Thebes, there were a number of Arab girls 
carrying bottles filled with water from the river, who accom- 
panied the party for the purpose of selling the water to any of 
its members who might become thirsty when 
crossing the desert. One, quite pretty faced 
and picturesquely dressed young girl, ran by 
my side during the entire journey, persisting 
that I was thirsty and must drink her water, 
continually saying to me, " Papa, I your girl, 
your Fatima." " You my nice papa, you drink my water, fresh 
from Nile, make you strong, you can ride donkey all day. 
Fatima like you." Imagine the feeling of a modest man like 
myself, from the Quaker City, having such words as these 
flashed on me by a bewitching black-eyed creature and in 
such a crowd. 




"She' 



1 am afraid I sighed for a 



Lodge in some 

o 




c Bdcksheesh 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



163 




Fellaheen 



vast wilderness." When we arrived at Thebes, Fatima and 
the rest of onr followers Avere shut outside the gates. I 
expected to see her no more. After lunching in the 
shadow of the Temple of Karnak we started back, and 1 was 
joined by Fatima at once, with her appealing cry to buy her 
water. Nothing could have induced me to drink that water, 
carried as it had been for hours, exposed to the heat of that 
day, but to appease my " Fatima " and also to get rid of her 
importunities and black eyes, I gave her a good sum for the 
water, and taking the jug, poured it on the sand. Seeing this, 
her former endearing words gave place to the most vindictive 
ones imaginable, and with them, alas, disappeared my romance 
of the desert. Nevertheless, Thebes and Fatima will always 
be coupled together in my memory." — Arthur T. Smith. 




On the Nile 



164 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



The Nubians at Luxor. 

" While we were at Luxor a group of Nubians gathered on 
the bank near our mooring- watching- with interest our move- 
ments and amusements. Tiring of other things we turned our 
attention to them. After a deal of coaxing some of them finally 
came aboard. They were a straight, gaunt lot of men with 
dark brown skins and long, black, crinkled hair. Their dress 
was that of the Egyptian, but dirtier, if possible, than the ordi- 
nary. We were much interested and amused by their manners 




An Oriental Skipper 



and dances,- dances somewhat similar to those of the dervishes. 
As they danced they opened their mouths, exposing teeth 
white as ivory. Their teeth were so beautiful that we asked, by 
signs, to examine them, and found them all free from decay or 
blemish of any kind. After they had submitted to this examina- 
tion, they were curious to see if our teeth differed from their own, 
so I opened my mouth for their inspection. One of them dis- 
covered several gold fillings, and by excited exclamations drew 
his companions' attention to the Yankee who carried his pocket- 
book in his mouth. All my friends, however, were as wealthy, 
and the Nubians showed an anxiety to pick, not our pockets, 
but our teeth. One of our party had false teeth, and he opened 
his mouth for their benefit. While they were looking with won- 
der at so strange a sight, he removed his upper plate and 



Alexandria, Cairo, Pyramids, The Nile 



165 



extended it with a rapid movement toward the astonished 
Nubian. With one accord these children of the desert made a 
rush for the rail and jumped overboard into the Nile, and no 
amount of coaxing could entice them again onto the steamer. 
After the laughter which the incident occasioned had subsided, 
some one was mean enough to remark, 'Wh it would the poor 
heathen do if they could see one of our lady friends remove 
not only her teeth, but her color and her hair? 1 ' " — Harrison /,. 
Beatty. 




' Her Lord and cMaster ' 



JERUSALEM AND THEREABOUTS 



SYRIA 



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1898.) 
Emperor William in the Holy Land. (S. I. Curtis) Cosmopolitan, vol. 26, pp. 363-78 

(Februaiy, 1899). Illustrated. 
The Son of the Carpenter. (Lyman Abbott) Cosmopolitan, vol. 16, No. 5, p. 515 

(March, 1894). Good illustrations. 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



171 




The Jaffa Harbor 



The Jaffa Episode 



Monday, March 14th. 

•• We received the welcome news Saturday morning- that 
the prisoners of the stormy harbor were landing- and that they 
would be in the city, whose streets are not golden, about two 
o'clock. The dozen of us who were here decided to welcome 
them at the Jerusalem Depot, one mile from the walls. At 
two we were there and so were the train and the carriages to 
convey them to the different hotels. The drivers had their 
vehicles in a mud hole back of the depot and there was a rush 
and a roar for seats. We who had sacrificed ourselves to 
extend an open-armed welcome were all but ignored in the 
mad scramble through the mud to the carriages. Hut there 
were about half of them left after all and for lack of other 
amusement they began to recognize their friends. 

They told an awful tale of deprivation, dust and wretched 
accommodation and shipwreck. According to their story one 
miserable boat was unequal to the numbers, ran upon a sand 
bar, sprang a leak and introduced the "pampered sons ot 
luxury'' to hardships they never dreamt ol submitting to when 
reading the gilt edged incendiary circulars sent to them. I hese 
deprivations coupled with the turbulent, twisting undertow ol 
the [oppa sea had not left them in a happy frame ot mind and 
they were thoroughly prepared to insult their besl friends and 
find lault with the most humane treatment. 



172 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



When a vessel 455 feet long stands up straight on its end 
and whistles, people are in a position to imbibe doctrinal views 
hostile to all laws of sociology. It appears the Aller arrived at 
the port on time Wednesday and could have landed them, but 
the modern law of the Sultan forbade their landino- at that hour. 
Before the majesty of the law, they bowed ; and then the storm 
arose which shook Jaffa to its roots, and the sea was in a frenzy. 
The 200 passengers were soon in the agonies of sea-sickness 
and the dining-room became unpopular. The captain, to avoid 
disaster, headed for Caifa, but the wind veered and they turned 
about and landed at Port Said, the upper end of the Suez 
Canal. This, on the whole, was an experience one would prefer 
to read about rather than endure." 




Disembarking at Jaffa 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



J 73 



Jerusalem and the Land of Promise 
Substance of Lectures before the Allerites at Howard's Hotel, Jerusalem 

No country on earth has at once so limited an area and so 
great a variety of climate as Palestine. The Jordan Valley 
enjoys tropical heat and vegetation. Mount Hermon is just 
beyond the northern boundary of Palestine proper, and from 
the perpetual summer of Ghor or Jordan Valley can be seen 
lifting up its head to a height where the snow remains through- 
out the year. This diversity of climate is clue to the physical 
features of the land, features peculiar, indeed unique. The 




In the Streets of Jaffa 



Dead Sea lies 1300 feet below sea level. Mount Hermon rises 
9950 feet above sea level. Between these two extremes there 
is variety enough to satisfy the most exacting. 

A Jerusalem resident can reach the region of continual 
summer by making a journey of sixteen miles to the east, dur- 
ing which journey he will descend nearly 4000 feet. He. can 
reach the orange groves of Jaffa, with their soft Florida climate, 
after a journey of forty-three miles ; he is only one hundred and 
lifty miles from the summit ol I lermon. In midsummer one can 
stand on the shore of the 1 )ead Sea with the thermometer regis 
tering the almost insufferable heat of 1 \n bahrenheit, and look 
ing up the |onlan Valley see the snow fields on the tup ol 
I lermon. In his own citv, 2600 feet above the Mediterranean 



174 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



and 3900 feet above the Dead Sea, the Jerusalemite has in 
summer a temperature seldom rising above 95 ° Fahrenheit in 
the shade, and in midwinter seldom going lower than the 
freezing point, and that only at night. 

The position of the city, between the high mountains on 
the north and the hot desert lands on the south and east, ren- 
ders it subject to rather sudden changes of temperature. Only 
occasionally, however, are the changes severe enough to cause 
suffering even among the lightly clad denizens of the place. 
These changes are now more frequent and more severe than 
they once were, owing to the denuded condition of the country 




. 








A Corner in Jaffa 

as regards forests. There is practically no timber in any part 
of Palestine. There arc some districts that might be called 
woodland in a country where woods were not abundant, but 
under present conditions there is no prospect of any increase in 
timber growth. With an utter disregard of the future, the 
inhabitants have in most quarters stripped the hills of every 
tree. What little fuel is necessary is procured by grubbing out 
the roots of the ground oak and the fragments of olive trees. 
As for tree culture, there is nothing of the kind practiced. The 
fact that in Bible times the rainfall was more abundant and the 
natural springs more numerous and copious, would lead to the 
inference that at that time the forests covered a considerable 
part of the land. 

Palestine could never have supported the population 
accredited to it at certain periods of its history had it always 
been in its present condition as regards moisture. 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



175 



Jerusalem and the neighboring districts have but two 
seasons, the wet and the dry. " Seed time and harvest, cold 
and heat, winter and summer," are the Biblical names. And 
each term is exact. The wet season is the " seed time ; the 
cold, the winter ; " the dry season is "die harvest; the heat, 
the summer." The early rains usually commence late in Octo- 
ber or early in November. They open the agricultural season, 
softening the earth that has been dried hard by the long - sum- 
mer and making it possible for the husbandman to use his rude 
plow, an implement which has been in no way improved since 
the days of the Patriarchs. 

In January and February the heaviest showers fall. In 
March and April come the ''latter rains " of Scripture. 

I hiring- ever)' winter there are usually a few days of 
freezing weather. A thin coating of ice forms on small pools 
during the night, but it disappears before the following noon. 
Snow is an occasional and to the natives a very unwelcome' 
visitor. 

Summer begins about the middle of Ma)' and continues 
until the last of September or well into October. 

Jerusalem is decidedly a wind)- city. Her winds, while 
sometimes exceedingly boisterous and careering over the 
mountains at a rate that would do justice to a Dakota breeze, 
are her best friends. The sultry and sickening winds from the 
drsert are fortunate!)' infrequent. In every part of the city, 




The Hous: of Simon the Tjnner 



176 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 




but especially in the low underground hovels of the Jewish 
quarter and in some of the narrow, arched streets, fresh air can 
always be enjoyed. I confess that it is not always enjoyed, for 
the denizens of some parts of the city are so vile in their habits 

of life that they seem to prefer the 
odors of decaying vegetable and 
animal matter to the combination 
of fresh sea and mountain air. 

I question if any city in the 
world of its size violates more 
flagrantly the primal laws of sanita- 
tion. Regardless of these laws and 
indifferent to their surroundings 
the people in some parts throw all 
the refuse of their living into the 
narrow, unventilated streets and 
allow it to lie there exhaling its 
poisonous vapors, until the street 
cleaning brigade, consisting; of a 
couple of donkeys and as many 
boys, with little more intelligence 
than their long-eared helpers, come along and carry it off 
to the common dumping grounds. To a foreigner — even to 
some whose own cities are by no means models of cleanliness — 
the odors from some of the Holy City's side streets are excru- 
ciating. The wonder is that such utter disregard of sanitation 
does not frequently result in fatal epidemics. But it does not. 
Cholera is a frequent visitor to some parts of the Turkish 
dominions, but for thirty years Jerusalem has escaped its 
ravages. At the report of cholera all goods for some days are 
quarantined and then fumigated. I have seen them washing 
money in the sea at Jaffa in order to free it from any clinging 
cholera bacilli, while at the same time in the streets of that city 
and in Jerusalem were unnoticed piles of decaying, cholera- 
breeding matter — a great deal more likely to work injury to the 
inhabitants. There are two reasons why disastrous results do 
not follow such negligence : the power of the sun to dry all 
putrefying matter, and the continual breezes that carry off the 
poisonous gases. 



The Well of the SMagi 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



177 




The Hill of Zion and the Road from the Station 



Nature has made this a health)- city in spite of the filthy 
habits of the majority of its inhabitants and the puerility of its 
official class. Its high altitude and deep encompassing valleys 
counteract this carelessness and childishness. Had Jerusalem 
been built on a plain the habits of its present population would 
long ago have depopulated it, or, at least, sunk it to the condition 
of the wretched villages of the maritime plain. It has a sewer 
system of most primitive construction, which any sanitary engi- 
neer would pronounce more destructive of, than conducive to, 
health. This condition of affairs is the wonder and disgust of 
visitors and civilized residents. Often have I heard this or 
similar remarks : " Well, of all places I was ever in this is the 
filthiest, and can produce the most villainous odors. It must 
be one of the most unhealthy places on earth." And yet the 
climate in summer is preferable to that of the majority of 
places in the temperate zone. The city's altitude, dry air and 
proximity to the sea and the mountains, make it something of a 
summer resort. Many missionaries residing in the surrounding 
districts and in Egypt spend their vacations here, coming up 
from the plains and cities along the Syrian coast and from 
neighboring villages. And they find what they seek, rest and 
a change of climate. 

No matter what the day is, though it is seldom hot enough 
to be uncomfortable indoors, the nights are always cool. As 
soon as the sun dips into the western sea coolness comes that 



178 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



would be the envy of our American cities even in the northern 
states. If New York and Philadelphia and Chicago could enjoy 
the same temperature at night, fewer of their citizens would 
need to "waste their substance " in paying the high rates of 
seashore, lake and mountain resorts, where they think they 
must £0 in order to make existence bearable. 

But the water, with its impurity and scarcity, is the great 
objection. Still, nobody desiring a daily bath need go without it, 
and good, pure water, as healthful as any water on earth, 
gushes out in living springs from the limestone hills near 
enough to the city to admit of its being brought in and sold at 
the not too exorbitant figure of three cents per gallon. 

On coming to Jerusalem the visitor is struck by the rocky 
character of its surroundings. In many places on the plateau 
on which it stands the outcropping of the limestone is a common 



sight. 



The barren condition of the neighboring hills and valleys, 
and, in fact, of the two hills on which Jerusalem is built, detracts 
much from the beauty of the place. These hills and valleys 
were once carefully cultivated, and, doubtless, over them trees 
and vines grew luxuriously. Centuries of neglect have caused 
the soil to be washed down into the valleys and the hills are 
little more than bare rocks. Debris from the many destruc- 
tions Jerusalem has suffered has also helped to fill up the two 
surrounding and one intersecting valley. 

The location of the city has been changed, or rather it 
occupies but a part of the ground covered by the Jerusalem of 
Herod and his immediate successors. The old city, including 
the mosque area, covers only 209^ acres. At the time of its 
greatest importance it must have embraced within its walls 

nearly three times 
as much territory, 
and, judging from 
the estimates of its 
population at that 
time, the houses 
must have been 
even more closely 
built than now. 




Damascus Gate 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



179 




oMount cMoriah 



The houses are generally poor and patched, and have a 
mottled and ancient appearance. The mottled aspect is due to 
the fact that the stones composing the walls have done previous 
duty in buildings or walls that have fallen before the besiegers. 
The ancient look is genuine ; the) - are old ; some of them were 
quarried thousands of years ago. 

The streets are in no way attractive ; they are narrow, 
tortuous and bewildering, running here and there with as little 
order and regularity as is manifested by the average mortal 
who passes along them. I he only thoroughfares whose situa- 
tion and direction are capable of explanation, arc I )avid Street, 
which runs east from the Jaffa Gate and makes connections 
which lead out at St. Stephen's Gate on the opposite side <>t 
the city ; Christian Street, which is the thoroughfare from David 
Street to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre; and the through 
street leading from the Damascus Gate on the north to /ions 
Gate on the south. These are streets ; the rest thai bear the 
name are, in fact, something less than alleys and something 
more than paths. The people who live along the streets use 
them as receptacles for the refuse ol their living. Sometimes 



180 Jerusalem and Thereabouts 

this refuse remains for a month and, being added to continu- 
ally, makes a very uninviting passage for pedestrians. The 
habits of the Arab and Jew residents are most abominable and 
actions violating common decency are tolerated — actions which 
in any city whose authorities had any regard for the appearance 
or health of the community would land their perpetrators in 
jail. Here such punishment would be considered a blow at 
personal freedom and, therefore, resented with great posi- 
tiveness. 

The residences are small, ill-ventilated and poorly lighted. 
The inhabitants live in crowded quarters and seem to object to 
fresh air. There are spots in Moslem Jerusalem too awful to 
be described. There are houses, however, of very commodi- 
ous and respectable appearance in each of the three quarters 
of Jerusalem, where it may be seen that those who reside there 
have some ideas as to the comforts of life. 

In the various convents, schools and building's, used as 
residences for the orders of the clergy and the various churches, 
there is also comfort and plenty. Some of these, together with 
the churches in connection, are very handsome pieces of archi- 
tecture and would be ornaments to any city of the western world. 

Out of the 209*4 acres occupied by the city thirty-five 
must be taken for the enclosure of the great Mosque. At 
least as much more is occupied by military barracks and fully as 
much is the private and unoccupied land of the various reli- 
gious orders. Subtracting from what remains that on which 
stand the churches and other buildings not used as homes, 
it leaves something less than one hundred acres of ground to 
furnish the homes and the places of business for a population 
approximating thirty thousand. 

The stores and shops are very primitive, but the methods 
of doing business are something to be wondered at. Along 
Jew Street which is in the centre of the city and runs south 
from David Street, can be seen on any day, but Saturday, a 
sight which for variety of dress, language, features and goods, 
cannot be paralleled. The stores are minute, some of them 
having only a few feet each way ; the largest not more than ten 
feet wide by fourteen long. The way the goods are packed in, 
however, and the amount that can be exhibited to a probable 
purchaser is wonderful to the uninitiated. 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



181 



Another characteristic, and perhaps the most striking one. 
of lerusalem is the religions asoect. It holds easily the title of 
the Holy City tor this reason, it tor no other. Look in any 
direction you may and you will see the root ot mosque, steeple 
ot church or dome ot synagfosfue, and here and there the tall 
minaret overlooking all. The largest of the churches is that 
of the Holy Sepulchre, but there are at least twenty-five others. 
The largest of the synagogues is that known as Khal Stamboul, 
or Congregation of Constantinople, but there are two hundred 
others scattered throughout the town. The largest of the 
mosques is the El Aksa on Mount Moriah, but there are inferior 
ones to the number ot thirty-seven. Added to these are the 
religious and eleemosynary institutions of priests and monks 
and nuns. At nearly every hour some of the numerous bells 
are ringing die call to service. At stated intervals, namely, at 
dawn, noon, middle of the afternoon, sunset, and at one and a 
half hours after sunset, the muezzin call is given " from the 
tapering summit of tall minaret," and the faithful Moslem 
obeys. 




The Ch. Holy Sepulchre 



J 82 Jerusalem and Thereabouts 

For centuries the city and land have been under Moslem 
rule. The nominal head of the local government is a pasha, 
who is appointed by the Sultan. It depends altogether upon 
the character of the pasha whether he shall be anything more 
than a nominal head. The inferior officials can have only as 
much power as the pasha allows them. They constitute a sort 
of municipal council, and consist of nine Moslems, one Jew and 
one Christian. This is an exceedingly unfair division, seeing 
that the Moslem body is the smallest. 

In the way of amusement there is nothing, not a place 
where an exhibition of any kind can be given, were there any- 
thing worth exhibiting ; not an opera nor a play ; not even a 
concert, from one year's end to the other. Lectures are occa- 
sionally given in the tourist season under the auspices of the 
local branch of the Palestine Exploration Society. For the rest 
of the year the town closes at sundown. The only places that 
keep open after this hour are a couple of German beer-halls 
and some Arab coffee-shops. The streets are deserted by 
humanity, and all is quiet until daybreak, except the canine part 
of the population. 

Wonderful is the transformation that comes over the city 
when night falls. The people have nothing to stay up for, so 
they retire early. The natives are early risers ; they may have 
nothing to do, but no matter ; they are up before the sun. 

There is no street lighting in Jerusalem save twenty-eight 
small oil lamps stuck up here and there on the sides of the 
houses. They are uncared for, and on a dark night do nothing 
more than indicate that they are lighted. 

There are no telephones, and not likely soon to be any. 
An American missionary, who had charge of some schools sev- 
eral miles away, and with which it was necessary for him to 
have frequent converse, had a telephone sent to him. When 
he proceeded to put it in condition for service a Turkish officer 
was sent to make inquiries. The affair and the benefit of it 
were explained to him, and he went away and reported it to his 
superiors. Word soon came to the progressive missionary that 
he must desist in its operation. Such an innovation could not 
be allowed unless he had an order from the Sultan. He had no 
such order, and was in no mood to pay the sum necessary to 
obtain it. The telephone has been lying unused for several 
years. 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 183 

The new city of Jerusalem, outside of the walls, has grown 
up within the last twenty-five years. This is not a very rapid 
growth, it it be compared with some of our western cities, but 
it is rapid for this part of the world, especially that on which the 
throttling Turk has his grip. In a country whose government 
discourages all progress by 
taxing eveiw improvement 
beyond the benefit it can 
bring to the one making it, 
that discriminates against 
certain classes of its popu- 
lation and prohibits the 
entrance of many new set- 
tlers, the rapid advance 
ot the city is a cause ior 
wonder. 

On the highest part of the 
ridcre of the new citv, outside the 
old walls, stands the consulate of 
our own great nation, and when 
the " Stars and Stripes " are 
floating they can be seen from 

nearly every part of the city. That flag of a nation undreamed 
of two hundred years ago waves over this city that counts its 
age by decades of centuries, yet represents a civilization as far 
in advance of what it sees as the parlor-car is in advance of the 
camel as a method of travel. 

In this New Jerusalem the air is always pure. This is a 
matter about which tourists can afford to be unconcerned for a 
time, but which residents must consider. Because of its com- 
pact nature, the narrowness of its streets and its lack of proper 
drainage, the old city has at times a woeful lack of fresh air. 
But on the high land on the north there- is never any want ol 
this preventive of fever and other diseases. It comes up moisl 
from the Mediterranean, and fragrant with the odors of the 
hills, or down from the high Lebanon country hearing refresh 
ment and invigoration. 

This new Jerusalem grows by accessions from ever) pari 
of the globe. On its streets "all sorts and conditions ' ol Jews 
and Gentiles meet and pass one another. I hey m,i\ be 




The Tombs of the Kings 



m 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



strangers to each other and ignorant of the part they are play- 
ing, but I cannot resist the belief that each is doing his part in 
God's plan for the rebuilding ot the city and its enlargement 
far beyond the borders it has occupied in the past. 

Three centuries and a half have tested the present walls 
of Jerusalem, and work that even in times of peace will endure 
through so many years is in no danger of losing by comparison 
with similar work done to-day. Sulieman, the Magnificent, was 
the builder of the present wall and that he was not ashamed of 
his achievement is attested by the inscriptions found on several 
of the city gates. The date of their erection was 1536 to 1542. 




The Mosque of Omar 

The Jaffa gate is the most convenient starting place for 
making a tour of the walls. This gate is called by the natives 
the Gate of the Friend, because from it travelers from the city 
go to Hebron, the place of Abraham the Friend of God. The 
road from Jaffa meets the Hebron road here, making; this the 
most important entrance to the city. A crowd of carriages, 
donkeys and shouting men are always near and a constant 
stream of varied and variegated humanity is passing in and out. 
At the present day the large gates of the city are never closed. 
At any hour of the day or night one can come and go as he 
will, provided only that at night he must carry a lantern or 
explain its absence to the police. 

The average height of the walls about Jerusalem is about 
forty feet, but they seem irregular owing to the immense 
amounts of debris that have been allowed to accumulate. 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



185 




Interior of the Mosque of Omar 



The measurement of the entire city wall is two and a half 
miles. To walk the distance gives one a very good idea of the 
general topography of the place, and ot the neighboring hills 
and valleys and villages. The walls are no longer useful for 
protection, they can hardly be called ornamental ; they add to 
the city's quaintness and picturesqueness, and for this reason 
only it is to be hoped they will remain. 

Of the population of Jerusalem one must speak in few 
words. There is no question of the slow increase of the Jews 
in spite of the rigorous prohibition and strict passport regula- 
tions. Of the .85,000 fews from nearly every country on earth 
now in Palestine, fully one-half are living within the wails ot 
ferusalem or in the 23 colonies that cluster just outside the 
walls. The list of strangers in the city on the day ol Pentecost, 
as described in the second chapter ot the Acts ot the Apostles. 
can be duplicated to-day and increased by the nanus ol many 
lands and nations of which history was not cognizant. 

In numbers the Hebrew nation is respectable, in wealth 
and abilities it is wonderful. A sense ot what it is, is compel 
ling it to think of what it might be and to discuss the methods 
ot fulfilling its destiny. In these discussions Palestine is com 
illg into prominence and the formerly indifferent an- made 



J 86 Jerusalem and Thereabouts 

" Lovers of Zion." Israel needs a home, a land he can call his 
own, a city where he can work out his salvation. He has none 
of these now. His present home is among strangers, people 
with whom he has little sympathy and who have little for him. 
The lands in which he lives are not his own, though he has 
frequently shed his blood for their preservation. The cities he 
has helped to build are not his, they never can be. Israel's 
hope of a home land is possible of realization, but it will be 
realized only in Palestine. 

There are obstacles in the way which will not be removed 
to-day or to-morrow ; that they can be removed is enough. 
There is coming a time when Israel shall " no more be termed 
forsaken " nor his " land any more be termed desolate." Then 
Jerusalem shall be called "Sought out, a city not forsaken." 

Of the entire Christian population of Jerusalem nearly one 
half are adherents of the Greek Orthodox Church, the wealthiest 
and most influential of all. Next in order are the Roman 
Catholics, who number three thousand two hundred, and who, 
as a Church, are by no means poor in this world's goods. The 
following list will give a concise idea of the various Christian 
bodies : 

Greek Orthodox .... 4000 

Roman Catholic . . . 3200 

Armenian . . . . . 600 

Protestants (all forms) . . . 500 
Coptic . . . . .120 

Greek Catholic . . . 100 

Abyssinian ..... 60 

Syrian . . . . . 50 



Total .... 8630 

It is very easy to obtain funds for charity in Jerusalem. 
The very name of the place appeals to all the Jewish and 
Christian world, and the amounts of money that come in for the 
regularly organized missionary and charitable societies, as well 
as for private independent workers, are truly surprising. For 
the amount of work done, as well as results accomplished, there 
is more money spent in the Holy City than in any other city on 
earth. And a great part of that money comes from America. 

It would be doing a great injustice to many faithful men 
and women to criticise without reservation all the mission work 
that is being clone. Even though it is open to criticism, I shall 



188 Jerusalem and Thereabouts 

have to leave that for those professional critics of Christian 
missions who are all too ready to publish their ignorance and 
are all too readily believed. 

This must be said of the majority of Protestant Christian 
workers, that they are faithfully living and preaching the Gospel 
of the Master as they believe it. They are teaching these 
people how to live for this world as well as for that which is 
to come. 

It should be borne in mind also that those who are here 
doing the Master's work, as they see it, have one of the hardest 
fields in the world to work. Christianity is no new thing to 
these people, but the Christianity of Christ is. It is true that 
the apparent results are small, but they are substantial. 

The " Houses of Industry," where young men are taught 
some useful trade, are in themselves a blessing. These young- 
Arabs go out to the different villages scattered over the land, 
able to do something more than pass their time in idleness. 
They also have some idea of what the true religion of Jesus is, 
even if they do not brave the ridicule and possible dangers that 
a public profession of it would bring upon them. There are 
girls in the mission schools who are taught ideas of cleanliness 
and get valuable lessons in home-making. This is work that 
will tell in the coming generation. The casual visitor, who 
comes to the city for a few days, and spends those days in sight- 
seeing, among which the mission work is not included, and then 
goes away to answer any who may question, is likely to answer 
there is very little of such work being done. All that such 
people need is an object lesson showing what these boys and 
girls were when they entered the schools, or Houses of Industry, 
and what they are when they leave to take their places in the 
world. 

It would take a volume to tell of the "crank" population 
counted among the Christians mistakenly, diseased religionists 
from Europe or America, and who bring true religion into disre- 
pute. Of oriental Christianity this may be said, that it is little 
else than lifeless form, and to "preach the gospel" seems to be 
no part of the labor of its numerous clergy. Their work is to 
care for the holy places, look after their large property interests 
in and near the city, see that their privileges are not infringed 
upon by other sects, repeat their prayers and live comfortably. 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



189 



A list of the numerous buildings possessed by the Greeks 
that is, the State Russian Church, devoted to religious, educa- 
tional or charitable purposes, gives color to the belief that her 
diplomats are using- this arm of her established church to 
increase Russian power and influence. The mission seems to 
be to Russianize the land rather than to Christianize the people. 








Lepers 



The Latin church, or the Roman Catholic Church, is a mission- 
ary institution, and its priests do not lose sight of that fact. 
Each one ot them is a missionary, and wherever he is holds in 
mind his commission to make Latin Christianity supreme. 
1 lie various orders ot monks and nuns, with their schools 
and orphanages and infirmaries for taking care of the children 
and the women and the sick, indicate their wisdom for the 
future. The church that employs such enginery is bound to 
progress, and the one that does not is sure to be surpassed. 



190 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



The Latins are caring not only for the children of Latin parents, 
but are providing education for children of the Greek and other 
churches. 

The Armenians have an extensive properly on Mount 
Zion near the Tower of David. The other oriental churches 
are rather poor. 

The Church of England, that is the Episcopal church, 
represented by the Church Missionary Society and the London 
Society for the Promotion of Christianity among the Jews, car- 
ries on the most extensive mission work done by the Protestants. 
It confines itself to the native population and works in the neigh- 
boring villages as well as in Jerusalem. For the number of 
workers the results appear very small, and when one compares 
the amount of money expended with these small results the 
wonder is that the supporters of the work do not become dis- 
couraged and apply the money here used to more appreciative 
people in other parts of the world. 

The Church Missionary Society [of this church] employs 
in all about twenty workers. These are preachers, teachers and 
house-to-house visitors. Services in Arabic are held every 
Sunday in St. Paul's Church north of the city. There is a boys' 
boarding school, founded by Bishop Gobat, where about seventy 
boys are educated. This society also conducts a day school for 
boys and girls. 

The " London Jews' Society " [of this church, also] owns 
the handsome stone church on Mount Zion, just opposite the 
Tower of David. Services are held every Sunday and are in 
English and Hebrew. A fine boys' school adjoins the church, 
where children of Jewish parentage are cared for. To the north 
of the city is the girls' school of this society, which is ably con- 
ducted and possesses the best equipped school building in 
Palestine, with the exception of the American Friends' School 

at Ramallah. Under the care of 
the society is also a " House of 
Industry," where young prose- 
lytes are taught useful trades, 
and just now there is being 
erected a magnificent new hos- 
pital a short distance north of 
the British Consulate. 




Lepers 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 191 

Between the English and the Germans a great charitable' 
work has been done by means of hospitals and dispensaries. 
The German Lepers' Hospital, southwest of the city, is most 
worthy of mention. The form ot leprosy that may now be seen 
all too frequently in the environs of Jerusalem is not the same 
as that of Bible times. Hideously repulsive as the victims of 
it are, and fatal as are its results, it is not contagious. There 




is no doubt that it could be 

stamped out in a single genera- 

tion, if the authorities would 

seclude the infected ones and prevent any of them from 

marrying. The disease is hereditary, and the children oi 

afflicted parents are sure to have it sooner or later. 

On the fine property owned by the Evangelical Germans 
has lately been erected, dedicated and consecrated, the Emperor 
of Germany making the long journey for the sole purposed 
being present at that ceremony, a beautiful church. After a 
full recital of the Christian institutions and labors in and about 
Jerusalem one unacquainted with the place might look for the 
immediate conversion to Christianity of all non-Christians. But 
it must be said that there is no place in the world where imlil 



t92 Jerusalem and Thereabouts 

ference and opposition are so manifest. Indifference is the atti- 
tude of the Moslem, while opposition characterizes the Jew. 
The results of the mission work are necessarily small, and will 
be so as long as there is so much called by the name of Christ 
that is unlovely and false, and in some instances, despicable. 
Here, as elsewhere, Christianity is judged by its fruits, and so 
much of the product is undesirable that the whole is refused. 
Before the indifference can be changed to interest and the oppo- 
sition to favor, there must be a radical change in the Christian 
Church. It must return to the Christianity of Christ, exhibiting 
less of outward form and more of love. Until that change is 
made — when dead form will give place to genuine Christian 
living — the results can be no greater. At present the time 
given to this work is almost wasted, and the money spent well 
nigh lost. 

My own belief is that the time is not far distant when Pal- 
estine will be in the hands of a people who will restore it to its 
former condition of productiveness. The land is waiting, the 
people are ready to come and will come as soon as protection 
to life and property is assured. I am ready to go further and 
say that the coming inhabitants will be Jews. This must be 
accepted, or the numerous prophecies that assert it so posi- 
tively must be thrown out as worthless 

The present movements among Jews in many parts of the 
world indicate their belief in the prophetic assertions. Their 
eyes are turning toward the land that once was theirs, and their 
hearts are longing for the day when they as a people can dwell 
securely in it. With every improvement of the country the city 
of Jerusalem must improve. It will always be the centre of 
Palestine. Should an independent nation arise and occupy the 
land, as it once did, we should see history being repeated and 
Jerusalem a city of prominence. There are physical obstacles 
that would have to be overcome, but they are not so great as 
has been often assumed and asserted. There is room for a large 
city. The Plain of Rephaim as far south as the Convent of 
Saint Elias — half way to Bethlehem — is admirably adapted to 
city construction. The broad plateau on the north, now being 
rapidly built over, is all that could be desired for residence sites. 
There is ample room for a large city. 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



193 




The Garden of Gelhsemane and the Mount of Olives 



There is something more needed than room, however ; 
there must be means of support for the people These means 
are at hand, but, as already mentioned, they arc undeveloped. 
Rich mineral deposits have been discovered, but work upon 
them has been abandoned because of the paralyzing ; policy oi 
the government. Copper and tin have been found ; coal exists 
in paying quantities in the Lebanon and near Sidon ; at the 
former mine-, the coal is of good quality, and 12,000 tons were 
atone time mined, then the works were abandoned. 

With the introduction of railways these fields would all be 
worked and made to pay. There are large mineral deposits in 



194 Jerusalem and Thereabouts 

Gilead and Moab, and along the shores of the Dead Sea. 
Petroleum is said by experts to exist in abundance in the south- 
ern part of the Jordan valley. There are salt deposits in and 
near the Dead Sea sufficient to supply the world's demands. 
All this wealth of minerals is of no value now, but once capital 
is assured of safe investment the present death will give place 
to activity. In such an event Jerusalem would be the natural 




"Hie de Virgine Marie fesus Christus NMus Est " 

manufacturing centre, and could not only supply her own 
demands, but be able to compete with other manufacturing 
cities in the markets of the world. 

It is very certain that Mohammedanism will have nothing 
to do with the city's future. Its six hundred years of posses- 
sion and its present deplorable condition warrant the assertion. 
Jerusalem has been ground under the heel of Moslem oppres- 
sors, in spite of the fact that as a holy city it is with them 
second only to Mecca. It would still be in the same deplorable 
condition were the Christian nations and their many Jewish 
subjects not becoming so much interested in it. Quietly the 
Jew and the Christian have been getting possession of desirable 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 195 

building sites and erecting- substantial structures. Less than 
half of the city within the walls is owned by Moslems, while 
hardlyany of the new city outside the walls is now in their hands. 
This desire to acquire Jerusalem real estate a desire that ani- 
mates Christians and Jews gives a strong indication of what 
the city of the future is to be. Its destiny is bound Lip with 
religion. For similar reasons Christian and Jew love it ; to 
each it is holy for what it has been ; it will become holier and 
greater still. — From " "Jerusalem the Holy," by special permission 
of the author, the I Ion. Edwin S. Wallace, late United States 
Consul for Palestine. 



My Irreverent Donkey at Olivet 

"The next day we went to Olivet and Gethsemane. I sup- 
pose it was all accident that I was given the donkey I rode, but 
it was an unfortunate accident for me. I am small and was 
dressed in black. He was a very small Jack, and was dressed 
in black also, so it seemed quite appropriate, but I am sorry to 
say that he had no respect for 'the cloth,' and behaved in a very 
frivolous and unseemly manner, calling needless attention to 
himself and me, and causing certain wordly people to laugh, 
in spite of the journey we were taking. First he insisted on 
rushing up to the front of the procession and getting ahead oi 
the guide. When I became indignant at his lack oi modesty, 
and reined him in strongly, then he went to the side of the 
road, up to a stone wall, and began to make preparations to 
brush me off his back. When I finally persuaded him to stop 
that, then he undertook to arrange the company to suit himself. 
Whenever he saw a couple riding close together (a man and 
his wife, for instance,) he would rush upon them from behind, 
and push and butt his way between them, till he got them sepa- 
rated far enough to meet his ideas, leaving me to apologize. 
With a curb bit and a club I might, perhaps, have restrained him, 
but, as it was, he had things pretty much hi-- own way. and he 
made the most of it. I think the only reason that he did 
not throw me over his head, was that he was so busy looking 
after the rest of the party, that it did not 0C ur to him to do it. 
He brought me to the Garden of Gethsemane in a very differ 
ent frame of mind from whal I desired." — Spencer. 



196 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 




Entrance to the Quarries of Solomon 



The Quarries of Solomon 

" A little north of the Damascus Gate the surface of the 
rock, which originally rose into a considerable ridge, is cut down 
on a line with the outside of the city wall, which passes over it. 
Under the arching strata is a narrow doorway, shored up with 
blocks of stone in a solid wall. Provided with necessary 
authority and guides, we enter. The way descends sharply, 
broadening out finally into a great cavern, the roof supported 
by piers of solid rock. 

Great blocks of stone lie about ; some as they were taken 
from the walls, others with sides smooth, as prepared for the 
building. Vertical slots cut deep into the rock by some sharp 
instrument, possibly like a laborer's pick-ax, indicate the means 
by which the great cubes were separated from the parent mass ; 
for into these clefts blocks of wood were driven, on which water 
was poured, causing them to expand with an irresistible force 
and split the rock asunder. 

There is a tradition anions; masons that in these caverns, 
so deep under the earth that there could not come from them the 
sound of ax, hammer or other metal tools, the stones of the 
Beautiful Temple were cut, squared and numbered, and con- 
veyed thence through some passage now lost to knowledge, 
direct to the temple area to be placed in position under the 
supervision of the widow's son ; also that here freemasonry 
began, and the first rites of the mystic brotherhood were enacted 
in one of these vaulted chambers when operative masons alone — 
and of such only those who hid passed through the great ordeal 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 197 

with becoming fortitude — joined in solemn commemoration of 
the tragedy in which they had themselves taken a part, and which, 
with its lessons and symbols, was to be enacted in after times 
in every land, and in almost every tongue on the face of the 
earth. Here the masons [of the Atler,~\ who from the far west 
had traveled east to the birth-place of the order, under flaring 
lights and with the dark approaches duly tiled, joined with their 
eastern brethren in the mystic ceremonies of the Mother Lodge. 
What transpired there is no secret — to those who are entitled 
to the knowledge." — From Stoddard ' s " Cruise of the Friesland," 




The Tomb of Absalom 

Description of the Masonic Meeting in the Quarries of Solomon 
" It was on March 15th, the clouds hung low over the hills 
of the Holy City and dripped their mist as though they always 
thus wept in silence, that the Masons of the Alter party, who 
hold sacred their oath, revere the ties that bind the mystic 
brotherhood and love that which bears on either myth or history 
of their order, were bidden to go to the Quarries of Solomon. 

fust opposite the Grotto of Jeremiah and within near eye- 
shot of the Holy Place of the Skull, to which most modern 
explorers point as the true Golgotha, and on beyond the Valley 
of [ehosophat, with the Mount of Olives as a shadow above 
between earth and sky, there is a hole in the foundation of the 
old city walls. If the Turkish Imam is gracious, he may granl 
a dispensation to the dog of a Giaour so that he may pass the 
heavy wooden barricade through which we enter the eternal 
bowels of the ancient town. The entrance is insignificant, bul 
that which is entered is sublime and awful, I here are galleries 



193 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



of wide extent, ami the vaulted rooms lose the eye beyond the 
limits of the flickering; light of torch or candle. This is where 
tradition, abetted not weakly or idly by history, avers that the 
stones for the first temple of Solomon and the subsequent 

temples as well were obtained. 

May be it was thirty centuries ago 
that the workers hewed and chipped and 
polished great cubes of stone in the gloom, 
all silence save for the clinking noise of 
the tools. Great heaps of stone chippings 
and debris and rubbish of the quarry 
remain, in some places thirty feet deep. 
At many places the huge stones are 
seemingly finished, but have been rejected 
and left there because of some slight flaw 
that did not escape the eye of the 




Church of the Lord's Prayer 



exacting overseer. 



Elsewhere the cubes are in the rough or half smoothed, 
while in the walls at many places are blocks partially cut out. 
On this afternoon only those who knew the cabalistic words 
could enter, but once in the dark chambers, so like silent halls 
of death, only relieved by muffled footfalls and the uncertain 
light of small candles or lamps of olive oil held by each visitor, 
the brothers seemed bound by a tie of newest and most realistic 
meaning. Here the wondrous great first Master presided, and 
so in careful imitation the officers of Solomon Mother Lod^e, 
No. 293, of Jerusalem, held a meeting in honor of the American 
masons of the Aller. It was a deeply solemn occasion. The 
lodge was opened in due form, the brothers kneeling and then 
standing in a circle, and after speeches from Occident and 
orient and words from polaris to the southern cross the lodge 
was closed. If the scene could have been pictured and trans- 
mitted to everv lod^e room in the world with the ringing 
masonic words that were spoken, it would be a message old 
and glissome. The impressiveness of the ceremonies and the 
sombre surroundings could not be carried to the outer light, no 
matter how eloquent the bearer. One of the chief features of 
the meeting was the speech of Worshipful Master Kayat, a 
good Arabian mason, and it is here given in full : 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



199 



Brethren : It is a happy occasion that has called us together. It is only 
a few weeks since this city of historic and masonic association beheld so 
numerous and distinguished a gathering of '-craftsmen." Our British guests, 
who were about 40 masons, under the leadership of Archdeacon Stevens, 
vicar of Stratford, masonic past grand chaplain, met with us here on this very 
spot on the third day of last month, and we had a very pleasant and successful 
meeting together. Also, three years have elapsed since our American guests, 
under the direction and management of our beloved and much esteemed 
friend and brother, Frank C. Clark, visited us, and we likewise held pleasant 
meetings then in these quarries, and now we, who are residents in this ancient 
centre of masonic science, are glad once again to extend a cordial and fraternal 
greeting, on the five points of fellowship to those others who, braving all 
dangers which beset the path of the true Mason, and all temptations which are 
only too ready to allure him from the path of duty, have, with rare persever- 
ance and fortitude, crossed sea and land in order to visit the site of the 
ancient temples of the great Architect of the Universe, and, as they survey 
the ruins of past ages, to gather inspiration from the memories of those work- 
men, who though now at rest, in this historic city, the centre of the three mono- 
theistic religions of the world, Islamism, Judaism and Christianity, used the 
tools of the workman and the builder, the 24-inch gauge, common gavel, 
square, level, chisel, skirret, etc., in order to raise a spiritual structure that in 
its turn should serve as a foundation for the achievement of others who, like 
us, are desirous of receiving "light." In your name, brethren of the Royal 
Solomon Mother Lodge, I address myself to our honored and welcome 
visitors here present and say : 

Brethren from the west, who have traveled eastward to this ancient centre 
of masonic science and light, accept our hearty felicitations on the most praise- 
worthy zeal which has brought you hither. In order to assist you in your 
researches for light during the short stay you must necessarily make with us, 
I would take the liberty of calling your attention to some of the most interest- 
ing points for your study. We are now assembled within the very quarry 
where the ancient craftsmen of King Solomon's days labored each in his little 
corner, illuminated only by a little oil lamp, the resting place and soot of 
which has remained to this day, in order to hew silently and unobserved { for 
all good work is silent and unobtrusive,) the 
great stones for that great edifice which was 
one of the wonders of the world, the chief 
centre of true spiritual and intellectual light, 
and which, though now in ruins, is one day 
(I trust not far distant) to be rebuilt by the 
exertions of brethren of the craft. The old 
masters have left the quarry, but you may still 
see the marks they left behind them, not only 
here, but in almost every nook and corner of 
the sacred city. Visit the Haram Area and 
there, underground indeed, but none the less 
intact and well preserved, you see the ancient 
gates of the ancient temple, whilst deep under- 
ground buried from eighty to one hundred and 
ten feet below the present surface lie the ancient 
and massive blocks which silently, without the 
sound of "metal" being heard, our brethren 
piled up as an enduring monument of their 




lord's /•■ 



200 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



Lord's Prayer Tablet 



knowledge and industry. Or, if you seek for 
more recent monuments of masonic skill, visit 
and study the ancient Abbey of St. Anne, 
just inside the gate of St. Stephen. Enter its 
great western gateway, and standing in the 
centre of the middle aisle, notice the remark- 
able one-sidedness of the structure, the little 
window over the high altar, the remarkable 
carvings on the capitals of the piers, and you 
will have had many an illustration of the 
wonderful way in which the ancient craftsmen 
succeeded in conveying through dead and life- 
less material, solemn and instructive lessons. 
Then visit the remains, at the Sisters of Zion ; 
at the Russian Hospice, east of the Church of 
the Holy Sepulchre; of the ruins cf the 
Knights of St. John's Palace, with its hosts 
of "mason's marks;", the hour-glass, the 
arrow, the gridiron, the richly-carved zodiac — 
and you will have a mass of masonic ideas 
surging through your mind which you will, 
in the short period of your visit here, have 
scarcely time to note down, much less to digest. Then, if you will, you 
can pass on to the church of the Holy Sepulchre. This is neither the time nor 
the place to discuss the question as to whether it is the genuine site. It is suf- 
ficient for us modern masons to know that at different periods during the last 
fifteen centuries, brethren of the craft not only helped to build the venerable 
pile and have left their marks upon it, but, sincerely believing it to be what it 
is said to be, laid down their lives in its defence. 

" Thev that were slain soar to kindred spirits." 

Elsewhere, in every part of the town, you meet with relics and monu- 
ments of the chivalrous and heroic Crusaders. Whatever your estimate of 
them and of their work be, remember that many of them were "masons," 
and worked according to the light vouchsafed them. 

" The knights' swords are rust, 
Their bones are dust, 
Their souls are with the saints, we trust." 

But why need I speak only of Christian "masons." Were there none 
amongst the ranks of Islam? Was not the knightly Salah-ud-din (Saladin) a 
true mason even though he may have never entered a masonic lodge ? — Ah 
brethren ! Your visit, short as it will be to this city, will not be without bene- 
fit to you, if, from your experiences here, you learn from the lives of those 
gone before, to " make your own sublime, 



And departing, leave behind you 
Footprints in the sands of time : 

Footprints, which perhaps another, 
Sailing o'er life's troubled main, 

A forlorn and lonely brother, 

Seeing, may take heart again." 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



201 



The Jerusalem Masonic Lodge was organized by a Ken- 
tuckian and exists by virtue of a charter granted by the Grand 
Lodge of Canada ; so Americans generally, as well as Allerites, 
must be somewhat interested. 

For long ages the entrance to the great quarries was lost 
and was discovered by an American quite by accident. He was 
hunting rabbits when his doo- chased one into a hole. Dio-o-ino- 
for the animal the persistent hunter discovered the long lost 
door. Miles of the quarry galleries have been explored and 
yet more remain unexplored. They seem to undermine the 
entire city. Just why the Moslems guard the great cave 
so zealously is not known. They say there was once a plot 
to store vast quantities of dynamite there and blow up Jeru- 
salem, that the plot was discovered barely in time to 
circumvent it, and that to prevent a recurrence of such a 
thing entrance to the quarries without a permit, very difficult 
to obtain, is interdicted. This is not believed to be the true 
reason, but may be as good as any to the public. At any rate, 
it is said that only once before was a masonic meeting per- 
mitted therein, and seldom, indeed, is an entrance effected by 
travelers, so the Aller Masons must suitably appreciate the 
honor paid them. Report has it that now and then rash visi- 
tors have gotten in and have become lost and perished, and 
also that aggravating court offenders have mysteriously disap- 
peared, and their disposition is darkly hinted at, entombment 
and slow starvation in the gruesome cavern. 

With all the interest centered there, and it is great, the 
light of day, and even the cold mist, tasted better to the 
Allerites than the musty, century-laden air of the Quarries of 
Solomon." — Chase S. Osbom. 



50 centimes POUR LES FOUILLES. 



PISCINE de BETH ESDA 

|gp R OBATIQUE.||f 

Le visileur qui desire hater le deblaiement de 

la piscine, est prie d' inscrire, sur le registrc, son 
nom et une offrande meme petite : elle sera recuc 
avec reconnaissance. 



o&. /My 



■•> 



202 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



Jordan and the Dead Sea 
" We got an early start and had a lovely day to make the 
twenty or thirty miles. The road was good to begin with and 
we went along at a smart pace over the winding mountain 
road, about the only decent one, it is said, in Palestine. We 
are going to and through the land of thieves, and for protection 
we have some of the thieves, with double-barreled shot-guns 
and daggers and horse pistols, with us. This is a matter of fore- 
sight on the part of the thoughtful Turk. On, on we ride 
through this "wilderness of Judea." At the foot of the hill we 
halt at the fountain of the Apostles. This is a general halting 




The Valley of the Jordan 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 203 

station for pilgrims and tourists, but to-day it is not crowded. 
Trains of donkeys, camels, horses, all loaded, pass us, carrying 
meat, wheat, wood, charcoal, etc. The half-way house is 
reached at last. The house of the Good Samaritan, where the 
poor man who fell among thieves was entertained for two 
pence. It is on the top of a hill on the right of the road. The 
hotel consists ot three jagged stone walls and a hole in the 
rock. Two oranges at this place cost ten cents. What it 
would cost to stay over night we cannot imagine. It is proper 
for us to meditate upon the great advance in hotel rates since 
the Samaritan's time. Here we met a large number of our 
party who were returning sad, weary, disappointed and wet and 
in a frame of mind over the condition of the roads. 

Nearing Jericho, we were delighted to see a brook of clear 
flowing water, which was the brook Cherith, by which Elijah 
dwelt and was fed by the ravens. Its banks, 500 feet below 
us, were fringed with trees and green bushes. The mountain 
side was steep and the mountains themselves rugged, seamed 
and wrinkled. 

We are rapidly approaching the scene of the passage of the 
Israelites into the promised land. Crossing the brook Cherith 
with some difficulty over large smooth stones, famous Jericho 
is reached. There are three hotels where we leave our Intro-acre. 
The village is a distressing looking place. There are about 
300 Jerichoans, and many of them are very scantily clad. We 
stopped only a few minutes, then rode on through the plain 
with brushwood on both sides of us. The stony banks were 
reached. There were one or two booths where refreshments 
were served, and we had quite a good meal. Bread, butter 
which would run like molasses, chicken, beef, Jordan fish, nuts 
and raisins. While we were there men brought to the restau- 
rant a fine string of fish fresh from the sacred stream. 1 tunters 
also brought in an animal about two feet long, which, as I 
understood Arabic perfectly, I guessed was an opossum. There 
were present here quite a number of Russian pilgrims, and with 
their priest they held a service at the very edge ot the muddy 
stream. They washed their feet in the Jordan, and these same 
were of remarkably large size. 

I contented myself with clambering over the bo. its on the 
stream, washing my hands and sinking in the mud, which is 



204 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 




At the Dead Sea 



plentiful and prevents an easy approach to the water. The 
stream is about 200 feet wide at this point and seems anxious 
to reach the Dead Sea, which is three or four miles below. It 
is not the cool, clear, quiet, babbling brook that my mind had 
pictured since my grandmother's time. 

Brush, thick with tangle and bamboo, line 
the banks, of which banks the farther is almost 
perpendicular. One of our party the day before, 
an old gentleman from San Francisco, 
lost himself completely in the thicket, 
and for an hour wandered about in 
the brush, which is said to be infested 
with hyenas, jackals, wild boars 
and villainous Bedouins. The 
terror of the old gentleman 
from the wild West can be 
imagined. At last, however, 
he emerged, red with shouting 
and streaming with perspiration. 

There is on the shore one hut which no one seems to use, 
except for shade. It was cooler here. The wind blew in from 
the clear, restless sea, and it is far more pleasant than at the 
Ford of the Jordan. The beach is lined with beautiful round, 
smooth stones, worn into strange shapes by the incessant move- 
ment of the waves. There is dead wood a few feet up from 
the water's edge, forming a fringe of white. All about are sea- 
shells and more or less asphalt. Mountains encircle this site 
of Sodom and Gomorrah, and opposite and south of us are 
Mountains Nebo and Pisrah. We are told that there are 
numerous and valuable mineral springs, many of them hot and 
excellent for bathing. 

It would be an Eastern Saratoga, and better, but for the 
Sultan, who is the private owner of all this estate from the 
Jordan to Jericho, and who, of course, objects to any improve- 
ment. Enterprising capitalists have tried to buy or rent this 
vast garden, but without success. The Sultan prefers beggary 
and desolation. The natives are in a very low state of devel- 
opment in this valley, which should and could blossom as the 
rose. Palestine has a wonderful possibility, a wonderful variety 
of climate and production, and some time when the Jew recovers 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



205 



his lost land, or when a Christian nation becomes its possessor, 
we shall hear of great things. I wandered up and down the 
beautiful beach, and waded in the waters of the sea so clear that 
I could pick curious stones from beneath the surface of the 
water. One can wade here without fear of losing his toes as 
choice morsels for crabs or snapping-turtles, or even sharks, and 
one can swim here, likewise, without any fear of drowning, so 
buoyant is the water from the oreat amount of salt. 

J O 

The sea has no outlet, and all it loses is by evaporation, 
which leaves the salt in solution. The specific gravity, there- 
fore, is very great. A bath is a good test of the weight of a 
man's brain. If his head is empty there is no trouble to keep 
upright and level-headed ; but all of our party showed a ten- 
dency to reverse the usual order of things, thus showing that 
the brains of the Alley party were not in their feet. 

While wading- I rilled two wine-bottles with the bitter salt 
sea-water for future reference. I wanted to remain here longer 
and take in the situation, but our Dragoman kept hurrying us, 
inventing reasons for early departure — a performance they are 
equal to under all circumstances. 

We return to the ill-fated Jericho, the land of Elisha, 
Elijah, and miracles. Here the she-bears disposed of thought- 
less boys who made fun of the bald-headed man. Here the 
iron axe swam in the Jordan. Here we drank sweet water 
from the fountain of Elisha which he healed with salt. This 
fountain supplies all the city of Jericho with drinking-water, and 
earthen jars and goat-skin bottles were very common there- 
about. The mount of Christ's temptation is said to be back ot 
the city, as well as Elisha's Fountain. After a course dinner, 
which was very excellent, we retired to our rooms, examining 
first the ominous notice on the bed-room door which stated that 
the proprietor would not be responsible for any valuables not 
left with him. I regarded it not, 
and for two reasons. Firstly, I 
would not trust him ; secondly, I 
had no valuables with which to 
trust him. 

About two o'clock I was 
awakened by a hard wind storm 
which had blown open the windows 




liuo Hoosicrs on Jot 



206 Jerusalem and Thereabouts 

and was banging the door with vigor. In some of the rooms the 
glass was blown in, and the house actually rocked perceptibly 
from the force of the storm of wind and rain. It was seven 
o'clock when we started for Jerusalem, and two hours later than 
we intended. In the brook Cherith our horses balked ; the 
driver shouted and lashed in vain. We crawled out one by one 
over the dash-board and jumped to terra firma. After the 
driver had hammered his horse's head with smooth stones and 
everything within reach, and after two bare-legged sons of the 
wilderness had put their shoulders to the front wheels, we at 
last got started. We reached Jerusalem in due time, and 
were glad indeed to make for our hotel and call it 
home." — Pa rke. 

Through Samaria and Galilee on Horseback 

The modes of travel are so manifold, in these times of 
invention and progress, that anyone contemplating a tour over- 
land, especially in America or Europe is not thought singular 
if he hesitates before deciding the question : How shall I make 
the journey ? 

But if the tourist wants to make his way through Samaria 
and Galilee, and chooses not to go on foot, and refuses the 
camel and the donkey he must go on horseback. 

Just when the French horse was introduced into Palestine 
for travel I know not, but he is there now and doubtless will 
stay while the Sultan of Turkey rules, for he is opposed to 
change. The horse is below the medium in size and rather fleet 
and also sure footed and can climb the mountain passes quite 
readily. It was on the morning of March 7, 1898, that the 
bugle call in front of Howard's Hotel in Jerusalem announced 
the hour for making ready for the journey. A half hour was 
given us during which time each was busy selecting his horse 
and making the acquaintance of his muleteer. I had previously 
" feed " a guide to secure for me a good horse, and when I was 
ready for mounting my steed the guide made his way through 
the jam of horses, mules, donkeys, men, boys and tourists, 
myself following. 

He stopped at a raw-boned, weak jointed, spavined and 
flea-bitten gray saying, " Here's your hoss." I at once 
demurred. He then found a rather pretty chestnut sorrel, and 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



207 



to secure this one I again rave the muleteer " Backsheesh" where- 
upon he assured me by all that was good and bad, that he 
would keep it for me while I went into the hotel for a piece of 
bao-o-ao-e. 

oo o 

On returning I could find neither horse nor muleteer. He 
had sold out to another party and had also sold me. In my 
desperation I made diligent search and found a charming look- 
ing bay and without asking any question mounted. But 1 had 
no sooner done this than two muleteers, one on either side, 
laid hold of the bridle rein, each claiming; the horse and having- 
turned him around, they lead him back to the hitching rack, 
while I, of course, was at their mercy, or rather meanness. 




His cArab Steed 



They were wanting a fee and I was making their acquaintance. 
At this stage of affairs Mr. Herbert Clark came upon the scene 
and hailed me, saying, " Why do you not go out into the street 
where the procession is forming? " I replied most feelingly, " I 
very much want to do that, but under existing circumstances 
cannot." He righted matters at once, and soon 1 was in the 
line of the procession sitting proudly on my bay, And my 
horse "David," as some of my friends were pleased to name 
him, proved to be one of the best in the company. 

At 8 A. M. of this day the bugle sounded the note for the 
movement of the caravan, and with high hopes and in gleeful 
spirit we rode out of the city. Of tourists there were fifty-five, 
eighteen of whom were ladies. This company required one 
conducter, Mr. Lewis; four dragomen, Solomon, [acob, Joseph 



208 Jerusalem and Thereabouts 

and George ; twenty muleteers and thirty-two additional men 
to manage the tent equipage and provide wholesome meals and 
luncheons ; in all there were one hundred and twelve persons. 
To move this company and the necessary equipments one hun- 
dred and twelve horses and mules, twenty donkeys and one 
palanquin were required. We took our journey northward 
over the usual caravan route, passing on the left the hill of 
Calvary with the Damascus Gate on the right. 

Passing a cavern on the hill side we glance at it and are 
told that it is the grotto of Jeremiah and with a backward look 
again scan the entrance to the Quarries of Solomon opposite. 
A little later we pass the tombs of the kings and very soon we 
were making the ascent of Mt. Scopos, which is practically one 
with the Mt. of Olives on the south. 

Here a halt was called that we might look once more upon 
the city of Mt. Zion. Doubtless our conductor thought for 
most of us, if not all, it would be our last view of a scene 
unequaled in the world. In silence we looked upon it. Beyond 
the near hills to the east is the valley of the Jordan, the river 
itself lying hid under its skirting woods of balsam and tamarisk ; 
the grand view being bounded on the farther side, by the 
mountains of Moab, which change color with every passing 
cloud, sometimes melting into the blue distance, again taking 
on a misty grey, while at their foot gleams here and there between 
the intervening mountain tops, the clear blue water of the 
famous Dead Sea. To the south was Bethlehem, of such sweet 
and tender memory, and beyond this, a little farther southwest, 
a lower range of hills, and though not in sight we knew that 
just over their brow was Hebron. 

Looking westward we could see the hills of the wilderness 
of Judea, in the midst of which is Ain Karim, the birth place of 
John the Baptist and the place where was heard "the voice of 
one crying in the wilderness." 

Just back of us on the sloping hillside east is Bethany. 
After this wider sweep of our vision the eye finally rests upon 
the city itself while the mind recalls scenes of unparalleled 
interest. A look once more is given to Gethsemane and a 
glance off yonder, north from Damascus Gate and outside of 
the city, at the Hill of Calvary and as we turn from this 
enchanting scene to take a final view of the city and the Mount 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



209 



of Olives and the place of ascent, we can almost hear again 
the chanting call, " Lift up your heads, O ye gates, and be ye 
lift up, ye everlasting doors, and the King of Glory shall come 
in," or see in imagination as we stand gazing, with uplifted eye, 
"Jesus ascend up into Heaven." 

Where in all the world can you find such another picture — 
even forgetting the associated history — such a picture of such 
wonderful and varied beauty. One may travel far and not find 
it. But though all this was left behind there was much, very 




' And behold, there was a great earthquake : for the angel of the Lord descended from 
Heaven, and came and rolled back the stone from the door " 



much before us, as we follow the old caravan route from 
Jerusalem to Damascus, not a carriage drive but a path for a 
pilgrim. 

An hour's ride and we reach ancient Gibeah of Benjamin, 
where the sons of Saul were murdered, among whom were two 
of Rizpah's sons. We read: " She took sackcloth and spread 
it upon the rock, from the be<dnnin<r of harvest until the water 
dropped upon them out of heaven, and suffered neither the 
birds of the air to rest on them by day nor the beasts ol the 
field by night." So were the rocks of Gibeah made classic by 
this mother's stroiiL r instinct. 



210 Jerusalem and Thereabouts 

To the left, one mile and more distant, came into view his- 
toric Mizpah, the seat of Samuel's power and judgeship in 
Israel, and where was first heard the benediction, now being 
voiced around the world by the Christian Endeavorers, "The 
Lord watch between me and thee when we are absent one from 
another." 




Lunch and a snap-shot between shoivers 

Next we pass through Ramah, celebrated in sacred history 
because of a woman, " Deborah, the prophetess, who judged 
Israel after the death of Ehud." We read, "From this palm 
tree of Deborah went forth the influence which led to one of 
the most brilliant victories in Israel's glorious history — a vic- 
tory which shattered the power of Jabin, King of Canaan, and 
gave to the oppressed and suffering land rest and freedom for 
forty years." As we journey on, having in mind that we are 
traversing the ancient route which the pilgrims of Samaria and 
Galilee used when they went to Jerusalem to attend the national 
feasts, we were not surprised to pass the village El Birch, where 
the child Jesus was first missed by His parents on their return 
to Nazareth. The place is only a day's journey from Jerusalem, 
and blessed with a spring of water where pilgrims are still 
prone to halt and refresh themselves, as we ourselves did. 

We found Shiloh, the birthplace of Samuel, and where the 
Tabernacle was first erected, a scene of utter desolation, as was 
also Bethel, where on our first day out we lunched at noon. 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



211 



It was here that Jacob, being wear)', " took of the stones of 
that place and put them for his pillows, and lay down in that 
place to sleep," and where God came to him in the wonderful 
dream of the ladder, connecting heaven and earth, and promis- 
ing very great things for him. No wonder that he named the 
place Bethel and vowed faithfulness unto his God. Had it been 
night instead of day possibly some of us might have tried a 
stone for a pillow. 

As we journeyed on, the way began to be rugged, passing 
through sharp ravines and exceedingly rough places. Hills 
which were once terraced and fruitful valleys once "flowing 
with milk and honey" were now quite barren. No shelter is 
afforded us from either sun or rain, nor was it to be found in 
the villages of huts and hovels located on the hills for the pro- 
tection of the people, where still the armed sheiks and tax- 
gatherers demand and collect what they please. 

We met an occasional caravan making its way across 
plains over the great hills and through the rocky passes. 

After a charming day and scenery of striking beauty and 
interest we rode into camp at Singil near four o'clock, finding 
all in readiness for us. The tents being numbered we knew 
just where to locate. And how delicious the tea and the sweet 
crackers to hungry tourists, only they know who have had 
similar experience. 















' 


% „s 


\S0ik 


gj i 


*^JL 












* *•"! 




.-v.. 

Bt~ 







Shiloh 



Then, until the dinner hour, some were writing letters, 
others making notes of the way, a few resting in their tents, 
while yet others hied themselves away to the rocks near by and 
sang hymns and patriotic songs. This was an hour not to be 
forgotten. Dinner over, the camp-fire was lightedand all made 
merry. A crowd of natives visited us, which added much to the 



212 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



evening's interest. We sang, and the Arab children responded. 

They wanted backsheesh, and we returned the compliment by 

passing the hat, but we were not any richer, save in amusement. 

On March 8th, Tuesday, by 7 A. M., we were in the saddle, 







Jacob's Well 



and, being refreshed after a good night's rest, we hastened on 
to the historic site of Jacob's well, where we lunched and spent 
the noon hour. After luncheon the company divided into 
groups, and the beautiful story in the fourth chapter of St. John 
was read. The depths of our hearts were broken up as prob- 
ably nowhere else, for this was the very well where Christ met 
the woman of Samaria, hence very sacred. To gather about 
the well and draw and drink of those same waters was the 
privilege of a lifetime. 

In the afternoon we ride on toward the city of Nablous or 
ancient Shechem, and on the way pass between the mountains 
of Ebal and Gerizim. Here once were gathered the tribes of 
Israel to listen to Joshua, the veteran leader, while he read the 
laws of blessing. On Mt. Gerizim the tribes of Simeon, Levi, 
Judah, Issachar, Joseph and Benjamin ; on Ebal those of Reu- 
ben, Gad, Asher, Zebulon, Dan and Naphtali each responding 
" Amen." A most impressive scene it must have been. 

It was suggested to our party that we divide and climb the 
mountains and enact the ancient scene and test the acoustic 
qualities of this great natural amphitheatre, but being weary 
and anxious to get into camp again, we hastened on. 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



213 



Nablous is a curious old place, but delightfully situated, 
being surrounded with mountains ami rugged hills, Mowing 
waters and fertile valleys. 

During the reign ot the Emperor Vespasian, Shechem 
was rebuilt and named Neopolis (new city), which appellation 
has passed into the Arabic Nablous, the modern name it now 
bears. 

It is noted for the manufactory ol soap, there brine- as 
many as seven factories located in the city, fudging from the 
appearance ol the people, we concluded th.it it was all 
exported, none being used for home consumption. The only 
synagogue of Samaritans in the world is at Nablous — they 
number about one hundred and fifty people and have in their 
possession a copy ot the Samaritan Pentateuch, written 
according to their claim, by the son of Phineas, thirty-five 
hundred years ago. Like [ericho, "thieves abound there," 
and before night fell one of the tents was entered for plunder, 
but the screams of the occupants frightened them away. VVc 
met a Baptist missionary from England, who is endeavoring to 
sow the seed i )i the gospel in that held, but the opposition is 
one of hatred, so that the work is difficult. 




214 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 




" Tickling the earth tiiith the ola fashioned one pronged plough ' 



"T» March 9th. Wednesday morning we enter upon our 
journey clad in gossamers, mackintoshes, etc., for the wind was 
blowing, and already the rain was descending and for two days 
and more storms beat heavily upon us. We could realize 
better than ever before Christ's words : " The rains descended, 
the floods came and the winds blew." 

Hail, lightning and tempest met us, our horses would 
turn around to protect themselves, umbrellas were turned 
inside out and in one or two instances blown from the stock. 

Thus we ride through the hours of the day, stopping a 
little while near 10 A. M. to visit Samaria, which for so lono- 
was the Capital of the kingdom of Israel. The situation is 
quite picturesque. On the top of the hill, where was the city, 
is a broad plateau, and around the base a rich valley of five 
or six miles in extent. It has now a population of four 
hundred. 

There are here two objects of special interest ; one the 
remains of a church dedicated to the memory of John the 
Baptist. The roof of the building is wanting, and only the 
walls remain. It is evidently as old as the Crusaders, and 
because so many forms of crosses still remain, we conclude that 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



215 



it was built by the Knights of St. [ohn. We were shown a 
vault where our guides tell us St. )<>hn was imprisoned and a 
tomb where he was buried. 

The other place of interest is the ruins of lb-rod's 
palace, ot which many columns remain, showing the extent 
of the ground tor palace and theatre. But, according to the 
prophet Isaiah, "tin- glorious beauty, which was on the head 
of the tat valley, has become a fading (lower and as the hasty 
fruit before the summer." And so also Micah declares. •• I 



' 1* *ik 



UB 





;,*, 












■ 



will make Samaria as an heap ol the field and as plantings ol a 
vineyard; and I will pour down the stones thereof into the 
valley and I will discover the foundations thereof." \ erily < iod 
fulfils I lis word. 

As we pass through Dothan we think ol I h wonder 
tul vision, ' the mountain ; full ol i hariol , ol I re and hor i 

Neither did we forget the vale round about where Joseph s 
brethren took their father's Hock. Here, too, we recalled the 
story ol |oseph's misfortune, and at the ;ame time piai .ed ( mxI 
lor die care lie look of the bo\ and the men. ,\s we I'ode 
along we talked of the cattle once catlend over the 
; of t he son .of Jacob it tin; under the .hi' |e ol ,i iiiii' 



216 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



great tree and watching their flocks ; of the boy Joseph, in his 
many-colored coat, hastening across the fields to meet his 
brethren, and, indeed, the whole, tragical story passed in review 
before us. 

The merchants on their way to and from Egypt, Arabs and 
Bedouins we call them to-day, would not hesitate any more 
than then to do the same things. Their desire is just the 
same. They sell the same things now. They come from 
Gilead and still go down to Egypt, selling spices, balm and 
myrrh, and if a company of shepherds would to-day offer to sell 
a smart boy, just as Joseph's brothers did, they would find many 
a ready purchaser. Sin remains the same and the religion of 

Mahomet does not improve 
the people. At the noon hour, 
because of the storm, we 
lunched on horseback, having- 
baked chicken, hard bread, 
hard boiled eggs and one 
orange each. Camping for 
the night at Jenin will not be 
forg-otten. Torrents of rain 
until the tents were flooded 
with water ! How cheerful was 
the camp-fire that evening, and 
how essential to comfort and 
health only those know who had made the journey of the 
day. I shall ever remember the kind woman who furnished me 
a pair of her husband's dry darned socks, and the good 
friends who invited me to their tent after dinner to enjoy with 
them a charcoal fire. 

Thursday, March ioth, we crossed the plain of EsdraTon, 
the great battlefield of Palestine. It has an extent of twenty 
by thirty miles, reaching to the Mediterranean on the west and 
to the mountains of Gilboa on the east. 

From Jehu's rapid driving across the plain, as described in 
II. Kings, we have even to this day the phrase, " He drives like 
Jehu." As we cross the stream how could we but remember 
with very special interest Gideon's army reduced from 32,000 
to 300, and hear again the cry, " The sword of the Lord and of 
Gideon." 




Mary's luell at Nazareth 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



217 



As we gallop across the plain, Nazareth, which we were 
anxious to reach, finally comes in view. It was pleasant to 
behold this fair city, the home of Joseph and Mary and the 
child Jesus, on that bright sunlit afternoon. Horse and rider 
both seemed happy to approach the historic place nestling 
amonp- the hills. From the brow of the hill southward, as we 
look across the plains cultivated in garden terraces to the hills 
and mountains beyond, the view is superbly grand. 

We no longer dwell in tents, but during our stay in Naza- 
reth lodge in a new hospice conducted by Greek priests, where 
everything was scrupulously neat and clean. It so happened 
that we were the first to occupy it, and thought the waiters were 
inexperienced and easily confused specially when everyone at 
the table wanted eggs at the same time ; we enjoyed our stay 
very much. Soon after our arrival we were taken to the Chapel 
of the Virgin, where we were shown Mary's kitchen and dining- 
room hewn out of the rock ; then, to the Fountain of the Virgin, 
and later to the carpenter shop. 

Friday, March i ith. When making ready for our ride to 
the Sea of Galilee we were somewhat annoyed by a strike of 
muleteers demanding additional backsheesh. But, matters being 
adjusted, we left in the midst of a severe storm of rain, which 
increasing in force caused some to turn back. Only three of 
the eighteen ladies ventured to continue the journey on that 
day ; some made the trip later, on Monday. 

On our way Mary's childhood home was sighted, also 
that of the prophet Jonah. The sun suddenly coming from 
behind the clouds, we all began singing, " Praise God. from 
whom all blessings flow," and many joined in word and spirit. 
At Cana of Galilee we stopped for a half hour, passing, just 
before entering the village, a fountain whence came, most 
likely, the water which Christ used when turning the water 
into wine. 




Dmun to the Sej of Galilee 



218 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 



During the day we passed olive orchards and saw flocks of 
sheep and goats and herds of cattle and herders as in the 
ancient times. In the afternoon we reached the Horns of 
Hattan, now thought to be the Mount of Beatitudes, where the 
last battle of the Crusaders was fought when they were van- 
quished by the Turks. The view of Mt. Hermon from this 
elevation is singularly beautiful. Far up to the north it stood, 
robed in a glorious mantle of snow ; silent and in solemn 
grandeur, it seemed to stand sentinel overall the upper portion 

''■ The Assyrian came down like the wolf on the fold, 
And his cohorts were gleaming in purple and gold, 
And the sheen of their spears was like stars on the sea, 
Where the blue waves roll nightly on deep Galilee." 




The Sea of Galilee 

The •view is taken from a point near where the River Jordan begins its course to the 
Dead Sea. The buildings on the left are old Roman baths. At the right is Tiberias 



of that goodly land. The scene was refreshing to the eye and 
the picture lingers enchantingly in memory's chamber. 
As we looked eastward the " Deep blue sea of Galilee," so rich 
in historic interest, came into our view. Descending from the 
Mount of Beatitudes we were soon galloping over the road 
leading down to the sea and through the streets of Tiberias, 
the only town now on those shores. Here in a hospice we 
tarried for the night. Ruins mark the site of Capernium and 
Magdala, the most deserted and filthy places we visited. 
Though the devils were cast out of Mary Magdalene they cer- 
tainly were not banished from this region. The shores of the 
sea are desolate, but the waters are as in the days of Christ. 
Over its waters we rowed and toiled and some of us fished. 



Jerusalem and Thereabouts 219 

After luncheon and gathering of shells at Magfdala we 
returned to Nazareth, where, if all felt as I did, we parted from 
our horses with sincere regret. My steed, " David," had carried 
me 150 miles without a balk. He never went back on me as 
he had ample opportunity, while going up hills that nearly 
approached the perpendicular, nor tossed me over his head in 
going down, and whenever there was a spot half level and 
smooth enough for a run, a hint for the race was all he needed. 
May he always have plenty to eat and the kindest of treatment. 

The Sabbath was a day of worship and rest with us. On 
Monday we were driven in carriages to Haifa where on a high 
sea we found our ship Alter awaiting us. Being safely piloted 
to the ship we were soon off for joppa, to meet and welcome 
those from Jerusalem, who did not take the horseback trip 
through Samaria and Galilee. 

Mingled feelings possessed me as I realized my pilgrimage 
a thing of the past, — now a memory and not an anticipation. 
Sacred history had unrolled its centuries before our eyes as we 
traveled and the panorama of divine manifestation among the 
holy places of the earth had been made vividly real to us. 

For me it fixed most indellibly the truth of the 
Scriptures, while making real the story of the patriarchs and 
prophets and the life and work ot Christ and his disciples. — 
Rev. IV. A. Hutchinson, D. D. 



ASIA MINOR 
Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 



ASIA MINOR 

Bibliography— Ephesus 

Ramsay, Prof. W. M. Historical Geography of Asia Minor. London (Murray), 

1890. (Royal Geographical Suppl. Papers, Vol. IV.) Represents a dozen 

years' work. Most important archaeological work written in England during 

the nineteenth century. 
Ferguson, J. The Temple of Diana at Ephesus. With special reference to Wood. 

London, 1883. 
Wood, Rev. J. T. Modern Discoveries on the Site of Ancient Ephesus. New 

York, 1890. 
Burnaby, Col. Fred. On Horseback Through Asia Minor. London (Low), 

1899. 
Bingham, Cliye. A Ride Trough Western Asia. Illustrations and Maps. New 

York (Macmillan). 
Smyrna. See Buckley, Mark Twain, Baedeker, Murray, etc. 

Periodicals 

Dardanelles, Through the. C. Warman. McClures, Vol. 6, p. 103. 

Ephesus and the Temple of Diana. Temp. Bar., Vol. 104, p. 355. Living Age 

(Boston), Vol. 205, p. 153. 
Smyrna as It Is. F. W. Holland. Hunt's Merchants' Magazine (New York), Vol. 

25, p. 452. 

Damascus 

Damascus, Palmyra and Lebanon. 18 illustrations. (Account of five years' resi- 
dence.) London. 

Five Years in Damascus. 2 vols. London. 

Damascus: The Oldest City in the World. (E. W. G. Masterman) Biblical Wold 
(Chicago), Vol. 12, p. 71, August, 1898. 

Beirut 

"At nine o'clock we left the harbor of Acre, and when we 
arose this morning, March 17th, St. Patrick's Day, Beirut was 
smiling" upon us from its position on the hill. The smile was 



_ 




■Beirut 



short. Soon it began to rain, threatening the morning's 
antic'pated pleasure. Mr. Clark was on deck and urged 
every one to go and see " the only civilized city of Turkey." 



( 223 ) 



224 Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 

Three of us walked through the town and out to the 
Syrian Protestant College, whose President, Rev. Daniel Bliss, 
D.D., we met. He conducted us about personally through the 
chapel, museums, reading rooms, etc. The young men were 
bright, intelligent Syrians, [300 in number according to the cata- 
logue]. I found them studying algebra, and one was poring 
over "imaginary quantities" treated in English, just as our 
book does it. Strange to say, they use the same general his- 
tory as is used in Easton Academy. We talked with several, 
and had two underscore their names in the catalogue of 1897, 
which was presented. This is a Presbyterian Institution and is 
doing a wonderful work in civilizing and upbuilding, where such 
work is much needed. 

This city of 100,000 people is the centre of missionary 
spirit and activity. 

There is a printing establishment in Beirut, which is printing 
Bibles in great numbers in the Arabic language and distributing 
the word where it is doing good. Some who visited the place 
were given a piece of type on which was the word for Jehovah. 

The college of which I have written is under the same care 
as Lafayette has about the same number of students, and is 
situated somewhat the same, though with more beautiful views 
of sea and lofty mountains. The grounds, covered with trees 
and gardens and tennis courts, commands a beautiful prospect 
of the blue Mediterranean Sea and of the snow-capped 
Lebanon mountains. This seaport, the most important of all 
Syria, was founded by the Phoenicians at a very early date. 
The American mission has been established for fifty-two years, 
and the college was established in 1866." — Parke. 

The visit to Beirut will be ever memorable to some of 
the Allerites for the courtesy and kindliness extended to them 
by the faculty and students of the Syrian Protestant College. 
It was like meeting old friends and getting in touch with Ameri- 
can ways and manners. Especially will the visit live in the 
memory of certain members of the party, because of the exceed- 
ing hospitality extended to them in the beautiful Christian home 
of Dr. and Mrs. Bliss. Far away from friends and kindred the 
frank kindliness and restful hospitality was very sweet and is 
pleasant to remember. It is gratifying to the compiler to be 
able to place in the book an excellent picture of the courageous 



Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 



225 



scholar and courtly gentleman, President Daniel Bliss, D. D., 
under whose able administration for more than a quarter of a 
century the work at Beirut has gone on to success and wide 
influence. 




Damascus 

" Fair Damascus on the fertile banks • 
Of Abana and Pharphar, lucid streams. ' ' 

— Milton' s Paradise Lost, Book I. 

Damascus, a city of about 200,000 inhabitants to-day, 
stands first of all the cities of the Bible in respect to the length 
of its history. It is mentioned in Genesis and evidently was in 
existence many hundreds of years before Athens or Rome were 
thought of, and to-day is by far the chief city of Syria. Twice 
it has been the capital of great empires and at one time its 
dominion reached from the shores of the Atlantic to the Indian. 
Two great Biblical names are connected with it, namely, Elisha 
the Prophet and St. Paul the Apostle. The city has existed 
and prospered under Persian despotism, Grecian anarchy and 
Roman patronage and it exists and prospers still despite 
Turkish oppression and misrule. 



226 



Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 




On the Way to Damascus 



Damascus is reached by a railway 70 miles long, ascend- 
ing 5000 feet in 23 miles, from Beirut over the Anti- Lebanon 
mountains and then down through a deep winding valley by 
the river Barada, the ancient Abana of Naaman's time and the 
secret of her present and guarantee of her future prosperity. 
The river Barada, the ancient Abana, rising in the heart of the 
Anti-Lebanon mountains out of a deep pool 300 by 50 yards, 
descending over a 1000 feet in 23 miles as it approaches 
Damascus, is divided by an ancient system of dams and aque- 
ducts into seven streams, some lying at different levels, but 
spreading fan wise all over the plain for the purpose of water- 
ing the gardens and the court yards and the houses of the city. 

The Pharphar may be a small stream not far from Damas- 
cus, watering the same plain. The contrast suggested to 
Naaman was that of the immense fertility produced by his two 
clear mountain streams as still illustrated to-day and the 
comparative uselessness of the deep, muddy Jordan. 

Damascus of today, though "fair from far," is usually a 
disappointment on near acquaintance. The streets with a few 
exceptions, are narrow, crooked, badly paved and often dirty. 
The houses, as seen from the streets, as a rule consist of brown 
mud walls, low doors and mean latticed windows. 

The exteriors of the houses are, however, deceptive, for 
the interior is often as maonifkent as the outside is mean. On 
entering a house one usually descends a few steps, an arrange- 
ment necessitated on account of the water — the street has risen 
as the years ran on, but the courtyard must keep low enough 



Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 



227 



to receive the running water. Passing along a short passage 
and round a sharp turning one enters most unexpectedly a 
beautiful courtyard. The courts of all the better houses have 
a large open pool in the centre, built up two or three feet from 
the ordinary level and covered outside with marble and sup- 
plied with running water ; the whole floor is covered with 




The River Barada 



General VielV of Damascus 



Straight Street Bazaar 



228 



Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 



colored marble or other stones, and grouped around are lemon, 
citron, oranoe and other trees. The doors and windows of the 
rooms open upon the court, and in the case of richer men — 
especially Moslems — there is an inner and often more magni- 
ficent court, perhaps even two or three beyond. Of the rooms 
the lower ones especially are inhabited in the summer, but in 
the winter they often become so damp from the moisture under 
the floors that those in the upper story are preferred. These 




Court of a House in Damascus 



upper rooms are generally very flimsy structures, being built 
of wood and mud bricks. The winters are usually short, and 
the rainfall is much less than in Palestine proper, so that the 
people do not suffer much inconvenience from the unsuitability 
of their houses to the cold. 

The bazaars are famous all over the east. The " Greek " 
bazaar has now many shops with plate glass windows, but the 
great majority retain something of their primitive appearance 
and mode of doing business. As everywhere in the east, the 
trades of special kinds are grouped together, so that the 
" silver bazaar," " the cotton bazaar," " the shoemakers' bazaar," 



Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 229 

" the saddlers' bazaar," etc., are the exclusive places for obtain- 
ing those particular goods. Many of the most frequented 
bazaars are covered-in streets, so that the cold and wet of 
winter and the hottest rays of the summer sun are thus 
excluded. A considerable section of "straight street" is 
thus roofed over, and in it and the numerous covered-in side 
streets a purchaser can pass dry-shod in all directions till he 
completes his purchases. — A. J. P. McC. 




" Then the Disciples took Paul by nighl and let him down by the wall in a basket " 



Smyrna 
"Saturday morning, March 19th, found Smyrna smiling 
upon us. Smyrna, the city of figs and rugs and drugs. As one 
enters the beautiful harbor, he notices first, Mt. Pagus and the 
old battered citadel on the crest. There are fine groves of 
cypress trees, which appropriately adorn the beautiful ceme- 
teries. The tomb of Polycarp, with a single large cypress is 
pointed out. The last words of this saint will explain why he 
perished at the stake, ' Eighty and six years I have served Him 
(Christ) and he hath never wronged me, how then can 1 blas- 
pheme my king who hath saved me ? " 

Boats and steam launches landed us at the whart. One- 
horse street cars took us a mile to the English railroad station 
to Ephesus. 



230 



Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 




Little Breeches 



A young few at the depot told us that Smyrna 
contains 400,000 people: 100,000 Jews, 150,000 Turks 
and 50,000 Armenians. There did not seem to be 
sympathetic feeling here for the Armenians, who were 
said to be in the wrong. Still, it is hard to see why 
they should be slaughtered by the wholesale. 

Our ride took us for fifty-two miles through fine, 
cultivated plains and meadows, flanked on each side by 
mountains, which were without trees but covered with bushes. 
The soil is watered by streams of clear running water. Groves 
of olives and figs dot the fields, and closely trimmed vines filled 
many cultivated spots. Farmers with yokes of oxen, such as we 
saw in Egypt, were slowly stirring up the soil ; following them 
in solemn dignity the stately storks stalked. No one seemed to 
pay any attention to the long-legged birds, much less did they 











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r** m T ' 


t 


In ' f' 


■ ; Jfc. j 


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11 1 




■ v ?-=-£* m ; 5 


■we g * 1 


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1 HE ■.'>.-*».__; •• 



"Look pleasant, please" 

disturb them. They look much like turkeys, but their limbs are 
slim and long and they are guilty of the pride which is exhibited 
often by an American gobbler. Wild ducks floated in the lakes, 
and here and there a camel was seen upon the mountain side, 
where its owner watched his sheep or goats. Through this 
attractive scenery we made our way to Ayas-alouk, where 
to our right we see the tumbled remains of a castle, and, while 



Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 



231 



we look, the train stops and we are invited out. There is no 
town of any account. A few people live here apparently by 
selling beads and antiques. The first striking thing is the 
towers, which are the remains of an old Roman aqueduct. 
The place is all ruins. We climb a hill, turn to the right, 
where we see a big stone arch, and beyond it the ruins of the 
Church of St. John, which was formerly a mosque, and the 
cattle which we saw from the train. Down the hill we go, and 
at the rear we have a view of a beautiful entrance and orna- 
mented stone archway. Beyond this a few hundred feet is the 
depression where is all that is left of the great temple eight 
times destroyed and seven times rebuilt. There were 24c in 
the party, and here and there we could hear a thoughtful book- 
worm say aloud, "Great is Diana of the Ephesians." 

Through some mistake ot 
a oaiide we we re told that the 
temple ruins were five miles 
away. Then there was gnash- 
ing of teeth, and, in the Ian- 
guage of a Pike's Peaker, a 
tall and stately president of a 
southern college audibly mut- 
tered " Diana's Temple or 
bust." Unlike the famous 
traveler of our West, it was 

unnecessary for us to bust (by thunder). Climbing over the 
fences and down the slope we found ourselves among broken, 
fluted, marble columns, which gave every evidence of greatness 
and antiquity. While some looked on with horror, the 
vandals went to work, and some of the fallen columns 
were less fluted, and some of our pockets were filled with 
choice chips of marble. From our position here we caught 
a glimpse of an arm of the sea which once reached to the 
temple, but now appears to be several miles away. Around 
the. mount near the bay is the modern city of Ephesus. All 
these hills are covered with ruins : Mt. Prion, Mt. Coressus, the 
hill of Ayas-alouk, ruins of Gymnasia, of Agorae, of theatres, 
of temples, all of which made Ephesus famous in the olden 
time. The Temple of Diana was a buried ruin for centuries, 
and less than forty years ago a Mr. Wood dug up the ground 




Site of Ephesus 



232 



Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 



and uncovered the ruins. The final destruction of the temple 
occurred in 342 A. D., by order of Constantine. Many things 
of interest concerning Ephesus are found in the Bible, and 
Ephesus is associated with numerous names of those who made 

history : Paul, John, Croesus, 
Xerxes, Xenophon, Alexander, 
Hannibal, Scipio, Cicero, Pom- 
pey, Augustus. Connected 

with Ephesus is the story of 
the "seven sleepers," who, in a 
cave on Mt. Prion, slept 200 
years, in the time of Diocletian, 
and, like Rip Van Winkle, 
thought it was but a night. 
Returning to the city they found 
themselves unable to comprehend the changes they saw ; 
chagrinned they left and slept their last sleep. 

Lunch was served the Allerites in a building near the 
station, then, at 2 P. M., we started for the city of fifty languages, 
arriving- about four. This allowed us two hours among- the 
bazaars. Thence we made our way back to the boat, buying 
fio-s and figs."-— Parke. 




cAt Ephesus 



Ephesus and the Church of St. John 
A Lecture delivered on Shipboard 

Ladies and Gentlemen : 

I suppose Mr. Clark selected me to lecture on this subject 
on account of a two-fold qualification : first, I had never been to 
Ephesus ; and, second, I expected to leave the Aller party 
before they reached it. The latter qualification will at least 
save me from any unpleasant consequences to myself, if you 
do not find the reality correspond to my picture. 

One other word of introduction : the subject of the lecture 
as given me before I came aboard was simply " Ephesus," with 
no reference to the Church of St. John. As my compagnon de 
voyage, whose trunk contains everything else that a man might 
want or imagine he might want, neglected to bring an encyclo- 
pedia, you must pardon a very brief reference to the latter part 
oi my subject. 



Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 



233 



The historic peninsula lying between the Black and the 
Mediterranean Seas, known to us as Asia Minor, the most 
westerly projection of the Asia continent, has two rivers more 
prominent than the rest running westward to the /Egean Sea. 
The more northerly is Hermus, with Sardis at its head and 
Smyrna at its mouth. We think of the first when we say "as 
rich as Croesus," and the second suggests to us rugs and figs. 
I have had some rude shocks on this trip ; I saw no grapes at 
Malaga and no cats at Malta, and if I find no figs at Smyrna, 
I will be inclined to turn upon Mr. Clark and sue for damages. 
The southern stream is 
the Maeander, to whose 
multitudinous windings we 
pay tribute whenever we 
speak of meandering 
streams. Miletus was its 
city. 

Between these two 
was another and a shorter 
stream, the Cayster. Its 
valley is divided from the 
valleys of its neighboring 
rivers by two mountain 
ranges that project out 
into the sea in the islands 

of Samos and Chios ; the former a high rocky mass, the 
fabled birthplace of Juno ; the other fair and fertile, clothed 
with vines and gardens. The little valley of the Cayster, 
thus enclosed on either side, is divided into an upper and 
a lower valley by a transverse range, through which the river 
breaks from the high plains above to the alluvial lands and salt 
marshes below. The upper plain was the cradle of the conti- 
nent of Asia, for the oldest mention of the name is where 
Homer sings of 

" The Asian meadow by the streams of the Cayster." 

From this narrow valley the name spread over all the pe- 
ninsula to the river Halys, and then to the region beyond, as 
Herodotus distinguishes between " Asia within the Halys " 
and " Asia beyond the Halys." Later, Mount Taurus was the 
accepted boundary of what we now know as "Asia Minor." 




Ruins of the Church of St. John 




*k£&* 



cMosque M Ephesus 



234 Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 

On one of those fine sites that the Greeks knew so well 
how to select, on the spurs of Mount Coressus and Mount Prion, 
on the southern side of the lower valley of the Cayster, an 

Athenian colony under the 
lead of Androclus, son of the 
Athenian King- Coclrus, was 
founded not far from the time 
when David was laying the 
foundations of the kingdom of 
Israel, or Solomon was building 
the temple at Jerusalem. 

The preceding" inhabitants 
of the land were the half myth- 
ical Amazons, those strong- 
minded ladies of antiquity, who failed to establish the supremacy 
of woman, because — unlike their modern sisters, they had failed 
to discover that the pen — not to say the tongue — is mightier 
than the sword. By this ungallant conquest was founded the 
city of Ephesus. But 

Dies erit praegelida 
Sinistra quum femina.* 

A woman became its goddess. 

The whole history of the city shows traces of the struggle 
between the Greek influences, centered in the city on the hills, 
and the Asiatic influences that clustered around the temple on 
the plain, the shrine of the goddess, whose image — like the 
Palladium at Troy — was believed to have fallen from heaven. 
Again and again the city was saved from destruction at the 
hands of Asiatic conquerors by placing itself under the protec- 
tion of the goddess, and at length we see the Asiatic deity, the 
rude symbol of nature's fruitfulness, baptized with a Greek 
name, and enshrined in a Greek temple, while the Greeks 
of Ephesus boast that their city is ncocoros, temple-sweeper, to 
the goddess. No divinity could be more dissimilar from the 
chaste huntress known to the Greeks as Artemis, and to the 
Romans as Diana, than the many-breasted Asiatic goddess 
that represented the female principle in nature. Yet the identi- 
fication was made ; perhaps because the moon was the symbol of 
both divinities ; perhaps because the Amazonian defenders of the 
Asiatic goddess suggested the maiden companions of Artemis. 

* With apologies to James Jeffrey Roche. 



Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 



235 



Ephesus was at hrst outstripped by the more rapid growth 
of its sister city Miletus ; it was afterwards surpassed in wealth 
and splendor by Sardis ; it was once tributary to Pergamos ; 
and it has for centuries been in ruins while Smyrna still sur- 
vives. But for all that it has an interest, even in its ruins, 
unrivaled by any of its great competitors. 

The patient researches of Wood have shown that the sea 
has not receded from Ephesus as was long supposed. It was 
never built by the sea, for a Greek city required an Acropolis, 




A Modern Diana 



and no suitable site near the sea offered. So, as the)' could 
not bring the mountains to the sea, they brought the sea to the 
mountains, creating a harbor very much as Glasgow has been 
made a seaport in modern times. The waters of the Cayster 
were turned into an artificial basin, which was connected with 
the sea by a straight canal. The ancient quays and docks have 
been brought to light, and the German excavations now in 
progress are uncovering the interior of the amphitheatre, the 
agora, the gymnasium, the streets, the statues and the houses 
of this ancient city. If you would know something of its life, 
I need only refer you to Wallace's account of ancient Antioch, 



236 Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 

or Sienkiewicz's description of ancient Rome ; for all cities then 
were epitomes of Rome — organized by Roman genius, beauti- 
fied by Greek art, and corrupted by Oriental luxury. 

Its great temple had a history all its own. It was not in 
the city, but out on the plain a mile or more to the northeast. 
Its recent discovery by Wood is a monument of British pluck, 
energy, patience, ingenuity and scholarship. The British 
Museum furnished the means, and it is there — and not at 
Ephesus — that we must look for its more splendid remains. 

The pavements of three successive temples were identi- 
fied ; the first was planned by Chersiphron in the time of 
Crcesus, replacing a still older structure ; this was rebuilt and 
enlarged by Paeonius in the fifth century B. C. But in the 
year 356, " on the same night on which Alexander the Great 
was born," as ancient historians delight in telling- us, this 
temple — the richest and the most splendid in the world — was 
burned to the ground by one Herostratus, who wished to make 
his name immortal, and did not discriminate too nicely between 
fame and infamy. 

The Ephesians set about to rebuild it with yet greater 
magnificence, and such was their civic pride that when Alex- 
ander visited it before its completion, and offered to pay the 
whole cost from the spoils of his eastern campaigns if he might 
inscribe his name upon the pediment, his offer was refused. 

Wood has shown that the temple rested upon a raised 
platform, ascended by continuous steps on all sides. The 
dimensions at the lowest step were four hundred and eighteen 
feet one inch in length, and two hundred and thirty-nine feet 
four and one-half inches in breadth. Upon the platform was a 
double colonnade all around, eight columns in width and twenty 
in length ; with the pair of columns supporting the roof of the 
pronaos, and the corresponding pair in the posticum, making a 
hundred exterior columns in all. They were fifty- six feet high, 
and were unlike all other ancient columns, in that they were 
sculptured in high relief to the height of a man, with figures of 
Amazons and warriors. From the group of figures around the 
base rose the fluted shaft, crowned with an Ionic capital. The 
sculptures are said to be the work of Scopas, and are of the fin- 
est workmanship. Within the temple were columns of verde 
antique, some of which are said to be now in St. Sophia, while 



Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 



237 



precious stones and marbles of every kind, paintings of 
Apelles and treasures of ancient art adorned its walls, or were 
stored in its vaults. 

Ministering in this temple, and supported by its offerings, 
was a vast army of priests, lecturers, singers and servants, 
while merchants and artisans in the city derived great wealth 
from the trade of the throngs of worshipers attracted to its 
yearly feasts. 




#*-*•> 




Ephesus "Is one ivith Nineveh and Tyre" 



But one day there came a little few to Ephesus who 
began to preach strange doctrines, at first in the Jewish 
Synagogue, which no one need mind, for all knew the peculiar 
ideas Jews held as to other gods than their own ; but later in 
the school of one of the philosophers or rhetoricians of the 
city. This might be more serious, for now the doctrines began 
to attract the attention of Greeks. Still what could the Jews 
do against the great goddess, entrenched in the superstition, 
self-interest and pride of the people, with the power of wealth, 
the glory of art and the prestige of historic association all on 




cMosqae at Ephesus 



238 Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 

her side? Yet the future belonged 
to the Jew, for the power of God 
was with him. In these streets, 
now silent save for the pick and 
\ spade of the explorer, were 
^i wrought two memorable scenes of 
which the teachings of this Jew 
were the occasion. 

Throughout Asia Minor, be- 
fore words were reduced to writ- 
ten characters, there were certain 
symbols in use for the conveyance of ideas to persons at a 
distance. Such probably were the "tokens of woe" brought 
by Bellerophon to the King of Lycia. After the art of writing- 
was introduced it was natural that a superstitious significance 
should be attached to these ancient symbols. Such probably 
was the origin of the "Ephesus letters," the interpretation of 
which became a lucrative craft to a large company of sooth- 
sayers. But when St. Paul came preaching a religion of 
truth and not of fraud, " so mightily grew the word of God 
and prevailed " that those who practiced this black art brought 
their books, to the value of 50,000 pieces of silver, and burned 
them in the public square, a scene for whose counterpart we 
must look to the Piazza Signoria at Florence, when high 
born dames burned their ornaments and luxuries under the 
spell of the scorching eloquence of Savonarola. 

The other scene grew not out of "reed overcome, but 
arose from cupidity inflamed to opposition. What a picture 
that is of a mob of mercurial people ; all rushing to the theatre 
to follow the crowd ; some shouting- one thing- and some 
another ; the more part knowing not why they had come 
together ; all at length joining for hours in the shout, " Great is 
Diana of the Ephesians ; " the tactful Roman officer at length 
allaying the excitement by an appeal to Roman law and the 
common sense of the people. Should not the silent walls of 
the great amphitheatre speak peace to our hearts, excited by 
the lleeting possessions of the passing hour ? 

" Hush and heed not, for all things pass." 
Only truth is eternal. 



Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 



239 



Ephesus produced many orators and poets in the days of 
her prosperity ; but their writings have perished, their very 
names have passed, for the most part, into oblivion. But from 
this city were written two little books that have become an 
imperishable part of the world's literature. Ephesus is now 
only a cemetery, and much of its dust is the dust of the dead. 
But here were written those words that, when our dead are 
committed to the dust, fill our hearts with the blessed hope that 
" this corruptible shall put on incorruption, and this mortal shall 
put on immortality." 

Not far north of Ephesus, where Mt. Ida overlooks the 
plain of Troy, the son of Priam gave the reward of beauty to 
the goddess of sensual love, and plunged the ancient world into 
war. But here in Ephesus St. Paul places the crown of pre- 
eminence upon the brow of Christian love, and wherever its 
blessed evangel reaches the hearts of men, it brings with it 
peace and good will. 

And the final associations with Ephesus are not with 
St. Paul, but with St. John, who not more truly, but perhaps 
more eminently, was the Apostle of love. It is said that when 
he could no longer walk through these streets, he was carried to 




(Ancient aqueduct — The home of the storks 

the church in the arms of faithful disciples, and lifted to the 
pulpit where he could only say, "Little children, love one 
another." No wonder that under such holy teaching, timid 
maidens when confronted in the theatre with the question, 
" Diana or Christ," chose Christ and death, rather than Diana 
and earthly happiness. 



240 Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 

When Justinian came here to build the splendid church, 
whose ruined portals we still can see, it was rightly named "St. 
John Theologos," for here the aged Apostle wrote that gospel 
that most fully reveals the Word made flesh ; the glory as of 
the Only begotten of the Father. And though city and church 
have perished, it is not the name of Diana but the name of the 
beloved disciple whose echo still survives in the name of the 
village that marks the spot, Ayas-alouk — John Theologos." — 
Rev. Peyton H. Hodge, D. D. 

The Mock Trial of W. R. Hamilton, Sometime Physician and Surgeon 

Humorous incident of the voyage between Malta and 
Alexandria, February 23. As Mark Twain remarks, " No ship 
ever went to sea that hadn't a Mock Trial on Board," and we 
had ours of course. Dr. Hamilton, as you may see, from the 
indictment, was accused of various fearful and terrible things : 

INDICTMENT 
Ottoman Empire, Dampfer Alter 

Royal High Court of Backsheesh. 

The chief order of the Royal High Court of Backsheesh, to wit : the 
Grand Inquest sitting on the steamship Alter, within said empire, present one 
W. R. Hamilton, alias Doctor, alias L.L. D., alias Dentist, alias Veterinary 
Surgeon, alias Grand Spokesman and Adviser, alias an Instructor to those who 
are personally conducted, he himself being one time personally conducted, 
once of Pennsylvania, an alleged spot within the realm of one " McKinley " 
and now commorant and assuming the office of conductor within our said 
empire and within the jurisdiction of this humble court, did on the twenty- 
third day of February, this current year, being known among Christians as 
the year of 1898, at and within said empire and within the jurisdiction of 
said court, unlawfully write and deliver or cause to be delivered to one L. B. 
Lewis, on said Altera, certain libelous, scurrilous and threatening letter, said 
Lewis then and there being a rival conductor in the troupe known as the Clark 
Contingent, and a loud, garrulous and flirtatious young man inclined to the 
society of the gentler sex, which letter, it is prayed, may be submitted in 
evidence in support of this indictment, the same being too scurrilous to spread 
upon the record. An authenticated copy of said letter has been submitted to 
said accused, all against the dignity, peace and order of said empire and 
contrary to the code of said realm in this case made and provided. 

Second Count 
And your Grand Inquest further present said W. R. Hamilton, aliased 
and described as aforesaid in said count, known as count first of this indict- 
ment, that said Hamilton did at various times and places, within said realm 
and within the jurisdiction of said court, to wit : On a steamship Alter, and 
at a time and times from and between the twenty-third day of February, 1898, 
and the eighteenth day of March of said year, continuously and inclusively in 



Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 



241 




"Said and aforesaid aliased Hamilton " 



pursuance of the threats set forth in said threatening letter referred to in said 
first count of this indictment, which said letter the government will produce 
and now offers to produce, and with the intent to carry out said threats, unlaw- 
fully threaten the life of said Lewis by firing at him from a pistol and by 
further striking at said Lewis with a sword or scimetar with intent to injure or 
maime said Lewis and deprive him of the power to further conduct said troupe 
and to send him prematurely and without sufficient preparation to Sheol. 

Third Count 
And your said inquest further present said Hamilton, aliased and described 
as aforesaid, his place of domicile being on said Aller and within the jurisdic- 
tion of said Honorable Court, that said Hamilton did unlawfully have, possess 
and conceal sundry weapons, a more particular description of said weapons 
being to your jurors unknown, with intent then and there to wit : On said 
eighteenth day of March, 1898, to injure, maim, destroy, kill or otherwise 
disturb one L. B. Lewis, now on said Aller and within the jurisdiction of 
this court. 

Foreman, Grand Inquest Backsheesh, 

W. M. BELL 

It was also necessary as part of the evidence to reproduce 

the alleged letter sent Mr. Lewis upon which the indictment 

was founded : 

Steamship Aller, Feb. 23, 1898 
Mr. L. B. Lewis : 

Having but recently diagnosed the identity of your personality as the 
contumaceous individual who aided and abetted in the racket produced in the 
hall-way opposite my Cabin de Luxe last evening, to the disturbance of my 
nocturnal rest, I herewith denounce you in conjunctivity with others as a 
disturber of the peace, and as an anatomical congestion of eruptic bacilli. 



242 



Beirut, Damascus, Smyrna, Ephesus 



Should it be your misfortune to fall into my hands, as an impatient, I 
would delight in disrupting your epigarsis. 

Fiend beware, for if opportunity offers I shall certainly amputate your 
ainphithoral mumgoosley bob. 

Yours disrespectfully, 

DOCTOR W. R. HAMILTON 

The make up of the court was as follows : 

Judge — Hon. S. M. Cutcheon. 

Clerk of Court — Jas. G. Shepherd. 

Sheriff— H. R. Wilson. 

Crier— W. J. McMullin. 

Prosecuting Attorneys — Hon. F. D. Allen, Isaac M. Jackson. 

Defense Attorneys — J. J. Russell, Col. A. F. Seltzer. 

Jury — S. D. Presbrey, foreman; Rev. Jos. Schmitt, Chas. McFeeley, 
J. W. Stoddard, Geo. W. Selden, G. Waldo Smith, Mrs. F. D. Allen, Miss 
Laura Ruddle, Mrs. A. J. P. McClure, Miss E. Rumsey, Miss Florence 
Presbrey and Miss Caroline Archbold. 

Oath for Jury used by Clerk — By the Pyramids of Cheops, by the Sphinx 
and temples of Luxor, you do promise to pay no attention to the weight of 
evidence or the truth of witnesses but will be governed entirely in your verdict 
by the amount of backsheesh you may be paid. 

Witnesses' oath used by Clerk — By Menese ancient king, by Seti and 
Rameses II, you promise not to tell the truth, the whole truth or any part of 
the truth. 

Verdict of Jury — The jury disagree on the main charge, but in the testi- 
mony given we find him guilty of swindling the Governor of Malta at poker 
and recommend a considerable fine which shall be divided among the "Jury." 

The oaths administered to the witnesses together with the 

verdict of the jury have a uniqueness and an appropriateness 

which are delightful. However, as one of the witnesses, placed 

upon a high table in the midst of the large assemblage in the 

dining saloon and questioned facetiously by the prosecuting and 

defensive attorneys, I can testify that there was more somberness 

and less amusement in it than might have been anticipated. 




Cornered 



CONSTANTINOPLE 



CONSTANTINOPLE 

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Periodicals 

The Building of an Empire. (John Brisben Walker) Cosmopolitan (New York). 

Vol. 26, p. 464 (February, 1899), Pari 1, Mohammed ; Vol. 26, p. 641 (March, 

1899). To be continued. 
Sultan at Home. (S. Whitman) Harper, Vol. 98, p. 276 (January, 1899) ; Review of 

Reviews, Vol. 19, p. 95 (January, 1899). 
Constantinople : The City and Its People. (Peter MacOueen) Cosmopolitan, Vol. 23, 

p. 115 (June, 1897). 



Constantinople 

"There were very few, if any, days during the cruise on 
which the enthusiasm of our ship's company was aroused to a 
greater height than on the day of our approach to and landing 
in the harbor of Constantinople. 

(245) 



246 Constantinople 

We were aroused at five o'clock on the morning of Sun- 
day, March 20th, when our ship was at the entrance of the Dar- 
danelles, " The Ancient Hellespont," so we would have an oppor- 
tunity to view the site of ancient Troy. 

Readers will remember the Dardanelles as a narrow strait 
connecting; the /Egean Sea with the Sea of Marmora. 

As we progressed through the Dardanelles our thoughts 
naturally reverted to the story of Leander swimming the Hel- 
lespont. Perhaps it may be of interest to recall briefly this 
ancient story. 

Hero in Greek mythology was a priestess of Venus at 
Sestos, who was beloved by Leander, native of Abydos. It was 
Leander' s habit to swim across the Hellespont nightly to visit 
his beloved Hero. During one tempestuous night, however, 
he was drowned, and in the morning the waves cast his body on 
the shore. When Hero beheld it she threw herself into the sea. 

This feat of Leander having been boasted about through 
so many centuries. Lord Byron determined to accomplish the 
same feat, and on the 3d of May, 1810, swam the Dardanelles 
from Sestos to Abydos, and after he had successfully accom- 
plished the feat, wrote a poem in a humorous vein concerning 
it, from which 1 quote one stanza : 

" 'Twere hard to say who fared the best, 

Sad mortals ! thus the gods still plague you. 
He lost his labour, I my jest, 

For he was drowned and I've the ague." 

On the morning of our passage through the Dardanelles 
the air was so cold we could not think of the feats of Leander 
and Lord Byron without a chill. According to Lord Byron's 
notes the distance from the place where he started to his land- 
ing, including the length caused by the current, was about 
four English miles, although the actual breadth of the Darda 
nelles at this point is only about one mile. 

After passing through the Dardanelles we emerged into 
the sea of Marmora, and were for a time out of sight of land. 
During this time, as it was the Sabbath day, we had our cus- 
tomary religious services on the ship. 

At about three o'clock in the afternoon our eyes were 
greeted by a vision of such wonderful beauty and grandeur that we 
can hope to have it paralleled but few times, if ever, in life's span. 



Constantinople 



247 



The day of our approach was a perfect one in the spring- 
time of the yEgean. As the slender and graceful minarets and 
gilded domes of the hundreds of mosques of Constantinople, 
the palaces, towers and fortresses and other imposing structures 
came into view the sight was one to excite the liveliest emotions. 

We had been told that inside were dogs and filth. Never- 
theless nothing could keep down our exultation in the presence 
of such overpowering splendor. Our ship passed, without 
stopping, through the Bosphorus, which is so narrow we could 
see distinctly all the structures both on the European and 








On the Bosphorus in front of the old Palace 



Asiatic side of Constantinople. The structures were, many of 
them, of most peculiar architecture, unlike anything to be seen 
in our own country. 

Our ship made its way into the Black Sea, and when it had 
fairly cleared the Bosphorus, after a brief run, swung around 
and made its way back to the dock at Constantinople. 

The name of the city was originally Byzantium, but it was 
merged into Constantinople A. D. 330, after its capture by 
Constantine the Great. He rebuilt the city and made it the 
capital of the Roman Empire. From the date above given 
until its capture by the Turks, in 1453, it was a Christian city. 
Since the latter date, however, it has remained in possession of 
the Turks undisturbed as the chief Moslem city of the world. 



248 Constantinople 

One cannot walk or ride alono- through the streets of Con- 
stantinople without noticing the great number of wolfish-looking 
clogs upon the streets. They are ownerless dogs, and the 
stranger is filled with surprise at their great numbers. I asked 
Professor Van Millingen, of Robert College, why so many dogs 
were allowed on the streets, and he answered my question in 
one word, "scavengers." 




Interior of ihe Mosque of Si. Sophia 

The dogs are said to act as watch dogs at night and to sleep 
in the daytime. Sometimes in our walks we would have diffi- 
culty in getting along without treading on them, and would have 
to pick our way between them as they lay sound asleep curled 
up on the corners of the streets. 

Our observation is that various groups of dogs are jealous 
as to any encroachments upon their bailiwicks by strange dogs. 
A story passed current on our ship that the penalty was as 



Constantinople 



249 



great for killing a dog in Constantinople as for killing a man, 
viz. : fifteen years' imprisonment. I did not have an opportu- 
nity to verify this statement, but must confess it would not be 
greatly at variance with the so-called justice meted out by the 
Turks. 

Many of the streets of Constantinople are narrow and ill 
paved and grotesquely irregular and crooked. 

Of the public buildings we visited the most remarkable is 
the Church of Saint Sophia. It was built by the Emperor Jus- 
tinian, in the fifth century, as a Christian Church. It is said 
Justinian wanted to pave its floors with plates of gold, but 
instead used variegated marbles, and it is related when this 
temple was completed the Emperor averred that it exceeded in 
magnificence the temple of Solomon at Jerusalem, and he caused 
a statue of Solomon, with a grieved expression on his face, to 
be erected facing the temple. I was much interested in a con- 
versation with a member of a firm of eminent architects of Bos- 
ton who was one of our party. He informed me that the Saint 
Sophia is considered the central building, historically, of the 
world, being the first domical building resting on pendentives 
(spherical triangles). It was designed by a Greek, and to a cer- 
tain extent modified all succeeding church architecture. I con- 
fess I was deeply impressed by this wonderful structure, which 
is considered to be, without question, the finest mosque in the 
world. It is interesting to note that the "Saint Sophia" is not 
meant to be the designation of any special saint, but simply 
means "divine wisdom." 

A very pleasing experience came to our party through 
meeting in the Museum in Stamboul the Rev. Dr. Albert L. 
Long, vice-president of Robert College, Constantinople, an old 
friend of the family of the writer. Dr. Long has been a resident 
of Constantinople for forty years, and it was a most fortunate 
circumstance to meet one so well informed with regard to 
things we most wished to know about there, and who was also 
one of our own people. 

One of the most agreeable of our 
experiences at Constantinople was a sail 
up the Golden Horn. The Golden 
Horn is an arm of the sea about five 
miles in extent, furnishing a most 




A glimpse into the Black Sea. 



250 



Constantinople 



desirable harbor for shipping. Dr. Long - called our attention 
to the fact that originally the name of the Golden Horn was 
Wolf Creek, but inasmuch as this arm of the sea very much 
resembles a horn in shape, it in someway came to be called the 
" Golden Horn," probably because of the rich commerce of 
Constantinople. 

The last hour of our stay in the harbor at Constantinople 
was enjoyed in listening to a lecture on board our ship by Prof. 
Alexander Van Millingen, of Robert College, on Constantinople 
and the Turks. 




cNlosque of Sultan Ahmed 



He told us how Constantinople as a Christian city, during 
the middle ages, had, time after time, beaten back from its 
walls the tides of barbaric invasion, which if they had swept by 
Constantinople would certainly have menaced, if they had not 
destroyed, the civilization of western Europe. 

I had never realized before the debt which Europe and the 
world owes Constantinople for its heroic resistance of barbaric 
invasions during the middle ages. It seems a great pity that a 
city which so nobly withstood for so many hundreds of years the 
onslaughts of barbarism, should have been compelled to yield 
at last to Turkish domination only about four and a half cen- 
turies ao-o. 



Constantinople 251 

It was a matter of regret to our ship's company that we 
did not have an opportunity to visit Robert College, Constanti- 
nople. This institution, which bears the name of a worthy 
citizen of our imperial New York, is doing great work in Con- 
stantinople, as is the American College at Beirut, another 
Turkish city, the chief support of both these institutions being 
derived from our country. My information is that the men who 
are really holding the reins of government to-day in Bulgaria 
are mostly graduates of Robert College. 

The students of this institution gave us a grand salute as 
our ship steamed by en route to the Black Sea. They waved 
the stars and stripes at us from the windows of the college 
buildings, a strange sight, indeed, for the capital of Turkey." — 
Archbold. 

The Address of Professor Alexander van Milling-en Was an Answer to 
the Question — What Makes Constantinople Worthy of a Visit ? 

In reply to this question, the lecturer dwelt : i. Upon the 
great natural beauty of the situation of the city, with the Bos- 
phorus on the one hand, the Sea of Marmora on the other, and 
at a point where the continents of Europe and Asia are only 
half a mile apart. Here is a conformation of land and sea, 
which brings river, lake, hills, islands and mountains together 
to present one of the fairest scenes of nature that can charm 
the human eye anywhere in the world. As an American trav- 
eler exclaimed, when looking on this wonderful panorama of 
beauty, " Certainly, the Lord has done His part." 

2. Another attraction of Constantinople, upon which the 
lecturer expatiated, is the Oriental life and scenery of the city ; 
mosques, turbans, veiled ladies, latticed windows, flowing robes, 
bazaars, street-dogs, caiques, cypress-groves and a thousand 
other peculiarities, which put before the traveler from the West 
a community of human beings living in an entirely different 
social system from that with which he is familiar. 

3. In the next place, the historical attractions of Constanti- 
nople were indicated. It stands next to Athens, Rome and 
Jerusalem, in its influence upon the course of human affairs. 
Here the Roman Empire endured for a thousand years after its 
western dominion had been conquered by the German tribes. 
Here a new form of beauty and the art, of which the Church of 



252 



Constantinople 




Galata from Stamboul and the famous bridge of boats connecting Europe and Asia 



St. Sophia is the ilower and highest type, was evolved. Here 
Roman law was codified to become the foundation of justice in 
the civilized world of modern times. Here the Church elabo- 
rated her profoundest thoughts on the facts of her faith. Here 
the literature of ancient Greece was treasured and then trans- 
mitted to western Europe, to bring about the revival of learn- 
ing. Here for more than a thousand years a stand was made 
against the assaults of orientalism and barbarism upon the life 
of Europe, similar to the stand made against the Persian by the 
Greek in the heroic days when Marathon and Salamis, and 
Plataea became names that will never die. Here, at length, the 
Roman empire fell and passed away, giving place to its 
destroyers, the Ottoman Turks. 

4. The lecturer finally explained, at some length, the 
so-called "Eastern Ouestion," showing; that it has been occa- 
sioned by the fundamental principle upon which a Moslem 
people governs conquered nations of a different faith, denying 
to Christian subjects political equality. Such a principle leads, 
inevitably, to an antagonism that nothing can remove. Hence 
the chronic dissatisfaction of the Christian races of Turkey with 



Constantinople 



253 



their rulers ; hence their dreams of liberation, hence their insur- 
rections, hence the measures with which they have been 
repressed. But this conflict between the Turkish government 
and its Christian subjects has not been left to be fought out 

solely between the two 
parties directly con- 
cerned. It has inter- 
ested the European 
nations generally, and 
led them, sometimes out 
of sympathy with the 
oppressed, sometimes 
with the object of gain- 
ing territory, sometimes 
in order to thwart one 
another, to interfere in 





the conflict, with the 
result, however, that 
Greece, Servia, Rou- 
mania and Bulgaria 
have been withdrawn 
from the Turkish rule 
and created, to all in- 
tents and purposes, in- 
dependent states. In 
all this weakening of 
the Turkish power by 
external force, Russia 



The Sublime Porte Saint Sophia 



Tree of the Janissaries 



254 



Constantinople 



has taken the leading part. Had it been certain that Russian 
action was purely disinterested, all Christian peoples under 
Turkish rule would probably, ere this, have been liberated 
from that domination. But the belief that Russia seeks for 
herself Constantinople, and the control of the territories 
between the Adriatic and the Persian Gulf has ranged the 
other nations of Europe, and, not least, England against her. 
Hence the definite solution of the " Eastern Question " awaits 
either a friendly understanding between the European powers 
as to disposal of the Turkish domain, or, like the Gordian knot, 
will be settled by the might of the sword. — Delivered in Main 
Saloon of Dampfer Alter, Harbor of Constantinople. 



The Dogs of Constantinople 
At one spot I counted seventeen dogs in all stages of indo- 
lence and stupor. These dogs are remarkable, not for any deeds 
of valor, they have never been known to jump into the Bosphorus 
and save a drowning man from a watery grave, nor is their 
sagacity or fidelity to their masters their forte ; but in supreme 
inaction and content they surpass the rest of the canine world. 
Like the western desperado, whom his friends left hanging on 
a limb in the prairie, they are in their normal state, " uncon- 
sarned and quiet like." An exuberant Michigan friend of mine 
counted 31 dogs on a spot ten feet or more in diameter and he 
said he could have counted over a hundred, but he was in a 
hurry. These dogs have a code of canonical laws by which 
Constantinople is districted and each one has his department of 
inaction, and transgressions are punished according to police 



dog regulations. 




We saw a Hock of sheep 
congesting the street, but the 
dogs in front of the sheep, 
unlike Mark Twain's dogs in his 
description, seemed to realize in 
a measure that they would be 
unhappy should they remain 
curled up asleep. — a. j. r. McC. 



Streel Dogs Gdlore 



Constantinople 255 

Constantinople Art Treasures 

One cannot help feeling deeply gratified at seeing the use 
which is being made of the Porcelain Kiosk in the Old Seraglio 
grounds in Constantinople. That this building, which was the 
first structure erected by the conqueror after the capture of the 
city, should be not only preserved itself as an architectural gem, 
but should also serve as the conservatory of ancient art, is 
highly significant. The brazen head of one of the serpents of 
the twisted column, which once supported the tripod of the 
priestess of Delphi, and, standing in the Hippodrome, attracted 
the attention of the victorious monarch on his conquering 
advance to the great church of St. Sophia, and was shattered 
by a stroke from his ponderous battle-ax, is there in the same 
room with the Cylinder of Nabonidus and other cuneiform 
records of Sennacherib's victorious campaign against King 
Hezekiah, and along with objects from Schliemann's excava- 
tions of ancient Troy. In the adjoining apartment is the Jeru- 
salem Stele, a stone from the Temple Court at Jerusalem pro- 
hibiting the entrance of a foreigner (that is a Gentile) within the 
sacred enclosure on pain of death, a stone upon which there 
can be but little doubt our Lord has frequently looked. Just 
alongside of this precious object of biblical antiquity is the stone 
bearing the recently discovered Siloam inscription, with its con- 
firmation of history in regard to the construction of the Siloam 
aqueduct tunnel. Outside, upon the marble corridor, stands also 
the colossal Meikart of Gaza, which attracts the attention of the 
Assyriologist by the striking resemblance which it bears to the 
legendary Chaldean hero Gizdubar, as he is represented upon 
the oldest cylinder seals. Thus the collection of objects here 
preserved establishes the connection from the time of the erec- 
tion of the building- back throueh the acres to the earliest historic 
period. 

Facing this building, and about two hundred feet distant, 
stands the new museum building with its broad marble steps 
and massive columns quite in the best modern style of public 
buildings, with an inscription over the portico in ancient Cufic 
characters signifying Museum of Antiquities. This beautiful 
new building, almost completed, has been erected mainly by pri- 
vate funds furnished by His Imperial Majesty, the present Sul- 
tan, to the enterprising and accomplished director, Hamdi Bey. 



256 



Constantinople 



If any one is curious to know the origin of this unexpected 
zeal manifested by the ruler of this land in regard to objects of 
anciquity, let him procure his ticket at the modest cost of one 
shilling and enter that new buildinor and he will find that that 
additional structure contains inestimable treasures which might 
well excite the envy of the richest museums of the world. The 




Street in front of Mosque 



two large rooms upon the ground floor are stocked with the 
Sidon Sarcophagi, all of which are valuable and interesting, but 
two of which are so surpassingly beautiful as to richly deserve 
a special palace to enclose them. 

The central object of attraction is the so-called Alexander 
Sarcophagus. The director, Hamdi Bey, has, I believe, never 
claimed for it that it is the actual tomb of Alexander the Great, 
but, inasmuch as it bears the undoubted portrait of Alexander 
the Great, easily recognizable by every one who has ever held 



Constantinople 257 

in his hand one of the best coins or medallions of the Macedo- 
nian conqueror, this magnificent tomb, worthy of him or any 
other monarch who ever lived, has received by general popular 
consent the name of the "Alexander tomb." 

It is a rectangular, temple-shaped, marble structure, more 
than three meters high, and covered with an imitation tile roof, 
ornamented with exquisitely cut volutes, heads of goats and of 
lions, with a Greek border of peculiar pattern and a vine leaf 
the perfection of elegance and accuracy of detail. Never have 
I seen the work of elaborate ornamentation carried out with 
such micrometric fidelity and harmony of idea. The material 
being of the purest and finest-grained marble has admitted of 
such a fineness and delicacy of finish that the unwary finger 
passed over them may be cut as with a knife by the sharp mar- 
ble edge. 

The subjects treated in high relief on two sides are a battle 
scene and a lion hunt. The battle scene is a hand-to-hand 
combat between Persians and Greeks. The former are distin- 
guished by their dress, their weapons and their physiognomy, 
the latter are in the classic half clothing which characterizes the 
figures upon the frieze of the Parthenon. 

In looking upon this scene one is immediately led to the 
conviction that the most, if not all, of the Greek faces and 
some, at least, of the Persian are portraits. Individuality is 
stamped upon each one of them. No two are alike. Even the 
war horses have an individuality. No two are alike, but each 
one bears that peculiar individual trait of equine physiognomy 
which enables the true lover of horses to pick out his favorite 
animal from among hundreds of companions. 

At the extreme left is Alexander mounted upon a superb 
charger. He is represented as faithfully as though photographed 
from life, with his lion -skin helmet and with that peculiar look of 
his, the look of a prematurely old young man. At the extreme 
right, but facing toward the centre, is an elderly man, probably 
about fifteen years the senior of Alexander, but sitting on his 
fiery steed with an easy grace which betokens the expert cavalry 
general. He has a remarkable face, which would attract atten- 
tion and study in any portrait gallery in the world. Who is 
he ? is the question on everyone's lips on looking at him. Can 
it be Parmenio ? 



258 Constantinople 

At the centre, or halfway between these two, is a third 
personage, who, from his central position, gilded helmet, and 
the Persian suppliant for mercy kneeling before him, it is 
thought by some, has been intended to represent the one for 
whom the tomb was designed. His face is younoer, and of 
less character than Alexander's. Horsemen and footmen, 
spearmen and archers fill up the space. A corpse lies in the 
foreground with a ghastly spear-wound in the side. In looking 
at the scene one thinks no longer about the marble, or even 
about the skill of the artist ; he thinks only of the scene before 
him, who they are and what they are doing. Persians and 
Macedonians somehow become more real to him than they ever 
were before ; he has actually seen them fighting. He has wit- 
nessed the Battle of Arbela. 

In the hunting scene upon the other side the most striking- 
figure probably is that of the noble war horse into whose neck 
and breast the furious lion has fastened his teeth and claws. 
The expression of pain and terror shown by the majestic steed 
as he rears and plunges with the hope of shaking off his enemy 
is pitiful to behold, while the spear-thrust by the royal looking 
rider into the heart of the lion is a marvel of dexterous grace 
and anatomical precision. 

It must not be forgotten that this work is colored. We 
have here more colored marble than has been preserved to us 
in any other monument of antiquity. The genuine " Purple of 
Tyre" is here in all its various shades, and the effect is truly 
wonderful. The experiment has here been tried, and has suc- 
ceeded, of making the cold marble appear warm with life. 
Everything here represented is lifelike and real. The beholder 
gazes upon it in rapt and silent admiration, and turns away too 
full of the subject to look with much interest at anything else. 
— Prof. Albert L. Long, D. D., Vice-President of Robert College. 

The Bosphorus and Robert College 
To get a genera] view of this panorama, we clambered to 
the highest point of the sun deck, and scarcely dared to move 
during the sail of seventeen miles or more up to and into the 
P)lack Sea, every point of which right and left attracted and 
interested our body of tourists. The name Bosphorus is old, 
like Oxford meaning what the two words indicate, a wading 



Constantinople 



259 



place for cattle. There is a classical illusion, which says that 
Jo transformed into a cow swam across here, thus giving- it a 
right to the name. 

Among the attractions lining the banks, apart from forts 
and castles and cannon were the buildings of Robert College, 
an American Institution, but with few American students. Our 
arrival must have been previously announced, for the windows 
of the main building were occupied by patriotic students and 
others armed with towels, sheets, table cloths, etc., which kept 
waving as long as we were in sight. It no doubt was to them a 
sight worth seeing from their height, for Hags, handkerchiefs, 
caps were waving much more wildly than the waves of the 
Bosphorus. It was impressive, and tears came to my eyes as I 
thought of these young men far away from their own good 
government and land which their alma mater represents, striv- 
ing to secure an education for the betterment of the part of the 
world wherein they live and into which their influence may 
reach. In some respects, this is a location, a situation, the 
most fortunate in the world for such an institution, a spot that 
commands a great proportion of the Bosphorus, while the city 
is the key to the eastern world. A city that in the hands of an 
aggressive European or American power would make the pos- 
sessor wealthy and almost supreme in power. — a.j. p. McC. 




Members of the Harem 



ATHENS 



GREECE 

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and Athens.) 
Edwards, Elizabeth M. Fair Athens. 



An Historic Sketch of Athens 
Substance of an Address delivered before the Allerites assembled on the Acropolis 

Ladies and Gentlemen : 

According to Thucydides, Attica consisted originally of 
twelve scattered towns. To this period, undoubtedly, belong the 
remains of the prehistoric palace and walls on the Acropolis, which 
correspond closely to the palace and walls of Tiryns, and which 
are generally identified with the "goodly house of Erechtheus," 
mentioned by Homer. The legendary hero, Theseus, combined 
these scattered settlements into one political organism, and with 
him Athenian history really begins. After the reign of a long 
line of semi-mythical kings we have recorded a long struggle 
between nobles and commons, which finally resulted in the 
legislation of Solon and the establishment of a sort of democ- 
racy based upon wealth. This took place in 594 B. C. But 
hardly was the democracy established when it was subverted 



Athens 



265 




Acropolis 



by Peisistratus, who maintained his power over forty years and 
was the first great builder. To him we owe not only the collec- 
tion and collaboration of the Homeric poems, the establishment 
of the great Panathenaic festival, and the foundation of the 
Dionysiac celebrations — the origin of our modern theatre — but 
it was he who began the temple of Olympian Zeus, who built 
the first great public fountain of Athens, the Enneakrounos and 
supplied it with an aqueduct which can still be traced along the 
south side of the Acropolis ami through the King's garden ; 
and who completed the old temple of Athena, recently discov- 
ered by Dr. Dorpfeld between the Parthenon and the Erech- 
theum. 

Peisistratus died in 514, 
and was succeeded by his 
sons, Hippias and Hipparchus. 
Their reign lasted only four 
years, for, in 510, Hipparchus 
was killed by Harmodius and 
Aristogeiton, the liberators of 
Athens and founders of true 
democracy. Hippias was 
driven into exile and retired to 
the court of the King of Persia, 
where he constantly endeav- 
ored to incite that monarch 
to invade Greece. 



ORDER FOR THE DAY 

Piraeus (Athens) Tuesday March 22nd. 

4,30 p. m. Dinner (second sitting 5.30) 
5.15 arrive Piraeus. 5. 30 to 6.30 land, walk 
two blocks to R'y-Station, take train every half 
hour to Athens (5 miles). We supply 12 guides. 
Spend the evening in and about Athens ; return 
to ship any time before midnight. Those who 
prefer can stay on board and rest as we visit 
all sights in Athens to morrow 

"Wednesday 

7 a. m. Breakfast (second sitting 7.30) 
7 30 to 9 a. m. Land and take train to Athens. 
Trains leave every half hour. Walk up to the 
Acropolis. Lecture at 10 a m. by Prof. Chase 
of the American College, Athens, at Acropolis. 

Walk to Mars Hill, Stadium, and have hot 
lunch at Athens 12 to 3 p m. (name of Hotel 
or Restaurant will be announced later.) 

After lunch visit the Museum, etc., and re- 
turn to the ship by 5. 30 p. m 

V. C. Clark. 



266 



Athens 



Then came the Persian wars, with the ereat battles of 
Marathon and Salamis, the capture and sack of Athens, and, 
finally, the utter defeat of the Persian hosts on the plain of Pla- 
taea and in the waters of the y£gean, near Mycale, in Asia 
Minor. These victories were the real foundation of Athenian 
greatness. They were the inspiration of all her later achieve- 
ments. With them begins a period of fifty years such as no 
other city can boast of, the period of ^Eschylus and Sophocles, 
of Pheidias and of Polycleitus, of Herodotus and Thucydides. 
At first, it must be admitted, the outlook was not encour- 
aging. On their return to their homes in 479 B. C. the Athe- 
nians found a city in ruins, its temples burned and overthrown, 
its walls destroyed. Themistocles was the leading spirit of the 
times. It was under his influence that the wall of Athens was 

extended to the limits 
which it occupied 
throughout the classical 
period, extending about 
the city in a 








** ^&* 



Temple of Athena 



great 
circle, including; the 
Hill of the Muses, the 
Pnyx, the Hill of the 
Nymphs, crossing the 
Sacred Way near the 
point where the road 
to Eleusis now leaves 
the Piraeus road, and so in a wide circle through the 
King's garden to the Ilissus and the Hill of the Muses again. 
A few years later the Piraeus was also fortified and connected 
with Athens by the famous "long walls," one of which now 
forms the roadbed of the Piraeus Railroad. At the same time 
that these great building operations were being carried out, the 
power of Athens was confirmed by the formation of the Delian 
Confederation, under Aristides, a confederation that made 
Athens the head of all the islands of the ALgean and brought 
her in the revenues necessary to her public undertakings. 

But if Themistocles and Aristides made Athens the most 
powerful city of Greece, it was their successors, Cimon, son of 
Miltiades, and above all, Pericles, who made her the most beau- 
tiful. To Cimon we owe the plan for a new temple of Athena 



Athens 267 

to replace the old temple ot Peisistratus, which had been only 
hastily repaired alter its destruction by the Persians. For this 
temple Cimon found the Acropolis too narrow and too uneven ; 
for the rock of the Acropolis was not originally Hat, as it now 
appears to be, but sloped gradually down from a point east of 
the Parthenon, its appearance resembling- the roof of a house 
more than anything else. For his new temple Cimon laid a 
deep foundation on the south slope of the rock, using the old 
Pelasgic wall, which had formed the fortification of the Acro- 
polis in pre-Persian times, as a retaining wall, and strengthen- 
ing it by the great wall which now forms the southern boundary 
of the Acropolis. The ground on all sides of the temple was 
leveled up with alternate layers of stone chips and earth, and 
especially with hundreds of statues and votive offerings which 
had been left in fragments by the Persians. It is to this fortu- 
nate chance that we owe almost the entire contents of the Acro- 
polis Museum ; the archaic sculpture and terra cottas there 
collected are the relics of the Persian invasion, buried tor 
centuries under the surface of the Acropolis, and only brought 
to light in the general excavation of 1856 and the succeeding 
years. 

The plan of the Parthenon, then, was due to Cimon ; but 
it was carried out in its present form by Pericles, who, in one 
office or another, usually as general of the Athenians, exercised 
a commanding influence over the development of Athens tor 
over thirty years (from about 460 to 429). Pericles apparently 
found the ground plan of the temple, as built by Cimon, too 
narrow, for he widened the original foundation by several feet, 
at the same time moving the axis of the building slightly to the 
north. This widening was probably due to the introduction ot 
the plan for the gold and ivory statue which was to stand in 
the central hall. ( )f course such a building required years 
for its completion. In fact, it was probably not entirely finished 
until about 434, although the formal dedication took place in 
438, when Athena Parthenos was first exhibited to the people. 
No expense was spared to make the temple the finest offering 
to a patron goddess the world had ever seen. The entire build- 
ing was of Pentelic marble, from the quarries which we can see 
even to-day on the slopes of Pentelicon. Not only were the 
pediments filled with groups of figures representing the birth 



263 



Athens 



of Athena from the head of Zeus and her contest with Poseidon 
for the land of Attica, but the metopes, which were usually left 
plain in Greek temples or only partly sculptured, were all filled 
with reliefs calculated to arouse the enthusiasm of the Athen- 
ians, the battle of the Centaurs and Lapithar, the capture of 
Troy, the contest of the Athenians and Amazons ; while around 
the cella wall ran the great frieze of the Panathenaic proces- 
sion, culminating over the door in the assembly of the gods 
and the ceremonies connected with the delivery of the sacred 
robe which was worn every four years by 
Athenian maidens and laid on the knees of 
the 




Theatre of Herod 



But the plan of Pericles did not stop at one temple. At 
the same time that the Parthenon was in course of construc- 
tion, the little temple of Athena Nike was built on the great 
bastion that formed the western end of Cimon's wall ; and on 
the hill of Colonus Agoraios, overlooking the market place, 
rose the Temple of Hephaestus, which we have come to know 
falsely as the Theseum. Other temples were built or remod- 
eled in other parts of Attica, at Sunium and at Eleusis, the 
Acropolis was filled with a multitude of statues, dedicated both 
by private individuals and by the State ; and finally, in the 
years between 437 and 432, was built the great Propylaea, as a 
fitting entrance to the most glorious sanctuary of the Greek 
world. 

It was probably during the period of Pericles' leadership 
that the other great building of the Acropolis, the Erechtheum, 
was planned and begun, although it was not finished until after 



Athens 269 

408. The cause of this was the war between Athens and 
Sparta, which, at first favorable to the Athenians, ended in the 
crushing defeat of /Egospotami in 404, the destruction of the 
long walls, and the placing of a Spartan garrison on the Acro- 
polis. To be sure, this foreign domination was soon over- 
thrown. In the very next year, Thrasybulus, the second savior 
of Athens, came over the passes of Parnes from Thebes, cap- 
tured the border post of Fhyle, and drove out the Spartan gar- 
rison. The Athenian fleet regained its power, and in 393, after 
a series of successful campaigns in the ALgean, Conon was 
able to return in triumph to Athens and to rebuild the long 
walls. But the power of Athens was broken. The victories 
of Conon were won with the aid of Pharnabazus, a satrap of 
the great king, and of Evagoras, King of Cyprus, and his policy 
of relying on foreign aid now became the leading principle of 
Athenian politics. 




Theatre of Dionysos 

But if the fourth century B. C. is a time of political de- 
gradation, in the realms of the mind it is almost more distin- 
guished than its predecessor. In this century Plato and Aris- 
totle founded their schools— the one in the Academy, on the 
banks of the Cephissus, the other in the Lyceum, on the slopes 
of Lycabettus, near the spot where the American school now 
stands. The acre of the great tragedians was over, but the 
younger branch of comedy received its fullest development in the 
fourth century. In sculpture, although the age of Pheidias and 
Polycleitus is passed, the fourth century gives us Scopas and 
Praxiteles and Lysippus ; while in the field of oratory we have 
only to recall the great name of Demosthenes to be convinced 
of the mental attainments of the age of Alexander the Great. 



270 Ath 



ens 



V 




Naturally, such a period of weakness in the State, although 
accompanied by great mental progress, was not favorable to 
large building operations. Most of the public monuments of 
this time are private undertakings, like the monument of 
Lysicrates and the monument of Thrasyllus, meant to com- 
memorate private victories in musical and dramatic contests. 
Fine grave monuments, also, were in fashion, as one sees at the 
Street of the Tombs, outside the Dipylon, and in the collection 
in the National Museum. Yet, under Lycurgus, the Athenians 
found means to build their first permanent stadion, and first 
gave their theatre a marble covering;. 

After the death of Alexander in 
323, the politics of Athens sank to the 
lowest level ; any support from out- 
side was gladly welcomed, and the 
latest benefactor was the most popu- 
lar. It was the kings of Pergamon, 
especially, who adorned Athens at 
this period — Attalus I., with the 
groups of gods and giants, Amazons 

On Mars Hill & r S & 

just where the captain and party are, and Athenians, Greeksand Persians, 

St, •Paul stood 

Gauls and Greeks, of which so many 
copies exist. Eumenes II. built the long stoa to the west of the 
theatre, and Attalus II. adorned the market with another even 
larger stoa. 

With the capture of Corinth by the Romans in 146, the 
whole of Greece fell under the sway of Rome, and a new, and, 
on the whole, happier era began for Athens ; for the Romans 
loved and respected her as the home of their own higher cul- 
ture, and their rule was never so severe in Greece as in most 
of the provinces. To this period we owe many of the extant 
buildings — the Temple of Roma and Augustus, east of the 
Parthenon, the Tower of the Winds, built by Andronicus of 
Cyrrhus, the gate of the oil market near it, built by Augustus, 
and the pedestal of Agrippa, erected by the Athenians them- 
selves. The last additions to her glories Athens received under 
the Emperor Hadrian, who finally completed the Temple of 
Zeus, almost seven hundred years after its inception under 
Peisistratus, and built his gate to divide the new quarter he had 
established from old Athens. The great gymnasium in the 



Athens 



271 




cMars Hill 



market is another of the buildings of Hadrian, while his con- 
temporary, Herodes Atticus, who owned all the country about 
Marathon and Pentelicon, covered the stadion with marble, as 
his modern successor, Mr. Averoff, has so lately proposed to 
do, and built the theatre which bears his name, in honor of his 
wife Regilla. 

Thus we have the completed picture of Athens as she stood 
in the days of her greatest splendor — the second century A. D. 
— the Acropolis crowded with statues and offerings and crowned 
by the Parthenon, her gods the apparent rulers of the civilized 
world, her streets crowded with the youth of every land, who 
gathered about her philosophers and scholars. And yet this 
was only the last flare of the fire before its extinction. Only a 
little more than a century after the death of Hadrian, the Goths 
appeared before Athens and were with difficulty repulsed ; and 
in 395 the Ostrogoths, under Alaric, captured the city. 

Another influence, too, was at work to destroy the prestige 
of Athens. About the middle of the first century, in 58 A. D., a 
Jew had appeared in Athens and proclaimed an " unknown god," 
and then he had gone away and no one had thought any more 
about him. Yet the seed he sowed had been working, and in 
325 the Emperor of Rome declared himself a convert to the new 
faith of Christianity. In spite of all this, the philosophers con- 
tinued their teachings in Athens, and it was not until 529 that 
the Emperor Justinian formally closed the philosophic schools. 
The Parthenon was converted into a Christian church, at first of 
the Sacred Wisdom, then of the Holy Virgin. 



272 



Athens 



In fact, the whole later history of Athens is summed up in 
the history of the Parthenon. In 1 204, after the capture of Con- 
stantinople by the Venetians in the fourth crusade, Athens 
became subject to Frankish dukes, and the Parthenon church 
was transferred from the Eastern to the Western church. In 
1456 Athens was captured by the Turks, and a few years later 
the Parthenon was changed into a Mohammedan mosque. 
Finally, in 1687, a Venetian army under Morosini, in an attempt 
to capture Athens, dropped a bomb through the roof of a build- 
ing upon a lot of powder which the Turks had stored inside, and, 
after a life of over 2000 years, the pride and glory of the age of 




The King's Palace 



Pericles were shattered into a thousand pieces. The siege was 
successful. The Turks evacuated the Acropolis, but Morosini 
was unable to hold his conquest, and in a few months Greece 
groaned again under the Turkish yoke — a joke that was not 
lifted until the war of 1821 and the establishment of the Greek 
Kingdom. 

The subsequent events of the history of Greece are well 
known. In 1832 Otho of Bavaria became the first King of 
Greece, to be driven out after a reign of thirty years, in 1862. 
In the next year William of Sonderburg-Glucksburg was 
elected king, and as George I. he has reigned ever since. The 
events of last spring are too recent to need repetition — the 
utter weakness and absolute worthlessness of the government 
were only too plainly shown. But the weakness and worthless- 
ness of the Greek people were not shown and cannot be shown. 



Athens 



273 



They are like all southern peoples, quick, impulsive, and 
utterly unpractical. What they need is a strong and honest 
government — a government that will lay the greatest stress on 
internal improvement and education along practical lines ; that 
will try, in fact, to rule the country according to nineteenth 
century ideas, and will not rely on a reputation made over 2000 
years ago. — Prof. Geo. A. Chase of the American College at 
Athens. 



Athens — More Familiarly 

" In Athens we saw good strong faces and forms. No 
fezzes, no veiled women, no men in petticoats. The appear- 
ance of the streets and of the inhabitants was European. The 
signs of the shops were Greek and interesting. As in all the 
cities we have visited, soldiers were much in evidence. Here 
and there we would find one dressed in the inconvenient and 
costly "fustenella" which requires forty 
yards of cotton cloth starched stiff and 
gathered at the waist and having the appear- 
ance (when clean) of an immense immaculate 
umbrella. Very few asked for backsheesh, 
but drivers and others needed watching when 
giving change and making agreements. 

I found a man of Piraeus who said he 
was one of about three Englishmen in the 
place. There were several men who could 
speak some English " knocking around," as 
he said, and these acted as guides. Ours 
was Dimitri, who gave me his card, and said 
he had been in the war with the Turks. 
They said the Turks lost about 50,000 men, 
and the Greeks 6000, and that the Turks were not taking any 
of their territory. 

There is a fine road from Athens to Piraeus, and I longed 
for a bicycle. We reached the ship, and as the ship left the 
harbor, taking the highest point on the upper deck, I watched 
the fading views of historic Athens ; the Parthenon and the 
Acropolis, backed by lofty Lycabettus were far in the distance ; 
the Piraeus and the Bay of Salamis notable for the naval battle. 




Greek Soldier 



274 



Athens 



I suppose I saw the slope where Xerxes sat and saw defeat for 
the Persians. Far away the blue outline of Hymettus, Pente- 
licus, and Parnes were just visible as "darkness brooded over 
the deep " and I descended.'' — Parke. 




A Funeral in Athens 



ROME 



ROME 



Bibliography 

Lanciani, Prof. R. Ancient Rome in the Light of Recent Discoveries. 36 plates. 

80 illustrations. (Macmillan.) 
Dennie, John. Rome of To-day and Yesterday. The Pagan City. Third edition. 

Maps. Plates. Illustrations from Roman photographs. New York. Latest 

and best. 
Hare, A. J. C. Walks in Rome. Maps. 2 vols. London. 
Hare, A. J. C. Days Near Rome. 2 vols. 
Hake, A. J. C. Cities of Central Italy. Illustrated. London. 
Symonda, J. A. Life and Times of Michael Angelo. Illustrated. 2 vols. New 

York. 
Crawford, Francis Marion. Ave Roma Immortalis : Studied from the Chronicles 

of Rome. 2 vols. Vol I, pp. X, 332, 50 illustrations in text and 15 photo- 
graphs. Vol. II, pp. IX, 344, 44 illustrations in text and 14 photographs. 

Map. Index. (Macmillan.) 
Literary Landimrks of Rome. (Lawrence Hutton) Harper s. 
Gii.man, Arthur. Rome. Illustrated. (Story of the Nations Ser.) New York. 

(Putnam.) 
MOMMSEN, Dr. Theo. History of the Roman Republic. Abridged. C. Brynes 

and F. J. R. Hendy. London. 
Merrvale, Dr. C. A History of the Romans under the Empire. 8 vols. B.C. 

60, A. D. 180. (Exactly fills up the gap between Mommsen and Gibbon.) 
Pastor, Prof. Ludw. (R. C.) History of the Popes from the Close of the Middle 

Ages. Translated by Fred. J. Antrobus (R. C). (Cath. Stand. Lib.) London. 

(Hodges.) 1893. 
Ramsay, Prof. W. M. The Church in the Roman Empire Before A. D. 170. Map. 

Illustrated. London, 1893. (An important authority.) 
Gibbon, Edward. Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire. 
Massi, Caw H. T. Description of (he Galleries of Paintings in the Papal Palace of 

the Vatican. Containing the historical account of the Vatican Palace, etc. 

Rome, 1897. 
Antinous ; A Romance of Ancient Rome. (Translated) Adolf Hausrath. (Pseud., 

George Taylor.) 
Iola, the Senator's Daughter : A Story of Ancient Rome. Mansfield. L. Hillhouse. 
Numa Pompilius (Eighth Century B. C). Jean Pierre Claris de Florian. 
Neaera: A Tale of Ancient Rome. John W. Graham. 
Burning of Rome ; or, Story of the Days of Nero. Alfred John Church. 
Gladiatores ■' A Tale of Rome and Judea. Geo. John Whyte Meville. 
Darkness and Dawn ; or, Scenes in the Days of Nero. Frederick Wm. Farrar. 
Greek Maid at the Court of Nero. (Translated) Franz Hoffman. 
Onesimus : Memories of a Disciple of St. Paul. Edwin A. Abbott. 
Quo Vadis: A Romance of the Time of Nero. Henryk Sienkiewicz. 
Valerius: A Roman Story. John Gibson Lockhart. 
Aurelian ; or, Rome in the Third Century. William Ware. 
Antonina ; or, Fall of Rome. Wilkie Collins. 
Rienzi: The Last of the Roman Tribunes. Bulwer-Lytton. 
Agnes of Sorrento. Harriet Beecher Stowe. 
Romola. George Eliot. 

Beatrice Cenci. Francesco Dominico Guerrazzi. 
Rome. (Translated) Emile Zola. 



{'IT,) 



278 



Rome 




" Pantheon— The Parliament Temple of all the Gods' 



The Pantheon 

The Pantheon, with its splendid dome, the admiration of 
the world, Michael Angelo's model of St. Peter, Raphael's 
most beloved building, for one thing we now know, is not 
the Pantheon of Agrippa, as stated in the inscription, which has 
remained on the pediment of the portico for over nineteen 
centuries. 

It was not " Marcus Agrippa," the son of Lucius, who, 
"in his third consulship," that is, twenty-seven years B. C, 
built this massive pile, but the Emperor Hadrian. Architec- 
turally, most readers know, the building has been a problem. 
Why a circular building with a dome should have a square 
portico with smooth columns violating the pure conception of 
the Romans in the Augustinian age, that is, having Corinthian 
capitals of marble on unfluted shafts of Egyptian granite ; 
why in the account of the building in the times of the early 
writers, that is, in the time of Agrippa and later, no mention of 
a dome should have been made or of a building of a circular 
character, and yet that this inscription should indicate an age 
when great domes and vaulted roofs were absolutely unknown ; 
these have been the puzzling problems. The solution of the dif- 
ficulty can be indicated in a word. In 1892, M. Chedanna, a 
student of the French Academy, in the department of architec- 
ture, selected the Pantheon as his special object of study and 



Rome 



279 



made careful measurements and examination. At the base of 
the dome, nearly opposite the door he discovered a leak and 
asked the authorities to repair it. In making the repairs, the 
first which had been made for a hundred years or more, they 
found bricks bearing the well-known stamp of the reign of the 
Emperor Hadrian, about a century and a half later than the 

time of Agrippa. 
M. Chedanne se- 
cured permis- 
sion to remove 
the stucco in var- 
ious parts of the 



building and 




3SB 




everywhere 
»•»- the same testi- 
mony was revealed, 
and so the injustice 
ot centuries was set 
right. It is the 
Emperor Hadrian's 
Pantheon added to 
the old porch of a 

Tiber, Forum, St. Peter's Dome, Castle of St. Angelus, Colosseum former temple of 

Agrippa destroyed by fire. 

The Pantheon, as its name indicates, was erected in honor 
of all the gods of pagan Rome. It is now a Roman Catholic 
Church, " St. Mary of the Rotunda," and under the great altar 
there are said to lie twenty-eight wagon-loads of bones of saints 
taken from the catacombs. Here also was buried the great 
and incomparable Raphael and many other famous artists to- 
gether with the King, Victor Emmanuel II, of Italy. 



280 



R 



ome 



Says John Denny, in his fascinating book " Rome of To- 
day and Yesterday," "The old romantic charm of the Pan- 
theon is still there. Whether on a bright day under a favoring 
sky one sees its interior all flooded with light, the perfect blue 
of heaven visible through the great aperture of the roof, the 
magnificent marble pavement and all the polished columns in 
their beautiful succession and the imposing curve of the dome 
perfectly revealed, or whether by rare good luck, entering it by 
night, there are no details only the majesty of the grand out- 
line of the stars across the open space above or in the impos- 
ing dignity of its immense mass seen from without, simple and 
most solemn of all buildings of the world ; it is the grand type 
of that magnificent empire, which stands foremost also in all 
the world." 

The Allerites will always remember the Pantheon in con- 
nection with that curious and almost phenomenal storm of hail, 
which kept us in front of the building for many minutes confined 



in our carriages. 




" While stands the Colosseum, Rome shall stand ; 
When falls the Colosseum, Rome shall fall ; 
When Rome falls — the •world," 



The Colosseum 
The Colosseum, with its stupendous dimensions, offers 
many points of interest and study. The thought of it, the 
pictures of it have haunted the imaginations of readers and 
students and travelers for centuries. No one can tell in 
advance what it is to see that great curve of masonry, a third 
of a mile long in its completeness, standing up in the air, at its 



Rome 28 J 

highest point, still to-day 150 feet. As we all know this 
immense amphitheatre was constructed simply as a place 
wherein the wholesale destruction of human and animal life 
should take place for the amusement of the spectators. To 
witness these scenes of murder and butchery, repeated from 
hour to hour, all day long, daily, for months together, eighty 
thousand spectators, from the highest to the lowest class, were 
bidden, and these gladiatorial shows lasted for three hundred 
years ; lasted fifty years after the Christian religion had been 
officially established at Rome. Says Denny, " Nothing that 
was ever built is such a monument of tyranny on the one side 
and subservience on the other. For the fatal service of the 
amphitheatre there were always held ready in Rome at least 
ten thousand men, furnished with weapons and extremely 
skilled in the use of them ; athletic, well fed, well lodged. 
Many of them had been once soldiers themselves, and in other 
days had met the Roman legions on battlefields and sometimes 
even defeated them. Now prisoners, they were absolutely 
certain of death. Strange effect of fear, frightful abjectness of 
man ! They did not forgive ; they were not resigned, but they 
made no defence. More than that, they yielded to the cere- 
monial of the arena, acquitting themselves of death as of a 
duty. They made the circuit of the amphitheatre ; they uttered 
the famous Ave. And then they let themselves be slaughtered. 
It is hard to-day to recall the facts as we look upon this 
old monument of a more cruel civilization, but we can conceive 
of the Colosseum, as it once was, in its entire circuit, with its 
ring of tall masts rising high above its topmost wall and carry- 
ing gay-colored awnings over the ranks of seats ; with statues 
in the arches of the second and third stories, a hundred and 
sixty of them, with the central arena strewn with sand or ver- 
milion ; with the marble seats and chairs, rank upon rank, to 
the topmost height, and perhaps an upper story of wood 
burned away at some later time. It is thought that there were 
fifty tiers of seats in the three ranks, sloping from a great height 
down to the arena, and this gave space for the magnificent 
feature of the building, the stately ring of corridors double on 
the ground floor and on the first story above it and single on 
the second story, which made an unbroken circuit within the 
great outer wall. Much of the space under the arena is laid 



282 



Rome 



bare to-day, and shows great stone dens for the wild beasts, 
with indications of lifts and of trap doors, by which, perhaps, a 
hundred wild beasts were let loose at once upon the arena. 
There may also be seen great drains and water channels and 
sewer arrangements running round the oval and under the 
walls, and in front of the dens water channels, through which a 
little stream even to-day makes its way, as if still some thirsty 
beast might lean over to drink of it." 




Interior of the Colosseum 



The story of the Colosseum everybody knows : its long use 
as an amphitheatre, continuing fifty years after Rome had offi- 
cially adopted the Christian religion ; then a silence of centuries ; 
presently its occupation as a fortress by one great Roman 
family and another. In 131 2 its temporary use as an arena 
for bull-fights ; then the beginning of its destruction for 
building material in 1362, when the legate of the Pope offered 
its stone for sale, and the marble was plundered by any one 
who wished to use it for lime ; then its continuous devastation for 
two centuries, until three great palaces, the Farnese, the Bar- 
berini and the Cancellaria, and two or three churches and a quay 
on the river had been built with it ; then papal attempts to utilize 



Rome 283 

the great ruin for industrial purposes, the fitting up in it of a 
woolen factory and various shops, and, lastly, its consecration 
to the memory of the Christian martyrs who perished in it, and 
at the present day its careful preservation as one of the grandest 
ruins of ancient Rome. 

No other structure stands out so magnificently as this wild 
ruin. Where it has suffered change it seems to have been to 
an advantage, because it has open vistas through the triple arch- 
ways and between the radiating walls which show the radiant 
blue of the sky and the Roman landscape beyond. Doubtless 
the Romans preferred it as they had it, and it gave them a 
thrill of delight to hear the sounds which issued from the great 
buildings as they trooped across the hills by thousands in the 
early morning for their day's pleasure (not only the citizens in 
their fine white togas, but also " the dark clad ones " on the way 
to their high gallery) to hear the heavy roar, the sharp cry, the 
prolonged howl from the dens beneath the arena, where the ani- 
mals for the day were kept ready presently to spring through 
the trap doors. But to-day there is not a place in the world 
more peaceful and more still than the huge amphitheatre. 

Far too many visitors only look up at the Colosseum and go 
their way, the eye is fatigued by the confused ruinous vaultings, 
the rows of seats, the wreckage of broken columns and arches ; 
but from a higher point looking down there is harmony, the 
noble plan of the building is seen, the broad, fine corridors, 
the clear oval ring concentric with the walls, the regular arch- 
ways, even the curious substructures of the arena all look well 
from above. 

The Appian Way 

One of the famous drives every visitor feels compelled to 
take is that along the Appian Way, at least for a certain dis- 
tance outside the walls of Rome. This great road originally 
one hundred and thirty miles in length, extending from Rome 
to Capua, is fifteen feet wide and is laid with diamond shaped 
lava blocks over which the Roman chariot wheels rolled and the 
Roman legions marched while as yet all Europe beyond the 
Alps was but a wilderness. 

For ten centuries or more this old " queen of roads" had 
lain buried and overgrown by vegetation until in 1850 Pope 



284 Rome 

Pius IX disinterred it for twelve miles at an expense of fifteen 
thousand dollars. The accuracy with which the irregular blocks 
of lava are fitted to each other is marvelous and tells the story 
of the stupendous labor and faultless skill which the Romans 
of the best epoch lavished upon their public works. Modern 
roadmakers might well take pattern of that ancient process, for, 
says Vitruvius, writing in the time of Augustus, " Parallel 
trenches were excavated," marking the width of the road and 
then between them the loose earth was thrown up until solid 
ground was reached and upon this were laid four distinct strata : 
one of stones, " as large as a man could take in his hand ; " 
next, a rubble of small, rough stones, mixed with lime and 
rammed down very hard with wooden beetles, to make a layer 




Appian Aqueduct 

nine inches deep ; upon this, a rubble made of broken bricks and 
fragments of pottery for a depth of six inches ; lastly, the great 
paving-stones, carefully fitted, so that the surface should be 
level as a floor. The nature of the ground in some regions 
modified the method of procedure ; on rocky soil the lower 
stratum of rough stones could be omitted ; in passing through 
marshy ground there was an elaborate system of pile driving. 
Crossing a valley, the road would be carried on a huge viaduct, 
like an aqueduct, either of solid masonry or built in arches. 
To keep the road as nearly straight as possible there was no 
hesitation in attacking the solid rock, in cutting fifty feet deep 
or more, and even tunnels in some cases were hewn out. 

The Forum 
The word Porum meant a market place. In the settling 
of ancient Rome the people living on the surrounding hills 
used to meet on the level ground between the hills to buy and 



Rome 



285 



sell and bargain and consult on matters of common interest, 
and thus they began to call the place the Forum. By and by 
all that concerned the town began always to take place in the 
Forum. The sacrifices in the temples, the business of every 
kind in the courts, the arrival of foreign envoys or couriers 
bringing news of the war ; some exciting harangue from the 
rostra, some hot war blazing up between two public men in 
which the listeners at once took sides, some sudden tumult or 
wave of public excitement or popular frenzy of some kind, 
sweeping the people with it and producing as in the case of 
Caesar, Cassius and Mark Antony the most unexpected and 
often dramatic action. 




The Forum 



Here were celebrated victories with trains ot captives ; 
here were stately ceremonials ; here were funeral processions 
and here were always idle crowds eager for amusement. 
By and by there came to be erected here rude shrines and 
altars and temples. Later there came to be great crowds of 
statues erected as marks of public honor, sometimes by the 
State, sometimes by individuals themselves, eager for immor- 
tality. These at times were cleared away by the decree ot the 
Senate, as it was always found essential to keep a central space, 
so that men might have room to meet each other freely and to 
loiter and talk as they pleased. 

The space of ground occupied for all this, neither the 
great builders nor the great destroyers could really change. It 



286 



Rome 



lay conveniently low in the valley between the Capitoline and the 
Palantine Hill, an irregular parallelogram not quite an eighth 
of a mile in length, but varying in width from a hundred to two 
hundred feet. 

There is only one ruin of the earliest forum left, its mas- 
sive walls having successfully defied time, the barbarians and 
the builders of the sixteenth century. This is the old record 
office of the republic, the Tabularium which is dated seventy- 
eight years before Christ by means of an inscription found in 
its interior. 





Hadrian's bridge and tomb built 1800 years ago 
Now castle and bridge of St. Angelo 



"The importance of the Forum 
began with the Republic and continued all through the history 
of Rome making that little space of ground the most memorable 
political centre of the entire world. Its historic interest is 
entirely independent of the buildings. It matters not that of all 
the constructions of those grand historic times scarcely a trace 
is left ; that the Senate house and the Rostra, the quaint archaic 
statues, the famous ruminal fig tree, the old shops and the new, 
that even the temples of the time of Camillus and Fabius and 
Metellus and of the Gracchi and the Scipios have disappeared, 
and that only ruinous heaps are left of the Forum of Cicero and 
Caesar and that a few tall columns of a massive arch, still stand- 
ing, belonging to a later age and a degenerate period, remain. 

The Forum itself belongs to the Republic, and the imagina- 
tion disregards all visible traces of the empire and peoples the 
space with the grand historic figures of a time when Rome, 
having little architectural splendor to boast of, might have said 
with Cornelius, "These are my jewels." 



Rome 



287 



To the ruins of the great Rostra of Caesar a very tragic 
interest clings, for this was the last finished work of the great 
Caesar in Rome and dates from 44, the year of his death. 
Here it is believed Anthony stood to appeal to the Roman 




St. Peter's 



people for vengeance on Caesar's murderers, while the dead 
Caesar lay at his feet. 

"At first sight," says Denny, "it seems impossible to tell 
what all this debris represents, but on a closer examination of 
the wreck the confusion is dispelled and the white Rostra reap- 
pears to the imagination the most regal platform for an orator 



288 



Rome 



that the world ever saw, 80 feet long and 1 1 feet in height, 
with its massive projecting" cornice carved in the pure Greek 
taste of the time. Below it in double rows the famous old 
bronze peaks of the ships, above it a low open balustrade pro- 
tecting- the sides and part of the front and interrupted in the 
centre for a space, so that the figure of the orator could be seen 
from head to foot. Finally, behind him who spoke, the grand 
silent fioaires in bronze and marble, the statesmen and heroes 




Interior of St. Peter's 



of an earlier clay. Overhead was the blue Roman sky, the back- 
ground was all temples, and around and beneath all, way 
across the Forum was the eager, listening, responsive crowd. 
Surely, whatever fire of eloquence a man had within him must 
have blazed high when he stood the central figure of such a 
scene." 

It is said that in Julius Caesar's time the valley of the 
Forum began to be much overcrowded and that the space 
available for public business had been much contracted. Caesar, 
therefore, gave an agent, who was none other than the great 
Cicero, a hundred million sesterces, about five million dollars, 



Rome 289 

to buy up these buildings, so that when he came home he could 
pull down the old rookeries. In three years he built the new 
Forum ami the splendid Temple of Venus, and placed his own 
statue on his own favorite charger in gilt bronze, like that of 
Marcus Aurelius on the Capitoline hill. 

To trace the changes in the Forum through its early his- 
tory, through the republic and the empire would be a difficult 
task, but those who have made the matter a study can, on the 
spot, point out the ruins of the various builders, for each exten- 
sion was named after its builder and planner. For instance we 
have the Forum ot Augustus forty years in building, the Forum 
of Caesar, the Forum of Nero, although its actual builder was 
the Emperor Domitian, the Forum of Trajan with its columns 
still remaining, and the arch and Forum of Vespasian con- 
taining the temple of peace and the so-called Forum Boarium 
or the Cattle Market, the place where the barbarians, after 
they had conquered Rome and broken down and destroyed the 
statuary and the noble surroundings, actually quartered their 
cattle and horses and fed them, and covered with debris the 
historic statuary and architecture. Some famous pieces of 
statuary have been unearthed and placed in the Vatican gallery 
and in the Capitoline Museum. It is ten thousand pities that 
for centuries many of the precious fragments of marble were 
burned in lime kilns. 

The Vatican 
That great mass of buildings on the low hill on the west 
banks of the Tiber called the Vatican takes its name from 
Vates, a soothsayer, and refers to a time when the ancient peo- 
ples of Rome made St. Peter's hill a kind of sacred spot a 
thousand years and more before St. Peter was born. Here 
were Agrippa's gardens and here Nero began the earliest 
Christian martyrdom, because the oppressed and the afflicted 
community of believers had erected here a little chapel from 
which grew in the long development of ages the noble and 
imposing Basilica, St. Peter's, the grandest of modern church 
buildings in the world. To give a historv of the Vatican and 
an account of its various buildings and art treasures would be 
to write a book recalling the growth of Roman Christianity and 
too, the development of art under Michael Angelo and the 
divine Raphael. 



290 



Rome 




Interior of "St. Paul's outside the Walls" 



Rome More Familiarly 

After our visit to Pompeii in the rain we were hurried, a 
damp, tired, sleepy collection of human beings, to the depot, 
and once more boarded the train for the Eternal City. This 
was about 11.30 P. M. Into the cars were pushed iron logs of 
hot water. It may seem primitive, but it was very acceptable. 
We passed through beautiful scenery, no doubt, but were unable 
to appreciate it in the darkness. The thing to do was to sleep. 
For seven long hours we endeavored to sleep horizontal, ver- 
tical, twisted, tortuous, serpentine. However, we reached 
Rome in good time for breakfast, and then began our sight 
seeing. 

First the Pantheon, in the midst of a hail storm, clattering 
both outside and in, for there is a large circular opening in the 
immense dome. The Colosseum, where Professor Renoud lec- 
tured in spots historic and gave us his views in quarter sec- 
tions, defending Nero and laying the blame upon his lieuten- 
ants ; the Forum, with all its marvelous history, containing the 



Rome 



291 



Rostra where Anthony and Cicero made their orations and 
where the body of Caesar lay. This interested me particularly, 
and I was proud to stand. where Cicero stood, to gesticulate as 
he may have done and to pick some flowers and a stone by 
which to remember the classical spot. 

St. Peter's, the Appian Way, the Capitoline Hill, where we 
passed a cage of eagles and one containing two wolves, remind- 
ing the visitor of the Roman eagle at the head of Caesar's 
legions and of the early difficulties Romulus and Remus had in 
gaining a livelihood. 




Cloisters of "St. Paul's outside the Walls" 



We passed between the equestrian statues of Castor and 
Pollux, the divine twins, to the area between the museum, 
which, with the town hall, had taken the place of the arches and 
temples of Jupiter and Juno. Not far away is the Tarpeon 
rock, whence evil doers were cast to destruction. The cackling 
of geese saved Rome, and here is where the melodious birds 
did their cackling. Then to the Church of St. John's Lateran, 
where popes used to be crowned ; then to the Santa Scala, or 
the holy steps. 

I was greatly interested in the steps, which were full of 
men, women and children, ascending on their knees the steps 
that Christ and Luther trod and which were said to have been 
brought from Jerusalem. The steps themselves, however, are 
covered with wooden slabs, but here and there are circular 
holes showing the marble beneath, which spots the faithful rev- 
erently kissed as they ascended. On each step a prayer is 



292 



Rome 




More "Cloister Galleries" 



repeated, and completing the whole a soul gets indulgence for 
a thousand years. I basely ascended the outside stair, and 
through the iron railing looked at what the Latin inscription 
said was the most sacred place in all the world, the private 
chapel of the popes, erected in 1278 and containing, it is said, 
a painting by St. Luke. 

In the baptistry of the Lateran and where Constantine is 
said to have been baptized, we witnessed a baptism in which 
the priest entered upon record the required data, anointed the 

baby's head w r ith oil, poured on 
sacred water and went through 
the rather lengthy formula in 
Latin so rapidly that I did not 
understand what he said. 
The baby specially concerned 
seemed to my inexperienced 
eye to be two weeks old, alto- 
gether too youthful to appre- 
ciate the solemnity of this 
occasion ; still, under the pressure brought to bear, he was well 
behaved, and- his language beyond criticism. 

We listened here to the musical doors, which I, at a short 
distance, mistook for an organ, and were shown mosaic ceilings 
and cedar from Lebanon. The doors are said to have been 
brought from the baths of Caracalla which we next visited- 
These baths cover 34 acres and were large enough to accommo- 
date 1600 bathers at one time. They provided both cold and 
hot water and steam. The ruins are huge and the indica- 
tions of past grandeur are numerous. The mosaics from the 
pavement of this are in the Museum of St. John's Lateran. 

Next we visited a portion of the great sewer of Rome, the 
Cloica Maxima, used for 2000 years and still in use. On the 
walls we were shown by the keeper the figures indicating the 
height of the water as it backed up from the Tiber. Lmder- 
neath the church of the Capuchins we entered the cemetery in 
which there is a suit of four rooms, decorated with the bones 
of thousands of monks who have been buried here since the 
sixteenth century. Some one has estimated that there are 
1200 square feet covered by these bones in fantastic shapes. 
The decorations are entirely of bones. It was the most ghastly, 



Rome 



293 



ghostly sepulchral scene I had ever witnessed. One skull is 
usually too much for a timid maid, but here bones are in baskets 
hanging from the walls, bones are in frescoes, in mosaics, in 
arches, in piles like cord wood around the room and hundreds 
of skulls grin like fiends upon those who enter. 

Ulna, femur, scapula, ribs, teeth, digits, skulls in weird 
fantastic combinations decorate this unique bone-yard of 
imperial Rome. 




" Under canopies of bones upon bone couches" 



Leaving this ghostly cellar we were taken to the Pincian 
Gardens on the Pincian Hills. We reached this elevation at a 
most propitious time, when the drives were filled with fine 
teams and carriages and the bon ton of the capital. Here I 
was able to gratify a wish to see Rome from above and see the 
seven hills of which we have as school boys read. It is not 
possible to distinguish all definitely, as rubbish and the dust of 
ages have filled the depressions between the hills, and, perhaps, 
the hills are not as high as our imagination has pictured them. 
Around and around the garden we drove, passing the strange 
water-clock, which seemed to be keeping Easton time and was 



294 



Rome 



incorrect in its indica- 
tions. To the north 
of " Monte Pinch " 
was the Boro-hesian 
villa and library, 
which we had not 
time to visit. We 
had not been blessed 
with a guide, and our 
driver was unable to 
speak English. Here 
is where my Latin 
was once more of 
value. Not only were we able to go where we wanted, but 
I wormed out of him some family history. To make him smile 
it was only necessary to praise his horse; " Equo bono, valirfo 
pulchro grandissimo" was sure to put him in a good humor. 
We were pleased with the type of mankind we found in 
Rome. They seemed more congenial, more good natured and 
cleanly than the Italians we had seen at Naples and those we 
afterwards saw at Genoa. — Parke. 




More of the Cappuccini Cemetery 



M- 



•oncer 



t prog 



ram 



"7 



Dampfer ,, ALLER " 
Donnerstag, den 24. Marz 1898 

1 ,,E1 Capiiain", Marsch Sousa 

2 Fest-Ouverture Schneider 

3 ,,WintergartensJ£rne", Walzer Kersten 

4 ,,Cavalleria rusticana" Mascagni 

5 ,,Ein musikalischer Moment " Potp. Wedemeyer 

6 ,, Plantation Echoes" Ross 

7 ,, National Airs of America" Moses 



LOGS 

Nautical, Edible, Social 



— - -■-.--■ .— ■ :._■ ,1 „ 




" tttngiaai 



-!^3{i--- 



» 



SAILING CHART USED BY ALLER ON HOMEWARD VOYAGE 
Alternate German And American Flags <were pinned on the Chart at the end of each day's run 




Logs, Nautical, Edible, Social 



297 



Address upon the Presentation of Watch and Purses to 
Captain and Officers 

Ladies and Gentlemen of the Clark- Aller Cruise : 

Some seven weeks ago we came together from widely 
separated parts of our own great country and from some of the 
Canadian provinces, and placed ourselves under the care of 
Captain Nierich, when on shipboard, and under the guardian- 
ship of Mr. Clark, when on land. 

Since that time we have crossed the Atlantic and traversed 
the entire length and breadth of the Mediterranean Sea, and 
visited nearly all of the interesting places on its classic shores. 
To-morrow we expect to arrive in Naples, and many of us will 
leave the ship for further European travel, and the cruise will 




To " Carri-her Pigeons " into vieiv 
One Cruiser thus ivas -won't to do 



practically be ended ; and yet it will not be ended, as its mem- 
ories will continue with us as long as any of us shall live. We 
will often stand on the ship's deck as we approach the Azore 
Islands, and will see the land rising up out of the ocean before 
us, until it reaches an altitude of 7600 feet, covered with a 
white crown of snow. We will often pass into the straits 
between Pico and Fayall and see, on either hand, land cov- 
ered with a garment of green, with olive, orange and almond 
trees and numerous villages with white churches, presenting a 
beautiful pastoral scene that delights the eye of a beholder. 

We will often stand upon the Mount of Olives and look 
down upon the Holy City ; upon the valley of the River Jor- 
dan and the Dead Sea glimmering in the sunshine, lying 4000 



298 Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 

feet below us ; upon the fair Judean Hills ; upon the Plains of 
Sharon ; upon the little town of Bethlehem, where Christ was 
born, and of Bethany, where He loved to go at night after the 
toils of the day were over ; upon the Mosque of Omar, with 
its domes and minarets, standing where Solomon's Temple 
once stood ; upon the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where 
Christ was laid in the new tomb of Joseph of Arimatha^a ; upon 
the valley of Jehosophat ; the Brook Kedron ; the Pools of 
Salome, the Garden of Gethsemane with its ancient olive trees ; 
upon the mountains of Moab, and upon every place made sacred 
by the birth, the life, the death and the resurrection of the 
world's Redeemer. 




Fog on " foio," face and film 

And then that golden day, that day borrowed from the 
treasury of heaven, when we were called by the bugle's blast 
at 5 o'clock in the morning to see the ship enter the classic Hel- 
lespont, now known as the Dardanelles, where Xerxes crossed 
on a bridge of boats from Asia to Europe, and where Alexander 
crossed from Europe to Asia, and across which Leander nightly 
swam to visit his beloved Hero, and where the great conquerors 
of Europe and Asia passed up to the Sea of Marmora and the 
Golden Horn. We will often pass through that classic sea, 
pass by the Golden Horn, through the Straits of Bosphorus 
into that inland ocean, the great Black Sea, back to the wharf 



Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 299 

in Constantinople and see more than ten thousand faces look- 
ing out from under turbans and red fez caps upon the strangers 
from a foreign land. 

We will often, while yet upon the Sea of Marmora, see the 
great city rising from out the water and disclosing, one after 
another, its thousand minarets, its domes, its mosques, its mag- 
nificent buildings of Saracenic architecture, until the whole 
magnificent view is spread out before us. Books will be writ- 
ten, newspaper articles will be printed, numerous lectures will 
be given, and, practically, this cruise will never end. 

We have left the land of the minaret, the camel, the donkey, 
the veiled women and the continuous cry for "backsheesh," 
and to-morrow will reach a land more or less familiar to all of 
us, and where we will exchange the Orient for the Occident and 
take a place again among a Christian community. 

All these weeks we have been under the watchful care of 
Captain Nierich and his officers, who have stood upon the 
bridge and guided the course of the great ship with remarkable 
skill and ceaseless vigilance. It was to be expected that a 
oreat company, like the North German Lloyd, would have 
capable and efficient officers in charge of their ships, but it was 
more than we could expect, that they should all be such kind 
and courteous gentlemen, and do so much in every way to 
make the ship a real home for the passengers. In substantial 
recognition of not only the skill and unceasing care, but the 
courtesy of all of the officers, the members of the Clark Allef 
cruise have procured a beautiful watch, which they have 
instructed me to present to Commander Nierich, and a purse 
to each of the officers of the ship and also the purser, to be 
used by them to purchase a souvenir of the cruise to be 
engraved in the same manner as the captain's watch. 

In addition to the world with which we are all familiar and 
are well acquainted, there is another world on this ship, a world 
of fire, of heat, of hissing steam and of revolving wheels, every 
turn of which brings us nearer our destined port. I am also 
instructed to give to the Chief Engineer a purse with a like 
inscription and to be used for the same purpose. And now, it 
only remains for me to convey to Captain Nierich and his 
officers the assurance that we will always hold him and them in 
orateful remembrance, and wish them all the richest blessings 
which earth can bestow. — Geo. Waldo Smith, Esq. 



300 Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 

Resolutions 
The following resolutions and expressions of appreciation 
were unanimously adopted at a meeting of the members of 
" Clark's Aller Cruise " assembled in the main saloon of the 
North German Lloyd steamship Aller, Thursday evening, 
March 24, 1S98 : 

Resolved, That the quiet and efficient manner in which discipline and 
order have been maintained on the ship Aller ; the courtesy and ability of the 
officers and stewards and their success in making the ship a real home to us 
during this cruise to the Orient has found spontaneous expression and universal 
recognition by every member of our company. 

Resolved, That the character, conduct and work of Captain Nierich and 
his staff of officers compels our admiration and esteem for them as men as 
well as seamen. Not for one moment has the most timid had occasion to give 
the slightest consideration to the management of the vessel, but all have been 
free to enjoy the pleasures of the trip undisturbed by accident, failure or 
mistake in conduct or management. 

The bravery and humanity of the officers of this vessel on a late occasion 
have found well-merited recognition elsewhere, but it is our privilege to 
further recognize their qualities as seamen and gentlemen and to express to 
them present and absent our appreciation of their qualities and our thanks for 
their attention and kindness. 

(Signed) 

G. WALDO SMITH, Chairman, 
ALFRED J. P. McCLURE. Secretary. 

On Board S. S. Aller, near Naples, March 24, 1898. 
Mr. Frank C. Clark : 

Dear Sir: — At a meeting of the Aller Cruise party held in the forward 
cabin this morning, there was such a spontaneous, unanimous and hearty 
appreciation expressed of the uniform, kindly and courteous treatment we 
had all received at your hands since you took charge of us in New York on 
February 5th last, that a resolution was passed appointing a committee of two 
to convey to you in these few words our sentiment of appreciation, of regard 
and esteem for you which we will all carry with us, as we separate at Naples 
to-morrow. 

It is not our desire to come to you with any stereotyped phrases or plati- 
tudes, for we have come to know you as a practical business man, but we do 
desire to express to you in this way our genuine and hearty appreciation of 
the ability and promptness with which you have carried out the details of this 
cruise, of your anxiety for our comfort, welfare and safety, and the very gen- 
erous manner in which we have been entertained — in which you have so well 
acted the part of host. 

The magnitude of the undertaking which you have so successfully and 
satisfactorily carried out is patent to us all, and we congratulate you most 
earnestly in having conceived and carried out to the letter thus far the largest, 



Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 301 

most extensive, most comprehensive and satisfactory cruise ever undertaken so 
far as we are aware, and we feel that you are entitled to the confidence and 
the consideration of the traveling public, to whom it will always be our 
pleasure to recommend you. 

Trusting that no single incident may occur that would in any way mar 
the pleasure of the return trip to New York, and not forgetting to recognize 
and to express our gratitude to a benign and kindly Providence that has so 
smiled on us during this entire trip, we wish you every success in your further 
undertakings, and assure you that it will be many a long day before there shall 
fade from our memory the pleasant recollections and the delightful associations 
and experience of the "Alter Cruise." 

(Signed) 

G. WALDO SMITH, 
GEO. D. SELDEN, 

Committee. 

Obituaries 

On Monday, the 7th of February, only two days out from 
New York, there occurred a sad event that served to remind us 
that the king of terrors holds sway on the ocean as well as on 
land. Mr. Rudolph, whose picture is among the list of our pas- 
sengers, a fine, genial-looking man, died from acute meningitis. 
He was taken with a severe chill soon after coming on board 
the vessel, and soon thereafter lapsed into unconsciousness, 
from which he was never aroused. He, with his wife, was 
booked for the full trip round the Mediterranean to Egypt and 
the Holy Land. Mr. Rudolph was a business man of excellent 
standing in Philadelphia, was a Knight Templar, a past com- 
mander of that order, and a member of several other associa- 
tions and societies. Funeral services were held according to 
the usages of the Knights Templar order, and were conducted 
by Sir Knight Rev. W. A. Hutchinson, D. D., of Jackson, 
Ohio. Dr. Hutchinson, in the course of his address, remarked 
" that though Mr. Rudolph had started with his wife for the Holy 
Land, militant and present, he had been quickly transported, 
we all hoped and believed, to that Holy Land triumphant." Mr. 
Rudolph was identified with the Baptist Church in Philadelphia, 
and his friends speak of him in this connection with apprecia- 
tion. The body was embalmed and taken with us to Gibraltar, 
our first stop. From there his sorrowing wife returned by the 
next ship with the body to New York and Philadelphia and home. 
As a Knight, as a member of our party, everything was done in 
the kindest possible manner for Mrs. Rudolph in her affliction. 



302 



Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 



" The announcement of the death of C. P. Skinner, Esq., in 
Westfield, N. Y., came to Ottawa, a sad yet not an unexpected 
message. It was a message that gave tidings that a pure and 
good man whose business affairs were successfully conducted 
within the limitations of the Christian's conscience and ideals, a 
gentleman "sans peur et sans reproche," had passed from the 
business life of Ottawa forevermore. He died as he lived, 
unobtrusively, calmly, courageously, "in the faith." He leaves 
to his social and his business world the legacy of the inspiration 
of one man's " unsullied fame." — Ottawa Republican-Times. 

Dr. Charles S. Robinson died in New York, February, 1899. 
He was, perhaps, one of the most distinguished of our pas- 
sengers, having written a number of successful books and beino- 
the compiler and publisher of the most popular Presbyterian 
hymn-books. His several books and booklets on Egypt are the 
best in a popular vein that have been written on that subject. 
At the time of his death he was at work on a new book on 
Egypt. Most of the passengers will remember his quick, keen 
wit and his inveterate punning. Other deaths are noted in the 
list of names by a :;:< I would have been glad to print notices 
if they had been sent me. 



The Voices from the Engine Room 

" Mill, forge an' try pit taught them that when roarin' they arose, 
An' whiles I wonder if a soul was gied them wi' the blows 
Oh, for a man to weld it then in one trip-hammer strain 
Till even first-class passingers could tell the meanin' plain." 



I am sure I voice the ex- 
perience of many another 
Allerite when I recall the weird 
impression made by the thump 
and beat of the screw and the 
rhythm of the engine. How 
many times as we turned in 
and laid an ear upon a restful 
pillow in our bunk, before 
many moments the plunge and 
thrust, the mighty sobbing, 
roaring strain of those iron 
giants laboring down below, 




"Vilhelm 1 



Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 303 

speeding our course with untiring power, framed for us a 
sentence distinct and clear. " Give me more room, clickety 
boom," were the words of the wrestling oqant to me, and if 
the sea was high or my spirits low, that last word without 
rhyme or reason subtly changed to " doom " and the phrase 
assumed a new meaning. At any rate, it was a real experi- 
ence, and has a flavor belonging distinctly to the cruise. Those 
giants seemed like real friends of life and heart as we peeped 
at them through the passage-way windows and watched their 
throbbing power. 

Later these marvelous lines of Kipling's came to my 
attention and fit so well upon the weird impression that I am 
sure many of the same mind will enjoy their reproduction. 

"That minds me of our Viscount loon — Sir Kenneth's kin — the chap 

Wi' Russia leather tennis-shoon an' spar-decked yachtin'-cap. 

I showed him round last week, o'er all — an' at the last, says he : 

' Mister McAndrews, Don't you think steam spoils romance at sea? ' 

Damned ijjit ! I'd been clown that morn to see what ailed the throws, 

Manholin', on my back — the cranks three inches from my nose. 

Romance ! Those first-class passengers they like it very well, 

Printed an' bound in little books ; but why don't poets tell ? 

I'm sick of all their quirks an' turns — the loves an' doves they dream — 

Lord, send a man like Robbie Burns to sing the Song o' Steam ! 

To match wi' Scotia's noblest speech yon orchestra sublime 

Whaurto — uplifted like the Just — the tail-rods mark the time. 

The crank-throws give the double-bass ; the feed pump sobs an' heaves : 

An' now the main eccentrics start their quarrel on the sheaves. 

Her time, her own appointed time, the rocking link-head bides, 

Till — hear that note? — the rod's return whings glimmerin' through the guides. 

They're all avva ! True beat, full power, the clangin' chorus goes 

Clear to the tunnel where they sit, my purrin' dyriamoes. 

Interdependence absolute, foreseen, ordained, decreed. 

To work, ye'll note, at any tilt an' every rate o' speed, 

Fra skylight-lift to furnace-bars, backed, bolted, braced an' stayed 

An' singin' like the Mornin' Stars for joy that they are made ; 

While, out o' touch o' vanity, the sweatin' thrust block says : 

' Not unto us the praise or man — not unto us the praise ! 

Now, a' together, hear them lift their lesson — theirs an' mine : 

* Law, Order, Duty an' Restraint, Obedience, Discipline !' " 

— Kipling s Mc Andrews Hymn, in "7 lie Severn Seas." 



304 



Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 



♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦J 

♦ ♦ 

♦ The Captain's Dinner X 

♦ ♦ 

♦ 'Dampfer „ALLER", den g. April 1898 ♦ 
X MITTACESSEN $ 
+ Falsche Schildkrdten-Suppe, Fleischbriihe + 



♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 

♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 

♦ 

♦ 

♦ 
♦ 
♦ 

♦ 
♦ 

♦ 
♦ 

♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 

: ; 

♦♦♦ ♦♦♦♦*♦♦♦ ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦<►♦♦♦«>♦♦♦♦♦♦ 



Cromesquis 

Rehbraten, Sauce venaison 

Tournedos, Stangenspargel 

Punsch a la romaine 

Poulardenbraten 

Birnen Rotlie Beeten 

Plum-Pudding 

Illuminirtes Apricosen-Eis 

Mandel Aufsatz 

Frucht Nachtisch 

Caffee melange 

¥ 

DINNER 

Mock-turtle-soup Consomme 

Cromesquis 

Loin of roe-venison, sauce venaison 

Tournedos, asparagus 

Punch a la romaine 

Roast-poulardes 

Red Beets 

Plum-pudding 

Transparent apricot-ice-cream 

Almond table-piece 

Fruit Dessert 

Coffee melanre 



Pears 







r 



> 



(^oncert Programme 

LAST EVENING ON VESSEL 

An entertainment for the benefit of the Seamen's 
Fund. Given Saturday evening, April 9, 1898, 
on board the good ship "Ailer," by the remain- 
ing pilgrims of Clark's Aller-Cruise. 

1 Quartette, " Where Would I be" 

2 Original Poem Mr. Chas. C. Craft 

3 Vocal Solo, " Life's Lullaby," Miss A. Mitchell 

4 Piano Solo, " II Penseroso, : ' Miss G. Penlield 

5 Reading Poem, " Reincarnation," 

Dr. A. J. Keckeler 

6 Vocal Solo, " When the Swallows Homeward 

Fly," Darkey Song, College Songs, 

Rev. J. L. Egbert 

7 Reading, " The Old Schoolmaster's Advice," 

Mrs. Chas. A. McFeely 

8 Vocal Solo, " Song of All Nations," 

Miss Carolyn Archbold 

9 Recitation, " Jes liefo' Christmas" and "Tom," 

Miss Wainer 

10 Vocal Solo, "All Through the Night," 

Mr. Fred. VV. Smith 

11 Chorus, " John Brown's Body," 

Carrie, Bancker, Dorothy, Gertrude, Jay, 
Junior, Minnie, Olive, Rodney, etc. 

12 Mississippi Boatmen's Song, "Ho Bob Riddley 

Ho," Mr. Egbert 

13 Mr. Gibson announced collection to be $25 

14 "Swanee River," By the Company 



Dampfer „ALLER" 

Sonnabend, den 9. April 1898 

„ Die romischen Spiele," Marsch, Carre 

Fest-Ouverture, Latann 

,, Immer und nimmer," Walzer Waldteufel 

,, Die Tost im Walde," Lied Schafer 
Potpourri of ,, German Student's 

Songs," Kohlmann 

,, Erinnerung an Naumburg" Petersen 



Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 305 

Craft's Retrospective Rhymes 
Read on the return round of the Dampfer Aller upon 
the occasion of the Seamen's Orphan Fund Entertainment. 

My friends and fellow-passengers, all of the Aller Cruise, 

My motive is to please you, not your patience to abuse, 

For many weeks we've traveled, o'er seas, on shore, to Rome, 

And now at last, the vessel's prow is headed straight for home. 

'Tis fitting then, in retrospect, the past to overlook, 

And call to mind the varied scenes, since passing Sandy Hook. 

In rain and fog we left New York, the outer bar was crossed ; 

We felt emotions loud and deep, as the Aller reared and tossed, 

But fleeting were our feelings, and we passed our victuals aft, 

And gained our sea legs sturdily like weather-beaten Craft. 

And then the Azores, emerald gems, that rose up out of seas, 

Which glinted with a deep blue-green ; and sights of fields and trees ; 

Light dotted huts of white on green, the windows gleaming bright, 

Till Pica's brow, mist-wreathed arose, and crowned the gem-set sight. 

Next Gibraltar's frowning heights, a lion rampart lay, 

It seemed a mighty barrier to stop our onward way. 

But Dampfer Aller' s little tug, though not a tug of war, 

Made light of thoughts so somber, and landed us on shore. 

Through winding ways in tunnelled rock we upward climbed to view 

The Spanish main, but not her might, for that is cut in two. 

Away again our vessel speeds to Afric's sunny climes, 

And when we waken in the bay, " Algiers," the bugle chimes. 

A succotash of sights and sounds and eastern tinted scenes ; 

Arabs, copts and Nubians mixed, as corn is mixed with beans, 

A misty morning next we have, a landing in the bay, 

But Naples' sights are not on view, Vesuve is hid away. 

Away again to Malta, where the Mardi-gras so gay, 

And Momus, god of Laughter, with festive rule held sway. 

Cairo next, Kaleidoscope, old Cheops, ancient tomb, 

With the Nilometer gardens where the Moslem flowers bloom. 

Ye ancient Sphinx and camels, ye donkey drivers cry, 

As though the Mouski, Turks and Jews solicit you to buy. 

Arabesques and Scarab-esques, Mosaics laid in pearl, 

Minarets and Hanker-cheffs, and presents for your girl. 

The moon lit scenes of Luxor, a dream of ancient fame. 

The Nile trip with its lunches, most as ancient as the same. 

The dromedary camel, with a howdah like a trunk, 

And just about as rigid as a steerage passage-bunk. 

And now away to Joppa, the city by the sea, 

Where Simon's house, the Tanner, of Bible fame, should be. 

Jerusalem the Golden, where milk and honey flows, 

And muddy smelly streets are viewed with clothes-pins on the nose. 

The waters of Siloam's pool and Jordan's muddy slope, 

The waters of the sea that's dead and tastes as strong as soap. 



306 



Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 



The cradle of our Saviour's birth, the Holy, Holy Land, 

God grant our visit's not in vain as Aller s Pilgrim band. 

Smyrna, Beirut and Ephesus are now but fleeting dreams, 

Past Bosphorus shores and Golden Horn the Aller quickly steams. 

As evening's lengthening sunbeams fantastic shadows mock, 

Our vessel led by a little tug is landed at the dock. 

Constantinople, even its letters are a mob ; 

As school boy how we trembled when we undertook the job. 

But now the spell is real enough, with Turks and turbaned things, 

" Far away Moses " now becomes a tier of turquoise rings, 

And Saint Sophia's bloody hand, like the writing on the wall, 

May only be the symbol of Mohammed nation's fall. 

Next Athens' might and Acropolis' height were stormed, but not by sword, 

While even Turkish bayonets were brought by us on board. 

Then Naples with its showers ; Pompeii we missed again, 

And left Vesuvius' sunny slopes quite moistly wet with rain. 

Rome, the eternal city, how bright its memory still, 

Of walking on its terraces, the view from Pincian hill. 

The Vatican with its glories, which many did not see — 

Quite like Campo Santo's sights which yet are still to be. 

As we left Genoa's rock-bound coast the finest days were ours, 

A day from Heaven's treasury whilst passing Azores' flowers. 

But then the sun-lit storm arose, with white-capped waves in sight, 

And prankish Neptune's mighty seas rose up to crow's nest height 

In the last sad hours that slowly passed, the tables e'en were racked, 

Like cork on giant waves we tossed, while the cylinder heads were 

packed. 
But so it goes, and here we are, with HOSPITAL intent ; 
The wonder is our pocketbooks contain a single cent. 
But for seaman's wife and sailor's child, an orphaned kid is he, 
Let's open up our little bag, and give most heartily. 
But now it's time to say good night, Farewell to the Aller Cruise. 
Full time to end this lengthy tale, turn in and take a snooze. 

— Chas. C . Craft. 











M& 




^- T *«_ _ — ^ 1 lla ^ 




P*'*? J' 





O'er seas, with these, on knees 



Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 



307 



Nearing Home, and the Last Experiences 
Tuesday, April 5th. — We have had beautiful weather since 
leaving sunny Italy, and have made good time, but to-day, on 
arising, we found a gale in our faces, and the waves, poetically, 
mountain high. They are the highest I have ever experienced, 
clashing sometimes over the captain's bridge and drenching the 
daring spectators of the ocean's fury. 

Another man took a sea-bath in the ladies' saloon. Seven 
bucketfuls and a half went clown his coat-collar, likewise ; unlike 
the first victim he did not swear, but sadly smiled and wiped 
away his tears — salty ones, I suppose. 

At noon to-clay we had made 401 miles, 
which is only 13 miles behind the record 
of the preceding day. We are 
satisfied, and hope that 



the waves may sub 

side and 

that 




Campo Santo— Genoa 



the noble vessel 
may keep her 
pledge. 

Arrangements 

were made to- 
clay to give an entertainment Thursday evening in aid of the 
Seamen's Fund. 

Wednesday, April 6th. — The past night has been a hard one. 
It was almost impossible to sleep. I rose early and investigated. 
The screw stopped, and while we merely floated I assumed to 
go up on the captain's bridge. Asking the gallant fourth offi- 
cer why he had slowed up, he said " that the passengers might 
get some sleep and the officers some rest." 

I called to mind the fact that they were not usually so 
thoughtfully inclined at six o'clock in the morning. I became 
suspicious. About this time I noticed a big wave, hairy with 
spray, making for the bridge. I made a sickly attempt to dodge, 
but got the full benefit, and retired, a saltier and wiser pas- 
senger. 



308 Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 

Before breakfast I had obtained five different and distinct 
reasons for the stopping of the engines. Perhaps the most 
authoritative one was the one assigned by the captain, which 
was that they had stopped two hours to put new packing in the 
cylinder. 

When the ship is under good headway among these mag- 
nificent waves, there is great pitching ; the 455 feet go up 
and down like a chip. The timbers creak and the wheel 
revolves with a velocity and an irregularity that makes the hull 
shiver and the people shudder. It seems as if something must 




The Three Graces 



break when subjected to such tremendous force. But our ves- 
sel is staunch and strong, and I have seen not more than two 
or three that felt discouraged and alarmed. 

When the engine stops the ship rolls. For breakfast this 
morning we had rolls of colossal proportion. It was positively 
dangerous in the dining-room. The shelves were on all the 
tables, but the dishes could not be controlled. The dishes on our 
table started a hurdle-race and aimed for poor Junior McClure, 
who was at the end of the table. The rest of us headed off as 
many stray articles as we could while we struggled to remain 
on our feet, but the poor boy was the centre of a fine collection 
of knives, forks, steak, saucers, oatmeal, plates, butter, milk 
and scrambled eggs. There was enough crockery gathered 
lovingly around him to set up housekeeping. 

A dignified lord not far from us had a pitcher of syrup upset 
in his lap. It is not hard to imagine with what external sweet- 
ness he left the room. As one passes from a room engaged in 



Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 



309 



such emotion, there is a wonderful amount of affection displayed 
for inanimate objects. Without a blush a woman will hug an 
unresponsive post for several consecutive seconds, then with a 
dainty half-grown scream will make for the nearest securely- 
anchored object, carefully avoiding unanchored men, who have 
enough to do to navigate in the same way. 

After the cylinder was packed we started off at a moderate 
pace, and at noon were brought face to face with the fact that 




" Two souls "with but a single thought, 
Two hearts that beat as one ; 
Two hungry, sea-sick passengers— 
"Between them one poor bun." 



we had lost 150 miles, having made only 249 miles in the 24 
hours. Nobody complains, for we are willing to go slowly and 
avoid the risk of breaking a shaft here in this unfrequented 
tract of ocean. 

Rain and wind and spray in the afternoon drove every one 
from the decks. The water, as it whizzed past the door, made 
us feel that it was safer within. Our song service was held as 
usual, but was brief. 

April 7th. — We had a rough and rather restless night. The 
winds are still severe and the waves are billowy and the Aller 
" pitchy." The sun came out about seven o'clock, and the 
barometer is rising. During the night an immense wave struck 



310 



Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 



over the whole ship, damaging the bridge and breaking a life- 
boat almost loose. The force of water in motion must be tre- 
mendous, for the iron railing was bent, and the wooden banis- 
ter, six or eight inches wide, was broken in two or three places. 
During the afternoon the sea became calm again, and the deck 
was frequented by the ladies. 

Friday, April 8th. — This is Good Friday, and we were reli- 
giously awakened by the band playing hymns. Many are sick, 
even those who escaped before. Old times are being revived. 
One told of a Senator from the West who threw up everything 
except his immortal soul and his commission as Senator. The 
weather seems to be good, but at twelve to-day we had made 
only 376 miles, which lessens our chances for landing on Sunday. 
It is remarkable how interesting these noonday figures of the 
captain are as we return. On the way over I scarcely deigned 
to notice them. We have passed about six vessels on our way 
back, all at a distance. Two of these were warships, as the 
officers reported. Some on board are making themselves 
believe that they were connected with the Spanish war. 

Saturday, April gth. — During the past night there was a 
storm and fierce head wind, and our run at twelve was 382 
miles, leaving over 400 miles yet to do. We still hope to reach 
New York in time to land on Sunday. We are having beauti- 
ful weather, and the sea is smooth. We have no pitch or rolls 
now. This evening we had our final dinner, and the effort was 
successful and appreciated. 

The captain made a short speech, and G. Waldo Smith, 
Esq , one in reply, and Rev. Mr. McClure proposed three 
rousing American cheers for the Aller and her captain. There 
was illuminated apricot ice cream, and a parade by the waiters 
preceded, with lights turned out, the band playing one of 

Sousa's marches and 



the passengers clapping 
their hands. 

To-night the much- 
announced entertain- 
ment took place, and a 
respectable sum will be 
turned over to the 
Seamen's bund. 




"And so the dreamy days went by " 



Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 3 II 

Conductors and Officers 

Manager: MR. FRANK C. CLARK. 

Conductors : 
MR. L. LEWIS, MR. J. R. STEWART, 

MR. LEON L. COLLVER, MR. ALFRED SCHWITZGUEBEI,, 

MR. HERMAN HORNSTEIN, 

Commander : R. NIERICH. 
Chief Officer: M. Malchow. Third Officer: P. Konig. 

Second Officer : L. Ammon. Fourth Officer : E. Zander. 

Physician: Dr. R. Ehebald. 

Chief Engineer : A. Kreth. Third Engineer : C. Kapitzky. 

Second Engineer : O. Laegel. Fourth Engineer : M. Winkler. 

Third Engineer : C. Wesemann. Fourth Engineer : C. Schutte. 

Fourth Engineer : B. Seehusen. 

_, \ A. Dreyer. 

Pursers : < _ ,, 

I G. Stede. 

Chief Steward : F. Vollers. Second Steward : E. Wohlfahrt. 

Second Steward : J. Stumpel, 
Head Chef: C. Miller. Second Chef: A. Schui.z. 

Second Chef: C. Vanselow. Second Chef: H. Sunkel. 

Transcript of the Alle/s Nautical Log: 

Departure from New York, February 5th, at noon. 
Feb. 6th, 331 miles. 
7th, 370 " 
8th, 338 " 
9 th, 351 " 
" 10th, 354 " 
' : nth, 345 •■ from 1.20 p. m. until the 12th Feb., 10.30 a. m., 

between Azores. 
' • 12th, 231 " 

" 13 th - 35i " 
li 14th, 346 " 
" 15th, 248 '• 7.00 a. m., arrived at Gibraltar. 



3 



266 miles. 



Departure from Gibraltar, February 15th, at 1.30 p. m. 
Arrived at Malaga, February 15th, at 5.30 p. m. ; distance, 59 

Departure from Malaga, February 17th, at 2.55 a. m. 
Feb. 17th, 130 miles. 
" 18th, 234 '• 6.45 a. m., arrived at Algiers. 



364 " 3 6 4 

Departure from Algiers, February iSth, at 6.40 p. m. 
Feb. 19th, 244 miles. 
" 20th, 323 " 7.20 a. m., arrived at Naples. 

567 << 567 



312 Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 

Departure from Naples, February 21st. at 4.08 a. m. 
Feb. 21st, 115 miles. 
" 22nd, 215 " 6.34 a. m., arrived at Valetta (Malta" 



330 " 330 miles. 

Departure from Valetta, February 22nd, at 8.25 p. m. 
Feb. 23d, 343 miles. 

" 24th, 376 " 

" 25th, 200 " 5.20 a. m.. arrived at Alexandria. 



819 " 819 " 

Departure from Alexandria, March 1st. at 3 47 p. m. 

Mar. 2nd, 270 miles, 9.45 a. m., arrived at Jaffa, 270 " 

Departure from Jaffa, March 2nd, at 6 p. m. 

Mar. 3rd, 141 miles, 6.15 a. m. , arrived at Port Said, 141 " 

Departure from Port Said, March 3rd, at 4.27 p. m. 

Mar. 4th, 156 miles, 6.27 a. m., arrived at Alexandria, 156 " 

Departure from Alexandria, March 8th, at 4 p. m. 

Mar. 9th, 270 miles, 8.40 a. m. , arrived at Jaffa, 270 " 

Rough sea ; impossible to anchor on Jaffa road ; kept the 
ship in sight of Jaffa until 4. 10 p. m. We dropped anchor 
near Jaffa ; impossible to disembark passengers. 
Departure from Jaffa, March 10th, at 7.45 a. m. Kept the ship 
in sight of Jaffa till noon; weather getting rougher; set 
off for Port Said. 
Mar. nth, 154 miles, 6.25 a. m., arrived at Port Said, 154 " 

Departure from Port Said, March nth, at 6.22 p. m. 

Mar. 12th, 132 miles, 6.25 a. m., arrived at Jaffa, 132 '• 

Departure from Jaffa, March 12th, at 10.35 a - m - 

Arrived at Haifa, March 12th, at 2.45 p. m., 55 " 

Departure from Haifa March 12th, at 5 p. m. 

Arrived at Beirut, March 13th, at 6 50 a. m., 70 " 

Departure from Beirut, March 14th, at 5.50 a. m. 

Arrived at Haifa, March 14th, at 1 1. 27 a. m. , 70 " 

Departure from Haifa, March 15th, at 6.35 a. m. 
Arrived at Jaffa, March 15th, at 12.15 a. m., 55 '• 

6778 " 

AVe are told by signals from shore, " Landing impossible ;" kept in sight 
of Jaffa till 3.06 p m. Dropped anchor and took passengers on board the 
next morning. 

Departure from Jaffa, March 16th, at 1.00 p. m., 

Arrived at Haifa, " 1 6 1 h , at 4.50 p. m. 55 miles. 

Departure from Haifa, " 16th, at 9.15 p. m., 

Arrived at Beirut, " 17th, at 6.20 a. m. 70 " 

Departure from Beirut, " 17th, at 3.00 p. m. 
Mar. 1 8th, 342 miles. 
" 19th, 322 " Arrived at Smyrna, 7.47 a. m. 



664 miles. 664 
Departure from Smyrna, March 19th, 6.50 p. m. 

Mar. 20th, 287 miles, 3.19 p. m. Passed Constantinople, 287 

Went up and back the Bosphorus, 32 



Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 



313 



Arrived at Constantinople pier, 6.00 p. m. 
Departure from Constantinople March 2 1st, at 6.00 p, m. 
Arrived Piraeus, " 2 2d, at 5.30 p. m., 

Departure from Piraeus, " 23d, at 6.00 p. m. 

Mar. 24th, 302 miles. 
" 25th, 371 " Arrived 9.45 a. m. at Naples. 



673 



Departure from Naples, March 28th, at 6.20 p. m. 
Arrived at Genoa, " 29th, at 2.40 p. m., 

Departure from Genoa, March 30th, at 10.24 a - m - 
Mar. 31st, 418 miles. 
Apr. 1st, 425 " Arrived 2.45 p. m. at Gibraltar, 



843 miles. 
Departure from Gibraltar, March 30th, at 10.18 p. m. 
April 2d, 222 

" 3 d - 4M 

'• 4th, 414 

5th, 401 

6th, 249 

7th, 316 

8th, 374 

9 th, 382 

10th, 414 

Sandy Hook, 31 

Hoboken Pier 22 



3 2 39 



THE LAST LOG BULLETIN OF THE ALLER CRUISE POSTED 



364 miles. 

673 •' 

345 " 
843 " 



2 39 



6572 
6778 

'3 35° 





Ef@r<idi#iit^€fai#r ILlQydi 




Vampfer QiUw £pi\ K. VliczicW 

Sonua&c ub den 9 ^ dptil 189 8 

40° 50 911 Breite und 64° 4 9lt Lange. 

Zuriickgelegte Distanz : Jol Seemeilen. 

Distanz bis flCtliC 2772 Seemeilen. 

7 Tage \J.D Stunden in See. 

cftot" &ia Saubu efCcKm 450 





IT. M. II. Form 152. 5000 



oft. ^DZiciich 



314 



Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 



THE EDIBLE LOG 
Transcript of the Pursers' Record 

A Few Items of Provisioning for the Alter Cruise 



Fresh Beef, 
Veal, 
Mutton, 
Calf's Head, 



24,426 lbs. 

2,393 " 
6,446 » 
58 pieces. 



Calf Sweetbreads 624 " 

Liver, 292 lbs. 

Salted Beef, 3,515 " 

Fork, 3,225 " 

Kidneys, 80 pieces. 

Calf Tongue, 100 " 

Ox Tongue, 95 " 

Brains, 100 " 

Fressed Beef, 942 lbs. 

Mutton, 679 " 

Bacon, I ,5 I 3 " 

Smoked Pork, I > 1 93 " 

Hams, German, 228 pieces. 

Hams, English, 116 " 

Dried Beef, 397 lbs. 

Corn Beef, 13 " 
Corned Canned Beef, 666 cans. 

Spring Lamb, 225 pieces. 

Fresh Sausage, 85 lbs. 

Venison, no " 

Herring, 3 barrels. 

Herring Boxes, 24 doz. boxes. 

Fine Herrings, 196 tins. 

Sardels, 10 1 " 

Sardines, 575 " 

Anchovies, 98 " 
Anchovies Essence, 1 7 glasses. 

Canned Oysters, ro8 tins. 
Fresh Oysters, 12,000 pieces. 

Clams, 100 tins, 1,516 " 

Eels in Jelly, 102 tins. 

Laurel Leaves, 3 3/10 lbs. 

Black Pepper, 23 6/10 " 

White Pepper, 11 6/10 " 

Oil, Sweet, 542 glasses. 

Oil, 2,627 " 

Vinegar, 35 barrels. 

Astragen Essence, 16 glasses. 

Wine and Tap, 61 14-bbls. 
Red Wine, 

Straws, 7 packages. 

Yellow Soap, 449 lbs. 



Toilet Soap, 3>°3° pieces. 

Hard Soap, 6 " 
Rubbing Wood Brushes, 

187 

Brooms, 187 " 

Olives, 692 glasses. 
American Oatmeal, 390 lbs. 

Rice, 629 J^-lbs. 

Rice, 1,215 ^s. 

Julien, 124 packages. 

Celery, 75 

Sago, 48 lbs. 

Meal, 18 bbls. 

Rye, 28 " 

Wheat, 163 ' " 

Buckwheat, 129 lbs. 

Baking Powder, 310 " 

Fresh Turtles, 55 " 

Lobsters, 460 " 

Preserved Lobsters, 255 tins. 

Preserved Salmon, 226 " 

Crabs, Deviled, 22 boxes. 

Fresh Fish, 5 ,90 5 lbs. 

Salted Mackerel, 106 " 

Smoked Mackerel, 45 " 

Salt Cod, 36 " 

Clip Fish, 720 " 

Raisins, Sultana, 33 3/j^-lbs. 

Smyrna Raisins, 170 lbs. 

Corinth Raisins, 46 " 

Sacad, 10 )4-lbs. 
Oranges and Man- 
darines, 35,150 dozens. 

Lemons, 9, 167 " 

Prunelles, 186 lbs. 

Apricots, 164 " 

Figs, 433 " 

Hazel Nuts, 199 " 

Sweet Mandles, 144 " 

Dates, 46 " 

Dried Peaches, 204 " 

Cream Cheese, 584 " 

Edam Cheese, 471 " 

Swiss Cheese, 573 " 

Chester Cheese, 202 " 

Crown Cheese, 274 " 



Logs Nautical, Edible, Social 



315 



Rocquefort Cheese, 


458 lbs. 


Meal, 


1 4 div. 


Vanilla, 


IOI 


bottles. 


Cheyenne pepper, 


3 t 


lo/. cases 


Mace, 


1 


710 lbs. 


Olive ( )il, 


5/1 1 


lottles. 


Pulverized Sugar, 


415 


11 IS. 


Pudding Powder, 


- 33 


cans. 


( Iranulated Sugar, 


3-55° 


" 


Beans, 


1,236 ] 


pounds. 


1 .iimp Sugar, 


1,380 


" 


AVhite Cabbage, 


2 59 


" 


( loffee, 


J o95 


•' 


Green Cabbage, 


105 


" 


Coffee, 


1 ,36 1 


u-lbs. 


Sour Cabbage, 


1 ,980 


" 


Tea, 


57 


lbs. 


Green Herbs, 


2,214 


" 


Tea, 


i 96 


'_, lbs. 


White Peans, 


2, 1 90 




Chickory, 


178 


■ + -ll>s. 


Maccaroni, 


] 5 2 


" 


Chocolate, 


2 99 


lbs. 


Smoked Herrings, 


88 


buses. 


Cocoa, 


4-2 


" 


Salmon, 


33 


'_, dioxes. 


Bottles of Milk, 


286 




Smoked Eels, 


18 


" 


4 Barrels of Milk, 


902 


tins. 


Star Smoked Eels, 


18 


" 


2 Barrels of Milk, 


9M 


" 


Ducks, 


921 


piei es. 


Potatoes, Sweet, 


54 


bushels. 


Hens, 


,380 


'• 


Potatoes, 


1,686 


" 


Chickens, 


5-I.30 


" 


Butter, i st grade, 


.1-367 


lbs. 


Capons, 


I.Q73 


" 


Butter, 2d grade, 


I 5 I 


" 


Geese, 


5°5 


" 


Salt, 


24 


l.bls 


Turkey, 


2,780 


" 


Eggs, 


38.759 


do/. 


Pigeons, 


800 


" 


Plums, 


5 7,3 


lbs. 


Pheasants, 


96 


" 


Prunes, 


589 


t . 


Fish, 


5/0 


" 


Apples, 


384 


1 2 -bushel. 


Grouse, 


580 


" 


Apples, 2nd, 


284 


bushels. 


Guinea 1 lens, 


70 


" 


Raisins, 


1.3 


boxes. 


Herbs, 


583 


pounds. 


Pineapples, 


240 




Pearl Beans, 


-94 


" 


Glasses of Assorted 






String Beans, 


304 




Fruit, 


58 




Carrots. 


-97 


•< 


Jellies, 


93 


glasses. 


Asparagus, 


2 93 


tins. 


Candy Syrup, 


68 bottles. 


Asparagus, 


382 


" 


Raspberry, 


- 5 - 


. t 


Parsnips, 


221 


bushels 


Pickles, 


166 


" 


Cabbage, 


10 5 


heads. 


Challotter, 


28 


" 


Beets, 


50 1 


mshels. 


Mixed Pickles, 


26S 


" 


Artichokes, 


157 pounds. 


Pickletus, 


65 




Mushrooms, 


147 


cans. 


Olives, 


2 1 6 bottles. 


Truffles, 


142 


" 


Capers, 


38 


" 


Murrells, 


62 


" 


Tomatoes, 


278 


cans. 


Lima Beans. 


69 




Tomato Puree, 


96 


" 


Succotash. 


62 


" 


Corn, 


20 


1 _. boxes. 


Pears, 


3°3 




Catsup, 


2 5 




Cranberries, 


!45 




Ox-tail Soup, 


1 '7 


4 . 


Strawberries, 


185 




Ox Tongues, 


581 


•' 


Cherries, 


3-<> 


' • 


Ducks, 


5 - 


do/. 


Apricots, 


306 




Kieken, 


5" 


" 


Noodles, 


50 


■ ' 


Little Birds, 


4'' 




Egg Food, 


51 


'.j-lbs. 


Prairie Chicken. 


5° 


•• 


Oat Meal, 


6 9 


i ases. 


Cinnamon, 


-5° 


•• 


Gelatin, 


'5 


1 _. barrels. 


Sulz, 


3>°55 


" 


Prandv, 


6t 


' 4 do/. 


( ringer, 


IC 








eti ., etc. 



O 

as 



Si 



S 
g 



"> *** 2 
H cq ^ 




NV330 
VXXV7J. V 



g 


£ 


"5 


-2 






3 


E 

<3 


"a 




«5i 


5 


c 

3 


s 




-2 

3 


^5 
3 






^ 

5 


to 








a. 

JO 


<o 




4 




D, 


*^5 


S3 




. 


-+« 


«i) 






to 

a. 




o 


^ 




£ 


<£ 








to 




<o 

to 


"5> 
>o 






2 


£ 








•ae 


to 






va; 


•2 






£ 


<0 

.to 

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^ 


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316 



The Value of Travel 



XT 



A 



I feel like recommending a sea voyage to busy 
men and women — especially to those who are be- 
coming somewhat advanced in years. I would 
like to write myself down as a lover of the sea. I 
believe the lives of many people might be pro- 
longed if they would take an occasional sea 
voyage. It is a grand thing to breathe the ozone, 
and witness day after day the vast expanse of the 
sea. 

Speaking of traveling in a general way, I never 
have been able to understand why (if he was cor- 
rectly reported) such a wise man and such a gen- 
uine philosopher as Ralph Waldo Emerson should 
have been led to say that " traveling is the fool's 
paradise." I make bold to say "traveling is not 
the fool's paradise," but a recreation to be taken 
by wise men and wise women, as opportunity may 
offer. 

A. 



A 



A 



J\ 



The Infatuation of It 

Life, O ! life of the free'st kind ; 
For the love of the life most unconfined, 
A tramp, a gypsy, a wanderer free, 
From land to land, by rail, o'er sea. 

For no far end, nor search nor learn, 
Only to live ; no longer to burn 
With consuming fire to get and to keep, 
Torturing the day and murdering sleep. 

Away, go cruising, cast off all chains, 
Banished is care and vanished are pains- 
Sweet art of travel for sweet art's sake, 
A joy, a dream ! let me never awake. 



A 



A 



A 




317 













Mr. W. M. Abell, New York City, N. Y. 
Mr. J. J. Albertson, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Mrs. Albertson, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Miss Anna M. Albertson, Philadelphia, 

Pa. 
President, Edwin A Alderman, Chapel 

Hill, N. C. 
Mr. W. S. Alger, Villisca, Iowa. 
Mrs. Alger, Villisca, Iowa. 
Hon. Frank D. Allen, Boston, Mass. 
Mrs. Allen, Boston, Mass. 
Mr. Alex. M. Amos, Buffalo, N. Y. 
Mr. C. W. Archbold, Parkersburg, W.Va. 
Miss Caroline Archbold, Parkersburg, 

W. Va. 
Miss Abbie B. Ayre, Albany, N. Y. 
Mr. Frank H. Babb, San Jose, Cal. 
Mr. Philip Bachert Buffalo, N. Y. 
Mr. James W. Baird, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Mrs. James W. Baird, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Miss Maude Ernestine Banks, Waltham, 

Mass. 
Mr. George J. Barker, Waltham, Mass. 
Mrs. Barker, Waltham, Mass. 
Mr. Henry Barnett, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Mrs. Barnett, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Miss Fleurette G. Barnett, Philadelphia, 

Pa. 
Mr. Harry N. Barnett, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Mr. Frank N. Barnett, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Mr. George F. Barnett, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Dr. Jno. M. Barton. Rome, N. Y. 
Mr. Anthony Batt, Buffalo, N. Y. 
Mr. Harrison L. Beatty, Bainbridge. N.Y. 
Mr. Emil A. Becker, Erie, Pa. 
Mr. T. Broom Belfield, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Mr. Jno. E. Bell, Minneapolis, Minn. 
Mrs. J. E. Bell, Minneapolis, Minn. 
Mr. Wm. M. Bell, Pittsburg, Pa. 
Howard P. Bellows, M.D., Boston, Mass. 
Eri D. Bemiss, M.D., Newark, N. J. 
Mrs. Bemiss, Newark, N. J. 
Mr. D. Bennett, Lexington, Ky. 
Mr. A. J. Bloor, New York City, N. Y. 
















*% \, 



3'9 












W&f- 1 















40 



4-2 

4.3 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 

5i 
52 
53 
54 

55 

56 
57 
58 
59 
60 
61 
62 
6j 
64 
65 
66 
67 
63 
69 
70 
7i 
72 
73 
74 
75 
76 



73 
79 
80 
Si 
82 
83 
84 
85 
36 

87 



Mr. Thos. Bolton, Tr., New York Citv. 
N. Y. 

Mrs. Bolton, Jr.. New York City, N. Y. 

Miss Catherine E. Bolton, Brooklyn, N.Y. 

Mr. Geo. W. Bosworth, Lexington, Ky. 

Mr. Benj. J. Bowen. Boston, Mass. 

Mr. Robt. Brearley, Harrogate, England. 

Mr. N. J. Brittan, San Francisco, Cal. 

Mrs. Martha L. Buck, Decatur, 111. 

Mr. E. W. Buell, Waterville, N. Y. 

Mr. A. P. Burton, Erie, Pa. 

Rev. G. Bickley Burns, Ph.D., Philadel- 
phia, Pa. 

Miss M. E. Cady, Dryden, N. Y. 

Dr George W. Caldwell, Gloversville, N.Y. 

Rev. Jno. L. Caldwell, Pine Bluff, Ark. 

Rev. Robt. E, Caldwell, D.D., Winston, 
N. C. 

Miss Florence A. Carmichael, New York 
City, N. Y. 

Mr. A. E. Carpenter, Hamilton, Ont. 

Mrs. Carpenter, Hamilton, Ont. 

Mr Carpenter, Jr., Hamilton, Ont. 

Rev. J. M. Cassin, Santa Rosa, Cal. 

Rev. Wm. R. Chase, Edison, Ohio. 

Mrs. J. C. Cheney. Fort Dodge, Iowa. 

Mr. Walter W. Chipman, Warsaw, Ind. 

Rev. J. J. Chisholm, Picton, Nova Scotia. 

Miss Diathia Cook, Chillicothe, Iowa. 

Mr. Charles M. Cooper, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Miss Emily W. Cottrell, Danville, Pa. 

Mr. Charles C. Craft, Crafton, Pa. 

Mrs. Craft, Crafton, Pa. 

Miss Emma B. Culbertson, Boston, Mass. 

Rev. George L. Curtiss, Columbus, Ind * 

Mr. Jno. Curry, San Francisco, Cal. 

Hon. S. M. Cutcheon, Detroit, Mich. 

Mrs. Cutcheon, Detroit, Mich. 

Mr. David Davis, Bloomington, 111. 

Mrs. George P. Davis, Bloomington, 111. 

Miss Rose Mary Dobbins, Woodworth. 
Ohio. 

Rev. Jno. A, Donelly. S. Natick, Mass. 

Mr. James Dunstan, Hancock, Mich. 

Mrs. Dunstan, Hancock, Mich. 

Miss Nina Dutton, Boston, Mass. 

Mr. Henry PI. Earl, Fall River, Mass. 

Rev. Rush S. Eastman, Torresdale, Pa. 

Rev. Jno. L. Egbert, Springfield, Mass. 

Mr. Henry P. Emerson, Lynn, Mass. 

Mrs. Emerson, Lynn, Mass. 

Mr. Joseph Erhart, Erie, Pa. 

Mis5 Georgia K. Espey, Bloomington, 111. 



* Deceased 



320 




Officer Zander 



Capt. Nierich 



Surgeon Ehebald 





' 



88 Mr. John F. Falvey, Boston, Mass. 

89 Mrs. Falvey, Boston, Mass. 

90 Mr. Owen F. Fatzinger, Catasauqua, Pa. 
gi Mrs. Fatzinger, Catasauqua, Pa. 

92 Mr. P. B. Finley, Scranton, Pa. 

93 Mrs Finley, Scranton, Pa.~ ;: " 

94 Mr. Jacob R. Foster, Shelburne Falls. 

Mass. 

95 Mr. Albert F. Fox, Washington, D. C. 

96 Mrs. Fox, Washington, D. C. 

07 Rev. I. M. Gable, Ph.D., Chester, Pa. 

98 lion. Jno. B. Gale, LL.U. , Williamstown, 

Mass. 

99 Mrs. Gale, Williamstown, Mass. 

100 Miss Mary A. Gardner. Fall River, Mass. 
lor Mr. G. W. Carrels, St. Louis, Mo. 

102 Mrs. Garrels, St. Louis, Mo. 

103 Miss Cora Garrels, St. Louis, Mo. 

104 D. P. Gerberich, M.D , Lebanon, la. 

705 Mr. James Gibson, Jr.. New York City. 
N. Y. 

106 Mrs. Gibson, New York City, N. Y. 

107 Mr. Rodney Gibson, New York City, NA'. 

108 Master Jno. Bancker Gribbel, Wvncote. 

Pa. 

109 Mr. Fred Gramme, Marshalitown, Iowa. 

110 Mrs. Gramme, Marshalitown, Iowa. 
in W. R Hamilton, M.U , Pittsburgh, Pa. 

112 Mrs. Hamilton, Pittsburg, Pa. 

113 Miss Mary L. Hanna, Bloomington, 111. 

114 Mr. S. H. Harrington, Chicago, III. 

115 Miss Mary H. Hayes, Unadilla, N. Y. 

116 Miss Minerva H. Hayes, Unadilla, N. Y. 

117 Air. Richard Heagany, Hartford City. Inci. 

118 Rev. Edw. Yates Hill, Warsaw, Ind. 

119 Mr. W. C. Hill. Buffalo, N. Y. 

120 Mrs. Mary H. Hoag!and. Franklin Park. 

N.J. 



* Deceased 




: %!:■ 














RHik 1 


I. J 




.. : : 


! 


w 




m 


E 









€D 




■/»•- 













121 Rev. Peyton H. Hoge, D D., Lecturer, 

Wilmington, N. C. 

122 Miss Bertha R. Houghton, Worcester, 

Mass.y 

123 Miss Clara M. Huchendorf, Atlantic, 

Iowa. 

124 Mr. E. Huchendorf, Atlantic, Iowa. 

125 Miss Katherine Hun, Albany, N. Y. 
12(5 Miss Lydia L. Hun. Albany, N. Y. 

127 Mr. John Hunter, Philadelphia, Pa. 

128 Rev. W. A. Hutchison. D. D., Lecturer, 

Jackson, Ohio. 

129 Mr. Wm. S. Hutchings,- Moosic, Pa. 

130 Miss Charlotte D. Irish, Pittsburg, Pa. 

131 Mr. W. B. Isham, New York City. N. Y. 
13.2 Mr. Isaac M. Jackson, Plymouth, Mass. 

133 Mr. George W. Jenks, Shelburne Falls, 

Mass. 

134 Mr. Robt. Jenkins, Jr., Pittsburg, Pa. 

135 Mrs. Jenkins, Pittsburg, Pa. 

136 Mr. Jos. J. Jermyn, Scranton, Pa. 

137 Mr. James Jones, Philadelphia. Pa. 

138 Dr. A. T. Kechlcr, Columbus, Ohio. 

139 Mr. Patrick J. Keenan, Boston, Mass. 

140 Mr. K. tl. Kendall, New York City, N. Y 

141 Mrs. Kendall, New York City, N. Y. 

142 Miss Elizabeth E. Kennedy, Pittsburg, Pa. 

143 Mr. Joseph Krotz, Buffalo, N. Y. 

144 Mr. John G. Lane, Philadelphia, Pa.* 

145 Mr. Walter Learned. New London, Conn. 

146 Mrs. I^earned, New London, Conn. 

147 Rev. Joseph Lee, Brooklyn, N. Y. 

148 Mr. G. E. Leighton, Boston, Mass. 

149 Mr. Wm. Lindig, Philadelphia, Pa. 

150 Mrs. A. R. Loomis, Fort Dodge, Iowa. 
.151 Miss Bertha Loomis, Fort Dodge, Iowa. 

152 Mr. Edgar A. Lord, Chicago, 111. 

153 Miss Mary B. Lord, Chicago, 111. 

151 Mrs. H. C. Luce, Bloomington, 111. 

155 Mr. Henry J. Lutcher, Orange, Texas. 

156 Mrs. Lutcher, Orange, Texas. 

157 Mr. Jno. B. Luther, Fall River. Mass^ 




OUR FOREIGN LECTURERS 




Consul Wallace Prof, ■van Millingen 



Prof. Chase 



Prof. Reynaud 



I 5 8 

159 

160 
161 
162 
163 
164 
165 
166 
167 
168 
169 
170 

171 

172 
I/.5 

i74 
175 
176 
177 
17S 
179 

180 
181 

182 

183 

184 

185 
186 

187 



Rev. Alfred J. P. McClure, Lecturer, 
Wyncote, Pa 

Mrs. Alfred J. P. McClure, Wyncote, Pa. 
Master Jay Cook McClure, Wyncote, Pa. 
Master Alfred McClure, Jr., Wyncote, Pa. 
Mr. H. C. McClure. Gibson City, 111. 
Mrs. McClure. Gibson City, 111. 
Rev. P. E. McCorry. Goshen. N. Y. 
Mr. Chas. A. McFeely, Pittsburg, Pa. 
Mrs. McFeely, Pittsburg, Pa. 
Miss Olive B. McFeely, Pittsburg, Pa. 
Mr. C. H. Mclntire, Newark, N. J. 
Mrs. Mclntire, Newark, N. J. 
Mrs. David Mcintosh, Jamaica Plains, 

Boston, Mass. 
Mr. Russell W. McKee, New York City, 

N. Y. 
Mrs McKee, New York City, N Y.* 
Mr. Henrv B. McKee, New York City, 

N. Y. 
Miss Ella McKee, New York City, N. Y. 
Mrs. Lydia T. McKee, San Jose, Cal. 
Miss Catherine C. McKee, Pittsburg, Pa. 
H. McLean, M. D., I hiladelphia, Pa. 
Mr. Wm. J. McMullin. Philadelphia. Pa. 
Mr. Allen McPherson, Longford Mills, 

Canada. 
Miss Louise McVey, Binghampton, N. Y 
Rev. Thos. S. McWilliams, Montreal, 

Canada. 
Mr. Win. A. Mahoney, New York City, 

N. Y. 
Miss Prestonia Mann, New York City, 

N. Y. 
Miss A. M. Manning, Hartford, Conn. 
Mr. Joseph Markward, Ironron, Ohio. 
Mr. Joseph H. Marr, Hamilton, Ohio. 
Mrs. Marr, Hamilton, Ohio. 



Deceased 



323 


















e 



*i 






Mr. Charles M. Martin, Norwich, N. Y. 

Mr. Cyrus B. Martin, Norwich, N. Y. 

Mr. M. D. Martin, York, Pa. 

Mrs. M. D. Martin, York. Pa. 

Mr. J. B. Mauser. Treichlers, Pa. 

Mrs. Manser, Treichlers, Pa. 

Miss Edith E. Melluish, Bloomington, 111. 

Mrs. S. T. Meservey. Fort Dodge, Iowa. 

Mr. Franklin Miles, Rochester, N. Y. 

Mrs. Miles, Rochester, N. Y. 

Mr. L. B. Miller, Elizabethpon, N. J 

Miss A. H. Milkr, Elizabethport, N. J. 

Hon. B. B. Mitchell, Troy, Pa. 

Mrs. Mitchell. Troy. Pa. 

Mrs. Jas. E. Mitchell, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Miss Mitchell, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Mrs. Sarah A. Morgan, Pittsburg, Pa. 

Mr. James T. Morrison, Ithaca. N. Y. 

Mr. George H. Morrill, Boston, Mass. 

Mrs. Morrill, Boston. Mass. 

Mr. Wm. F. Morris, Baldwinsville, N. Y. 

Rev. H. J. Mulligan, Chelsea, Mass. 

Rev. Wm. F. Murphy, Conneaut, Ohio. 



211 
212 
21 A 

214 
215 
216 

217 

218 
219 
220 
221 



223 
224 

225 
226 
227 
228 
229 

230 

231 
232 
233 
234 
235 



Miss Julia A. Nelson, Allegheny, Pa. 

Miss Margaret L. Nelson. Allegheny, Pa. 

Mrs J. A. Nipgen, Chillicothe, Ohio. 

Mr. James Nolan. Reading, Pa. 

Hon. Crosby S. Noyes, Washington, D. C 

Miss Amy L. Opel, St. Louis, Mo. 

Hon. Cbase S. Osborne, Sault deSainte 

Marie, Mich. 
Prof. Samuel R. Park, Easton, Pa. 
Rev. J. G. Patton, Decatur, Ga. 
Rev. J. H. Patten, Mariette, Ga. 
Dr. E. Treat Payne. Noroton Heights, 

Conn. 
Mrs. Payne, Noroton Heights, Conn. 
Miss Georgia M. Penfield, New York- 
Mrs. Isaac N. Phillips. Bloomington, 111. 
Mr. Fred. I. Pratt, Boston, Mass. 
Mrs. Pratt. Boston, Mass. 
Silas D. Presbrey, M. D., Taunton, Mass. 
Miss Clara B. Presbrey, Taunton, Mass. 
Miss Florence N. Presbrey, Taunton, 

Mass. 
Rev. Stephen A. Preisser, Syracuse, N. Y. 
Mr. H. C. Price, Philadelphia, Pa. 
Mr. C. H. Raiter, Alexandria, Minn. 
Mrs. Raiter, Alexandria, Minn. 
Miss Kate G. Rea, Danville, Pa. 
Mr. F. S. Read, Chicago, 111. 




325 




236 Mr. Eli S. Reinholcl, Mahanoy City, Pa. 
2ij Miss Carrie S. Reinoehl, Mahanoy City. 
Pa. 

238 Miss Lvdia Wistar Rhoads, Philadelohia. 

Pa. 

239 Mr. D. A. Richaidson, Cambridge, Mass. 

240 Mr. Wm. Cummings Richardson, Boston. 

Mass. 

241 Rev. G. H. Rieken, Perrysburg, Ohio. 

242 Mr. George S. Ringland, Fort Dodge, 

Iowa. 

243 Mrs. Ringland, Fort Dodge, Iowa. 

244 Miss J. M. Ringland, Fort Dodge, Iowa. 

245 Rev. C. S. Robinson, D.D., New York- 

City, N. Y * 

246 Mr. Jno. R. Rogers, Decatur, 111. 

247 Miss Jeanette Rogers, Decatur, 111. 

248 Rev. Peter Ronan. Boston, Mass. 

249 Mr. Sebation Roth, Buffalo, N. Y. 

250 Miss Laura L. Ruddle. East Mauch 

Chunk, Pa. 

251 Mr. S W. Rudolph, Philadelphia, Pa.* 

252 Mrs. Rudolph, Philadelphia, Pa. 

253 Mrs. M. Rumsey, St. Louis, Mo. 

254 Miss Marian Rumsey, St. Louis, Mo. 

255 Miss Elma Rumsey, St. Louis, Mo. 

256 Mr. J. J. Russell, Jefferson, Iowa. 

257 Mrs. Pussell, Jefferson, Iowa. 

258 Miss Helen Russell, Jefferson, Iowa. 

259 Mr. Harry Ryrie, Toronto, Ont. 

260 Mrs. Harry Ryrie, Toronto, Ont. 



* Deceased 



326 




261 Rev. J. H. Sankey, Rochester, N. Y. 

262 Mr. George Schleicher, Philadelphia, Pa. 

263 Rev. Jos. Schmitt, Ironton, Ohio. 

264 Mrs. Matthew T. Scott, Parson. Kan. 

265 Mr. E. U. Scoville, Manhus, N. Y. 

266 Mrs. Scoville, Manlius, N. Y. 

267 Col. A. Frank Seltzer, Lebanon, Pa 

268 Mr. Geo. D. Selden, Erie, Pa. 

269 Mrs. Selden, Erie, Pa. 

270 Miss Selden, Erie, Pa. 

271 Master Selden, Erie, Pa. 

272 Mr. D. S. Shellabarger, Decatur. 111. 

273 Mrs. Shellabarger. Decatur, III. 

274 Mr. James G. Shepherd, Scranton, Pa. 

275 Henry C. Shurtleff, M. D., Philadelphia, 

Pa. 

276 Mr. Stanley Sills, New York City, N. Y.f 

277 Mr. Charles P. Skinner, Ottawa, Kan.* 

278 Miss Laura A. Skinner, Westfield, N. Y. 

279 Mr. J. C. F. Slayton, Boston. Mass. 

280 Mr. A. H. Slayton, Morrisville, Vt. 

281 Miss Josephine Slayton, Morrisville, Vt. 

282 Miss Melhe M. Slayton, Morrisville, Vt. 

283 Miss Olive M. Slayton, Manchester, N. H 

284 Mr. Arthur J. Smith, Philadelphia, Pa. 

285 Mr. Daniel R. Smith, Adams, Mass. 

286 Mrs. D. R. Smith, Adams, Mass. 

287 Miss Mary A. Smith, Boston, Mass. 

288 Mr. Frederick Wm. Smith, Binghampton, 

N. Y. 

289 Hon. Geo. Waldo Smith, New York City, 

N. Y. 

290 Mrs. Smith, New York City, N. Y. 

291 Miss Lily L. Smith, New York City, 

N. Y.f 

292 Mr. Waldo Smith, Jr., New York City, 

N. Y. 



* Deceased 
t Married 





k £B 






















327 



1 













j 







M ^ 






293 Mr Chas. W. Snow, Syracuse, N. Y. 

294 Miss Carrie L. Snow, Syracuse, N. Y.y 

295 Mr. Jno. R. Specrs, Pine Bluff, Ark. 

296 Rev. G. C. Spencer, New Milford, Conn. 

297 Miss Mary A. Stahr, Norristown, Pa. 

298 Mr. M. B. Staley, South Rend, Ind. 

299 Mrs. Staley, South Rend, Ind. 

.300 Mr. Arthur C. Staples, Taunton, Mass. 

301 Rev. Wm. J. Steans, Danville, Pa. 

302 Mrs. Steans, Danville, Pa.. 

303 Mr. Chas. O. Stearns, Roston, Mass. 

304 Mr. J. H. Sternbergh, Reading, Pa. 

^os Master J. Harvey Sternbergh, Reading. 
Pa. 

306 Mr. E. M. Stiles, Paterson, N. J. 

307 Mrs. Stiles, Paterson, N. J. 

308 Mr. Harry G. Stimmell, Spokane, Wash. 

309 Mrs. Stimmell, Spokane, Wash. 

310 Miss Stimmell, Spokane, Wash. 

}ii Rev. E. W. Stoddard, D.D., Succasunna. 
N.J. 

312 Mrs. Stoddard, Succasunna, N. J. 

313 Mr. Jno. W. Stoddard, Dayton, Ohio. 

314 Mrs. Stoddard, Dayton, Ohio. 

315 Miss Alice Stoddard, Dayton, Ohio.f 

316 Miss Florence Stoddard, Dayton, Ohio. 

317 Mr. Gustave Sues, Roston, Mass. 

318 Mrs. Gustave Sues, Roston, Mass. 

319 Mr. Harry Swisher, Newark, Ohio. 

320 Mr. W. R. Tisdale, Orillia, Out. 



I Married 



328 




32i Mr. Wm. Thompson, Butte, Mont. 

322 Mr. Geo. Townsend, New York Citv, 

N. Y. 

323 Mrs. M. L. Townsend, New York City, 

N. Y. 

324 Rev. J. H. Tuohy, Lincoln, 111. 

325 Mr. Albert H. Upton, Adams, Mass. 

326 Miss Agnes Van Valkenburg, Hartford 

City, Ind. 

327 Rev. Michael Vollmeyer, Custer, Ohio. 

328 Mr. Ed. Voris, Crawfordsville, Ind. 

329 Mrs. Voris, Crawfordsville, Ind. 

330 Rev. Daniel S. Walsh, Butler, Pa. 

331 Mr. Edgar W. Warren, Newton High- 

lands, Mass. 

332 Mrs. Warren, Newton Highlands, Mass. 

333 Mr. John Warner, Clinton, 111. 

334 Miss W'arner, Clinton, 111. 

335 Miss Mary A. Watts, Manchester, N. H. 

336 Mr. Buck Weems, Decatur, 111. 
33J Mr. James Wherry, Allegheny, Pa. 

338 Mr. Benj. Whitman, Erie, Pa. 

339 Rev. Geo. Whitman, D.D., Buffalo, N. Y. 

340 Miss Hattie S. Williams, Taunton, Mass. 

341 Miss Janie R. Williams, Fayetteville, 

N. C. 

342 Miss Martha Williams, Wilmington, N. C. 

343 Mr. Jas. P. Wint, Catasauqua, Pa. 

344 Mr. C. D. Winter, Jermyn, Pa. 

345 Hon. Harry R. Wilson, Claiion, Pa. 

346 Mrs. Harry R. Wilson, Clarion. Pa. 

347 Mr. O. J. Woodward, Fresno, Cal. 

348 Mrs. Woodward, Fresno, Cal. 

349 Miss Abbie Woodward, Fresno, Cal. 
^350 Miss Clare G. Wolcott, Longmeadow, 

Mass. 













mi 





329 




' 




GOOD <BYE 



330 



INDEX 



/ owe my cousin, Prof. Park, Mr. Archbold, Mr. Spencer and Miss A. 
special thanks for clever, amusing and informing contributions unpaged 
in this index. Matter unattributed and unquoted is the compiler's. 



PAGE 

Abell, W. Maitland, LL. M 1 1 

Acre 94 

Aegean and Marmora Seas 246 

Alderman, Pres. Edwin A 105 

Alexandria 128 

Algiers, History of 73, 74 

Arab Quarters 76 

Beggars 78 

French Control 77 

Geronimo, Martyrdom of 75 

Winter Resort 75 

Alhambra 55 to 68 

Abencerrages Hall, Tragedv of. .59,60 

Alhamar 61, 62, 63 

Alhambra, by Whom Built 60, 61 

Charles V, Palace of 66, 94, 95 

Court of Lions 59, 67 

Duke of Wellington 67 

Ferdinand of Aragon 65 

Isabella, Queen of Castile 65 

Perfumery Room 60 

Saracens, The 61 

Washington Irving 56, 63 

Aller's Log 311, 313 

Amusements 33 

Ring Toss 33 

Shuffle Board 33 

Appian Way, The 283 

Archbold, C. W. Here and there 

Athens 264 

Academies of Plato and Aristotle. 269 

Acropolis 267 

American School, The 269 

Athens More Familiarly 273 

Averoff, Public Spirit of 271 

Emperor Hadrian's Additions .... 270 

Erectheum 265, 268 

George I, Present King 272 

Greek People, Characteristics of. 273 

Hill oi the Muses 266 

Historic Sketch of Athens 264 

Lyceum on the Slopes of Lycabettus 269 

National Museum 270 

Otho of Bavaria, First King of 

Modern Greece 272 

Parthenon 265, 267 to 272 



Pentelicon, Marble Quarries of . . . 267 

Piraeus 266, 273 

Pnyx, Hill of the Nymphs 266 

Propylae 268 

Road from Piraeus to Athens .... 273 

Stadion, The 270 

Temple of Athena 265 

Theseum 268 

Unknown God, Preaching of by 

St. Paul 271 

Asia Minor 223 

Azores and Portugal 7,7 

Columbus 39, 66 

Flemish Navigators 38 

Mt. Pico 38,297 

Balls 43 

Band, The 26 

Beatty, H. L 165 

Beirut 223 

Bibliographies of 

Algiers 73 

Azores and Portugal 37 

Constantinople 245 

Egypt 123. 124, 125 

Ephesus, Smyrna, Damascus 223 

Gibraltar, Alhambra, Granada, 

Moors 47 

Greece 263, 264 

Italy 109 

Malta 89 

Mediterranean Region in General 23 

Plan of Bibliographies 11 

Rome 277 

Syria, Jerusalem, etc 169, 170 

Black Sea 247 

Bliss, Dr. Daniel 224 

Bosphorus 247, 258, 259, 298 

Buckley, Dr. J. M 143 

Bugle Calls 29 

Bulletin Board 43 

Cairo 140 

Captain's Dinner Card 304 

Character of Allerites ■ 9 

Character of People 9 

Chase, Prof. Geo. A 273 



331 



332 



Index 



PAGE 

Citta Vecchia . 92, 97, 100 

Cleopatra Needles 134 

Coal Required 24 

Courtesy of Dr. Bliss and Faculty. . . . 224 

Colosseum, The 280 

Concert Programs 66, 294, 304 

Conductors and Officers 311 

Constantinople 245 

Aegean and Marmora Seas 246 

Art Treasures of Constantinople, 

255, 258 

Black Sea 247 

Bosphorus 247, 258, 259, 298 

Dardanelles 246, 298 

Director Hamdi Bey 255,256 

Dogs of Constantinople ..... .248, 254 

Eastern Question, The . . .252, 253, 254 

Golden Horn, The 249, 250, 298 

Hero, Priestess of Venus 246 

Influence of Constantinople ..251,252 
Leander Swims the Hellespont. 246, 298 
Lord Byron's Imitation of Leander 246 

Museum of Antiquities 255 

Professor Long 249 

Professor Van Millingen . .248, 249, 251 

Robert College 258, 259 

Saint Sophia, Mosque of 249 

Sarcophagus of Alexander the 

Great 256 to 258 

Craft's Retrospective Rhymes 305, 306 

Cruise, Cruisers and Cruisin' Things, 

by the Compiler 24 to 32 

Damascus 225 

Bazaars 228 

Houses 226, 227 

Pharphar and Barada Rivers .... 226 

Railway to 226 

Dead Sea 173, 204, 205 

Dimensions of Ship 24 

Dogs of Constantinople 248, 254 

Eastern Question, The 252,253,254 

Eating and Digesting 27, 29 

Edwards, Miss. A Thousand Miles 

up the Nile 141 

Eggs and Chickens 30 

Egypt 123 

Age of Women 143 

Alabaster Mosque 145 

Alexandria 128 

Architecture, Character of 130 

Bedrashen 158 

Buckley, Dr T4.3 

Cairo I40 

Chefron ^q 

Cheops the Great 148 to 149 

Citadel, When Built and by Whom 144 



Cleopatra Needles 

Delta 

Edwards, Miss 

Eidersheim 

Erman 129, 

Famous Students and Philosophers 

Father Nile 

General Gordon 

General Grant on Egypt 

Gizeh Museum 156, 

Gizeh, Pyramids of 145 to 

Heleopolis 

Hieroglyphics 

Incident on the Way to Thebes . . 

Khartoum 

Khedive, Palace 

Land of the Nile and the Pharaohs. 
A Lecture, by the Compiler 126 to 

Luxor 

Mameluke Beys 

Mariette Bey 133, 149, 156, 

Memphis 

Mohammed Ali 

Mosque, Character of 

Muezzin Call 146, 

Nile Bridge ' 

Nile, Length of 

Nile, Overflow of 

Nileometer, The 

Nubians at Luxor 

"Old Glory" 

Oldest Human Works 

Pharos, The 

Piers, Magnificent Stone 

Pompey's Pillar 

Program for Egypt 

Pyramids as Cemeteries 

Pyramids, Dimensions of .... 150, 
Rameses II 156, 



Robinson, Dr 133, 158, 301 

Rosetta Stone 131 

Sacred Bulls, Apis Tombs 160 

Sakeiyah 139 

Sakkara, Pyramids of 145 

Scarabi as Discoverers 157 

Seti I and Rameses II. Discovery 

of 132, 160 

Shadoof, The 139 

Sources of Information 131 

Sphinx, Location of 146 

Sphinx, Ride to 151 to 154 

Step Pyramid 160 

Streets of Cairo. Motley Crowd 

141, 142 

Ti, Tomb of 160 

University of On 160 



34 
45 
4i 
61 

33 
29 

37 
38 
28 
58 
50 
60 
60 
62 

38 

46 

61 

57 
44 
59 
.58 
44 

45 
81 
46 
36 
37 
37 
64 

35 

30 

27 

35 
27 
26 
48 

55 
60 



Index 



333 



PAGE 

Egypt — Continued 

Vegetation 138 

View from Mosque of Mohammed 

Mi 145 

Water Jars 142 

World's University, The 129 

Writing, Interpretation of 132 

Yashmak 141 

Eidersheim, Dr. Alfred 161 

Erman, Dr. Adolf 129, 133 

Esdraelon, Plains of 216 

Ephesus 231, 2T,2, 234, 240 

Diana of the Ephesians and 

Artemis 234, 238 

Famous Names and Associations. . 2^2 

Justinian's Church 240 

Maeander River 2^ 

Mob of Ephesus 238 

Rugs, Drugs and Figs 2^^ 

Saint John and Ephesus 239 

Saint Paul's Advent and Influence 

-237. 238 

Seven Sleepers Cave 2^2 

Temple of Diana 231, 236 

Woods' Researches 231, 235 

Father Nile 137 

First Breakfast, The 18 

Forum, The 284 

Food 29,314 

Fourth Officer 32 

Gibraltar, Alhambra and the Moors. 

A Lecture, by the Compiler. .481068 

Apes of Gibraltar 52 

British Lion, The 50 

Expense to England 51 

Gebal-el-Taric 50 

History of Si 

Mixed Population of 5 2 

Phoenicians, The 5° 

Sprague, Horatio J 54 

Verses Carved on Sentry Box .... 47 

Waterport Ticket 47 

Gizeh Museum 156, 158 

Good Bye 33° 

Granada 55 

Cathedral of 65, 68 

Time Table. Granada to Malaga.. 70 

Grand Masters of Malta 94, 96 

Hoboken 17 

Hodge, Rev. Peyton H, D.D 240 

Horse-back Trip Through Samaria and 

Galilee 206 to 219 

Cana of Galilee 217 

Dothan 215 

Esdraelon, Plains of 216 

Gibeah 209 



l'AGE 

Haifa 219 

Last View of Jerusalem 208 

Mizpah 210 

Mount Gerizim 212 

Nablous, Shechem 212, 213 

Nazareth 217 

Ramah 210 

Samaritan Pentateuch 213 

Sea of Galilee 218 

Selecting Horses 206 

Shiloh 210 

Hutchinson, Rev. W. A., D.D 97, 219 

"In a Moment of Exhilaration" 101 

"In the Glooming" 22 

Incident on the Way to Thebes 162 

Index 331 

Infatuation of Travel 317 

Irreverent Donkey at Olivet 195 

Italy 109 

Jaffa Episode 171 

Jerusalem and the Land of Promise. 

A Lecture 1 73 

American Friends Schools 190 

Amusements 182 

Armenians 190 

Bells of Churches 181 

Boys' Schools 190 

Brook Cherith 203 

Character of Country 178 

Church Missionary Society 190 

Church of England 190 

Church of Holy Sepulchre ...181,298 

Climate 173, 175 

Damascus Gate 179, 196 

Dead Sea 173, 204, 205 

El Aksa Mosque 18 1 

Evangelical Germans 191 

Filth 176, 177, 180 

German Lepers Hospital 191 

House of the Good Samaritan .... 203 

Houses 179 

Jaffa Gate 179, 184 

Jordan and Dead Sea, Trip to. . . . 

202, 206, 297 

Jordan Valley 173 

Leprosy 191 

Lighting of 182 

Local Government 1 82 

London Jews Society 190 

Masonic Lodge at Jerusalem .... 201 

Missionary Work i8S. [89 

New Jerusalem 183 

Population 185 

Prophecy, Possibility of Fulfill- 
ment 192, 194 

Quarries of Solomon 196 



334 



Index 



PAGE 

Jerusa'em and the Land of Promise. — 
Continued 

Resources of Land 193 

Russian Pilgrims 203 

Statistics and Buildings of Various 

Christian Bodies 186, 189 

Stores 180 

Streets 179 

Synagogue of Khal Stamboul .... 181 

Ticket to Pool of Bethesda 201 

LTnited States Consulate 183 

Walls 184, 185 

Water 178 

Jordan and the Dead Sea 202 

Kipling 9, 12, 302 

Knights of St. John 93 

Land of the Nile and the Pharaohs. 

A Lecture 126 

Lincoln's Birthday 39, 40 

Logs, Nautical, Edible and Social 297 

Address of Geo. Waldo Smith 
Upon Presentation of Watch and 

Purses to Officers 297 

Captain's Dinner Menu Card 304 

Concert Programme, Last Evening 

on Vessel 304 

Conductors and Officers, List of. . 311 
Craft's Retrospective Rhymes .... 305 

Edible Log, Provisions 314 

Good Bye 330 

Index 331 

Infatuation of Travel 317 

Last Bulletin Posted 313 

Map of Route 316 

Nearing Home and Last Experi- 
ences 307 

Obituaries 301, 302 

Passenger List 319 

Pictures of Passengers .319, 329 

Provisioning of Ship 314 

Resolutions of Appreciation . . .300, 301 

Route Map 316 

Sailing Chart 317 

Value of Travel 317 

Voices from the Engine Room. . . . 302 

Long, Vice-Pres. Albert L 249 

Lost and Found 30 

Malaga 54, 68, 69 

Sierra Nevadas 55 

Spanish People, High and Low. . . 54 

Malta 89 

A Lecture Delivered on Shipboard 89 

Acre 94 

Baldwin, King of Jerusalem 94 

Birthplace of Hannibal, Menander, 

Aulus Licinius 92 

Catacombs, The 99 



PAGE 

Cathedral of St. Paul 98 

Charles V 94, 95 

Citta Vecchia 92, 97, 100 

Dogs, Maltese 99 

Faldetta, The 96, 09 

Grand Masters, The 94, 96 

Keys of Jerusalem, Acre and 

Rhodes 96 

Knights of St. John 93 

Napoleon Bonaparte 96, 07, 100 

Peter Girard 94 

Peter the Hermit 94 

Railway Ticket 97 

Richard Coeur de Lion 94 

St. John, Cathedral of 96 

St. Paul's Bay 100 

St. Paul's Shipwreck 93 

Shrove Tuesday 99 

Tapestries, The 96 

Valetta 91 

Map 316 

Mariette Bey 133, 149, 156, 159 

Masonic Lodge at Jerusalem 201 

Masonic Meeting in Quarries of Solo- 
mon 197 

Masonic Traditions 196 

Memphis 158 

Menus 19, 21, 28, 79 

Michael Angelo 278, 289 

Mock Trial of Dr. Hamilton . . . .240 to 242 

Money 3 1 . 3 2 

Mount Aetna 117 

Muezzin Call 146, 181 

Naples in 

King Humbert's Palace in 

Pompeii 119 

Scylla and Charybdis 117 

Streets of Naples, The 112 

Stromboli 117 

Ticket to Vesuvius 1 17, 1 18 

Up Vesuvius on Donkey Back .... 118 

Vesuvius, Eruption of 120 

Vesuvius, The Ride to 113, 114 

Nearing Home and Last Experiences. . 307 

Nierich, Captain 25, 299, 310 

Obituaries 301, 302 

Officers and Crew 26, 27, 299, 311 

Orders for the Day 

Alhambra Trip 66 

Egypt, Program 126 

Malta Excursion 89 

Naples Excursion ill 

Osburn, Chase S 201 

Pantheon, The 278 

Park, Prof Here and there 



Inde^ 



335 



PAGE 

Parting Words 13 

Passengers and Officers . . . .24, 27, 311, 319 

Pennsylvania Day 79 

Address of Col Seltzer 79 

Address of Maj. Reinhold 85 

Philadelphia Statistics 83 

Pictures of Passengers 319, 329 

Pillars of Hercules 41, 50 

Point St. Vincent 40 

Pompeii 290 

Portugal, Coast of 40 

Roman Sails 41 

Sea Gulls 41 

Preface 9 

Presents to Captain and Officers. . . .25, 297 

Provisioning of Ship 27, 314 

Pyramids 145 to 150 

Rameses II 156, 160 

Raphael 278, 289 

Reinhold, Address of 85 

Remedies for Seasickness 22 

Resolutions of Appreciation 300, 301 

Ride Through Samaria and Galilee 

206 to 219 

Robert College 258, 259 

Robinson, Dr. C. S 133, 158, 302 

Rome 278 

Appian Way, The 283 

Baptism in Lateran 292 

Baths of Caracalla, The 292 

Capuchins, The 292 

Castor and Pollux, Statues of . . . . 291 

Cloica Maxima, The 292 

Colosseum, The 280 to 283 

Discoveries of M. Chedanna . .2^0, 279 

Forum, The 284 

Forums of Cicero, Caesar, Augustus, 
Nero, Domitian, Traian, Vespa- 
sian and of the Boarium 289 

Inscription on Portico -f Pantheon 278 
Jupiter and Juno, Temples of .... 291 
Musical Doors of Lateran Baptistry 292 

Pincian Gardens 293 

Rostra, The 286, 287, 288 

St. John Lateran Church 291 

St. Mary of the Rotunda 279 

St. Peters Church 289 

Santa Scala 291 



PAGE 

Tarpeon Rock, 1 he 291 

Temple of Venus, The 289 

Tombs of Raphael and Victor Em- 
manuel II 279 

Vatican, The 289 

Rome of To-day and Yesterday, by 

John Denny 280 

Rosetta Stone 131 

Route Map 316 

Rudolph, S. W 301 

St. Sophia, Mosque of 249 

Sailing Chart 317 

Sakkara 145 

Samaria 206 

Sandy Hook 17 

Screw, Size of 24 

Sea Forms Neither Strange nor Curious 78 

Sea of Galilee 218 

Seat Card 19 

Second Day at Sea 20 

Seltzer, Address of 79 

Skinner, C. P 302 

Smith, A. J 70, 163 

Smith, Geo. Waldo, Address of 297 

Smyrna 229 

Spain 47 

Spencer, Rev. G. C Here and there 

Sphinx 146 

Start, The 17 

Syrian Protestant College 224 

Table Experiences, Seasickness and the 

Like 21 

Up Vesuvius on Donkey Back 118 

Value of Travel 317 

Van Millingen, Prof. Alexander 

248,249,251 

Vatican, The 289 

Verses Written on St. Valentine's Day. 42 

Voices from the Engine Room 302 

Wallace, Consul Edwin S 195 

Washington and Ideals. An Oration 

102, 105 

Watch, Presentation of 297 

Water 3" 1 - l 7% 

Wine 3 1 

Worshipful Master Kayat's Address 

199, 200 



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